PureAzn

I saw some offhand comments on removing the rear seat to get access to the trays/etc underneath, but no pics/nothing concrete. Basically, a friend and I both have XB2s, and we were looking at putting dual amps and a cap underneath there - gutting the rear trays if at all possible and leaving just the shell/outer appearance part. My problem is that I can't fit my JL 500/1 under the driver's seat, and any 4 channel is probably going to be just as big (my old 300/4 was the exact same size give or take I think). Has anyone removed the seat and/or put an amp rack/etc there? Pics or guidance on removing the seat would be ideal. System so far is:

Clarion Max675VDII
HD NAV add-on
Sirius add-on
PAC steering module (being installed tomorrow - I just couldn't make it work, so I'm having CC do it)
JL 500/1 sub amp
Elemental Designs underfloor sub enclosure 13KV.2(?) sub

Not sure on a 4-channel amp as I sold my 300/4 when I got my last car, and my cap is ancient so I may get a new one (it's a bolt 1.0 farad).

Looking at Polk DB2 or Momos to replace stock speakers when I get the 4-channel, component in front and 2-ways in the rear. I had components in the rear on my Matrix and it messed with me too much - and putting the tweeter down near the driver defeats the purpose of getting the components for the most part IMHO.

Thanks!

xseveredveganx

Just get in there and start pulling up on the front of the seats. No pictures really need to be taken. There's just a little clip that holds the passenger side and the driver's side. You can feel the bar that it attaches to.

I've thought about building an amp rack there, but I don't really want to cut up the tray. I suppose I could make a fiberglass mold and make a full tray out of glass... Hmmm. Now you have me thinking... I think the higher end Memphis amps would fit exceptionally well in that area.

You're right about having comps in the rear, pointless. I know a lot of people that run 0 rear fill. Speakers are only there for passengers.

Ditch the cap and upgrade your grounds. http://www.realmofexcursion.com/foru...ad.php?t=17970

http://www.realmofexcursion.com/foru...read.php?t=924

With that little wattage, I'd say just do the big 3 illustrated in the second link. As I recall, elemental designs has a video on their website showing you how to do it. It's probably one of the best things to do !

PureAzn

If you just pull up on it, you'll remove the rear cushion maybe, and most likely break your seat. To remove the rear seat safely and/or completely:

1. Fold the seats down
2. Locate and remove the 4 bolts in the lower corners of each half of the rear seats - this removes the tops of the seats. (** the larger half is tethered via seat belt so unless you want to remove the seat belt, this will not be coming out - I just put mine in the cargo area)
3. Open the 3 tabs in the plastic tray and remove the 3 bolts there
4. Remove the 4 bolts for the bar along the rear seat
5. Push/twist/slide/unhook the little stiff tether towards the middle of the seat cushion holding it to the rear bar
6. Remove the 2 rear bolts for the tray frame by *gently* lifting up the cushions to access the bolts.

At this point you have bare floor/carpet. To pull the tray off the frame, there are 5 light/small bolts you can just take off. If you wish to seperate the cusion from the tray, simply push in the tabs on the 2 clips holding the cushion to the frame.

Just finished carving out the try and putting that and the frame back in the car. There's a hump in the middle that will make an amp tray and/or placing a capacitor under the seat impossible (I have a JL 500/1 and 300/4, and a 5-farad Tsunami cap), I'll take pics once we're done/before everything is back together.

miketf1

+1! thanks for the full write-up! lots of help thanks thanks thanks!!

john08xb

Yea just PULL hard on the center of the 2 butt sections and it will pop off. TO remove the entire frame its a pain and not necessary

PureAzn

You can do that, and again - there are clips in place that may or may not crack/break if you do it that way. It's not a snap-on design like the panels in the car - it probably wouldn't be road-legal that way. ;)

As for not necessary - that depends. If you're trying to just look at your pretty trays or run a bit of wiring, and you're comfortable yanking - no, it probably isn't. But if you're trying to make use of the space beneath the seat - IE mounting your 2 amps, distribution blocks, cap, nav brain, crossovers, etc etc, then yeah...it kinda is. ;)

Before putting the seat fully back together though, I would suggest doing something to make pulling just the cushion off more simple - for tweaking and access once you're all setup. A friend suggested sturdy tape around the clips so they don't engage/lock 100% so that you can more easily just yank without worrying about breaking anything.

AndyInOC

hmmmm so it sounds like there is 2 small areas on each side with a hump in the center of the floor. I was hoping to find a way to squeeze my nine.5 under there

tw39515

any pics