Sound deadner
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From: White Marsh, Balti Co., MD
Man oh man.
So I got a good deal on some Second Skin Damplifier Pro (READ: EXPENSIVE) but I got 25sqft for cheap $60. That much should run $100ish.
Anyways, I started on the passenger side door. I already went though about 15sqft already and still not done. I didn't close up the big holes on the inside skin, when I do that it will be finished. I only did one layer. The tap/bang test between the passenger and driver door is like day and night right now.
How much sqft did everybody else used per door?
Now I have to go and pay retail for Damplifier pro now.... :-(
So I got a good deal on some Second Skin Damplifier Pro (READ: EXPENSIVE) but I got 25sqft for cheap $60. That much should run $100ish.
Anyways, I started on the passenger side door. I already went though about 15sqft already and still not done. I didn't close up the big holes on the inside skin, when I do that it will be finished. I only did one layer. The tap/bang test between the passenger and driver door is like day and night right now.
How much sqft did everybody else used per door?
Now I have to go and pay retail for Damplifier pro now.... :-(
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From: White Marsh, Balti Co., MD
Originally Posted by sciontcnp
use peal and seal and home depot or lowes. 13 bucks was enough for me to do two doors and one more to do the trunk area. its pretty much dynamat extreme with no label and 100 times cheaper
uhhhh NO
and yes a HELL NO
i used 30 sq feet between the two doors. so 15 per door. i did what i could on the outer panel, then sealed up all the huge holes with sheet metal and self tappers. then covered it all up with a layer of deadener then added a second layer where it counts.
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That outer door skin was a PITA with the small holes and my big hands to get in there! LOL. I didn't cover all the wires like you did though. I will get some close cell barrier to go on top of it at the end too. Slowly but steadily I am getting there....
make sure to get a REAL thin foam. i tried using a camping mat from wal-mart that was only a half inch thick and i couldn't get my door panels back on.
instead i just filled all the empty cavities in the plastic door skin with polyfill. that an a little bit of edead killed all the resonance i had in the plastic. and also seemed to kill even more road noise.
i can truly say that my doors are DEAD! nice, solid, thud when i tap on them with my knuckles and they sound sooooooooo nice when i close them, they sound sooooo solid.
treating the doors is WELL worth the money. i did it back when i had my stock speakers powered by my Pioneer 7800 and it gave even them pretty damn good mid-bass. and now that i have my comps with the ___ load of power they sound amazing. tons of mid-bass.
instead i just filled all the empty cavities in the plastic door skin with polyfill. that an a little bit of edead killed all the resonance i had in the plastic. and also seemed to kill even more road noise.
i can truly say that my doors are DEAD! nice, solid, thud when i tap on them with my knuckles and they sound sooooooooo nice when i close them, they sound sooooo solid.
treating the doors is WELL worth the money. i did it back when i had my stock speakers powered by my Pioneer 7800 and it gave even them pretty damn good mid-bass. and now that i have my comps with the ___ load of power they sound amazing. tons of mid-bass.
Originally Posted by trialsindude
Originally Posted by sciontcnp
use peal and seal and home depot or lowes. 13 bucks was enough for me to do two doors and one more to do the trunk area. its pretty much dynamat extreme with no label and 100 times cheaper
uhhhh NO
and yes a HELL NO
sciontcnp, can you please provide us with more information about this material you used from homedepot? How does it compare to the regular "Oh I got $100 worth of durka durka for $60, I KEWL" material? Thanks
Originally Posted by arkenzo
Originally Posted by trialsindude
Originally Posted by sciontcnp
use peal and seal and home depot or lowes. 13 bucks was enough for me to do two doors and one more to do the trunk area. its pretty much dynamat extreme with no label and 100 times cheaper
uhhhh NO
and yes a HELL NO
sciontcnp, can you please provide us with more information about this material you used from homedepot? How does it compare to the regular "Oh I got $100 worth of durka durka for $60, I KEWL" material? Thanks
anybody who is trying the peel and seel is just being cheap and missing out on the real deal.
Originally Posted by sciontcnp
use peal and seal and home depot or lowes. 13 bucks was enough for me to do two doors and one more to do the trunk area. its pretty much dynamat extreme with no label and 100 times cheaper
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Originally Posted by arkenzo
Originally Posted by trialsindude
Originally Posted by sciontcnp
use peal and seal and home depot or lowes. 13 bucks was enough for me to do two doors and one more to do the trunk area. its pretty much dynamat extreme with no label and 100 times cheaper
uhhhh NO
and yes a HELL NO
sciontcnp, can you please provide us with more information about this material you used from homedepot? How does it compare to the regular "Oh I got $100 worth of durka durka for $60, I KEWL" material? Thanks
http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/
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Originally Posted by Tcguy85
make sure to get a REAL thin foam. i tried using a camping mat from wal-mart that was only a half inch thick and i couldn't get my door panels back on.
instead i just filled all the empty cavities in the plastic door skin with polyfill. that an a little bit of edead killed all the resonance i had in the plastic. and also seemed to kill even more road noise.
i can truly say that my doors are DEAD! nice, solid, thud when i tap on them with my knuckles and they sound sooooooooo nice when i close them, they sound sooooo solid.
treating the doors is WELL worth the money. i did it back when i had my stock speakers powered by my Pioneer 7800 and it gave even them pretty damn good mid-bass. and now that i have my comps with the butt load of power they sound amazing. tons of mid-bass.
instead i just filled all the empty cavities in the plastic door skin with polyfill. that an a little bit of edead killed all the resonance i had in the plastic. and also seemed to kill even more road noise.
i can truly say that my doors are DEAD! nice, solid, thud when i tap on them with my knuckles and they sound sooooooooo nice when i close them, they sound sooooo solid.
treating the doors is WELL worth the money. i did it back when i had my stock speakers powered by my Pioneer 7800 and it gave even them pretty damn good mid-bass. and now that i have my comps with the butt load of power they sound amazing. tons of mid-bass.
Oh yeah you obviously pulled out those foam blocks out of the door panel right!
Also what did you do with the foam block on the inside door? Did you put it back on afterwards? I did.
Yeah I probably get the Close cell noise barrier "OverKill" from Second Skin also. Its thin and does the job. Also will get the Speaker Kit from them also which is just a pad that goes behind the speaker to break up sound waves.
Originally Posted by chadfo
Originally Posted by sciontcnp
use peal and seal and home depot or lowes. 13 bucks was enough for me to do two doors and one more to do the trunk area. its pretty much dynamat extreme with no label and 100 times cheaper
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Originally Posted by chadfo
Originally Posted by sciontcnp
use peal and seal and home depot or lowes. 13 bucks was enough for me to do two doors and one more to do the trunk area. its pretty much dynamat extreme with no label and 100 times cheaper
Originally Posted by trialsindude
Originally Posted by Tcguy85
make sure to get a REAL thin foam. i tried using a camping mat from wal-mart that was only a half inch thick and i couldn't get my door panels back on.
instead i just filled all the empty cavities in the plastic door skin with polyfill. that an a little bit of edead killed all the resonance i had in the plastic. and also seemed to kill even more road noise.
i can truly say that my doors are DEAD! nice, solid, thud when i tap on them with my knuckles and they sound sooooooooo nice when i close them, they sound sooooo solid.
treating the doors is WELL worth the money. i did it back when i had my stock speakers powered by my Pioneer 7800 and it gave even them pretty damn good mid-bass. and now that i have my comps with the butt load of power they sound amazing. tons of mid-bass.
instead i just filled all the empty cavities in the plastic door skin with polyfill. that an a little bit of edead killed all the resonance i had in the plastic. and also seemed to kill even more road noise.
i can truly say that my doors are DEAD! nice, solid, thud when i tap on them with my knuckles and they sound sooooooooo nice when i close them, they sound sooooo solid.
treating the doors is WELL worth the money. i did it back when i had my stock speakers powered by my Pioneer 7800 and it gave even them pretty damn good mid-bass. and now that i have my comps with the butt load of power they sound amazing. tons of mid-bass.
Oh yeah you obviously pulled out those foam blocks out of the door panel right!
Also what did you do with the foam block on the inside door? Did you put it back on afterwards? I did.
Yeah I probably get the Close cell noise barrier "OverKill" from Second Skin also. Its thin and does the job. Also will get the Speaker Kit from them also which is just a pad that goes behind the speaker to break up sound waves.
not sure what other foam blocks you are talking about.
yea, get that ensolite closed cell foam or overkill i guess. that should work, i think it's only 1/8" thick.
woah this got a bit crazy. ill be happy to give all of you guys comparisons on the dampening products available.....including ALL of the ones mentioned here. I'm a dealer for SS and one other prominent company on SL that produces deadening. What I can tell you is that peel and seal has absolutely NO comparison to Damp Pro. Honestly, if you've never dealt with a product before....don't open your mouth about it. You have no clue what quality level it's at, and you automatically assume that everything is asphalt-based crap coming from the same factories that make Peel n Seal. Absolutely NOT.
Test it out....get a sq ft of Damp Pro...and then a sq ft of Peel n Seal. When you're done....if you still think they're the same, you're blind and dumb as a rock.
Don't bash products you've never tried before. This applies to every type of product...not just deadening. I hear guys bash speakers all the time...they've never heard them before....ever. Heard people bash engine products.....they've never used em. If you don't have a clue, just keep your mouth shut.
Test it out....get a sq ft of Damp Pro...and then a sq ft of Peel n Seal. When you're done....if you still think they're the same, you're blind and dumb as a rock.
Don't bash products you've never tried before. This applies to every type of product...not just deadening. I hear guys bash speakers all the time...they've never heard them before....ever. Heard people bash engine products.....they've never used em. If you don't have a clue, just keep your mouth shut.
ok for all the guys bashing me you are ___s, and just because its is cheap doesnt mean it doesnt work, oh and it doesnt melt at least on my car, and yeah it smells funky for about a week. And yes i guarantee my audio is cleaner than yours but its cool ill get away with using my cheap ways and DIY techniques while you overpay for the sticker or name to be on the product. so have a happy Hanukkah
Originally Posted by Tcguy85
wow buddy! calm down. trialsindude is no noob! .
Originally Posted by Tcguy85
the stuff from home depot is NOT a good idea for inside a car. i haven't tried it but from everything i have read it does not stick well, doesn't work nearly as well, and smells like butt.
anybody who is trying the peel and seel is just being cheap and missing out on the real deal.
Originally Posted by trialsindude
Originally Posted by arkenzo
Originally Posted by trialsindude
Originally Posted by sciontcnp
use peal and seal and home depot or lowes. 13 bucks was enough for me to do two doors and one more to do the trunk area. its pretty much dynamat extreme with no label and 100 times cheaper
uhhhh NO
and yes a HELL NO
sciontcnp, can you please provide us with more information about this material you used from homedepot? How does it compare to the regular "Oh I got $100 worth of durka durka for $60, I KEWL" material? Thanks
http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/
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From: White Marsh, Balti Co., MD
Originally Posted by sciontcnp
ok for all the guys bashing me you are ___s, and just because its is cheap doesnt mean it doesnt work, oh and it doesnt melt at least on my car, and yeah it smells funky for about a week. And yes i guarantee my audio is cleaner than yours but its cool ill get away with using my cheap ways and DIY techniques while you overpay for the sticker or name to be on the product. so have a happy Hanukkah
If you want me to rip on you for real...
Kenwood 800 watt amp, Jensen 6.5 front speakers, Power Acoustik Tweeters
Back to the sound deadener. You get what you pay for. Once again refer to this link:
http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/
Read up and learn.
I came in here looking to see how much (sqft) people use.
"thank you, come again" /apu simpsons
EDIT: If you want to get technical "Peal and Seal", which is meant for roofing, is meant to melt under high temp. to fill in cracks and groves. I know people use it for car audio, and it does melt, especially on vertical surfaces. It can and will melt leaving you a pool of asphalt somewhere.



