Here's my try at a how to.
Thanks to CorollasBest for hosting the pics. (Images moved to scionlife.com)

This worked for me, it may not work for you. If you use my story as a how-to do so at your own risk. Consult your local laws before adding any lights to your car, as almost any mod is illegal if it can be seen outside of the car. This was done in an xB, so it has some specifics to that model. They are in dark blue.

Please reply with anything you find unclear and I'll update it.
Here's a pic of most of what's on the lists of what you need and a schematic of the end results.
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/led_and_cathode_install/suppliestb.jpg (http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/led_and_cathode_install/supplies.jpg) http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/led_and_cathode_install/cathodestb.gif (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v466/superjeer/cathodes/cathodes.gif)

Parts List
LEDs
Wire: 14 gauge or higher is fine. Picked mine up from Lowes.
Connectors: You can use what I have pictured, wire nuts or solder.
Switch: I used an illuminated switch from Radio Shack. Any 12v switch rated at 15amps or higher is fine. P/N 275-712.
Fuse holder: Radio Shack again. P/N 270-1213.
Fuse: Normal sized automotive fuse. I used 15 amp.
LEDs: Get yours online. I picked mine up from Radio Shack and am not happy with them. P/N 276-085 (x2).
Zip ties.
Note: If you get your LED's online, they might not be rated at 12volts. Which means you'll need to put a resistor on the power side right before the LED. You might also need an LED holder if the LED doesn't come with one. The Radio Shack LEDs had a 1/4 watt 680 ohm resistor built in. Consult someone with what resistor your LED might need or try these sites: http://www.bit-tech.net/article/68 http://ledsupply.com/reca.html
Keep in mind that your 12V car is pushing almost 14 volts. I use 13.5 for my calculations. Almost all sites you buy LEDs from will have the numbers needed for the calculator.

Cathodes
If you decide to do the cathodes too, you'll need the following.
I bought three kits which contained a convertor and a 12" (300mm) tube. And added three more tubes. It's good to have extras, esp considering how cheap they are relative to the shipping.
I will mark the steps for cathodes with green text

Cold cathode kit: I bought mine from Xoxide.com. P/N CLK12BL (x2).
Extra bulbs: Again, from Xoxide.com. P/N CL12BL (x2).
Cable holders. These are the things you use to hold up your outdoor Christmas lights.

Tools
Note: If you want to solder your connections you'll need an iron, flux and solder. If you like wire nuts, you'll need wire nuts.
Drill and drill bits (sizes depend on the size of your LED holders and screws.)
Wire coat hanger.
Wire cutters.
Philips head screw driver.
Pliers.
Scissors.
Tester. I like the kind pictured above. Bright light is good.
Electrical tape.
Something to measure with. I used the package that the LEDs came in to ensure symmetry. You might want something more traditional.

Remove the center console: xB's have one screw under the carpet in the rear cup holder and the front pops out, pull straight up. I have a 5-spd, so I was able to reach under the console and gently push the tabs up and in to disengage them from the console in order to remove the boot from the console. Be careful, I've broken two of these tabs in my exploits.
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/led_and_cathode_install/cubbyremovaltb.jpg (http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/led_and_cathode_install/cubbyremoval.jpg)
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/led_and_cathode_install/ouchtb.jpg (http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/led_and_cathode_install/ouch.jpg)
Remove the bottom skirt under the radio: Pull the left side straight back and the right side straight out. Gently. Again, tabs WILL break here if you're not careful and lucky.
Remove the cover for the fuse box: This is the little cubby left of the steering wheel near the bottom of the dash. To avoid damage to the cubby and yourself (see bottom picture), push straight up from the backside on the rear of the cubby. If you push it straight out it'll fly and poke an eye out, plus might break a tab.

Note: All these type terminators use a crimp connection to hold them. Strip the wire about 3/16ths of an inch from the end, put the terminator on the end and crimp it using the proper crimp setting. The wire cutters I use have color codes, just like the terminator. So if you're using 14gadge wire and blue terminators, use the blue crimp setting. (The crimpers are in the front end, right behind the cutter).

Find the tap you want to use. I used one that's powered all the time. By using the tester and playing around with the key position, you should be able to find one that turns on with the accessories, or whatever you want.
Route power wire. Run a wire from the consol, up through the dash to the area of the fuse block.
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/led_and_cathode_install/fuseblocktb.jpg (http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/led_and_cathode_install/fuseblock.jpg)

Terminate with a tap prong. I made up that word. What I did was use a horseshoe terminator and cut off one side (see pic). If you do this you need to make sure it's not going to touch the other side of the fuse holder. Otherwise you might wake up to a dead battery, or worse.
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/led_and_cathode_install/prongtabtb.jpg (http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/led_and_cathode_install/prongtab.jpg)

Don't plug it in yet. We'll get to that later. You don't want to fry a harness.

Note: In the next section you'll see I put an inline fuse on the power. It would be better to have that right at the fuse block. The closer to the source the better, as it will catch more potential shorts.

Fuse it up. Put a fuse holder inline with the power (see pic).

Find a ground. I used the front screw that holds the e-brake down. Run a length of wire and put a horseshoe or a full circle terminator on it. Loosen (or remove) the screw, put the connector in it's place and tighten down the screw. I used this ground for the switch, the LED's and the cathodes so you can see in the pics later I have lots o' splices.

Make a load lead. So far we have the power to the switch and the ground. We need a run of wire that will power the LEDs after the switch.

Prepare three wires for switch. The switch I used had male connectors on it, so I terminated the power, the lead and the ground with female connectors (see pic).
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/led_and_cathode_install/switchtb.jpg (http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/led_and_cathode_install/switch.jpg)

Time to drill. Layout where you want your LEDs. Factory puts them on the back side facing forward, so that's what I did too. I had to pull back the padding. Take care not to rip it and it will go back on. Drill the holes using the size the LED holder says to.

Insert LEDs. Slip the LEDs in the holders through the holes and put the nut on from the backside. Tighten them down so they won't rattle. Cut the carpet so it will fit around the LEDs and reapply it.
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/led_and_cathode_install/ledsintb.jpg (http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/led_and_cathode_install/ledsin.jpg)

Wire them up! You can see how I did mine in the pics. I spliced my power leads and grounds together, then attached quick connects at the end of a short run of wire. This is so I can easily remove the center console later. Put the opposite sex connectors on the power lead from the switch and one of the ground wires we made above.
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/led_and_cathode_install/ledssplicedtb.jpg (http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/led_and_cathode_install/ledsspliced.jpg) http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/led_and_cathode_install/ledintb.jpg (http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/led_and_cathode_install/ledin.jpg)

Install the switch. Locate and drill a hole in the console that will fit the switch. Insert the switch, put the nut on and tighten it down. Make sure you know which connectors are for what. Attach the power, lead, and ground.
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/led_and_cathode_install/switchintb.jpg (http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/led_and_cathode_install/switchin.jpg)

Test it. Make sure all connections are plugged in, make sure a fuse is in the fuse holder, and push the tap prong into the fuse block. Test the LEDs (you may need to turn your key on). Take a lunch break and try again if it doesn't work. If it did work, disconnect the prong and move to the next step.

Note: Skip ahead to the "button it up" section if you're not installing cathodes (wimp).

Cathodes - Front

Run more wire. You'll need power and ground to the convertor in front and power and ground to the convertor in the rear. I put my front convertor in the center piece, behind where the heating ducks are (see pic).. This was nice because I was able to attach both cathodes to one convertor without having to mess around with their wires. Splice into the lead (post switch) and the ground used for the LEDs and route them back to the front.

Attach the convertor. Cut the input wires on the convertor and attach them to the power and ground you just ran.
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/led_and_cathode_install/convertertb.jpg (http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/led_and_cathode_install/converter.jpg)

Mount the cathodes. Check out the pics to your left. This is how I mounted my front cathodes. In the close up, the clear piece of plastic represents your dash.

Measure and mock up the cathodes to figure our where you want to drill your holes. Take your time and do this right because you can see these holes and screws (this is how the factory did them too, I checked the LAVA).
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/led_and_cathode_install/cathodeinstalltb.jpg (http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/led_and_cathode_install/cathodeinstall.jpg) http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/led_and_cathode_install/installcloseuptb.jpg (http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/led_and_cathode_install/installcloseup.jpg)

The passenger side is tricky because the dash has ribbed reinforcements for her driving pleasure. This makes where you drill important because you need to be able to attach the cable holders.

Once you have located your holes, use a drill bit big enough so the screw strips easily, you want the cable holder to be your nut. This makes it easier to get the cable holder all the way tight to the backside of the dash.
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/led_and_cathode_install/wheretoscrewtb.jpg (http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/led_and_cathode_install/wheretoscrew.jpg)

So, you want the screw head on the outside and the cable holder on the inside of the dash.

Once they are in and tight, put the cathodes in place and zip tie them up, as illustrated in the pics to the left.
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/led_and_cathode_install/frontlefttb.jpg (http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/led_and_cathode_install/frontleft.jpg) http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/led_and_cathode_install/frontrighttb.jpg (http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/led_and_cathode_install/frontright.jpg)

Plug everything in and test. See testing loop in above section.

Cathodes - Rear

Note: With cathodes, the shorter the wires from the converter to the cathodes the better. The way I wired mine up only allows about 1/3 brightness. I think I'm going to rewire for a convertor per seat, and put two cathodes under each seat since I bought extra. Still, the basics of these steps remain the same. Another thing is, these things put out many, many volts and near 0 amperage. But, it's still enough to let you know what the smell of napalm in the morning is if it's live and touches your skin.

Remove the jack cover and jack. Pull straight back on the cover and compress the jack.

Cut the seat. That's right. Feel around under the front seats from the back. Near the back you should feel some holes in the steel. These holes have rings through them that help keep the fabric on the seats. I found these rings, pinched the fabric and pulled it away from them, then slit the fabric slightly.

Mount the cathodes. Use the slits you just made to run a zip tie through the ring and zip tie the cathodes up. I ran my wires with the factory wires already there, so that determined the direction of my cathodes (see pics).
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/led_and_cathode_install/rearziptiestb.jpg (http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/led_and_cathode_install/rearzipties.jpg)

Run wires. This was a pain in the rear until I got my clothes hanger. Straighten one out and put a loop at one end. Tape the loop so it won't get hung up and fish the hanger through the factory holes, as shown in the pics to the left. Once you have it through, double your wires up - since you need a power and a ground, or tape them, and pull it back through. Now you have your wires run. Make sure you leave enough play so that the wires don't bind when you move the seat back and forth. Zip tie away.
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/led_and_cathode_install/hangerintb.jpg (http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/led_and_cathode_install/hangerin.jpg) http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/led_and_cathode_install/hangerouttb.jpg (http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/led_and_cathode_install/hangerout.jpg)

Wire it up. Just like for the front cathodes you need to splice into the power lead (post switch) and the ground. Wire up the converters and the cathodes. Plug them in and have at it. I put the converter in the center console. It fit nicely next to the parking brake.

http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/led_and_cathode_install/rearlefttb.jpg (http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/led_and_cathode_install/rearleft.jpg) http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/led_and_cathode_install/rearrighttb.jpg (http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/led_and_cathode_install/rearright.jpg)

Mistake: I cut the cathode leads and spliced my wire into it so I could run one converter and run the wires back through the factory locations. This made my lights too dim.
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/led_and_cathode_install/splicecathodes1tb.jpg (http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/led_and_cathode_install/splicecathodes1.jpg) http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/led_and_cathode_install/splicecathodes2tb.jpg (http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/led_and_cathode_install/splicecathodes2.jpg)

Test. See test instructions in first section.

Button Up.
Make sure all your connections are taped off.

Double up and zip tie any loose wires.

Put every thing back together, making sure there are no wires sticking out.

Plug in the prong. Congrats on you new ticket magnet!
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/led_and_cathode_install/frontlightstb.jpg (http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/led_and_cathode_install/frontlights.jpg) http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/led_and_cathode_install/backlightstb.jpg (http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/led_and_cathode_install/backlights.jpg) http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/led_and_cathode_install/insidetb.jpg (http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/led_and_cathode_install/inside.jpg)

:shock: are you a journalist???

shweet write up

Thanks, DJ. Now updated with more pics

Updated with an attempt at a schematic drawling. I'm not an EE though, so, I'm not sure how good it really is. It def. shows the layout and the connections.

great write up there jere !!
when im ready to do some led's in my 05 i might hit ya up for some advice.

think the led's BENCHMARK sells would work ok for the cupholders ?
i'm in binghamton btw.

Sure. You're welcome to come up and I'll help put them in. Is there a Benchmark in Bing.? I've not been into ours in a while now. I'd bet they have LEDs that'll work. But, almost any will work so long as you get the right resistor.

I like your pic in the profile. Check out my WWW page, I've got a pic like that on there :)

Great job, superjeer! I moved it to the FAQ forum, as well as added it to the Tech section.

*deletes his own LED cupholder tutorial*

There are apparently markings to show where to drill the holes for the cupholders under the padding. They are used for the OEM LED cupholder install. Just FYI...

Also, I mounted my LED cupholder switch under the emergency brake, on the little panel. It is a little bit more discrete, in my opinion...

http://www.scionlife.com/tech/short_shift_xb/console-02.jpg
*stolen from the short shifter install*

unfortunately there isnt a benchmark here in bingo-town.
it's a pain to drive all the way to horseheads for stuff but , Tim(owner) isn't opening another shop (yet)

Wow, that is probably the most discriptive write up I've seen on this website.
A++ will do business with again!

just did mine front only in red.

nice job, but I still broke off the right (pss dr) tab,but it's ok , looks like anther thing I can anchor to.

I will post photos in the future.

Thanx for your help. BTW I used cathodes.

The best deal is at coolerguys.com check it out I bought 2 dual red 12 " tubes for $6 or so. They come with all kinds of velcro and nylon ties, etc.

I'ma computer tweaker turned scion tweaker.

Dino,

Look and ye shall find...

Told you I'd be on the lookout and looky what I found....

http://www.xoxide.com/cooler-master-aurora-purple.html

Only place I've found them so far....

...Jessica~

Dino,

Look and ye shall find...

Told you I'd be on the lookout and looky what I found....

http://www.xoxide.com/cooler-master-aurora-purple.html

Only place I've found them so far....

...Jessica~

Told you I'd be on the lookout and looky what I found....
http://www.xoxide.com/cooler-master-aurora-purple.html
Only place I've found them so far.

A sponsor seller in here has this color also www.randode.com

i have been slowly adding cathodes all around my car, first learned how they worked and whatnot from here. I love Scionlife! Xoxide.com is by far the easiest plae i have found, $12.99 for a pair in the color of your choice. They also have all kinds of 12v DC stuff that you can hook up like LEDs and all kinds of fun stuff.

thanks for the write up. i just order 4 cathodes from xoxide to put on the front and back! Ill try to post some pics when im done

Thanks for pointing out the broken image link. I've fixed the schematic picture link.

Thanks for pointing out the broken image link. I've fixed the schematic picture link.

ok, I can't fix it, but I've asked slGods that it be fixed :)

Note to those doing cupholders: You're going to want to aim the LED toward the back of the cupholder, not upward to prevent windshield glare.

i did the installation today and for whatever reason, i also installed a 15amp fuse and it blew. any idea why this happened? btw is a mini-blade type fuse

update: now i discovered that when i start the car with the switch OFF it blows the fuse. When i start the car with the switch ON everything is OK. I dont know whats going on?!?

Fixed everything! It all works now. Thanks for the guide! <still dont know what causes problem though>

i just got some cathodes for my box and im more of an illiterate when it comes to electricty and wires as well as what not does anyone know how to break this down in terms i can understand? more of a diagram on how u spliced the wires and how to connect everything up?

Rather than drilling in or on to anythig try useing Zip tie mounts I got mine from
https://www.zip-ty.com/productslist.aspx?CategoryID=27&selection=5
They are not expenceive at all, and will do no permanant damage to you ride. I have only seen them in either clear or black but if youy do a search you might find them in other colors.
Just food for thought
Bruce C

This is a product that might come in handy and make life alot easyier Automotive Fuse Tap Adapters found at
http://www.crowbarelectricalparts.com/Fuses_and_Fuseholders.htm
I know cuttng and splicing can be scary this makes it alot better
Bruce C.

I have the cold cathodes finally. I bought the cpu computer ones. I cant figure out how to get power to them. The cathodes come with like 2 wite wires that go into a box, followed by 4 wires. I am very confused with how to ready the wires from the point of when I take the unit out of the box, to the point where I want to run my power wires to the cold cathode.

Please help.

"I have the cold cathodes finally. I bought the cpu computer ones. I cant figure out how to get power to them. The cathodes come with like 2 wite wires that go into a box, followed by 4 wires. I am very confused with how to ready the wires from the point of when I take the unit out of the box, to the point where I want to run my power wires to the cold cathode."

DO NOT i REPEAT DO NOT cut off the box it will render them useless! there shoule be a plug on one side of the box (sometimes both sides) plug the wires in to the box. Threr really is no pos or neg wire. What I did was run a wire from the positive battery post, there sould be a connector there you will need a wire connector that looks like is has a washer on it, you wil also need a 30amp fuse splicees in to the hot wire, this is what connects to the battery for the ground any place with a metal connection will work, The is a two person job one of you will need to be inside the car and poke a ssrewdriver thru the rubber gronet that the stering wheel goes theu it is a biscuit but can be done.
Or the easy way buy the mini fuse taps Tap in to the fuse box with a fuse that goes on when the key is on. I still think puttng another 30amp fuse in to the new power wire. Gounding same as before find clean metal and hook the ground to this. If you want them to run all of the time, you'll need to find a fuse that is hot all of the time like the clock, and have a switch in the dash the hot or positive wire will go to the switch and then to the lights, Things you'll need wire conectors I likw the heat shrink kind(note if you use these you'll need a fireplace type lighter to shrink them just add flame and rotate with flame on you'll see it melt) fuse taps 100 for 13and change see link in the fourm. A wire cutter, a crimper(alot of the wire cutters have a crimping part on them it is in the front of the unit) a switch cheap at lowes it will fit the OEM place in the dash under the AC controls. Zip ties and 3/4X3/4 zip tie mounts. There are also two cut outs in the center counsole next to the E-brake, it is real easy to remove one screw in the back cup holder, the front has two preasrue mounts lift gently and it should pop right off. I used a dremel with the cutting blade, you could use a box type knife and score thru the plastic it will take a while but you'll get thru. And that is about it !

One more thing you could do is put reflective tape behind the cold cathode it wil make them brighter.

For seat mounting it is real easy remove the center console cut your hole mount the switch, find a tap in the fuse box, on the passanger side run the wire under the side palstic pull off the door sill plate it lifts right off. run the wire under it and replace run the wire unner the seat to the center cousole. I used one of the bolts that holds the seat to ground it(you will need to sand he paint off of hte bolt) I mounted the reflective tape and the zip mounting squares on the inside seat rail, Zip tie the lights on repeat on the drivers side.
Remember treat electric with respect :no: never lay :no: a live wire lay loose put some tape on the end till your ready to hook it up!
Hopes this helps
Bruce C

DO NOT i REPEAT DO NOT cut off the box it will render them useless!

:( :(

guess I'm ordering more. Thanks for the details. I'll be reading it more thoughrally very soon.

sweet write up, now i gotta do mine

Thanks! BTW the reflective comes in Red & White. The white is a good one to use if you decide to go with another color other than red. since there are so many to choose from. This will also work with LED's as well. I am going to put in strobes under the hood in red next.

i've done my research and pepole have told me dont splice the white wires from the cathodes. i went to the computer store where i bought mine(cathodes) and found extensions they are for fans but have the same connector (with a little customizing)if you do this you will know what i mean. i didnt get low light out put like most people get when installing thier lights.

you can pretty much zip tie everything just dont do it too tight.

holla back if you need anymore advice
if you need extensions
casecooler.com

I left the box that was connected to the cathodes but after the box I cut the wires and out a blade type connector to the grounded one wire ran the othe to the switch then to a fuse and then to the battery Mine are as bright as they couls be

That's cool, but you can't take and splice the wires from the box to the cathodes because the box doesn't have enough current to support more lights.

You are correct in this, and I have already said this in a post earlier. Posted: Fri Nov 04, 2005 2:29 am, Post subject: LED and Cathode DIY/Install. I would think, if it was said once this would be the end of the subject. I thought I went in to the install in depth, If I am remiss in this matter please let me know what I left out and I will correct this matter. I am not in the likeing of giving bum advice.
What was written is what i have done to the Xb, and it has worked for me with both LED's and cold cathodes.

well i finally got mine in today. took us 2 days to do it (thanks to my VP RPMxB 4 the help!). But now I have a little problem. one of the cathodes on the left side under the seat turned off and I dont know why. the fronts still light up but not the back one. I only have one cathode in the back for now becuase Im using to inverters and I need to buy the black/red plug that goes into the inverter. Does anyone know what may be the problem as to why the back one wont light up anymore? Im thinking the inverter was bad or the cathode just died. let me know.

Check the power going in and the power coming out. If there's power in and out, it's the light. If there's power in and not out it's the invertor. If there's no power in, it's your wiring :D

sorry in and out of the invertor.

how would i check the inverters? i think one may have been weak. I have 2 spare inverters, you think i should swap inverters and see if thats the prob? Also my front cathodes work fine so im thinking either its the cathode or th transformer. I dont think its the wiring but I wont know until I test them.

just swap them out and see.

I agree try the swap first, if it works great. if not then swap the cathode. Cathodes are weird one day they work and the next there dead. there is no warning when they go. To bad there not stock, they would be replaced under warrenty, you just have to do the trickle down in checking all that could be wroong. By CK'ing what could be wrong, if it does not fix the prob. then go to the next thing, then the next and so on.
Bruce C

The passenger side is tricky because the dash has ribbed reinforcements for her driving pleasure.

BWAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA! In such a serious looking DIY writeup, that line had me on the floor!
- sh00k

well i finally checked it out and it was the inverter that went out. plugged in a new one and it worked! I will post pics of my cathodes soon.

can somone post pics and instructions of what is what as far as slpicing the wires after the box and where to put them. I just cant figure it out. It makes sense on paper, then I try and do it, and I get confused.

I just need a diagram or pics of what you all did, please.

you can make the + long er and ground anywhere there is metal. tie the box anywhere that it will be able to breathe. the holes in the box aren't for looks. zip tie those to the
!connector! for the seat belt warning light. just zip right there. yeah its visible but its gonna be alright. for the dash take out the middle cover that sits on the floor . you cansit the inverter there and there will be enough wire for the two cathodes.

this should help


got fuse? lol


not enough holla back!


peace

Try this link it has pics and a darn good job describing what to do

http://www.scionlife.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=29238

you will might have to cut and paste the link, but I tried it from the preview and it worked fine with a click.

I got it in the: forum {features/tech/LED ans cathode DIY/install}
This is one of the best DIY's that I have seen. Not only is the explanation very detailed but the pic's shown are great as well!

Ya know it you look there first instead on asking questions you'll find a plethora of answers to your questions.
Bruce C

Another site I found in the tech fourm is on thes page:
http://www.scionlife.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=1428099#1428099
It also has really good info as to the lighting install.

I am in the proses of making a binder of the info provided that I have found in the tech forum. I plan to use paper sheet protectors {2.99} @ Target for a 100. This way I have the info at hand and do not have to go searching for in all the time. I know it may take allot in ink to do so. But I really think it is totally worth it. Just a thought.
Bruce C

Wow. Welcome to the internet.

all i need to know is where can i find the headlight power wire, and which wire is it? i plan on installing a bunch of LEDs and cathodes, but i plan on tapping into the headlight wire so they'll go on and off with the headlights.

Need help guys....
Currently I have two 12" cathodes in my front grill
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v517/Bluechulappa/Scion%20tC/100_1490.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v517/Bluechulappa/Scion%20tC/100_1492.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v517/Bluechulappa/Scion%20tC/100_1487.jpg

I have 4 more cathodes on the way and plan for more but I want to wire them all to one switch for shows and what not! What do I need to do?

I need fuses right? How many cathodes can be connected to each other before a fuse is needed.
Ex. 2 cathodes on each inverter(box)- how many can be connected? any help whould be greatly appreciated

two cathodes one inverter one fuse .5 amps
from the power wire you can connect two inverters


peace

Damn I am lost, I have my cathodes from oznium, but it just doesn't seem to match the guide.

Find the tap you want to use.
I used one that's powered all the time. By using the tester and playing around with the key position, you should be able to find one that turns on with the accessories, or whatever you want.
Route power wire. Run a wire from the consol, up through the dash to the area of the fuse block.

Yea... how exactly do you use a fuse that does turn on with the accessories, if its that fuse that controls the accessories that you still need powered? Basically.. I wanna put some LED's in the air vents and I want them to come on with all the other interior lights that come on with the headlights/tail lights/etc... but even if i find the fuse that turns on for the interior lights... how am i supposed to tap into it if it still needs to be there for the other lights to come on? :question:

If you are wanting to tap into an existing circuit ( i.e. A/C control lighting ) to power your LED's, one method would be using similar to this:

http://www.westlake-electronic.com/cgi-bin/store.php?search=yes&item_no=3M-12312&category=CON&SUBCAT=3M-&detail=yes&rd=1

This type connector crimps over the factory wire without cutting it in half then leaves a female receptacle to plug one of these into:

http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/item/4125/196/1_4"#34;_FULLY_INSULATED_MALE,_RED_.html

This all forms a "T" tap into the existing wire you can disconnect if needed. Of course you could always solder the new wire to the existing wire and cover with shrink tube for a really good/low maintenance connection as well.

Just remeber, if you are using LED's make sure they are resistored LED's designed to directly hook up to 12V DC or you will have to add your own resistors to them. plain old LED's don't last very long with 12V applied directly across them :) A search for LED's on these boards should get you plenty of technical information on LED hook up.

hey thanks for letting me know about that.
i got impatient and just reasoned with myself that having complete control with an always powered switch was a good idea so i went ahead and did it. finished just before i came and read this, but i may change it later. i was just looking for the quickest way to do what i wanted.. ive had my box for 3 months and havent modded a thing :tap: ..

so i ended up just making a pseudo-mini blade fuse tap and running that to the "Lowes switch" that everyone around here loves and went with that. only have 2 blue led's in the 2 center vents for now... but eventually i'm gonna get 2 more amber ones for the outer air vents, replace the volume and seek (not mode) amber led's in the steering wheel with blue ones, and then another 4-8 blues for my speaker grills on the doors..
(anyone know the easiest way to get wires from the door to the dash? just punch through the little rubber thing in between the door and the other side?)

now lets say i use one of those t tap things...

could i wire it to the 12v cig lighter? would the t-tap just go into both the pos and neg of the cig lighter?

could i then attach a switch to power the cathodes on and off without breaking the circuit? or does this even make sense to any of you?

all i wanna do is stay away from soldering, when i get home i'll draw a diagram of what i mean if needed

Yep, you could do that. However you may want to check the cig lighter circuit with a DC voltmeter (or just push it in) , it may only be powered in the "ACC" and "ON" positions of the ignition switch...It all depends on how/when you want to power the cathodes.

how much are the t-tap things? no soldering right? need to tap both into both a power and ground correct? how would i identify which is power and which ground? would i need a clamp voltmeter or somethin???

Well in most cases i think red would be positive.. but u dont have to have a voltimeter... u can just attach a t-tap to each wire and then touch the leads of the wires to one to see which way works...

oh yeah, i guess that would work too, well lets see if i have the intuition to rip the dash of the yaris apart to be able to do this to the new car!

This T connector from 3M is actually one of the components included w/ randodes kit.

great guide. used it and tweaked it to fit my scion purchased kit. couldve went cheaper and made the parts myself, but oh well... live and learn

You should gone all with LED....

So it'd cost more and be dimmer? I think I see your reasoning :roll: ;)

So it'd cost more and be dimmer? I think I see your reasoning :roll: ;)
It won't not dimmer, if you get the right one or design it right...
Price isn't that much more expensive...
Also in long run.. LED would be cheaper....

It won't not dimmer.

I stand corrected.

I'm just jerking your chain.. IMO, cathodes are the best bang for the buck, but LEDs are just as 2002, too.

It won't be dimmer.

I stand corrected.

I'm just jerking your chain.. IMO, cathodes are the best bang for the buck, but LEDs are just as 2002, too.
Cathods just don't have the right color I want... kind of look faded... just like neon....
LED might cost "little~~~" more, but colors, power usage, reliability and longevity, LED is better...

hey do u need to buy a fuse for the underdas cathodes???....i bought a set wit a computer switch from oznioum.com....it said no hardwiring nessesary wit the computer switch but i wouldnt wanna blow out a fuse or start a fire in my car....please advice me.....

anyhting electrical in the car should be fused :)

for just a set of underdash cathodes, the smallest fuse that i've seen, a 3 amp, is perfect.

just to give you an idea, ALL of my interior lighting + my engine bay lighting is run off of a single 3 amp fuse :)

ok how and where do u place the fuse...im completely clueless of how to wire these things and fuse them.......i wanna learn though

i dont know too much about electronics but how can i tap into the fusebox?

i dont know too much about electronics but how can i tap into the fusebox?

I just did this mod today, well the cathode part at least. I put two cathodes under the interior dash and two more in the top grille out front. Everything looks great. I followed this DIY for the most part except I went to my local automotive store (pep boys) and bought an aux wiring kit for $4.99 and it had everything i needed to wire everything up! It had a lighted switch, power, ground, and load wires with inline fuse. It worked great and was really easy to work with. Thanks for the DIY!!

Can you post some pics for us to see how it all turned out

I would but all i have is a crap camera phone...

Man that sucks if only...

I just want to put out a general warning.

Make sure you take every precaution and be as anal with the details as possible when doing this. I have had my LED's and cathodes in my car for 8-9 months --everything fine-- and yesterday i smelled a faint burning smell in my car and my power door locks didn't work anymore. I thought it was just a fuse or something.
Today, i go out to fix it.. turn my LED's on for some more light (garage) and the opening to the fuse box goes up in smoke. Somewhere in the wiring I must've left an open contact or something and it shorted. Even with the inline fuse i put in, it kept shorting.

I needed to put in a smaller amp fuse but foremost, i should have been a lot more careful in making sure that I protected every wire lead when installing (something I only thought about so much during the beginning stages of my install of the lights. This really sucks because I have LED's everywhere and I love the way they look while I'm driving.

Until someone can tell me what will guarantee that I can't have this problem again, I don't think I will be putting them back in. I feel so dumb because I'm good with this kind of stuff, but now I lost all self-confidence in it...
:doh:

Use heat shrink tubing over the connectors... I also use that flexy finger-trap wire loom stuff over all of the wires which I secure on either end with more heat shrink tubing.

wow... this was REALLY useful... thanks for including part numbers and sizes of stuff....

Nice write up- looks great- clean install!

hey does anyone have pics as to where they hid the transformers? mine are just laying under the rear seat and just havent figured out where to hide them. i wanted to get an idea as to how to hide them.

Red cold cathodes in foot wells. Had some in engine bay but power washer look of weatherproofing, so ordering some waterproof leds strips from www.oznium.com The red light to the left of the steering wheel is a lighted rocker switch that i use to turn the lights on or off.

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii297/leggsbro/P2080147.jpg

anyone have pics of how they hid the transformers under the rear seats of the xB? I just replaced my yellow cathodes for green ones tonight and still cant figure out how to hide all the wiring and transformers...

Easiest Cathode setup in the world is the one sold by Randode. I did this setup in about 30 minutes. It is neat, it is clean and you don't have to worry about wiring anything. It is all plug and play! I don't understand why folks fight this stuff when you don't have too in order to save a couple of bucks.

Hey so browsing through the site for the last 2hrs, trying to find this thread about changing the backlights in the dash, i just bought a 2011 xB on tuesday and im trying to fix it up so if any help that would be awesome!

Hey so browsing through the site for the last 2hrs, trying to find this thread about changing the backlights in the dash, i just bought a 2011 xB on tuesday and im trying to fix it up so if any help that would be awesome!
It requires surface mount soldering..
There is small LED inside of the gauge cluster circuit board that you need to swap them out..

Also you need new gauge face that allow different color LED to light up properly.
stock gauge face has orange pigment that prevents other colors to pass through..

I have the custom gauge face for 2011

http://i629.photobucket.com/albums/uu11/LEDmod/Custom%20Gauge%20Face/Scion%20xB2/IMG_8782.jpg

http://i629.photobucket.com/albums/uu11/LEDmod/Custom%20Gauge%20Face/Scion%20xB2/ScionxB3-Style01.jpg