Someone on newscionxb.com asked for the rear install instructions so I did a DIY on the rear sway bar as well...

Overall it was pretty easy. It took me about 20 minutes with taking pictures.

The sway bar does come with instructions, but I still thought this would help. It does recommend jacking up the XB, but I just laid on the floor in my garage. Anyway, on with the install.

Tools required: 13 mm and 17mm wrench. Socket set with 13mm and 17mm socket. Otherwise all hardware is included.

The first step is to reverse the bolts at the base of the rear struts.
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc215/healthynine/Suspension042.jpg

If you were to jack up the vehicle, the struts would be fully extended, but I didn't really find it to be a problem just holding them in place when I flipped the bolts. This next picture shows the bolt flipped(Note this is the driver's side, and that the bolt should be facing the middle of the XB).
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc215/healthynine/Suspension043.jpg

Install one end of the sway bar and finger tighten the nut.
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc215/healthynine/Suspension044.jpg

Repeat on the other side.
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc215/healthynine/Suspension045.jpg

Next, the instructions say to place the mounting bracket on the rear crossmember 9.5" inches from each end.
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc215/healthynine/Suspension046.jpg

Then put the rubber bushings over the sway bar.
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc215/healthynine/Suspension048.jpg

Push the sway bar with bushings as far into the crossmember as you can. You will then "clamp" it in place with the bracket. I recommend starting with the rear, as it is much easier to hold into place this way. On the driver's side, you'll need a 13mm wrench since there isn't enough room to get a socket on it.
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc215/healthynine/Suspension054.jpg

This is what it will look like when the bracket is tightened.
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc215/healthynine/Suspension055.jpg

The last thing to do is just tighten both bolts that mount the struts, and you are done.
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc215/healthynine/Suspension056.jpg

I did this with the combination of the front strut tower brace. It did stiffen the suspension considerably, but there is a bit of body roll still. My hope is that when I install the TRD springs, the majority of body roll will be gone. I hope this helps. -H9

great write up! thanks!

Nice job!

Awesome pics, I'm fairly certain I'll be able to do this based on memory now.

I'm just as hopeful that this plus the lowering springs will help the body roll. I came into this thing from a Mitsu 3000GT and the body roll is just too much for me. I can't bear going over speed bumps. Now I know how a ragdoll feels when it's tossed around. :-/

I hear you, I came from an Evo, and miss it every time I drive. So far I did the sway bar and the strut tower brace, and it does handle better. Body roll however, isn't gone. I'll be ordering TRD struts and springs soon, which I'm sure will help a little. Part of the problem is the factory wheels/tires, so I'm sure those will be going as soon as spring rolls around

The first step is to reverse the bolts at the base of the rear struts.


Did you reverse the bolts? The instructions state that the bolt heads should be towards the middle.

Thanks in advance.

I did, and I'm guessing there is some logic behind that, but I honestly can't say that it would affect anything either way

I don't think that it would make a difference either. Maybe it would rub some really WIDE wheels.

I did this with the combination of the front strut tower brace. It did stiffen the suspension considerably, but there is a bit of body roll still. My hope is that when I install the TRD springs, the majority of body roll will be gone. I hope this helps. -H9

I just did the trd springs this past weekend and it reduced that horrible body roll by alot! This is my next mod once income tax comes around. :D

I agree, I have the trd shocks and springs, and now I'm happy with the way it handles

Looking good, sway bars are usually a simple install. Great detailed photos, good job keep up the good work.

I haven't installed the front bar or rear sway yet, waiting for Tanabe to release theirs. Also, another add-on, cheap too, Tanabe will have their 2 point under brace available in 2months or so.

Only suspension i have are the Tanabe DF's.

2 pt. under brace? Is this anything like the hotchkis front sway? I'm interested, but think it might be overkill and not really help the understeering situation

2 pt. under brace? Is this anything like the hotchkis front sway? I'm interested, but think it might be overkill and not really help the understeering situation

Nah, bro. Totally different.

http://www.tanabe-usa.com/other/files/221_img2.jpg

2 pt. under brace? Is this anything like the hotchkis front sway? I'm interested, but think it might be overkill and not really help the understeering situation

Nah, bro. Totally different.

http://www.tanabe-usa.com/other/files/221_img2.jpg

Hmm first time I've seen something like that, does it really make a difference?

Like the 2 pt. Underbrace. Need some red parts there too!
Would installing the sway bar with the rear wheels off the ground not put more stress on the sway bar after the car is back on the ground? Resulting in increased stiffness?

2 pt. under brace? Is this anything like the hotchkis front sway? I'm interested, but think it might be overkill and not really help the understeering situation

Nah, bro. Totally different.

http://www.tanabe-usa.com/other/files/221_img2.jpg

I wonder how effective this is.

2 pt. under brace? Is this anything like the hotchkis front sway? I'm interested, but think it might be overkill and not really help the understeering situation

Nah, bro. Totally different.

http://www.tanabe-usa.com/other/files/221_img2.jpg

I wonder how effective this is.

That's exactly what I was thinking... Cause there's a crossmember right in front of it. :eyebrow:

anyone know how difficult the front sway install is?

front sway like the hotchkis? or do you mean the front strut tower brace?

anyone know how difficult the front sway install is?

There's instructions with the Hotchkis sway bar for installation. Doesn't seem too difficult. Unbolt lower balljoint from passenger side, take the front control arm bolt out, loosen the rear control arm bolt, unbolt the mounts, and it should slide out the passenger side.

the big control arm bolt
was kind of b*** to loosen
i kept sliding around my garage floor trying to loosen it
ended up using hammer power
haha
but other than that
wasn't bad at all
got both hotchkis sways installed feels nice

the big control arm bolt
was kind of b*** to loosen
i kept sliding around my garage floor trying to loosen it
ended up using hammer power
haha
but other than that
wasn't bad at all
got both hotchkis sways installed feels nice

Don't tell me that... Cause then I'll have to install my springs and sways earlier than this weekend. And I'm sick. :(

sorry
jus warning you

Oh, I have no worries about getting everything unbolted. That's what impacts are for!!

Just when you said "both hotchkis sways installed feels nice" Makes me want to go put everything in right now!

haha yea
i got eibach prokit
and sway kit so far

feels nice
but i wana go stiffer and lower
so gunna go ksport coils
and also waiting for tanabe strut and 2point underbrace

but gotta get new rims/tires too

gessh so much s***
not enough money
haha

thats just suspension too

When installing the rear sway bar, is it necessary to jack the car up? Are there any benefits to jack it up as opposed to installing it with the car on the ground?

you have to remove the bolt that goes on the bottom of the shock. if you dont jack up the car, there will still be load on the bolt and you cannot remove the bolt.

so its not a benefit issue. jacking up the car is required bro.

Gotcha. The OP did his with the car on the floor so I though it wasn't necessary.

hmmm... my bad then..i guess you can do it without a jack. but im still sticking to it and toyota says recommends it too. your choice but apparently it can be done without a jack!

yeah, you don't need to jack up the car...you just have to hold the rear shock in place so it doesn't extend. Its not hard to hold at all

I just finished installing my TRD sway bar. Wow what a difference! The rear stiffened up quite a bit and it corners much better. One question, the TRD sway isn't adjustable is it? I read the TC one was but, I didn't see anything about the Xb2

nope adjustable sway bars look and bolt up differently

i say get the front struts too and you can get speeding tickets flying up twisting roads just like me! :P

Yeah I'm getting the strut bar next. No kidding about the speeding tickets, I was "testing" it out all afternoon and while going home this evening LOL. It literally is a new beast. I took sharp turns and it just kept asking to go faster, unlike before where it gave me that "the rear end is going to come around type feeling". The sway should have came from factory installed.

A++ from TRD on this product.

i say A- cause its not exactly lightest bar ever..

i did the install in my driveway and while under the car it slipped out of my hand and bashed me in the face. you try explaining to the girlfriend why you have a straight bruise across your face....

anyone know whats available in the sway bar area besided TRD and Hotchkis? or which is better.
I know TRD is good but I belive if I go w/TRD I'll have to keep my stock front sway bar for sure cause it meant to be like that right?

I think eibach makes a sway bar (front & rear) as well. I'm sure the Hotchkis would handle better than the TRD since it upgrades both.

After a couple of days after my install I got a noise from my right rear side. I thought my exhaust was hitting the heat shield but one of the bolts came a bit loose. So if you guys get that noise just tighten up all of your suspension. Drove me crazy. haha.

OMG I just had the same problem today stuckpig9! The bolts backed out and I had re-tighten them. I'll be planning to buy some locktite tomorrow so I don't have to worry about it again.

Yeah. The noise it made was so annoying. haha.

This was a great DIY post. One thing I forgot to do, though, since it was not mentioned here was to lube the rubber bushings with the supplied silicon grease. I noticed the tube just sitting there after I got done, and thought, "Dang!" I should have read the TRD instructions too but this DIY was so straightforward that I didn't think I needed to.

Did anyone else not lube the rubber bushings? I'm wondering if it will be fine as is or if I need to undo everything. I'm not the most mechanically inclined person, so this 20 minute job took me about 60 minutes since I had a bit of difficult lining up the RSB with the strut bolts as well as tightening the clamps.

I also installed the TRD rear lowering springs while I was there. The rear ride height and the front (with the stock springs) are now identical at 26 3/4 inches. The front springs look like a PIA, so I'm going to have a local shop do that (and the front strut bar while they have the cowl assembly apart) along with an alignment.

I'd hate to have to uninstall and then reinstall everything. I'm hoping to hear there are some of you who haven't lubed the bushings and are no worse for the wear!

sorry but you should kinda lube it.. you can do the lube really simply though. loosed the strut bolts and just remove the clamps. that would allow the bar to just swing out of its "hole" and you can remove and lube the bushings there.

the point of the lube is so that it doesnt creak and it properly links the left right struts.

Thanks. I decided to take it off to lube it. I also reversed the direction of the bolts at the shocks while I was at it since the TRD instruction explicitly say to keep the nut on the tire side and to torque the bolt only. I've read in other threads that an installation with the nut facing inward caused problems like the nut loosening.

Did you reverse the bolts? The instructions state that the bolt heads should be towards the middle.

Thanks in advance.I did, and I'm guessing there is some logic behind that, but I honestly can't say that it would affect anything either way

I just want to point out that what is described here as the first step actually should NOT be done! Although it definitely makes the install easier, the bolts should NOT be reversed. The nuts lock in the OEM position (which is why you must NOT turn them.) This groove to ridge lock is lost if you change the bolt orientation from oem, or apply torque to the nuts. Correct installation requires the bolts and nuts remain as oem. This first photo shows the correct orientation of the bolt -- DON'T reverse it!


The first step is to reverse the bolts at the base of the rear struts.
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc215/healthynine/Suspension042.jpg

The following two photos both depict the bolt in the INCORRECT orientation, the nut should be at the OUTSIDE, just as oem.

http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc215/healthynine/Suspension043.jpg
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc215/healthynine/Suspension044.jpg

After a couple of days after my install I got a noise from my right rear side. I thought my exhaust was hitting the heat shield but one of the bolts came a bit loose. So if you guys get that noise just tighten up all of your suspension. Drove me crazy. haha.
OMG I just had the same problem today stuckpig9! The bolts backed out and I had re-tighten them. I'll be planning to buy some locktite tomorrow so I don't have to worry about it again.

The above quotes are good examples of WHY the bolt orientation should NOT be changed!

Thanks. I decided to take it off to lube it. I also reversed the direction of the bolts at the shocks while I was at it since the TRD instruction explicitly say to keep the nut on the tire side and to torque the bolt only. I've read in other threads that an installation with the nut facing inward caused problems like the nut loosening.

Right on :)!

I know this sounds pathetic, but what kind of charge are dealers asking for this installation? I watched a dealer mechanic put a rear sway on my Yaris and it took 14 minutes but I got charged an hour! Of course, the Yaris has NO brackets, the bar floats.

They wanted $110 for the install of the swaybar at my local dealer.