Okay, so to start with everyone needs to know I am a total noob at mod work on cars. Never done any car before and/or hired someone to do simple tasks. I got my DF210 springs the other day and need advice/help.

I checked a couple shops and was quoted everthing from 200, to 300, up to 425 for installation and alignment. That is a lot to me.

Is it fairly straight forward and can a guy who has never pulled a wheel off other than to help an old lady with a flat gonna be able to figure it out? The "cutting the boot" (as seen in Tanabe's 1.5 page manual), the compressing the springs, etc seems a little over my skill level.

Understand I am not afraid to dive in and give things a try though. Any pics of how-to's would be great.

Thanks

 

http://trdsparks.com/install/PTR07-52080inst.pdf

 

Thank you.

 

It's not terribly complicated, but it can be time consuming if you haven't done it before. As long as you have a jack, jack stands, spring compressor, and the necessary tools, it can be done. Most auto parts stores (Advanced, Autozone) have spring compressors you can rent if you don't have one. The TRD instructions list all the socke/wrench sizes you need. I had to borrow a 22mm from my dad because the biggest I have is 19mm. I installed my Tanabe NF's on Monday. Wasn't too bad, but I have a lot of experience messing with cars. For someone that has little to no experience, I think it's doable. Just have to be patient and take your time.

I took some pics when I was doing mine, and I think I'm going to do a little write up. I'll probably do that tonight. The hardest part on the front (for me at least) was the big 22mm bolts. Those things are mega tight with thread lock, so it takes some muscle and a big pry bar. If you can, get a spring compressor that will do both sides of the spring at once. Mine are the kind that you put one clamp on one side and one on the other. So I have to go back and forth with a wrench to compress/uncompress the spring. Just takes more time that way. You can try doing it without a spring compressor, but I'd rather be safe than sorry. Plus I don't think I could've compressed the spring enough to put the strut back together. The rears are cake as long as you have the car jacked up high enough. You can do the rears without even taking the wheels off.

I could've done it without them, but I give props to Toyota for the TRD Spring instructions. They're the best spring installation instructions I've seen.

 

Quick question... when I have lowered cars in the past, I've always had to cut the bump stop. The TRD did not say to do this. Is this something I need to do? I'm installing my DF's next weekend.

 

I didn't do it on my NF's, but they're almost the same lowering wise as TRD's. I didn't cut the bump stops and haven't had any problems. BUT, I think with DF's it might be a good idea. I know I had to cut the bump stops on my VW with a 2" drop. I don't know how much you'd have to cut off though. Maybe ask the Tanabe person here on Scionlife.

 

Mike, you didn't cut the bump stops? I had my NF's installed by a shop that does a tremendous amount of Scion work; he's a ScionLife Gold Sponsor (Stylis/Gabe at Precision Muffler). Since the front drop is 1", he cut off the top rib (small end) of the bump stops before putting them back in. If he didn't do this, the springs could come into contact with the stops much more often and limit the travel of the new springs.

Congratulations on the NF's, and what are your impressions of their ride?

 

Yeah, I was going to post in your thread. They're great. I think with the NF's it rides like it should've frome the factory. Bumps aren't as "choppy" like you said. It handles great without sacrificing ride quality. Plus it evens out the stance big time. I'm waiting a little while before they settle all the way to post pics. That and I haven't been able to wash my car without the water freezing on the car lol. I do have to give you credit for helping me make my decision between the NF's and TRD's.

I considered cutting the bump stops, but the TRD instructions don't mention it, and the NF drop is about the same, so I didn't. Their instructions are pretty thorough, and I figured if they don't mention it, it will be fine. I haven't noticed any negative results from not cutting them. I drove my friend's slammed RSX when he didn't cut his, and it felt like it bottomed out over every bump. If I do notice a problem, I'll just take it all back apart and cut them. But so far so good. I definitely would've done it if I had DF's though.

 

Glad to hear no problems so far; and I'm really glad you like them. Since I was paying an expert to do my install, and he said they needed to be cut, I said "cut away". From what I've seen recently in the various threads, I'm really glad I went with these instead of the TRD's.

Just to help others trying to make their own decision, it would be great if you could add your impressions to my original "Finally an 08 xB on Tanabe NF210's" post. That way people can find all the NF210 input in one place. Thanks, and congrat's once again!

 

One friend previously worked at a car mod place in Cali and now owns his own tint shop here. He is hooking me up with a buddy that has his own body shop/custom car place. I will hopefully have access to a full on lift, spring compressor, and some knowledge this weekend.

 

That'll make it a LOT easier, good going.

 

It is done. Thanks everyone for the advice/tips. It was dark when we finished so no pics.

 

congrats, still no pics? its light out

 

timmer357, saw the pic in the "Upgradepalooza!" thread, looks good.

How did you end up handling the bump stop issue?

 

nice car domain pics that o8 looks sick with your interior upgrades and that drop(i think)

 

good for you. i'm installing mines tomorrow. any tips?

 

My biggest tip is to have a very good impact wrench. It took a bit of effort and magic to get that bolt off the top of the strut tower. How a person could torque it down to a specific N-M is beyond me.

I cut the bottom of the bump stop off in the first "rib". That measured to be just about 20mm and the instructions suggest 15 to 25 mm.

PrettyniceB, thanks but wait for the updated pics. Just added in dash DVD, overhead DVD, back up camera, and alarm.

Next on the list...hopefully a 5 axis kit and possibly 19s.

 

Here it is with about 20 miles on them. If springs settle, I can't wait until they do. Most notable difference is in back. I will get a better pic from lower.

PrettyniceB, check out the cardomain link tonight. It will be updated.

 

That's strange. Did you loosen it before or after you had the spring compressed? I did everything with regular hand tools. And they only have to be torqued to like 35ft.-lbs. which isn't that much(I used a torque wrench). Hardest part for me was by far the big 22mm nuts/bolts. 177ft.-lbs. is insane!

Either way, glad you got it all done. That was quick. Looks good.

 

Tried both ways and it wouldn't budge. The strut just spins. My xb had the TRD springs on it so maybe one of the techs just crammed the nut on there like I did. those 22 mm were nothing really. But again, mine had been off once and I had a two foot breaker bar. Just a good amount of my 225 lbs and those came off.