2ZZ-GE injector Information
To those who have wondered about injectors, I took the initiative to search on my own for drop in injectors to satisfy forced induction fuel needs in the 1nz-fe. Long ago, I picked up a full round of 2ZZ-GE Injectors to test. As many of you may or may not know, I've been running the TSI Turbo kit, the one that has alot of problems. Well, one problem I've had is fuel. The car always fell flat and did weird things when you planted your foot to the floor... it leaned out in some spots, and went rich in others.
SO, today I got the ambition to look at the stock injectors. I started by unhooking the EFI relay and cranking the car for a bit to depressurize the system, then removing the engine cover, taking the bolts out of the fuel rail and jimmying out the stock injectors. Pulled them out one by one, the last one closest to the drivers side is tough since the hardline coming off of the fuel rail passes through part of the valve cover and can't be taken off without removing the valve cover.
When I got them out, I compared them to the 2ZZ injectors. Everything was pretty much identical, except the 1nz injectors are green and have 12 tiny spray nozzles and the 2ZZ injectors are yellow and have 4 larger spray nozzles.
I used the O-rings off of the 1nz injectors since they are only 10kmi old, the fit exactly the same as stock.
The car took a few cranks to repressurize after reinstalling, I let it run for a few seconds and had someone watch under the hood for fuel spill. It went fine. The car is now PIG rich and needs to be tuned, but rich is better than lean in the mean time
Anyone else crazy enough to take apart their cars can do this just the same.
OH, and the 2ZZ injectors flow 310cc vs around 200cc from the 1NZ injectors so you will need something to control fuel off boost (E-manage, hint hint...)
Have fun guys...
SO, today I got the ambition to look at the stock injectors. I started by unhooking the EFI relay and cranking the car for a bit to depressurize the system, then removing the engine cover, taking the bolts out of the fuel rail and jimmying out the stock injectors. Pulled them out one by one, the last one closest to the drivers side is tough since the hardline coming off of the fuel rail passes through part of the valve cover and can't be taken off without removing the valve cover.
When I got them out, I compared them to the 2ZZ injectors. Everything was pretty much identical, except the 1nz injectors are green and have 12 tiny spray nozzles and the 2ZZ injectors are yellow and have 4 larger spray nozzles.
I used the O-rings off of the 1nz injectors since they are only 10kmi old, the fit exactly the same as stock.
The car took a few cranks to repressurize after reinstalling, I let it run for a few seconds and had someone watch under the hood for fuel spill. It went fine. The car is now PIG rich and needs to be tuned, but rich is better than lean in the mean time
Anyone else crazy enough to take apart their cars can do this just the same.
OH, and the 2ZZ injectors flow 310cc vs around 200cc from the 1NZ injectors so you will need something to control fuel off boost (E-manage, hint hint...)
Have fun guys...
rich isnt necessarily better than lean.. if you go too rich all that unburnt fuel will be washing the cylinder walls. thus removing all the needed oil to keep the rings intact. ive seen motors blow from both being too lean and being too rich.. get that flow down asap.
Originally Posted by NJthunder5spd
rich isnt necessarily better than lean.. if you go too rich all that unburnt fuel will be washing the cylinder walls. thus removing all the needed oil to keep the rings intact. ive seen motors blow from both being too lean and being too rich.. get that flow down asap.
I change my oil often, especially after tuning... once you get the tuning down, you can widen the oil change interval to near stock.
i agree but in turn the best way to be, would to be tuned in between. i dont think there is a better of the 2 between rich or lean since both do harm.
rich does contaminate oil which washes everything down causing problems everywhere
lean just ruins things all together by melting rings, pistons, and ruining cylinder walls
u know as well as i do the BEST way is to be adjusted correctly.. the idea of leaving something temporarily isnt the best way to go...
tune n be merry :D
rich does contaminate oil which washes everything down causing problems everywhere
lean just ruins things all together by melting rings, pistons, and ruining cylinder walls
u know as well as i do the BEST way is to be adjusted correctly.. the idea of leaving something temporarily isnt the best way to go...
tune n be merry :D
btw what fuel pump are you using? im currently designing my own turbo kit and wondered what pump was compatible with the scion..
i heard the honda/mustang walbro 255 intank was a match.. but im not positive
i heard the honda/mustang walbro 255 intank was a match.. but im not positive
Stock fuel pump flows just fine. A larger pump won't do you any good unless your pushing well over 200hp.
FPR is intank since therese no return, I dont know about much else. Highonscion probably knows, they have the PE S/C kits, they come with fuel pumps.
FPR is intank since therese no return, I dont know about much else. Highonscion probably knows, they have the PE S/C kits, they come with fuel pumps.
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