Hey guys i seem to have me a(n) overheating problem......i've changed my thermostat, water pump, new radiator cap, and even got a Koyo radiator and my box is filling up my over flow tank and over heating like a mother. im running out of options and am not sure of what to do next.......any input on the matter would be very helpful.......but on a side note my box runs like a beast when its not overheating and misfiring (bad wiring) like i can go from 60mph to 120+mph in like 10seconds over and over again when before it took a really long time to even get to 115mph....

Anything? well ima try one more thing and that is change my belts and hope that its the problem

did u put the thermostat in upside down/backwards?

did u put the thermostat in upside down/backwards?

nope i put it in the same way i took it out......but its not my belt ether so on the my next assumption and that is that i have a blown head gasket so now ima have to pull this motor and put in my other one and build the one im pullin out

+1 to the head gasket. How's the exhaust? White smoke? Also, check the oil cap. Any condensation up top?

Also, take it to a radiator place, they'll prolly do a pressure check for free.

i dont think i know where a radiator place is......as far as smoke goes i believe i have some white smoke coming out the back, but not much; just noticable when its a lil cool out and da box is just sittin there.....but i do have residue all over the back of my car like the whole trunk area and when i rub my hand over it i have black gunk like what you would find under the hood on my hands......how much does a headgasket job run? cuzz i rather not mess with my timing.....

i think i have the same problem with my bro's srt...its either thermostat or head gasket my thermostat theory is not the case coz ive changed it already,...so its gotta be my head gasket..


x2 on the head gasket job how much..?

just one question why would it be the head gasket? is your fan working if it is then the temp shouldnt be rising up check your oil and if it contains water then you blew the gasket

yea my fan is working and i believe my head gasket would b gone from the coolent/oil that is all over the back of my trunk

well good luck

well good luck

thx

i think i have the same problem with my bro's srt...its either thermostat or head gasket my thermostat theory is not the case coz ive changed it already,...so its gotta be my head gasket..


x2 on the head gasket job how much..?


yup we all now a Toyota engineers and builds thier cars like dodge :rofl:


Someone also mentioned installing the thermostat backwards??????? which is impossible on this engine.

Seriously, your headgasket is blown, you will be handing over some flow to get it repaired. However if you are misfiring (highly doubt the wiring is bad unless you messed with it) there is a pretty good possibility that you have a dead hole, which means a cylinder would hold little to no pressure, a compression test will reveal this. If that is the case, you would be looking into getting used motor as that would be the more economical solution.

i think i have the same problem with my bro's srt...its either thermostat or head gasket my thermostat theory is not the case coz ive changed it already,...so its gotta be my head gasket..


x2 on the head gasket job how much..?


yup we all now a Toyota engineers and builds thier cars like dodge :rofl:


Someone also mentioned installing the thermostat backwards??????? which is impossible on this engine.

Seriously, your headgasket is blown, you will be handing over some flow to get it repaired. However if you are misfiring (highly doubt the wiring is bad unless you messed with it) there is a pretty good possibility that you have a dead hole, which means a cylinder would hold little to no pressure, a compression test will reveal this. If that is the case, you would be looking into getting used motor as that would be the more economical solution.


i have another motor....i did a comp test and everything is fine there.......i have a misfiring problem because for some reason i have two torn wires where the connector is.....i fixxed the problem someone what but occation it may come back and goes away......but i havent had a misfire for a few days now since i refixed the wiring so hopefully im good there.....but yea im pretty sure ill b handing over some flow for the head gasket job unless i do it myself in turn i really dont feel like doin it myself.....rather just drop in the other motor just to make it easier on myself......

white vapor from the exhaust is pretty common on start-up. Especially on cold and/or humid days. If it goes away pretty fast it could just be water vapor from condensation in the exhaust or water produced as a byproduct of combustion of the engine.

What kind of aftermarket work is done to the engine?

white vapor from the exhaust is pretty common on start-up. Especially on cold and/or humid days. If it goes away pretty fast it could just be water vapor from condensation in the exhaust or water produced as a byproduct of combustion of the engine.

What kind of aftermarket work is done to the engine?

I/H/E then there is the pulley and the stage 4 clutch and a lead foot :P but yea i figured that too but then agian i figure that after running for a good minute or so that if there were water vapors that it would b gone and stop smoking and what not......plus its not that cold here in GA except of course when its night time....but yea its not smoking really bad.....

you can tell if its burning your antifreeze due to the sweet smell in your exhaust

i cant tell what i smell when i was smelling my exhaust haha

^^^ Dude, quit sniffin your farts! You're not driving a prius!

Before you tear down the car, do a pressure/leakdown test on the cylinders. Much easier and will tell if you have block problems.

if it aint the head, if it aint the fans, if it ain't a cylinder
problem, you sure your purging all the air out during the
radiator, cap, water pump, etc.,. even a small air pocket will
expand and blow out, if it aint that, then recheck when the
fans are coming on and off, a bad temp sensor telling the
PCM when to duty the fans may be the problem, do you have
a scanner, live data the temp sensor, compare to a laser
temp sensor readings you take at the thermostat housing, if
its way off, then the sensor may be to blame, if its cycling off
before the temp drops etc.,. pressure test the system,
check your radiator fins (i know its new, but cover bases)..
I've seen a lot of this with all kinds of cars due to air
pockets that werent completely purged.. start cold fill it up,
let it run with the cap off, heater on (fan speed low), keep
topping it off, shut the heater off, and keep topping it off until
the fans cycle twice, by then all the air should be out. Good
luck!! P.S. I have also seen thios on the box with various
body kits that cut out airflow to the radiator (like the Fab)

Happy trails, good luck with the swap.
replacing the motor in an XB is pretty easy, i have had one out and a new one back in an hour.

If you need any tips to make the swap go faster or need help feel free to ask.

Do the poor mans check if you are building up presure in the radiator leave the cap loose then check the temp.
Sounds like combustion is leaking into the coolent.
Also with the radiator full does it bubble like it is boiling looking into the neck with the cap off?


Scott?

All sound like great ideas. Could be the radiator is clogged or timming is off.

I second removing the cap and looking for bubbles, maybe sticking an emissions probe in that area for gas and changing the head gasket.

if it aint the head, if it aint the fans, if it ain't a cylinder
problem, you sure your purging all the air out during the
radiator, cap, water pump, etc.,. even a small air pocket will
expand and blow out, if it aint that, then recheck when the
fans are coming on and off, a bad temp sensor telling the
PCM when to duty the fans may be the problem, do you have
a scanner, live data the temp sensor, compare to a laser
temp sensor readings you take at the thermostat housing, if
its way off, then the sensor may be to blame, if its cycling off
before the temp drops etc.,. pressure test the system,
check your radiator fins (i know its new, but cover bases)..
I've seen a lot of this with all kinds of cars due to air
pockets that werent completely purged.. start cold fill it up,
let it run with the cap off, heater on (fan speed low), keep
topping it off, shut the heater off, and keep topping it off until
the fans cycle twice, by then all the air should be out. Good
luck!! P.S. I have also seen thios on the box with various
body kits that cut out airflow to the radiator (like the Fab)


yea i purged the system of all the air....i really do think i a fan sensor problem cuzz my fan stop turnning up recently after checking up on the coolant, topping it off and all cuzz i waited and waited and the fan didnt turn on so for the past 3 days i been driving with the heat/ac on so that the fan would turn on.....



Happy trails, good luck with the swap.
replacing the motor in an XB is pretty easy, i have had one out and a new one back in an hour.

If you need any tips to make the swap go faster or need help feel free to ask.

thx man but i think ill wait till i build the second motor b4 i swap it......it does look to b a(n) pretty easy swap and on a side note i think the motor ways less then a Honda B-Series Tranny cuzz i can carry it by myself.......


All sound like great ideas. Could be the radiator is clogged or timming is off.

I second removing the cap and looking for bubbles, maybe sticking an emissions probe in that area for gas and changing the head gasket.

nope the radiator isnt clogged cuzz i just put in a new Koyo Radiator and as for timming how would it jump if it is a timming chain?

yea i purged the system of all the air....i really do think i a fan sensor problem cuzz my fan stop turnning up recently after checking up on the coolant, topping it off and all cuzz i waited and waited and the fan didnt turn on so for the past 3 days i been driving with the heat/ac on so that the fan would turn on.....


so the fan wont come on unless the HVAC is on? sounds like a temp sensor.. usually the HVAC commands the fans seperate from the temp sensor, so if they work with the HVAC but not with the engine temp i'm still thinkin temp sensor (since the thermostat is new and should be opening)..but I havn't run into this issue yet with the box, and am not sure what all means what on these things.. I was speaking in general.. just hate to see a swap that wasn't needed over that, but if its a good excuse to put in a built motor.. then get to it!! Good Luck!!

well here are some random flix from the motor pull....i couldnt get my engine hoist back from a friends house cuzz they werent home so i had to drop da motor out da bottom which isnt to bad aside from the fear of it dropping....i think something bad happened in my tranny cuzz my pressure plate looks like it got beat up
http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f110/j202av/fd4cd5e9.jpg
http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f110/j202av/56b21f41.jpg
http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f110/j202av/9f29e326.jpg
http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f110/j202av/9680dcb7.jpg
http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f110/j202av/332cf94a.jpg
http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f110/j202av/7f815722.jpg
http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f110/j202av/05a72007.jpg

man look at that beast :P

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f110/j202av/1bf3f89a.jpg

well finished putting in the spare motor and all....turns out i had one bad injector in the spare motor so i had to get one off my old one....my only problem for right now is that my fan doesnt turn on any more cuzz i think i need a new fuse/sensor/relay one of those....but all in all i havent over heated once since i put in the spare motor even after i pushed it the box runs like new now aside from the fan and all

Update.............

well everything was running fine and strong but a day or so later my tranny breaks.....i dont have 3rd gear and something is bouncing around in the tranny.........so now my box is sitting at the shop waiting for repairs with an offer from the owner on whether or not if i want to upgrade the internals for the tranny to performance........and then he is gonna lemme make payments and what not and isnt gonna charge me for storage.......the best news i've heard all week......

so does that mean a 6spd tranny, with lsd :silly:

naw i dont think i wanna do a 6spd tranny cuzz im already lazy shifting through 5 haha but yea they said something about upgradeing the stuff inside the tranny.......we'll be having talks and what not about what i wanna do with the tranny but i know for sure that ima have lsd....

Before you jump to conclusions on the head gasket, get a vacuum gauge and see how much vacuum you're pulling at idle, if the needle is jumping all over over the place, then yep, it's the head gasket.

Before you jump to conclusions on the head gasket, get a vacuum gauge and see how much vacuum you're pulling at idle, if the needle is jumping all over over the place, then yep, it's the head gasket.

ether way its to late cuzz the motor has already been swapped out with my spare one.......but with the new motor in and all i've havent had any problems aside from my tranny just breaking........no over heating and it runs great

Heh, I guess I should have read the whole thing. Saw up to where you talked about the head gasket and figured I'd try to help out :P .Oh well, glad to see it up and running.

welpz look as like the shop doing the transmission job is tranna BS me....so in turn im just go get my box back and do the job myself and spend 385 on a tranny and throw it in.....so here comes the long drive from Atlanta to NC

Thought I'd chime in if you have future cooling issues. Killerglass makes a shorter, non-lighted version of their glass radiator tube for around $50. I have the lit version but either are great for checking for air in the coolant, coolant contamination, and you can see when the thermastat opens up as the flow through it greatly increases.

... i can go from 60mph to 120+ mph in like 10 seconds over and over again.... That is one hot box you've got there. When Car & Driver tested the xB it took them 10 seconds to do the first 0 to 60 mph, and you are nailing the next 60 mph in the same time.
http://www.caranddriver.com/comparisons/10528/2006-scion-xb.html
And the Toyota engineers with their test track can only get a top speed of 103 mph for their official specs:
http://www.taisei.com/project_details.asp?ProjectID=43
With your numbers, I wouldn't do a thing to that box.

Sorry to threadjack. Since we're talking about overheating issues which I think i'm having.

I have turbo kit, silicone hoses, nst pulley set (water/alt/crank).
Stock thermostat. Stock internals, new timing belt. Pushing 7psi. AFR is around 11.5-12 in boost (street tuned). Data logged my car, and the timing is conservative, no knocking/pining. My mileage is 60000 miles.

I recently did a coolant flush. When i'm driving coolant temps go between 110-130 degrees fahrenheit.

After cruising (not in boost), when I let the car slow down (letting off the throttle, not braking), I hear a sloowwwwww squeal. Its not a grinding noise. I'm pretty sure its not the brakes, and its not rod knock. Its a sound i've never heard before.

Is it possible its the water pump? how do I check if it is?
How do I check for air pockets in the radiator? or remove the air if there is any?
I also read somewhere, that it could be the head gasket? how do I check?

I'm really breaking my head over this.
Any help is greatllllyyy appreciated. Thanks.

it maybe the belt like your power steering belt or something from the pulley.....try changing your belts and what not.....im not sure on how easy it is to get to your power steering pump and what not cuzz in the xb its pretty much a pain and because of that for us it tends to be difficult to tighten the power steering belt properly.......

I was looking under my hood today and see the radiator cap has leaked water as there was white outline droppletts all over the intake and the hoses near the top. Ive yet to see the temp indicator turn red, but know the fan works and the heat takes 5 miles to generate in this cold weather.

Looks likes we are in the same boat.

I was looking under my hood today and see the radiator cap has leaked water as there was white outline droppletts all over the intake and the hoses near the top. Ive yet to see the temp indicator turn red, but know the fan works and the heat takes 5 miles to generate in this cold weather.

Looks likes we are in the same boat.

yall are lucky to have a heat indicator cuzz the xb sure doesnt

yall are lucky to have a heat indicator cuzz the xb sure doesntBlue = cold, red = overheating on xB. Off = normal.

when i say indicator i meant a meter with an arrow going up and down from cold to hot

Yeah, I want an arrow. Thos eidiot lights are too little too late. Damage is already done when those are on. I am looking at putting in an oil pressure and water meter.

Long time no post, I lost this thread, been too busy working two jobs to sit down with my dial up and find it.

Anyhoo, I got a scan guage 2 and been driving in various traffic. Seems stop and go like when an accident occurs and all but one lane is closed in 40 degree weather my temp hits 200 degrees and goes over. I tried turning on the heat, but it still climbed with my just idling and going on and off the clutch tailgating the guy in front of me so no one cuts. I decided to try the ac to get the cooling fan to kick on and BOOM, my temp headed down to the 190s within a few minutes.

For the most part my engine temp runs from 179-184, but in heavy traffic it will climb to 190+.

My comclusion is that my sensor for the cooling fan is bad or the relay as it seems to only come on with the ac.

i should have came on with the heater too......

,,, Seems stop and go like when an accident occurs and all but one lane is closed in 40 degree weather my temp hits 200 degrees and goes over. I tried turning on the heat, but it still climbed with my just idling ... I decided to try the ac to get the cooling fan to kick on and BOOM, my temp headed down to the 190s within a few minutes.
For the most part my engine temp runs from 179-184, but in heavy traffic it will climb to 190+.
My comclusion is that my sensor for the cooling fan is bad or the relay as it seems to only come on with the ac.
Your car is normal. The cooling fan does not come on until 204F. But the fan is interlocked with the AC above a certain temperature, so turning on the AC will turn on the fan.

Blown head gasket will pressurize the cooling system right away usually as soon as you give it some throttle under load and blow air into the coolant causing more overheating problems. The plug misfire is from coolant getting into the cylinder(s) and fouling the spark plug(s) from the leaking head gasket. There does not have to be oil in the coolant or coolant in the oil to have a head gasket leak - that would depend upon where the leak was in the heak and how much coolant gets past the rings to get into the oil.
Normal radiator fan on temp is 205 degrees according to my ScanGauge2 but running the heater on hot and NOT recirculate will bring the temp down below 160 at idle normally on a cold day. I have to run a grill block to get enough heat in my xB duriing the cold months or else the heater cools the engine too much.
A simple fix would be to retorque the head bolts.

... duriing the cold months... the heater cools the engine too much...
I have noticed that my '06 takes a long time to warm up in the winter. If running around the suburbs with the heater blasting lukewarm air, and doing lots of 15-minute errand stops, it often only gets up to 160F before it's time to stop again. But if I can do a run downtown on the Interstate, it will get to 186F and stay there in city driving with the heater blowing red hot.

my car doesn't do that it'll stay at 184 degrees with my heater on full blast untill i get hot then i turn it down to the half way point...

my car doesn't do that it'll stay at 184 degrees with my heater on full blast untill i get hot then i turn it down to the half way point...
My car stays at 184 degrees, too. Once it gets up there, it stays there as long as I am driving it, and the heater gets so hot that it has to be turned down.
But on a frigid morning, if I drive a couple of miles, park for 15 minutes, drive another couple of miles, park for another 15 minutes, etc, the car will not reach 184 degrees and the heater will not get hot enough to have to turn it down.
I would not know this without a ScanGuage, because the car does stay over 137 degrees where the blue light goes out.

Yeah, over heating issues and head gaskets go hand in hand. From my experience at a machine shop- that is what I would do next after checking or replacing the stat, coolant, flushing the system and checking the radiator.

Humm,,,,,, So the stat opens at 180, but the fan comes on at 204. Maybe I am missing something here?

My temp is all over the place like the stat is bad. It seems once I get above 181 it will stay warm. If its a cold day out, soon as I come to a stop it cools down to 160 or less. I arrived to work too early one day it was sleeting out to avoid the accidents. I just sat there pulsing the throttle ever few minutes and the heat on. Man, my temp went right down.

I blocked off the radiator in my old mercedes diesel that had a temp meter and man, it warmmed up faster and stayed warm on the coldest of days. Infact even in 70 degree weather without heat on, it kept its cool. No matter what, it would run hot in 95+ degree weather with ac on and without the radiator blocked off.

If I did not mind getting messy, I would replace my stat with a warmmer one like 185-190 and refill it with the correct antifreeze.

you don't want to run the engine hotter than the 184 - 190 degrees or else the R/F mix will go rich to help cool the engine. It really depends upon how good your engine is running - I get in the mid 40 mpg even in cold weather and today I hit 50.2mpg on a trip to Tiverton so you can imagine that I am burning about half the gas some of you hot engines are burning so I get less heat to play with. I have an opening in my lower front grill about an inch bigger then the liciense plate bottom to let air through the radiator and I manage to keep the engine over 177 degrees for most of the trip. If you have a slow heating engine keep the heater off as long as you can stand it to let the engine warm up first then run on recirculate to get the max heat out of the heater.

If the engine temp is jumping all over the place and getting too cold then you have a leaking thermostat. Normal engine temp is about 184-186 degrees with proper radiator air flow and no heater use.

Sorry darn IBM keyboard has all the keys slightly off center.

^^^yep scan gauge makes us all paranoid LOL

Thats the main reason I bought an sg2. I wanted to know what was going on as the idiot lights give too little warning. When they come on, you always screwed something up.

I know last summer when my little blue light would come on for a few minutes then go off and with my ac on my fan dipped into high speed started to get me concerned. Then this year I heard the fan pop on in stop and go traffic and see smoke from what looked like under my hood and the water level low.

When I headed to a trip to Manasses VA going 90 for 30 miles tailgating an xb, I checked under the hood after the trip and could see where water boiled from the thermo cap and got all over the intake manifold. Of course I added more water, but did not want to block the radiator til I knew what it was doing.

I normally wait til the blue light goes off to turn on the heat, however I find it heats up faster and stays warmer on outside vs inside air on my xa.

You should check your Cabin air filter in the heater for blockage since it filters outside air and not inside air if you get less cooling effect with the outside air. You might also crack a window open to let the air flow more easily when running outside air.
As for the over heating the BIG NO NO is adding water to the radiator!!! First you never add water! only the Toyota premixed coolant because any contamination in the aluminum alloy engine will cause all sorts of corrosion problems in the radiator and block. And second you don't open the radiator cap . . . add coolent to the over flow container only. Opening the cap will damage the outer seal and cause leakage between the overflow container and the radiator and allow air into the block and radiator instead of the drawing coolent from the overflow container.

SG2 is definately the way to go - just wish I had the latest updates to the software - going to have to put the SG1 in for a week and send the "Early 2006" SG2 back for updates.

i've open my radiator cap all the time, and i don't have any problems with that what so ever

Yeah, I know about the cap vs over flow tank. Not the first car I have owned with one. The leak seems to be from the capand I assumed it boiled over. I removed and installed the cap when it was cold and it seems to have a good seal and when I checked after driving one day it did not leak.

The dealer had me add bottle water to the expansion tankto bring it to the full mark. Hows that?

If it was not double distilled it was the wrong stuff - bottled water has lots of minerials in it and is bad for the block and radiator. Our bodies need minerials but not the cooling system. Usually the radiator cap allows expansion of the coolant into the overflow bottle and it should not boil over. It would boil over if the pressure cap failed or you exceeded more than 260 degrees or more depending upon how much water you added to the coolant to lower its boiling point and the pressure of the radiator cap. If your head gasket is blown then you were pressurizing the cooling system with way too much pressure (aprox. 12 psi cap) and blowing the coolant out but is should have gone into the expansion tank and then overflowed from that not the radiator cap. Make sure you have the cap screwed on all the way - there usually is a double stop - one to release pressure and all the way on to pressure seal the radiator.

Lets face it Jan, the techs at the dealer I use are k-i-n-g idiots.

Yes, it was boiling out of the rad cap. I was shocked too as to why there than the over flow bottle, but this car unless I am missing it, does not seem to have an over flow tube that goes from the rim of the cap so when it starts to blow off steam the moisture is bubbled through the over flow tank.

It shouldn't be be blowing off steam - if it is then the coolant needs to be replaced as it should not boil unless over 260 degreed F. Maybe you should take a sample into the kitchen and boil some on the stove with a cooking thermometer in it to check the boiling point. If you get a high boiling point then you definately have a head gasket problem . . . and probably are getting the cooling system presurized as soon as the engine starts up.
There should be a hose out the side of the radiator neck just below the cap to the overflow bottle and then there should be a hose down the side of the bottle towards the ground. Coolent is considered hazardous waste btw. Thermostat check is also a good idea to make sure it is opening at the correct temperature. If you have a 200+ degree thermometer you should check the radiator temp with the engine running to make sure it is getting hot and circulating the coolent when the engine gets up to 184 degrees. You can also remove the radiator cap when the engine is cold and watch for bubbles right away when you start the engine - that would also indicate that the head gasket is leaking. As the engine heats up the coolent will expand a little and run into the overflow bottle and when the engine finally gets hot it should start flowing through the radiator without boiling over.

Is 134 degrees celcius for the coolant temp normal?

Heck NO ! WAY TOO HOT You should not even see 100C the fans come on at 96C normal temp when the thermostat opens up is 83-84C

Heck NO ! WAY TOO HOT You should not even see 100C the fans come on at 96C normal temp when the thermostat opens up is 83-84C
Yea I figured as much. I'm pretty sure the head cylinder gasket is broken.

I have a replacement cometic gasket, and arp head studs. I'm gonna have to get around to doing it probably this coming weekend.

I check the oil and coolant everyday. Coolant level remains the same. The stock temperature gauge on the speedometer reads normals. Oil does burn quick though. I have to put in like a bottle of oil every like 300miles.

Hopefully its only the gasket, and not the valve seals or the piston rings.

YIKES 1 bottle in 300 miles is crazy - I have not gone through even a half a quart in 20k miles. Pulling the head will tell a lot once you get a look inside the cylinders and combustion chambers.

YIKES 1 bottle in 300 miles is crazy - I have not gone through even a half a quart in 20k miles. Pulling the head will tell a lot once you get a look inside the cylinders and combustion chambers.
I'm gonna swap out the shortblock for a built one ^^ in the near future. Until then I want to have the car running up to par.

When I swap out the head cylinder gasket, is it easy to determine whether the valve seals need replacing?

If so, are they easy to swap out?

Seals usually go when the valve stem bushing / guides wear out because the stem moves side to side damaging the seals. So you want to look for seat wear etc and maybe oil deposites on the intake and exhaust ports around the valve stem areas. Usually loosing that much oil is cause by worn rings or an oil leak - valve stems leaking that much oil would have severe wear and give you major performance issues. Seals are usually snapped onto the head where the valve stem come out of the head under the springs. That much oil burning should show up when you start the engine cold when the CAT is cold as blue smoke out the tail pipe. Probably get cleaned up a lot once the CAT gets hot but still should show some signs in the tail pipe as soot or ash.

Thanks for the info.
When I turn on the car there is no blue smoke. Only white, and it is barely noticeable.

When I get on the freeway, the white smoke is more noticeable. But what is weird, is that the coolant level doesn't go down. At least not a noticeable level.

When I look at the area around the cylinder head and the shortblock (where the gasket is), I can see what appears to be small amount of coolant.

I don't think its the turbo seals. Blah, I can't wait to get this resolved.

Oh yea I have no cats. Its 3" tubing all the way back, with 1 resonator and a muffler.

does the exhaust smoke smell sweet?

does the exhaust smoke smell sweet?
Thats a good question. I'll smell it tomorrow, and see what it smells like. I know its running a little rich, because my standalone is compensating with the extra heat, by dumping more fuel into the engine.

I'll try and see if I smell something sweet.
I do smell something sweet from within the cabin though.

if its sweet smelling, its a head gasket problem... just hope you don't have a warped cylinder head :pray:

Ahhh you have a turbo well the next question is to you see any oil on the ground where you park or anything wet with oil under the engine. The white smoke is probably unburned oil mist coming from the turbo seals along with moisture - it would turn blue if burned in the cylinders. The sweet smell in the car may be from coolent sprayed under the hood against the firewall getting in from the heater when you boiled over as well as some exhaust carbon sugars - yeah carbon from running rich tastes sweet.

if its sweet smelling, its a head gasket problem... just hope you don't have a warped cylinder head :pray:
The cylinder head can warp? :nails:

I was looking at some video on youtube of cars with broken turbo seals, broken valve seals, broken piston rings, and it doesn't look like any of those. Thank god.

It does look like the one with a broken gasket though.
I have noticed that one of the spark plugs always fouls. The one that goes into the number one cylinder.

I'm hoping its just the gasket is messed up in that area, and not the valve seal in that area.

If it is a warped head, then i'll just end up building the head cylinder first with ferrea parts, and swap the short block later.

*sigh*

Thanks for the help ^^

At least I know what i'm up against now.

welpz after a year or two later this is what happened to my clutch after aggressive driving and running touges with alot of heal toe....

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f110/j202av/591c5938.jpg
http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f110/j202av/a532bd33.jpg

my pressure plate is messed up too....it was a Stage 4 clutch kit for Competition Clutch.....i also need new shift linkage cuzz my headers burnt threw on cable and it ripped apart after trying to force the box into gear.......so in turn i ordered a new clutch kit, throw out bearing, and shift linkage.....puts me at about 400 big ones give or take....there are a couple of other springs that were also close to breaking but it just takes one right........

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f110/j202av/ab26dc12.jpg

welpz fixxed the clutch problem and shift linkage problem with a new shifter cable and a new clutch kit from Spec..........now on to new problems........im leaking tranny fluid like crazy and my car wont stay on or drive for long without some relay clicking on and off like a hundred times.......cant push my car withou bogging out and the car cuttin off....have like 12 + codes for engine misfiring and coil mafunctioning and what not.......all i know right now is that its all electrical......there is something messed up some where in my electrical system and i have to find it and fix it........ether take out the engine harness rip it apart and rewire whatever that i smessed up or just buy a new harness.......

welpz fixxed the bogging out and all the electrical stuff....went through the harness and everything just to find out that two grounds that went to the head came loose some how. you can onlee tell that it was loose from it being dark outside and you can see the sparks when moving the harness around....now all i gotta work on is that tranny leak or else ill have to go find me another tranny again....

FUDGE!!!!! i cant seem to figure out why the box all of a sudden feels like its is running like crap.....changed the oil, filter, and spark plug and it still runs like crap........i so hope its just the stock clutch slipping to the extreme cuzz then i dont have to worry about ripping apart the motor to c whats wrong.........

My car is running like crap too.

Not sure what the problem is though.

I already have a broken headgasket and a tranny that grinds in 3rd gear and won't even go into 5th.

I swapped out the spark plugs, and still hasn't fixed it.

I don't know if the tranny is causing the problem, or if it could be gasket, Injectors, Fuel Pump, Bearing.

Blah, lol.

I definitely accelerates slow as hellllll.

The car vibrates like crazy too. Anyone have any ideas?

right now from what i've been told i may need to adjust my valves cuzz there is ticking coming from under the valve cover on the pulley side......im hoping i dont have a bent valve or something cuzz i dont really wanna take the head off and get all dat work done for it.......

start with a compression test and maybe save yourself a lot of work.

yea thats what is gonna be done

well did the compression test and all and everything seems to be in order in that area so now im just thinking my vvti cam maybe messed up so i may swap in the other cam from my other motor and c how it goes but i really dont wanna play with the timing......

Does it tick when it is cold as much as when it is hot? Did you check the belts and make sure nothing is wrong there?
The VVTi timing may be pretty tricky to check and the only way I think you can tell easily is maybe with a vacuum gauge since it should be pretty weird vacuum or a strobe light into the oil filler hole if you can see both the intake and exhaust cam lobes and see them moving with respect to each other as you vary the load and rpm of the engine. As the VVTi adjusts the intake cam timing it should vary in position to the exhaust which should not change but keep in mind that the timing for the strobe light would vary if you are triggering on a spark plug - if you could trigger on TDC of the crank then you would be all set.

Another thing to check it the spark plugs if they are all even colors then it is not a intake valve leaking any oil through the stem seals.

Bore Scope the cylinder walls and check for maybe cracked rings scoring the bores.

Does it tick when it is cold as much as when it is hot? Did you check the belts and make sure nothing is wrong there?
The VVTi timing may be pretty tricky to check and the only way I think you can tell easily is maybe with a vacuum gauge since it should be pretty weird vacuum or a strobe light into the oil filler hole if you can see both the intake and exhaust cam lobes and see them moving with respect to each other as you vary the load and rpm of the engine. As the VVTi adjusts the intake cam timing it should vary in position to the exhaust which should not change but keep in mind that the timing for the strobe light would vary if you are triggering on a spark plug - if you could trigger on TDC of the crank then you would be all set.

Another thing to check it the spark plugs if they are all even colors then it is not a intake valve leaking any oil through the stem seals.

Bore Scope the cylinder walls and check for maybe cracked rings scoring the bores.

damn it what a headache.....my spark plugs are fine checked them while doing the compression check, belts are in good order hence i onlee have one belt any ways but yea its ticking as much as it does when its hot.....i really do think it is my vvti cam though........