Well, I got my tax returns a week or so ago so I need to continue my audio project. Next up is deadening. (Yes it probably should have been done earlier but o well)

I have seen many examples on the website and have seen the gut/edead thread but I still have a few questions. How do you cover the massive holes in the doors to seal them? Is sheet metal required or can you just cover it with a huge piece of deadening? Also, what would be the most beneficial place to deaden after the doors?

use a thin piece of sheet metal so you can stick the eDead to something. After the doors, probally the bottom rear hatch?

Check this out. Pic number 5 shows what I did. I know the pic is horrible but if you scroll down some more you will see what I used.

http://www.scionlife.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=139293&highlight=deadening

take a piece of very small gauge aluminum and take some self tapping and put them in the holes, will make a huge difference.

may i ask why you decided to cover all the holes in the door?

If you are trying to eliminate rattle and vibration, you do NOT need to do that.

If you are trying to improve the tone of sound quality in the car, you do NOT need to do that.

If you are trying to seal the door up to give your speaker a box to be in...., that won't work either because the door is so big, it would be like the speaker being simulated in an IB...

So, i'm curious as to why the whole door is sealed shut?

All actuators for power windows and door locks are back there. Once taken off, that's a lot of money wasted.

decrease road noise :)

http://www.secondskinaudio.com/noise-barrier/Luxury-Liner-Pro.php?category=56

That's what that's for without blocking your internal parts in your door.

Apply it over the sound deadening to reflect sound waves from getting inside of the car.

You may need to stuff some of it at the bottom of the door but before taking my advice on doing that, talk to the company to make sure that stuff is waterproof.

If it isn't i'm sure there is something he can suggest that he has that will work.

He didnt suggest i cover any holes in my tc as it isn't necessary.

I'm just tryin to keep the car's capability of reverting back to stock as simple as possible in case a sale were to take place in the future.

pssh if you go to sell it they wont open up the door panels at all lol.

haha, no but someone will if they gotta get in there for something in the future. Not that it will affect the sale but.. well ok bad example.

Good example-
still got the car and something in there failed... now u gotta take all that stuff off.

I'm thinkin you should sound deaden it, road noise barrier on it, any place that may still rattle\vibrate(before applying road noise barrier), run sludge over it, then reapply the factory plastic liner back over everything.

If your car is still under warranty with that sheet metal in there, they may refuse to fix anything in there.

pssh then take it out before you take it to a dealer, imho its well worth it and its the best thing you can do to help with midbass and decrease road noise and i'm not the only one that thinks that.

http://www.raamaudio.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi?p=ht

i'm not here to bash or anything so don't look at me like that because i don't try to down anyone's product but i had been out of the car audio scene for a couple yrs before i came back about several months ago because i needed a new design.

SecondSkin was referred to me and i have read over comparison's between the 2 companies.
SS was the choice given.
I won't go into detail as to why because that's a LONG post but in a 5,000w daily driver setup coming soon... Second Skin was the choice that was made.
$700 worth of sound deadening has been purchased so far.
I'll need more but wont buy anymore until the setup is installed so i know where the rest needs to go.
3 layers of Damplifier everywhere in the car so far. That's minimum.

Well it sounds to me like your are going to be putting together quite an SPL machine so why would you not want to completely deaden the doors?

Ok so small gauge aluminum is used. Where can you get that, walmart?

Anyway I see that theres a fuss about covering the holes and not covering the holes. I guess, if somebody hasn't done so already, I will test this out once I get everything. I'll leave them uncovered at first, take it out for a drive, then covered. This will leave me with it covered obviously but I don't think anything in there will need replacing anytime soon. And if it does I'll cut a small hole so the left over I had from the last install will cover it back up. :P (Yes I know there will be aluminum to cut through)

As for raamaudio, they make you buy too much. I don't need 62.5sqft and I'm not paying for it all.

this isn't for comp, just daily.
I've been to a comp before and while the experience is awesome, where it would lead me is somewhere that i would regret!
I felt it the first time i competed, i chose not to be a constant competitor.
I felt i was going to do anything i could to get that little extra, in any class too, didn't matter what i had to tear up or out. Don't wanna do that to a somewhat new car.

I like to keep my car in a way that can be reverted back to stock. I also like this method because a lot of people do the same as well or just plain don't wanna do any hard work.
So, i like doing tests on things that can benefit others as well.

That's why i started that tC stereo thread in here.

Sure there may be MANY MANY things to do to a vehicle that can get you louder but there are also a lot of things that i or others would not like to do to retain the factory functionality of the vehicle.

There are some boundaries that i will cross only if i feel that it is not necessary to leave untouched....
For example, making multiple grounding locations or drilling through the wheel wells or underbody. Nobody would ever need to do maintenance here ever to repair anything because it's dull places.
As long as everything is properly sealed then there is no worry about rust.

I won't even change the wheels on the car due to the air pressure sensor not working.

But to keep up things, watch over that tC thread i made from time to time for updates because it is suppose to start getting warmer in the next week or so here and if it stays that way, a LOT of updates will be popping up.

As for raamaudio, they make you buy too much. I don't need 62.5sqft and I'm not paying for it all.

hehe, i bought 260 sq ft of sound deadening as a minimal install until i get my setup in to determine the final amount i need.

I got the aluminum at Home Depot. I prefer to seal the whole door... including the access holes. What is the point of completely deadening the outer door skin and then only covering half of the inner skin? I don't find the argument for not covering the access panels to be very convincing. If I absolutely needed to gain access to the inside of my doors then it would take me less then a minute to remove the sound deadener from the access holes.

As far as the raamat link goes... I just posted that so you could have a reference for covering the holes (although I do highly recommend the stuff).

As for raamaudio, they make you buy too much. I don't need 62.5sqft and I'm not paying for it all.
If you are going to take the time to sound deaden your doors, do yourself a HUGE favor and sound deaden the area behind the rear panels (where your stock rear speakers are located.) That area is horrible in the tc there is literally nothing behind those panels. And that being the case you will need more then 62.5 feet.

yea, you're right there, hehe.

I did a resonance test in that area, i laid only 1 layer of Damplifier on 1 wall and the other i left untouched. Went outside the car to "knock" on each side.
The side with the deadening was a lot more solid with a deep thud sound rather than a hollow echoing pinging sound.

I have 18 sqft of deadening on each wall. I still need to put some on the wheel well as i'm leavin that to do later.

As far as "bang for the buck" goes I would say that area would benefit more then the doors. It is easier to do and makes a great deal of difference.

I've been told it takes about 30 sqft to do the doors I can't imagine the rear panels taking 32.5 sqft unless I overkill it, which I won't be doing because I don't think its very economical. shizzzon says 18 each wall and he thinks 260sqft is a minimal job for the car so yea..

lol, I used almost a whole roll of rammat (62.5ft) just for the doors.

yeah you can really use a ton if you want. i think i ended up using 20 ft a door plus 10 feet a door of the foam stuff

i sealed my access holes off with metal flashing then covered it all up with edead v1se2. worked awesome. i have sick mid-bass and the doors are pretty quiet.

i'm not saying you HAVE to use that much because it depends on how much flex you have.

If your sub box doesn't block the back seat walls then install the setup first then see how much you need back there.

I was just told to put 3 layers everywhere based upon my setup, not for anybody.

But i'll tell you this, after 3 layers on that wall, go knock on it now, hehe, it doesn't even flex when you push it softly anymore, and the sound it gives off is like knockin on the outside A pillar but with a very deep thud sound, very solid and deep.

Are the rear walls contributing to the BMMMMMM noise when the sub hits thats seperate from the actual bass note being played or is that deadened just for the road noise? Because I wan't to have just the bass note, not sound like the rear end of the car is rattling off. Getting rid of road noise is great and all but I want to get rid of all the noises that I have when I'm sitting still that effect the sound first.

the only way to find out is go somewhere safe and blast test tones one at a time. Find out what parts of the car make noise and fix it.

Is it necessary to use self tapping screws or can I just duct tape the aluminum to the door and just cover it with deadener? Wouldn't the deadener hold it up?

please do not use ducttape

do it right or don't do it

Why would you want to Use duct tape over self tapping screws? Over time the tape is going to lose it's adhesion and fall off where as the screws aren't going anywhere. And if you want to take them out just get the drill and voila! They're out.

The tape was just to hold it up until I get the deadener over it. That's why I added "Wouldn't the deadener hold it up?"