Yeah that's right...


http://www.sprintspring.com/c-25-scion.aspx


:yawn:

Pics of them on a xB2?

Oh, and are they progressive or linear and what are the rates? :)

All the info that I have is there. I went to a local "rice" shop and asked about springs. The guy said they never had a problem with the brand sagging much. *shrugs*

I'm still (personally) waiting for the Hotchkis TVS kit. Just me.

Hell, give Sprint a call and see what they say. It couldn't hurt.

I may follow up, though I'm really waiting for Tein S.Techs.
Hotchkis TVS looked good on paper, but I can't figure out for the life of me why they would do a larger front sway bar.

i got my sprints today ill put them on tonight ill post pics.... :bow:

Can you provide any detailed info please?

They are linear, I called them.

I had emailed them but it bounced back. Not very comforting.

What are the spring rates?

He said he didn't know! :doh:

He said he didn't know! :doh:

Seriously!? :doh:

Dr. Evil: Riiiight, so I'm still waiting for Tein S.Techs...

He said he didn't know! :doh:

Seriously!? :doh:

Dr. Evil: Riiiight, so I'm still waiting for Tein S.Techs...
That's a smart move, I have heard stories. :lalala:

He said he didn't know! :doh:

Seriously!? :doh:

Dr. Evil: Riiiight, so I'm still waiting for Tein S.Techs...

I too am waiting for the S-techs......TRD not low enough, and Randodes.....well, I would just rather buy something for the car that was made for the car.

HURRY THE HELL UP TEIN!!! I dont want to even buy wheels until I lower it first!

I may follow up, though I'm really waiting for Tein S.Techs.
Hotchkis TVS looked good on paper, but I can't figure out for the life of me why they would do a larger front sway bar.

Most sway bars are larger up front...

To "balance" a FWD vehicle you do a larger rear swaybar. By doing a larger front swaybar on a FWD you increase the vehicles tendency to "push" its' front wheels when going too hot into a corner. Why do that??
I just came from a VW with quite a bit of suspension bits to make it work just right, recipe was always larger RSB, neutralizes the handling. Take a look over at vwvortex and you'll see companies offering larger RSB such as Neuspeed and Autotech, it's for a reason.

To "balance" a FWD vehicle you do a larger rear swaybar. By doing a larger front swaybar on a FWD you increase the vehicles tendency to "push" its' front wheels when going too hot into a corner. Why do that??
I just came from a VW with quite a bit of suspension bits to make it work just right, recipe was always larger RSB, neutralizes the handling. Take a look over at vwvortex and you'll see companies offering larger RSB such as Neuspeed and Autotech, it's for a reason.

Oh. Looks like I was wrong. I checked on hotchkis' stuff and it kind of fluctuates. On Matrix's they're 2mm smaller in the rear. On the older xB's they're much larger in the front. On some other FWD vehicles they're larger in the rear. Weird.

Only suspension I've ever messed with is hydraulics and air! There goes my credibility!

I'm no engineer (yet) but maybe due to the size?

And I know NADA on hydraulics and air! :-P
I've done some autocross and road racing, SOLO I, my cousin had his own shop for decades and he specialized on Porsche's. I just got rid of my VW 1.8t that was a sleeper on the outside except for lightweight rims and obviously lowered stance.
From all my research the companies do it on production cars like that because people are used to it and when your front wheels start to "push" on a FWD car most all folks back off real quick!
I was able to drift my Jetta, for example, only after I installed the larger RSB. Stock I couldn't get that thing sideways unless I did some absolutely nutty maneuver and just broke the traction of the tires moreso than a controlled slide from actually driving the thing that way. After the larger RSB it balanced the car making it almost feel like an AWD and I could do controlled slides and hang onto onramps and offramps and just stick. No ebrake here! lol The tail of the car would swing around now, instead of my front end just pushing. I'm not sure of all the dynamics, statics or other engineering forces at work, I just know it did and I was grateful. :)

http://www.autotech.com/prod_susp_swybars.htm

How Swaybars Work

The suspension design of front wheel drive Volkswagens causes the car to lift its inside rear wheel and roll heavily to one side when cornering hard. Although this cannot be completely eliminated in a practical manner, the method toward a solution to this problem is to increase the roll stiffness of the chassis by installing performance swaybars. A swaybar, really in effect an anti-swaybar or anti-roll bar, minimizes body lean by stiffening the car's chassis against the longitudinal force known as body roll.

Volkswagen addresses this problem by installing swaybars on all upgraded versions of their vehicles. Starting in 1983, all GTI's, GLI's, 16V's, and Special Edition cars came from the factory with original equipment (O.E.) swaybars already installed. Later, nearly all U.S. model VW's have come so equipped. Autotech takes this concept one step further. We provide swaybar upgrades for those vehicles not originally equipped with them. We also provide larger diameter swaybars for those cars already fitted by VW.

The function of a good swaybar system is to create a careful balance between precise handling and comfort while maintaining stability and control. The swaybars manufactured by Autotech offer several advantages. The body lean is significantly reduced, minimizing camber changes. The plowing (excessive understeer) associated with hard cornering in a front wheel drive car is gone. A ratio of front-to-rear roll stiffness is selected to make the whole chassis work together. That's a new feeling for the average water-cooled VW owner.

The design of our rear anti-roll bar minimizes rear toe change, which increases stability and enhances drivability by utilizing a mounting system unique to Autotech. The front bar is designed much like the factory's. Those for early vehicles have a lower droop in the middle to allow additional clearance for performance exhaust systems.

All of Autotech's swaybars include high quality polyurethane bushings that aid in quick and precise response. The bars are precision bent from high-grade spring steel on computerized bending machines for long-lived stability and a perfect fit every time. The swaybars are finished in an electrostatic powdercoat for durability and good looks.

Autotech's front swaybar design incorporates all polyurethane bushings and special exhaust clearance as mentioned earlier. There is no struggling with bushings and bar alignment for proper fitment. No longer do you fight yourself and your car in the driveway. Our kits come complete with installation instructions and require only basic hand tools for a smooth and easy job.

Trick Stuff
The trick stuff is found at the rear of the car. Autotech's rear swaybar design utilizes sliding ends to allow it to work without fighting the rear torsion beam in spite of the differences in their pivot points.

As the rear torsion beam is twisted, as it would be in a turn, it pivots at a given centerline. Because it is impossible to mount the swaybar on the same centerline, all swaybars must have a different centerline than the rear torsion beam. (This includes O.E. factory installed swaybars as well.) When the body is level, it makes no difference that the ends of the swaybar are bolted fast to the ends of the torsion beam, as seen in other manufacturers designs. When the torsion beam and the swaybar are twisted, however, the difference in pivot points causes the swaybar to push or pull (depending on whether the wheel deflection is up or down) the end of the torsion beam out of alignment.

Autotech found that by eliminating the rigid mount at the rear swaybar ends, we could eliminate undesirable geometry changes caused by swaybar binding. This not only sounds good in theory, it works in practice. This special design makes Autotech rear swaybars, and of course the factory rear swaybars, unique. If your present rear swaybar does not function like this, it's not providing you with the proper suspension geometry so crucially important to sport and performance driving. Consider changing to the State-of-the-Art. Change to Autotech.

I'm a huge fan of sleepers. I always wanted to build a '57 bug sleeper. But good luck finding an oval.

I know what sway bars do and what not, but it doesn't explain why it needs to be larger in the rear. It does to an extent, but the above states, "The suspension design of front wheel drive Volkswagens..." I know the Scions use the same Mac-style strut, which I'm not 100% if it's a mac strut or not, but it is a strut none the less.

I'm not sure. Maybe I should just scoop up the Hotchkis springs and wait to see what other people are doing for swaybars.


Too much info!!!

I hear ya bud, sometimes it is too much info to digest indeed. Good luck with your selections and enjoy them in good health. :)
Post pics!

i got my sprints today ill put them on tonight ill post pics.... :bow:

waiting patiently for the pics. :pray: :pray:

He said he didn't know! :doh:

Seriously!? :doh:

Dr. Evil: Riiiight, so I'm still waiting for Tein S.Techs...

I too am waiting for the S-techs......TRD not low enough, and Randodes.....well, I would just rather buy something for the car that was made for the car.

HURRY THE HELL UP TEIN!!! I dont want to even buy wheels until I lower it first!

i'm with you..i'm not getting wheels til i'm lower to the asphalt.

He said he didn't know! :doh:

Seriously!? :doh:

Dr. Evil: Riiiight, so I'm still waiting for Tein S.Techs...

I too am waiting for the S-techs......TRD not low enough, and Randodes.....well, I would just rather buy something for the car that was made for the car.

HURRY THE HELL UP TEIN!!! I dont want to even buy wheels until I lower it first!

i'm with you..i'm not getting wheels til i'm lower to the asphalt.

Talked to the dood at HopUp racing. He said he is expecting Tanabe DF210's by the end of Sept.....and at 173.00 shipped aint bad

173 shipped is pretty dang good!

173 shipped is pretty dang good!

And looks pretty good too!
http://www.tanabe-usa.com/suspension/files/488_img1.jpg

thats a really good price

One question, that picture above looks good, but when you check their website it says 1.5 inch drop, that's what I have with my TRD's and that blows.

Check out this photo from their website, check out how much higher it sits, note the curb in the background at the muffler tip, notice to obvious difference??????? What does the real drop look like??? I would suspect with 1.5 inch you'll be riding like this picture, same as TRD's.............. :nope:

http://img160.imageshack.us/img160/83/tannase1.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

The first photo is with DF210 springs and the second is with NF210 springs.

Basically all the available XB2 springs fall into 2 categories.

1) 1-1.5" front, 1.5-2" rear drop

TRD, Eibach Pro, Tanabe NF210, Tein H-Tech

2) 1.5-2" front, 2-3" rear drop

Eibach Sportline, Tanabe DF210, Tein S-Tech, Randode's Goldlines

These Sprint springs are kind of in the middle at 2/2". A true 2/2 drop would keep too much of the stock rake for my taste but I'd like to see them on a car first.

Those are the NF210....check out the DF210 Springs

They are going to offer to drop heights

I see now, I wonder how those will ride, I like the TRD's for ride quality, almost ride like stock, just need more drop!!!!!!!!!!!

It looks like in the Tanabe photos, the second one (the springs with less drop) the person taking the picture is at a different angle to the vehicle.

If that make any sense...

Like the photographer is lower to the ground when he/she took the second picture.

yeah and look at the crack on the ground in the first pic and the second pic it's gone because he is way closer to the car. those two pics are of the NF springs just at different angles like servere said up above.

yeah and look at the crack on the ground in the first pic and the second pic it's gone because he is way closer to the car. those two pics are of the NF springs just at different angles like servere said up above.

Is it possible that they installed the NF210's, then took a pic, and then went and installed the DF210's and a took another pic not in the same exact spot?