I have one of these paired along this. I know I know, too much huh? This is where I need everyones help to keep this bad boy sounding good. Got a good Stinger Amp Kit and RCA's and a DE inline converter.

My first question is where should I locate this amp? I was thinking maybe underneath the rear seats? Is there enough room back there? If theres not maybe under the drivers or pass seat?

Next, this Stinger Amp Kit was $75 I want this kit to stay complete, I mean that by if I mount the amp closer to the front and I have left over cable. Is it bad to just put put the extra cable in a loop, like by winding it up like a hose?

How about a cap? Should I need one for the Scion?

The JL Slash I bought used didn't come with a remote bass control. My friend has an older BOSS Amp that had a controller. Can I use the BOSS Amp controller with the Slash amp? Do they all work the same?

I'm sure I will have lots of questions to come because I am going to be putting this all in today. Thank you all for your help!!

 

not all bass ***** are the same... some are a headphone jack type plug, some are a phone jack type, some have 4-7 pins, best thing to do is compare the plugs, then if it matches, try it.. as far as amp placement, no clue, just try the amp in different places to see if it'll fit, i don't know how big your amp is but just try different spots til you find a place for it.

 

You can mount the amp under a seat, but depending on where you live, I'd make a cover from MDF and some carpet to protect it from the sides and the back. It also depends on which slash series model you got.

I wouldn't recommend using the BOSS amp controller (or anything from them in fact...) with your JL product.

Winding the cable won't produce any noticable significant sound. I've done it with mine and I haven't heard anything. It's just good practice to keep power and the RCA's away from each other.

 

uuuuuummmm....what's the "I have one of these paired along this. I know I know, too much huh?" Some pics would help? What do you have...subs/enclosure,specs for the amp..,etc??? You can't get too much help without more info.

 

Alright! Got everything in and how (basically) I want it. Oh man this W7 hits so hard. I had to turn down everything. I haven't had time to do a real tune yet but about 5min with playing with the EQ on SNS it sounds so nice. Highs and mids are there but those lows..enough to make your stomach tighten!!

The JL Slash fit perfectly (with cutting some of the spare tire foam) between the plastic cubby holes right next to the rear seats. Towards the front of the car. The amp makes the spare tire cover raise alittle bit towards the front but I think I will be building a false floor.I ran the power and remote on the left side, and then the RCA's on the right. The snap together trim pieces of this car makes everything soo simple!!

Should I get a cap for this setup? What do you guys recommend on sound deadening? The guy at the local A/V shop said I should go with some fat-mat. I was surprised that the only rattles I was getting was from the hatch itself.

Man, I love this car soo much! Pics tomorrow!

 

FatMat's alright. Personally, I've been using SecondSkin product. Namely the DamplifierPro. From the tests I've seen (they are a little dated) it's pretty much the best product out there. I only have 1 layer on my front doors and it's made a noticable difference.

A capacitor isn't really needed. You can do the big 3 and maybe a battery upgrade. Those are my suggestions. I'm not a fan of capacitors.

Once again, it depends on the size of your amplifier. I have a 3000rms (REAL 3000rms) amp, but I'm only using about 1500rms of it. I have an extra battery, big 3 done, and a single run of 1/0 Kicker Hyperflex. I have no dimming whatsoever. Full tilt my voltage drops no lower than 11.3volts.

It seems we have more serious stereo guys!

 

W7 in a ported box that's made for a W7. JL 1000/1v1 Amp and I believe 4/4 gauge wiring to the amp. Just a rough tune for this amp. Theres an instruction sheet JL gives you to ballpark tune the JL amp itself.

Running both at recommend 3ohms. Also running a Directed Electronics Inline converter to Stinger RCA's to the Slash. Using the I believe SSP set to neutral, that CSE is one 1 and BASS is 3/2 settings.

I will have pictures tomorrow showing how everything is setup.

The big 3. I want to do that but I don't think I know what gauge to run. How about 0?

What do you mean a serious stereo guy?

 

Well, W7's are okay. But highly overpriced for what they are... Just my opinion. I'm pretty sure you'll get much better performance with a better enclosure, as well. But as long as you're happy, that's all that matters, right?

Since you're not running that much power, I'd say run 4gauge for your big 3. If you get a high output alternator and start running more power, then I'd say up it to 1/0.


And serious stereo to me is fabrication, more than 2000watts, and just craziness. Lol!

 

I got the amp for free on a trade. The box was used from a local A/V shop. They charged me $100 for it. The W7, well was $300 but its a few years old, guy bought it and never installed it. He had the original box and receipt.

I think I got a good deal.

Oh and yeah I try to use quality equipment and not Wal-Mart Dubs.

 

3 bills for a W7 is a heck of a deal! $100 for a box is decent, but the general speca are just that. General. If I built a ported box for my Orions, I'd have a box tuned to 28hz, and I think that's a little low for a car audio environment.

And free amp?!?!?! SCORE!!!

You could even get the non stop tuning's alternator pulley. It's a little smaller than stock, and doesn't have the clutch in it. I'm scooping one up as soon as I get some extra $$$. I also have a high output alternator for a tC. Pulley's too large, though.

If I decide to swap out my 180amp alternator, it'll be up for sale!

 

Forget the cap, upgrade the big 3 wiring. It'll make much more difference. Also, try to keep your cable runs short, to minimize voltage drop. If its a matter of a few inches, leave it, but if its a foot or more, I would cut it down. Our 12 volt systems aren't ideal for car audio, since it requires us to deal with high amperages to get the same wattage. High amperage means thick cables. When you've only got 12 volts to work with (closer to 13.8 really), every bit counts, especially when you start moving up into the high wattage amps, say 1kw+

 

Well, after a few more rough tunes I'm getting the nice clean low bass when I want. Then if I want to beat down the block I can turn it up with the bass controller. <- Got one from the local A/V shop.

Also, when I was talking to the guy he was saying that with the Viper 5900 installed would be around $620 after tax and everything. Said that included *if* my car needed the bypass for the "chip in the key." I'm not very familiar with the security keys on these vehicles. Any suggestions on this?

Amp location



Dub 7

 

3000RMS @ 1 Ohm? Isn't that like...750 @ 4Ohms?? Would 3000@ 4 be "real" 3000?

If the amp is a 500/1 and you're not doing a 4-channel, you should be fine without a cap or anything.

If you're going to run a 2nd amp or that's their 1000/1, you can go with the big-3 upgrade or a cap. Adding an additional battery is extreme overkill for what you're running most likely, and far too complicated unless you're going bananas with your setup. (IE 3000+ RMS @ 4Ohms or equivalent). You can get any cap known to man relatively cheap, and you can get pretty lighted ones too, and they're trivial to setup/install.

As for extra cable, you should cut it IMHO - you never want the powercable any longer than necessary, same with the ground.

You can put 2 amps (the JL 500/1 and 300/4 fit) under the rear seat if you cutout the tray - you have to completely take apart the rear seat, which if you sound-deaden the entire car you may be doing anyways. I believe 13x9 is the dimensions that will fit under there without cutting the seats, and only slight pressure on the amps if you put them long-dimension side to side.