ScionFred

iTrader: (1)

So where are you guys installing your amps? Mine fits under the passenger seat, in the tray under the rear seat and in the foam tray above the spare tire. Each location has it's drawbacks. The passenger seat has a vent that will blow hot air on the amp with the heat on, the foam tray has no air circulation because of the cargo floor cover and an amp in the rear seat tray would be visible through the windows and take up storage space.

My next question is which wire to use to switch the amp on with the stock HU. I searched and it appears to be the orange wire but someone said that it only carries current when the stock HU is in tuner mode (no good). I want the amp to turn on with the HU but if I have to I'll use an accessory power lead and possibly a switch.

My third question is where to tap into the speaker wires to feed the amp. I know the HU would be easy but if possible, I'd like to tap in between the front and rear doors for a shorter run to the amp.

One more question, I've been told that the stock front speakers don't fit in the rear doors. Others have said that the cut-out in the doors are the same size. Are they the same or not?

TIA.

Hypn0tiz3d

A lot of your questions are covered in previous threads... The remote wire should tap into the grey wire behind the head unit...that works best.

I mounted my amps under my seats as I don't ever use the floor heater - if you pull off the plastic below the shifter you will see the duct, you can take it off right there so it stops air flow to under the seats...that is if that is what you want to do.

ScionFred

iTrader: (1)

Thanks. I did spend a few hours searching but kept seeing different answers so I wanted to ask again. I guess I'll put the amp under the passenger seat and just block off that vent. That seems to be the best location available.

jimmbomb

Like your prior post reply, Fred.. I DID indeed attempt to put my stock front door speakers in my REAR speaker holes.. They were too big... go on & try.. Seems like you already did your front doors..... so go on & take your rear panels off too & drill out the speaker rivits.. Let us know what you find out...

When I 'tapped' into my stock decks speakers wires, I got it right out of the Stereo inside the dash & went straight thru to under the passanger seat where I put my amp.. & you already know that I blocked off that side of the under seat air output vent...
good luck this weekend with your install.... where did you decide to put your sub???. jh

ScionFred

iTrader: (1)

Sorry Jimmbomb, my memory sucks sometimes. I think I know what the speaker swap problem is. The front door holes are big enough for 7.5" speakers (if there were any) and the rears are probably sized for 6.5" speakers. The stock front speakers would probably fit if I cut the shroud off the back but the plastic seems fairly brittle and the shrouds are integral with the basket. I might try but even if they fit the doors I'm not sure they'll fit behind the door panel. The rear grills are smaller too. It's probably better to just buy some 6.5" replacements.

I'll probably do the amp and wiring just as you did. I wanted to tap into the rear speaker wires between the doors but only if they're already exposed somewhere. I don't want to hassle with cutting into the wire loom.

Which wire did you use for the amp turn-on? The sticky says orange, the toyota radio schematic says there are 2 power antenna wires and to use both and others say to use the gray wire. Thanks again.

Edit: After a closer look, cutting that plastic shroud off the stock fronts is definitely not worth all the trouble.

jimmbomb

I was so tempted to get the jig saw out & make the rear door holes larger.. but said forget it.. I cant even hear the rears... Even though I have my fader set at 0, the rears just dont pump up at all. BUT you need to tap into the rear speaker for your sub woofR...... I think the stock fronts look sweet, being poly & a larger magnet & all. just I dont think you'll hear any diff if you put the stock fronts in the rear..... mabey same with aftermarket rears... just dont think the rears get all that much play... seems like they just add a bit of fill to the car..... mabey if I get bored. someday, I;''ll make the rear holes larger & swap them out... I also thought of cutting down the front brackets, but like you... too much trouble........ I would rather cut the rear holes larger, then trim down the fronts... good luck... take pics & show us your work!! We want to see it!!!! jh ps. plum forgot which wore used to remote the amp... sorry... would have to putll the unit agian to see...... dammmmnnnnnnnnnn sorry about that!

ScionFred

iTrader: (1)

You're right, Jimmbomb. The best way would be to simply cut the door holes bigger. I even have everything I'd need for the job except perhaps, the time and desire. The stock front speakers are pretty decent and I hate to waste things. Maybe... possibly... I'll see how the amp/sub install goes tommorrow.

I was thinking that as long as I have to remove the HU for the remote lead anyway, I might as well tap into the rear speakers there too. I'll try to remember to take some pics. I wanted to take some measurements and pics today and did neither.

As for the pwr ant lead, I'll just test the likely candidates (orange, gray, blue) to find the right one.

BTW, I'll need to wire both rear speakers to the amp.

ScionFred

iTrader: (1)

Well, I'm only half-way done... I slept in, went to Radio Shack for some 10ga power wire that I needed and they didn't have any worth using so I had to go across town to Best Buy instead. Then I couldn't find my electrical tape and had to borrow my daughter's car to go get some. In short, I only had 2 hours of daylight and didn't finish. I need to remove the friggin strut brace to secure the power wire for the amp. I went through the passenger side firewall grommet and there is no way to secure the wire with the strut brace installed.

Anyway, I ended up using the +12V ignition wire (gray) for the amp turn-on since the pwr antenna wire only works when in tuner mode. I tapped into the L&R rear speaker wires behind the HU and solder and taped all connections. I even remembered to take a few pics with my cell phone. I'll post them when I'm done. Hopefully I won't have to work tommorow so I can finish this.

ScionFred

iTrader: (1)

Well, I finally finished this ordeal and I'm quite pleased with the results. I took some pics with my cell phone but they didn't turn out too well and I should have taken more. All the wiring is routed through factory wiring channels/shields, protected with wire loom where necessary and all connections are soldered and hot-taped with crimped terminals. It turned out to be a lot more involved and time consuming than I originally estimated due to the strut brace blocking any access to the firewall. I ended up removing the cowl/wiper assy to have even better access to the firewall for routing the power wire. Getting the sub wires from the amp to the back was also a PITA.

All in all, it sounds pretty good for a total investment of under $150 and my old amp and sub box. 200% improvement over stock. The sub driver is cheap and the amp is underpowered but they match up well with the stock HU and mid-range speakers. At least the wiring is all done so I can change the amp and/or sub very easily and a new HU would only require running RCA cables to the amp, which is easy enough.

System spec's:

Stock Pioneer HU
Stock Pioneer tweeters
Infinity 6012I 6.5" coaxials - front
Stock 5.25" full-range - rear
Kenwood KAC-716 120W rms/240W max mono-sub amp crossed at 120Hz under passenger seat
Q-Logic .66cf sealed box in back facing hatch
Pioneer TS-W251R 10" driver (90db, 120W rms, 600W peak)

jimmbomb

Way to go, Fred!!! Good job!! You like the improvement in sound, don'cha!!!??!! Nuthing like a decent sub to fill the box with good old fashioned Rock & Roll!!!... Now just dont put in any Country/Westen Music & you'll do fine!!.. Congratulations..!!! loosk good!!.. jh

ScionFred

iTrader: (1)

Thanks, jimmbomb. Even though I obviously went dirt cheap, it sounds really good to my ears. The $40 Pioneer sub sounds better than the $100 Polk I had before because of it's higher sensitivity. The system has nice balance and enough spl for me. I even like the imaging I get from the Infinity coaxials and the stock Pioneer tweeters.

I haven't listened to any C/W, RAP or Hip-Hop yet and never will! Pink Floyd, DMB, Counting Crows, etc. sound great though.

Now I need a new project. I can't stop modding this car!

jimmbomb

Fred wrote... "Now I need a new project. I can't stop modding this car!""

me too... got any suggestions???
What are we gonna do next???
hey how about we light up your power window finger wells???? put amber lights in there??? huh?? I got some extra ones around........jh

ScionFred

iTrader: (1)

At the moment I'm still fixated on C-pillar subs. I've done some measuring and the C-pillar openings are large enough to house many 6.5-8" drivers. IMO a pair of 8" subs in the C-pillars would be sweet. All we'd need is a 1" thick baffle board, painted or covered in carpet. We could mount it to the plastic panel using toggle bolts and seal it with various materials. We could even make it aperiodic by cutting a hole in the panel behind the woofer and adding damping material. The biggest problems I'm having is that the air chamber is so small (7"x9.5"x3") and I know nothing about sub design.

uberspeed

WinISD to play with the numbers? http://www.linearteam.dk/