What's up people...I have a Pioneer AVIC-N2 Head unit and just purchased 2 Pioneer Premier W-2501D2 10" 2500 watt subs and 2 Pioneer Premier PRS-1200SPL 2400 watt amps. I have 2 runs of 0/1 gauge power and ground wires run to power them. My head unit only has 1 output for pre-amp sub RCA's. I also got 2 y-splitters to split the pre-amp output to two outputs and have 2 RCA's to run to each amp. My goal is to run each amp separately from each other and each runs only 1 sub. My question is is using the y-splitter to get two sets of RCA's the best way to go in the setup I'm trying to achieve? Thanks for your help guys!

I guess that's what you'll have to do...but why buy separate amps for same type of subs....They should be crossed over the same and there's no need to separate left vs. right for the subs. This is why bridged mono's are so popular.

Its not to separate left from right, each RCA will carry left and right signals to each amp and sub. I don't want to bridge it to give me the option to only run 1 amp and sub at a time if I want. If I bridge it I would always have to run both amps and subs together. Each amp will also be wired to its own remote turn on switch so they can be manually turned on.

What I'd really like to know is if using a y-splitter will compromise sound quality at all.

You may lose some signal.........but........if you use a good quality RCA and good Quality splitter you will be ahead of the game.......did you look at KnuKoncepts wires yet.....I did an ohm test on them and they have a as rated signal.

I did look at KnuKoncepts but chose to go with Stinger's HPM3 series RCA's and splitters. This is supposed to be their top of the line series for their cables and cost me about $140 just for these cables. A lot of the other components I have are Stinger as well and that's why I went with them for these cables.

I went with the best I could afford of everything for this setup, so far I have spent about $1,700 on everything, and at this point I don't wanna get cheap on the little details.

the amps don't have an rca output to just send the signal to the other amp?

Yeah those stingers are great as well......should be fine......

So the only reason to run 2 amps is so you can turn one off when you want??? A remote bass knob could turn them down and you could wire a switch inline with your remote wire to turn the amp completely off if wanted...Somebody must have talked you into this, because unless these amps are strappable then a larger mono bridged would have better suited your needs. If it's not too late I would think of taking that other amp back and getting a decent 2 channel amp to power your fronts. Then upgrade the fronts to components when you get the chance... But you'll be fine with a quality splitter to your subs.

ahhhh sweet plainfield i'm moving there.

but i'm kinda lost to what you're trying to do. what was the reason for running two amps and two subs?

The main reason to run 2 amps and 2 subs is to maximize output without over working any one single component. If each amp only has the job to power 1 sub, then in theory the workload is split. By splitting the workload of each amp, heat caused by use is minimized and therefore should last longer.

Cam ram, to have the option to run only 1 sub if I want isn't the main or only reason I'm doing it this way, although that is a choice. Each amp does have a remote bass knob, but that I'm gonna wire so that I only need 1 knob to control both amps.

Basically the main idea is to share the workload between 2 amps so nothing overheats. Also, getting 1 amp that has 2400 watts RMS and maximum output of 4,800-5,000 watts would be really expensive.

Nebster, where in Plainfield are you moving? I live by Rt. 59 and 143. We should meet up when you get settled down.

Oh and once I get everything done I'll post some pictures up, I just thought of a really cool idea for an amp rack, I'm gonna try to make them look like they are somewhat 'floating'. I got the idea from an episode of Pimp My Ride lol!

Nebster, where in Plainfield are you moving? I live by Rt. 59 and 143. We should meet up when you get settled down.

Oh and once I get everything done I'll post some pictures up, I just thought of a really cool idea for an amp rack, I'm gonna try to make them look like they are somewhat 'floating'. I got the idea from an episode of Pimp My Ride lol!

my new place is off of 59 by caton farm road, right by the kohls and jewel, across the street from the golf course there

[quote=djrza786]



my new place is off of 59 by caton farm road, right by the kohls and jewel, across the street from the golf course there


I know where that's at, I drive past that area everyday to go to work.

yep, where do you work?

At Costco on the corner of Rt. 59 and 75th

oh ok cool. yeah dude, if you have aim or something hit me up.

as far as wirring your amp its pretty simple, just positive to your positive, negative to your ground and as far as a remote wire just use the blue one sticking out from the back of your headunit. if you want to wait a month i'll help ya but if you don't thats cool, really not hard at all. as far as the rca's those amps are strappable so you just run your normal rca's out of your headunit and then one rca from one amp to the other and then you'll set the 1st amp as the master and the 2nd amp as the slave. all your gains from the master will be related to the slave so you can have even power to both subs. hope that helps

Just use the sync mode on the amp itself...

Also lets not bloat power rating here, that amp is 1200watt RMS. Also power rating of subs too, just because it can handle 2500watts MAX doesn't mean it will, its 800watts RMS.

Just use the sync mode on the amp itself...

Also lets not bloat power rating here, that amp is 1200watt RMS. Also power rating of subs too, just because it can handle 2500watts MAX doesn't mean it will, its 800watts RMS.

I'm glad you understand power ratings and what RMS means...I already know what the RMS and max is on the amps and subs, nothing was being "bloated", I'm not an engineer so I cant say whether or not the amps or subs will truly perform at the rating given by the manufacturer, but I do know that if I want to keep the warranty I need to stay within the specs given. And in all honesty, everyone knows from experience that most electronics in this category don't put out what the manufacturer says, sometimes its more like with JL Audio or sometimes its less with off-brand equipment. I figure Pioneer is somewhere in the middle so I'm hoping that it will perform as specified.

No you need to understand what it means and not come in here stating you have 2400watt amps, when in all actuality it is 1200watts.

No you need to understand what it means and not come in here stating you have 2400watt amps, when in all actuality it is 1200watts.

Dude, re-read what I wrote, I'll say more clearly so you you understand better, I said the amp MAX'S out at 2400 watts, everyone knows that the MAX power is almost always double the RMS or continuous output. I'm not saying anything that isn't true or stated by Pioneer,
"PRS-D1200SPL

Premier Competition-Level SPL Class D Mono Amplifier with 2400 Watts Max. Power

*
1200 Watts of Continuous Power
*
SIgnal-to-Noise Ratio: 70db
*
Multi-Amplifier Synchronization System (MASS)"

http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Products/CarAudioVideo/Amplifiers/ChampionshipSeries/PRS-D1200SPL

Check it out for yourself and see if anything I said was boasted.
And what's your beef anyway? I asked a question to people who have experience wiring amps using y-splitters and how it might effect sound quality, not for you to critique the specifics on the amps ratings.

dude you don't need to use the y splitter. read what i posted.

You need to look at the fuses to know what an amp can really do...and you should take neb's advice if they are strappable. If they are actually over 50 Amp fuses each. You'll want to look into an alternator...I believe OEM load is 100 Amps. But this is a true measure of the output of your amplifiers. Efficiency is a whole other topic. Either way get em wired up and enjoy.