Man oh man.
So I got a good deal on some Second Skin Damplifier Pro (READ: EXPENSIVE) but I got 25sqft for cheap $60. That much should run $100ish.
Anyways, I started on the passenger side door. I already went though about 15sqft already and still not done. I didn't close up the big holes on the inside skin, when I do that it will be finished. I only did one layer. The tap/bang test between the passenger and driver door is like day and night right now.

How much sqft did everybody else used per door?


Now I have to go and pay retail for Damplifier pro now.... :-(

use peal and seal and home depot or lowes. 13 bucks was enough for me to do two doors and one more to do the trunk area. its pretty much dynamat extreme with no label and 100 times cheaper

use peal and seal and home depot or lowes. 13 bucks was enough for me to do two doors and one more to do the trunk area. its pretty much dynamat extreme with no label and 100 times cheaper


uhhhh NO

and yes a HELL NO

i used 30 sq feet between the two doors. so 15 per door. i did what i could on the outer panel, then sealed up all the huge holes with sheet metal and self tappers. then covered it all up with a layer of deadener then added a second layer where it counts.

http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n159/cavalier94sq/IMG_1860.jpg

That outer door skin was a PITA with the small holes and my big hands to get in there! LOL. I didn't cover all the wires like you did though. I will get some close cell barrier to go on top of it at the end too. Slowly but steadily I am getting there....

make sure to get a REAL thin foam. i tried using a camping mat from wal-mart that was only a half inch thick and i couldn't get my door panels back on.

instead i just filled all the empty cavities in the plastic door skin with polyfill. that an a little bit of edead killed all the resonance i had in the plastic. and also seemed to kill even more road noise.

i can truly say that my doors are DEAD! nice, solid, thud when i tap on them with my knuckles and they sound sooooooooo nice when i close them, they sound sooooo solid.

treating the doors is WELL worth the money. i did it back when i had my stock speakers powered by my Pioneer 7800 and it gave even them pretty damn good mid-bass. and now that i have my comps with the ___ load of power they sound amazing. tons of mid-bass.

use peal and seal and home depot or lowes. 13 bucks was enough for me to do two doors and one more to do the trunk area. its pretty much dynamat extreme with no label and 100 times cheaper


uhhhh NO

and yes a HELL NO Dude...Are you stupid or something? :blah: Ask questions before you make yourself look like a monkey.

sciontcnp, can you please provide us with more information about this material you used from homedepot? How does it compare to the regular "Oh I got $100 worth of durka durka for $60, I KEWL" material? Thanks

use peal and seal and home depot or lowes. 13 bucks was enough for me to do two doors and one more to do the trunk area. its pretty much dynamat extreme with no label and 100 times cheaper


uhhhh NO

and yes a HELL NO Dude...Are you stupid or something? :blah: Ask questions before you make yourself look like a monkey.

sciontcnp, can you please provide us with more information about this material you used from homedepot? How does it compare to the regular "Oh I got $100 worth of durka durka for $60, I KEWL" material? Thanks

wow buddy! calm down. trialsindude is no noob! he knows just like i do that the stuff from home depot is NOT a good idea for inside a car. i haven't tried it but from everything i have read it does not stick well, doesn't work nearly as well, and smells like ___.

anybody who is trying the peel and seel is just being cheap and missing out on the real deal.

use peal and seal and home depot or lowes. 13 bucks was enough for me to do two doors and one more to do the trunk area. its pretty much dynamat extreme with no label and 100 times cheaper

I've used it before and it does work. However since it is asphault based it will melt and run in the heat. Never put it overhead. If you never take anything apart again, it's all good. If you do, be prepared for a messy messy day.

use peal and seal and home depot or lowes. 13 bucks was enough for me to do two doors and one more to do the trunk area. its pretty much dynamat extreme with no label and 100 times cheaper


uhhhh NO

and yes a HELL NO Dude...Are you stupid or something? :blah: Ask questions before you make yourself look like a monkey.

sciontcnp, can you please provide us with more information about this material you used from homedepot? How does it compare to the regular "Oh I got $100 worth of durka durka for $60, I KEWL" material? Thanks

Here you go buddy
http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/

make sure to get a REAL thin foam. i tried using a camping mat from wal-mart that was only a half inch thick and i couldn't get my door panels back on.

instead i just filled all the empty cavities in the plastic door skin with polyfill. that an a little bit of edead killed all the resonance i had in the plastic. and also seemed to kill even more road noise.

i can truly say that my doors are DEAD! nice, solid, thud when i tap on them with my knuckles and they sound sooooooooo nice when i close them, they sound sooooo solid.

treating the doors is WELL worth the money. i did it back when i had my stock speakers powered by my Pioneer 7800 and it gave even them pretty damn good mid-bass. and now that i have my comps with the butt load of power they sound amazing. tons of mid-bass.


Oh yeah you obviously pulled out those foam blocks out of the door panel right!

Also what did you do with the foam block on the inside door? Did you put it back on afterwards? I did.
Yeah I probably get the Close cell noise barrier "OverKill" from Second Skin also. Its thin and does the job. Also will get the Speaker Kit from them also which is just a pad that goes behind the speaker to break up sound waves.

use peal and seal and home depot or lowes. 13 bucks was enough for me to do two doors and one more to do the trunk area. its pretty much dynamat extreme with no label and 100 times cheaper

I've used it before and it does work. However since it is asphault based it will melt and run in the heat. Never put it overhead. If you never take anything apart again, it's all good. If you do, be prepared for a messy messy day.

the only place i would even think about using it would be on the floor. don't use it on a vertical surface. it will melt and run off.

use peal and seal and home depot or lowes. 13 bucks was enough for me to do two doors and one more to do the trunk area. its pretty much dynamat extreme with no label and 100 times cheaper

I've used it before and it does work. However since it is asphault based it will melt and run in the heat. Never put it overhead. If you never take anything apart again, it's all good. If you do, be prepared for a messy messy day.
Yeah only thing it is good for is flat surfaces, and you have to use like 4 layers to equal to one layer of what I have or dynamat extreme. Also it is SMELLY!!

make sure to get a REAL thin foam. i tried using a camping mat from wal-mart that was only a half inch thick and i couldn't get my door panels back on.

instead i just filled all the empty cavities in the plastic door skin with polyfill. that an a little bit of edead killed all the resonance i had in the plastic. and also seemed to kill even more road noise.

i can truly say that my doors are DEAD! nice, solid, thud when i tap on them with my knuckles and they sound sooooooooo nice when i close them, they sound sooooo solid.

treating the doors is WELL worth the money. i did it back when i had my stock speakers powered by my Pioneer 7800 and it gave even them pretty damn good mid-bass. and now that i have my comps with the butt load of power they sound amazing. tons of mid-bass.


Oh yeah you obviously pulled out those foam blocks out of the door panel right!

Also what did you do with the foam block on the inside door? Did you put it back on afterwards? I did.
Yeah I probably get the Close cell noise barrier "OverKill" from Second Skin also. Its thin and does the job. Also will get the Speaker Kit from them also which is just a pad that goes behind the speaker to break up sound waves.

well the big foam blocks that were attached to the plastic door skin that went into the door i had to take off because obviously covered the hole they sorta went into. lol

not sure what other foam blocks you are talking about.

yea, get that ensolite closed cell foam or overkill i guess. that should work, i think it's only 1/8" thick.

woah this got a bit crazy. ill be happy to give all of you guys comparisons on the dampening products available.....including ALL of the ones mentioned here. I'm a dealer for SS and one other prominent company on SL that produces deadening. What I can tell you is that peel and seal has absolutely NO comparison to Damp Pro. Honestly, if you've never dealt with a product before....don't open your mouth about it. You have no clue what quality level it's at, and you automatically assume that everything is asphalt-based crap coming from the same factories that make Peel n Seal. Absolutely NOT.

Test it out....get a sq ft of Damp Pro...and then a sq ft of Peel n Seal. When you're done....if you still think they're the same, you're blind and dumb as a rock.

Don't bash products you've never tried before. This applies to every type of product...not just deadening. I hear guys bash speakers all the time...they've never heard them before....ever. Heard people bash engine products.....they've never used em. If you don't have a clue, just keep your mouth shut.

ps trials....you got a hell of a deal...nice work.

ok for all the guys bashing me you are ___s, and just because its is cheap doesnt mean it doesnt work, oh and it doesnt melt at least on my car, and yeah it smells funky for about a week. And yes i guarantee my audio is cleaner than yours but its cool ill get away with using my cheap ways and DIY techniques while you overpay for the sticker or name to be on the product. so have a happy Hanukkah

wow buddy! calm down. trialsindude is no noob! . This was not needed.



the stuff from home depot is NOT a good idea for inside a car. i haven't tried it but from everything i have read it does not stick well, doesn't work nearly as well, and smells like butt.

anybody who is trying the peel and seel is just being cheap and missing out on the real deal. But this was needed, thanks Tcguy85. :bow: Respect goes to you, who speaks in a proper manner.

use peal and seal and home depot or lowes. 13 bucks was enough for me to do two doors and one more to do the trunk area. its pretty much dynamat extreme with no label and 100 times cheaper


uhhhh NO

and yes a HELL NO Dude...Are you stupid or something? :blah: Ask questions before you make yourself look like a monkey.

sciontcnp, can you please provide us with more information about this material you used from homedepot? How does it compare to the regular "Oh I got $100 worth of durka durka for $60, I KEWL" material? Thanks

Here you go buddy
http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/ Cool, thanks man, learn something new all the time. Definitely is worth going for the good stuff.

ok for all the guys bashing me you are ___s, and just because its is cheap doesnt mean it doesnt work, oh and it doesnt melt at least on my car, and yeah it smells funky for about a week. And yes i guarantee my audio is cleaner than yours but its cool ill get away with using my cheap ways and DIY techniques while you overpay for the sticker or name to be on the product. so have a happy Hanukkah
Calm down there tiger...
If you want me to rip on you for real...
Kenwood 800 watt amp, Jensen 6.5 front speakers, Power Acoustik Tweeters
I don't see anything clean in there.....

Back to the sound deadener. You get what you pay for. Once again refer to this link:
http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/

Read up and learn.
I came in here looking to see how much (sqft) people use.

"thank you, come again" /apu simpsons



EDIT: If you want to get technical "Peal and Seal", which is meant for roofing, is meant to melt under high temp. to fill in cracks and groves. I know people use it for car audio, and it does melt, especially on vertical surfaces. It can and will melt leaving you a pool of asphalt somewhere.

well buddy hats off to you go for gold!

DO NOT USE PEEL-n-SEAL! It only looks similar to the real car audio products. It's likely in the summer, PnS will melt, and make a gooey mess in your car. The glue PnS uses isn't designed for car audio's environment.

Spend a little more, and get a product that will hold up to the car audio environment.

Here is a stupid question..........I am about to buy edead for doingmy interior.........I have half a gallon of the liquid..........but what thickness and how much do I need gto do the doors and back areas..........not worried about floor.........or firewall or roof.........just doors,hatch,back seatwalls,and door walls.........what thickness..........???????.45 or .60.........or more............?????

id do about a 60 mil thickness

to the OP

second skin is proably one of the better companies that makes sound deadner.

A little pricey but definatly worth it

i bought some mid grade stuff and you can easily tell the differance in just the feel of it