What are all your preferences to motor oil?
I am just curious to what every seems to be using as the "blood" in your xB's.
Currently I am using whatever 5W20 oil the dealer put in there, but next Tuesday I am doing my change and have my Mobile 1 0W20 ready to go in. Can't wait!
I would of proffered to try Pennzoil Platinum 0W20 but is really impossible to find unless I order online, so I will just go with Mobile 1 and see how it does.
What are all you guys using?
Currently I am using whatever 5W20 oil the dealer put in there, but next Tuesday I am doing my change and have my Mobile 1 0W20 ready to go in. Can't wait!
I would of proffered to try Pennzoil Platinum 0W20 but is really impossible to find unless I order online, so I will just go with Mobile 1 and see how it does.
What are all you guys using?
I did the free 5k at the dealer and they scratched my wheels a little while prying off the center caps.
I'm going to do the 10k myself. I'd rather spend half a day at home than going to the dealer to watch them butcher my car again.
I'm going with Mobil 1 0w20 and probably a toyota filter. Anybody know if the TRD oil filter is worth it? I'd probably go for a mobil 1 filter for that price.
I'm going to do the 10k myself. I'd rather spend half a day at home than going to the dealer to watch them butcher my car again.
I'm going with Mobil 1 0w20 and probably a toyota filter. Anybody know if the TRD oil filter is worth it? I'd probably go for a mobil 1 filter for that price.
People tend to get very defensive about their choice of oil and like to think that they are using the best stuff made. Honestly, I highly doubt that in a street driven economy car we would ever see any differnece between any oils. Just use something that passes the proper standars and change ot often enough with a decent filter and you will ot have a problem. I personally prefer sythetics only because I like the extended drain intervals. I use Walmarts own oil called Supertech. It is 100% sythetic and passes all the requirements and it is really cheap.
In my two stroke ATV I only use Motul 100% ester based sythetic.
In my two stroke ATV I only use Motul 100% ester based sythetic.
I use Amsoil for the long drain intervals. I use a Wix filter with filter Magnets and change the oil every 20,000 miles and the oil filter every 10,000 miles.
Amsoil says there oil is good for up to 25,000 miles.
Before everyone flames me I have been doing this for years - my last vehicle had over 335,000 and did burn a drop of oil.
Amsoil says there oil is good for up to 25,000 miles.
Before everyone flames me I have been doing this for years - my last vehicle had over 335,000 and did burn a drop of oil.
My first oil change I used 0w20 Toyota synthetic. When I can find a close source for 0w20 Mobile 1, that is probably what I'll go with.
Anyone know who actually makes Toyota synthetic oil?
Dan.
Anyone know who actually makes Toyota synthetic oil?
Dan.
It's not thicker though...
0W-20 and 5W-20 are same weight at operating temp. 0W will just be thinner for cold starts, which is something you WANT the most of. No oil made is thin enough to properly lubricate an engine at startup currently.
Here is all the information you'd ever need to know about oil thickness/grades.
http://ferrarichat.com/forum/faq.php...tor_oil_basics
Basically to sum it all up, go to 0W if you can no matter what. As the car gets older the only variable you should be changing is from 0W20 to 0W30 to 0W40, etc...
So if you can, run the thinnest "cold" weight you can. Its still way to thick to lubricate and protect the engine at startup but will be MUCH better for our engines.
0W-20 and 5W-20 are same weight at operating temp. 0W will just be thinner for cold starts, which is something you WANT the most of. No oil made is thin enough to properly lubricate an engine at startup currently.
Here is all the information you'd ever need to know about oil thickness/grades.
http://ferrarichat.com/forum/faq.php...tor_oil_basics
Basically to sum it all up, go to 0W if you can no matter what. As the car gets older the only variable you should be changing is from 0W20 to 0W30 to 0W40, etc...
So if you can, run the thinnest "cold" weight you can. Its still way to thick to lubricate and protect the engine at startup but will be MUCH better for our engines.
Im going for the first 2 oil changes with the dealer. 1st one will be b4 I go on vacation or even while im one vacation, either way, b4 1500 miles..The 2nd will be done at 4500 miles..THEN, Im going with 0w-20 Amsoil.I will have to order it on-line as I cant find it here..probably amsoil oil filters as well..Just in time for winter driving.Ill be riding the bike all summer...AJ
Yeah, im a big time "browser" over at bobistheoilguy.com forums, and it seems to be that the "fan favorite" out of all the synthetics are pennzoil platinum, returning what seem to be the best "UOA's", which are bascially oil tests to determine specific metal wear.
I was going to try the PP, but I can't find 0W20 anywhere around here, just Mobile 1.
However, any synthetic will be just fine especially with the "short" 5k intervals most of us will be doing. If we really pushed our oil, then it would be important I guess to try to scavenge the absolute best oil. haha
I was going to try the PP, but I can't find 0W20 anywhere around here, just Mobile 1.
However, any synthetic will be just fine especially with the "short" 5k intervals most of us will be doing. If we really pushed our oil, then it would be important I guess to try to scavenge the absolute best oil. haha
I'm not wanting to get into a debate on good or bad, but I am using Mobil 1 synthetic 5W-30 regular not the extended milage stuff. I am also using the PureOne PL14477 oil filters. I live in Southern Arizona 40 miles from the Mexican border and like the extra protection the heaver weight oil provides.





