This is an install how-to for the TWM short shifter for the Scion tC.
First of all, I am NOT responsible for what you or this aftermarket part does to your car. Unless you are completely comfortable with tearing things apart and getting your hands dirty, DO NOT PROCEED.
* ALWAYS keep hardware (bolts, nuts, screws, anything) in a SAFE PLACE.
Tools you'll need:
- Screwdrivers, phillips and flathead
- Socket wrench and socket set
- Hammer
- Dremel
- Patience
Here is what you'll get from TWM. The shift lever, some replacement clips, a special tool for the installation, a few decals, and some absolutely worthless instructions:
Underneath, you'll find too bolts holding the rear section down. Use a 3/8 socket to unscrew them. They aren't very tight,
they almost felt as if they were finger-tight. Pull out the bolts and put them in a safe place.
Behind the shifter assembly, at the bottom of the shift lever, you'll find this clip holding the arm to the lever. Use your thumb or a tool to unfasten the clip. I found that I did not have to remove this completely, so i just pushed the little rods out of the way.
I'm getting frustrated again, thinking about this part. The instructions read that you should use a flathead screwdriver to pry the washer/clip off of the end of this rod. It's not that easy. My first recommendation would be to use Mikochu's dremel method, shown here:
Or, you could do what I did, and jimmy it out while swearing alot. I boogered up the assembly pretty bad, and the fact that I used a rusty screwdriver makes it look even worse. Alas, I did it. Just be prepared to scuff up your assembly if you go this route.
Next, use a punch, or screwdriver, to push this rod out of the lefthand side. I tapped it loose with a hammer, then tapped the handle of a screwdriver to slide it out. Slide the rod out and put it in a safe place. Then remove the leftmost part of the assembly from the smaller ball of the shift lever. Make note of the spring configuration. Try not to disturb it, but if you do, make sure to return it back to where it should be.
With some more scuffing, swearing, and prying, pop off the piece that holds the lever down in place. Leverage is nonexistant here, so be careful about how forceful you are.
Included is a special tool for snapping it off. TWM says you should place the lever in a vice, and this, and that, and yadda yadda yadda. But I found myself reverting back to Mikochu's wise methods, shown below.
Another victory. Make sure to grease up the lower ball on the lever with some lubricant. I found that the stock shifter was covered in enough goop to transfer to the new lever with my fingertips. This part is your call, though.
Pop the cap onto the bottom of the new lever. I did this by letting the cap stick to the lube on the ball joint, and giving it a quick jab at the pavement. I wouldn't use too much force though. Again, getting this done is your call.
After greasing up the ball joints, seat the lever in the stock assembly and replace the upper ring. The piece uses clips, so it will take some brute force to get it to snap back down. Once the upper plastic ring is in place, pull up on the lever to see if there is any play in the joint. If not, you're okay. Don't worry about how the ball joints connect yet.
Now, move that assembly on the lefthand side back into place. Make sure that the spring mechanism is in it's original position. The lefthand ball joint on the lever should be peeking through.
Use a hammer to lightly tap the rod back through it's original shaft. Once it's all the way, give it a few more taps to compress the spring a bit. The end of the rod should be sticking out of the other end.
I know, it looks really gross. This is what happens when you use a rusty screwdriver to monkey up your stock assembly. Again, I would recommend the dremel method. But anyway, place the new washer/clip provided by TWM around the end of the shaft. The teeth should be sticking out. Use a hammer and an oversized socket to work the washer/clip into place.
Next, reach under the assembly and seat the bottom of the lever in the arm harness. Pull the two-sided clip back over so it holds the plastic cup in place.
Replace the main console piece: Two screws under the AC controls and the two bolts in the storage compartment. Reconnect the pieces pointed out in the picture.
I would almost recommend this as a first upgrade. It really feels more like driving a sports coupe than a sedan after the new shifter is in. It takes a bit more effort to make the throws, but if you're on top of it, it's really fun.
Enjoy, and drive safely.
-John
ChefRaekwon
11-29-2004, 11:13 PM
Good write-up.
Munch
11-29-2004, 11:25 PM
Good write-up.
Yes indeed 8) .
JT_Scion
11-29-2004, 11:39 PM
I second that.. nice write up. Can you still keep your arm on the center console while shifting.. or is it too low to reach down? haha i like being able to reach it while my arm is rested on the console.
cad455
11-29-2004, 11:41 PM
i could still rest my arm in the same place, something i was worrying about too :P
svt331
11-30-2004, 12:21 AM
Very good write up. I just put mine in this past weekend. I got the metal clip to pop off pretty easy without a dremel. I used one regular sized flat head and a hammer to wedge the screw driver into one side between the plastic and the ring. Then I got a larger flat head and hammered it into the other side of the ring. Then I hammered once on one then the other driving both screw drivers between the ring. It quickly popped off. No sweat!
v0lc0m85
11-30-2004, 01:23 AM
awsome write up. i will defenetally be refering to this when i put in my short shifter. good job!
naztyTC
11-30-2004, 01:27 AM
it's very easy to do, i had mine done in about 20 min i dont understand why your though the instructions are crap you basically copied what it said to do, but either way nice job 8)
cad455
11-30-2004, 01:50 AM
the instructions give you a rough idea of what to do. if you think those horrible photographs and simple instructions are good, i don't want to know what you think is bad.
naztyTC
11-30-2004, 01:54 AM
bad is not having anything at all. yes the pics were kinda crapy but still you got the idea and it pretty much told you in words what to do oh well no big deal um not here to crap on ya 8)
jlaznlover
11-30-2004, 04:25 AM
very good write up bro.
i recommend this be put into the tech section
mikochu
11-30-2004, 04:35 AM
I could've sworn I posted in this thread...
Good job, John. It's in the Tech section. I'll move it to the FAQ forum in a week or so.
brian
11-30-2004, 09:00 PM
Wow, this is a great write up. Maybe I should go order the TWM shifter now...
papi4baby
12-01-2004, 03:00 AM
Awesome job, oh by the way im new sup y'all
hipinioned
12-01-2004, 05:49 AM
If you guys want a TWM shifters, don't do it individually. Let's do a MASS BUY!
Do not pay $159 for something worth $100.
Joel
jlaznlover
12-01-2004, 03:58 PM
if there is a group buy for the twm shifter, count me in
brian
12-01-2004, 06:43 PM
yeah, if there's a group buy, i'm in as well. is twm the only company currently that has a short shifter out for the tc?
Ibiza
12-01-2004, 09:57 PM
yeah, ditto, im in sho'
tCshamgar
12-07-2004, 04:14 AM
I'm in for a mass buy
I've had my eyes on that TWM for a few weeks.
Good write-up! It'll make my install easy when i get mine.
i64X
12-11-2004, 02:53 PM
I wont be buying that at all... it's a total waste of money for something it doesn't do. It dosen't shorten the shifts, it just feels like it does cuz they made the top of the shifter shorter. A "short shifter" doesn't mean that the stick you see is shorter necessarily, it means that your shift throws are shorter. This is accomplished by raising the pivot point on the shifter (the ball) like this:
What TMW did on that shifter could easily be accomplished by taking your stock shfiter out and hack-sawing about 2" from the top of it and then installing some kind of universal set-screw type shift knob. Check this out:
http://www.i64x.com/tmw.jpg
They didn't raise the pivot point at all... it's exactly the same length as the stock one. The whole idea behind raising the pivot point is that it takes less movement on top of that point to make the bottom of the lever move more.
TMWs shifter isn't a "short shfiter" at all... it's just a "shortened" shifter and provides no real performance upgrade. It's simply for looks... and it costs way more than it should.
TWM_Performance
12-14-2004, 03:16 PM
I wont be buying that at all... it's a total waste of money for something it doesn't do. It dosen't shorten the shifts, it just feels like it does cuz they made the top of the shifter shorter. A "short shifter" doesn't mean that the stick you see is shorter necessarily, it means that your shift throws are shorter. This is accomplished by raising the pivot point on the shifter (the ball) like this:
What TMW did on that shifter could easily be accomplished by taking your stock shfiter out and hack-sawing about 2" from the top of it and then installing some kind of universal set-screw type shift knob. Check this out:
http://www.i64x.com/tmw.jpg
They didn't raise the pivot point at all... it's exactly the same length as the stock one. The whole idea behind raising the pivot point is that it takes less movement on top of that point to make the bottom of the lever move more.
TMWs shifter isn't a "short shfiter" at all... it's just a "shortened" shifter and provides no real performance upgrade. It's simply for looks... and it costs way more than it should.
Your concept is correct but in this case the picture you used to illustrate your point is slightly misleading. First, the shifters are at an odd angle which creates the illusion that they are the same length below the pivot ball when in fact they are not. Also, the stock shifter still has the plastic cup installed on the lower ball, which makes it appear longer than it actually is because it ends lower than the ball inside it does. I do, however, see how you could make this assumption based on the picture you saw as it does create a strange illusion.
Our tC shifter is actually roughly .5" longer below the pivot ball, the maximum amount of added length possible due to clearance issues with the shift assembly.
I've attached a picture we took quickly this morning that shows a stock tC shifter next to our part from an overhead perspective, as you can see the difference in length below the pivot ball is much more apparant from this angle.
http://www.twmperformance.com/TC-stock-vs.twm.gif
I hope this clears things up a little bit, feel free to contact me directly if anyone ever has any questions about our products.
Thanks,
Karel Wegert
TWM Performance
i64X
12-16-2004, 04:05 AM
Ah that looks much better. I figured there would be some clearance issues just looking at the setup that Scion choice. I'm used to Hondas as far as installing short shfiters goes... there you only have to worry about hitting the exhaust or the ground. :) (Civics and Integras anyway).
That clears things up immensely. I'll consider getting one now. Are they steel or aluminum? I've had some of the cheaper aluminum ones break on my Hondas before.
Tommy_Tran
12-22-2004, 12:47 AM
cad455
I'm interested in the way the shifter now feels. A dedicated Honda guy here and I love the tC... hate the shift action, its the clunkyest crapfeeling shifter. Does this help the feel of the shifting? Typically cable shifters still dont feel so hot with a SS kit... any insight? Thx
Peace
purpled_out_tC
12-31-2004, 11:49 PM
too bad they raised the price
vikvaughn
01-20-2005, 09:11 AM
I just ordered the short shifter last nite, if there is not an update on this in abt a week I'll post something up abt the feel of the shifter....I to WAS a dedicated Honda guy it both of my civics I had the DC short shifter loved the way it felt, hopefully this one will be close to that or give the same stiff feel..can't wait to get the shifter in...
TWM_Performance
01-20-2005, 05:15 PM
Ah that looks much better. I figured there would be some clearance issues just looking at the setup that Scion choice. I'm used to Hondas as far as installing short shfiters goes... there you only have to worry about hitting the exhaust or the ground. :) (Civics and Integras anyway).
That clears things up immensely. I'll consider getting one now. Are they steel or aluminum? I've had some of the cheaper aluminum ones break on my Hondas before.
Great! I'm glad it makes more sense now. Our tc shifters are all made from steel. There are some diameters on Toyota shifters that are small enough to make aluminum a dangerous choice in terms of potential for breakage.
As far as the group buy goes, why doesn't someone post an interest thread and we can see how many people we can get togeather. We'd be open to offering a discount if we can get 10-20 people ready to buy.
Thanks!
hipinioned
01-23-2005, 06:08 AM
Shortening the existing shifter is the way to go. The feel is just as good. I will never pay $189 for the TWM.
Wait until a competitor comes up with a better product.
Joel
markuswelby
01-26-2005, 05:45 PM
B&M shifter is now available. The shifter height is unchanged and they boast a 25% shift throw reduction. Also, they add Alum. bushings to eliminate some of the shifter base flex.
vikvaughn
02-06-2005, 04:07 AM
Ok... Finally got the TWM short shifter kit installed today and its feels amazing. It feels similar to the stock Honda S2000 and Mazda Miata shifters. I'm really impressed w/ the way this shifter feels, along w/ the TWM shiftknob it makes a big difference as far as sliding into gear.... :bow: TWM gets major props....
nethack4ever
03-09-2005, 02:53 AM
I just installed this today. The instructions posted here are perfect! I have never installed a short shifter before and I got it done without confusion thanks to these instructions. Thanks cad455.
That ring really is a pain in the butt to get off. My dremel ended up carving nicks into the plastic housing around the ring. I still had to stick a screwdriver in to pry out the ring, after the dremel weakened the ring enough.
Also, if you follow the instructions to shorten the shift boot instead of just cutting off the excess, make sure that the extra vinyl doesn't interfere with the shift. I re-folded the extra vinyl back into the middle.
Pros:
* More positive engagement for each shift. You know you're in gear, in any gear.
* Definitely shorter throws.
* Less wobbly action when in gear. It really feels solid.
* It looks nicer when it's shorter. I'm short and have zero problems reaching for a shift.
Cons:
* A bit notchy. But nothing I can't get used to.
* $125 and I don't even get bushings for the base? Oh well, I probably can't tell the difference anyway.
I haven't tried any of the other shoft shifters, so I can't compare.
spitfire911
03-20-2005, 12:36 AM
thanks for the great post! installing that shifter was a royal pain, but i think without your instructions, it would have taken me considerably longer.
oh, and for anyone who doesnt have a dremel, i used a hacksaw to cut off that clip. it only took me about 10 minutes and was relatively painless.
TWM_Performance
03-22-2005, 03:25 PM
Ok... Finally got the TWM short shifter kit installed today and its feels amazing. It feels similar to the stock Honda S2000 and Mazda Miata shifters. I'm really impressed w/ the way this shifter feels, along w/ the TWM shiftknob it makes a big difference as far as sliding into gear.... :bow: TWM gets major props....
I'm glad to see you like the shifter!
The sale is still on by the way :)
Karel
TWM
sdparks
03-27-2005, 02:28 AM
Try this to get the cap off with minimal damage. Pry both sides at the same time.
http://www.mindspring.com/~stephens_tc/postingpics/prying%20shifter%20cap.jpg
Beantowntc
03-30-2005, 07:31 PM
yeah that cap was easy and i used a dremel for the side piece...thanks for the instructions worked like a charm
VIP_tC
04-01-2005, 03:18 AM
Try this to get the cap off with minimal damage. Pry both sides at the same time.
http://www.mindspring.com/~stephens_tc/postingpics/prying%20shifter%20cap.jpg
It is funny - of all the pics ive seen of this cap, none of them have the two clamps on it like mine does. I had to pry them off before I could pop the cap off. Not a real big deal, but I wonder why some people dont have them on their car...???
nekojiro1123
04-07-2005, 12:27 AM
Thx for your write up, and today, i hav installed it.
But i dropped a clip connecting with the bottom of the shifter.
i couldn't find it because it goes into a hole....
i wanna know if i can buy it somewhere, or if i hav any ways to take that out.
The hole is right below the shifter, and it doesn't stick with magnet...
mazda_charles
08-29-2005, 08:30 AM
I wont be buying that at all... it's a total waste of money for something it doesn't do. It dosen't shorten the shifts, it just feels like it does cuz they made the top of the shifter shorter. A "short shifter" doesn't mean that the stick you see is shorter necessarily, it means that your shift throws are shorter. This is accomplished by raising the pivot point on the shifter (the ball) like this:
What TMW did on that shifter could easily be accomplished by taking your stock shfiter out and hack-sawing about 2" from the top of it and then installing some kind of universal set-screw type shift knob. Check this out:
http://www.i64x.com/tmw.jpg
They didn't raise the pivot point at all... it's exactly the same length as the stock one. The whole idea behind raising the pivot point is that it takes less movement on top of that point to make the bottom of the lever move more.
TMWs shifter isn't a "short shfiter" at all... it's just a "shortened" shifter and provides no real performance upgrade. It's simply for looks... and it costs way more than it should.
Your concept is correct but in this case the picture you used to illustrate your point is slightly misleading. First, the shifters are at an odd angle which creates the illusion that they are the same length below the pivot ball when in fact they are not. Also, the stock shifter still has the plastic cup installed on the lower ball, which makes it appear longer than it actually is because it ends lower than the ball inside it does. I do, however, see how you could make this assumption based on the picture you saw as it does create a strange illusion.
Our tC shifter is actually roughly .5" longer below the pivot ball, the maximum amount of added length possible due to clearance issues with the shift assembly.
I've attached a picture we took quickly this morning that shows a stock tC shifter next to our part from an overhead perspective, as you can see the difference in length below the pivot ball is much more apparant from this angle.
http://www.twmperformance.com/TC-stock-vs.twm.gif
I hope this clears things up a little bit, feel free to contact me directly if anyone ever has any questions about our products.
Thanks,
Karel Wegert
TWM Performance
That picture he posted was of a Mazda Protege Kartboy shifter, versus a stock 1992 Mazda Protege shifter. I also ask that people not steal bandwidth. thanks
Acsilva84
10-04-2005, 09:37 PM
awesome write up. cant wait to get mine!
Limey
11-01-2005, 02:06 PM
I installed mine this weekend, I have one VERY IMPORTANT piece of advice to anyone installing a new shifter.
When you get at the full shift assembly (if you're doing it in car), there is a hole right in the middle, slightly towards the backseats direction. The hole is maybe 1.5" across and goes directly into the chassis (a bottomless pit).
When you can see this, take a piece of duct tape and cover it up.
This hole is in a perfect position to catch the center securing clip that fits on the bottom if you happen to drop it while taking it off, or putting it back on.
TAPE UP THE HOLE.
You have no idea how hard it is trying to get a metal clip out of a metal hole in a metal cave using a magnet. I do.
Love the shifter, I got the stage 1 (the really short one), my only issue is that the boot will need some major modifictaion, I've tried the whole fold it over thing, but it still bunches ugly, so I'll be taking it out and manly sowing it into a better fit.
Acsilva84
11-01-2005, 05:59 PM
limey...
i think the really short one is the stage 2.
Limey
11-01-2005, 09:58 PM
Stage 2, yes that's right.
TAPE UP THE HOLE PEOPLE !
StealthTC414
11-26-2005, 10:46 PM
well did mine last night and cracked the cap pretty bad so now i have to goto the dealer and see if i can order just the cap or the whole assembly, im ____ed
I found that after much stress and worry, taking a wide-tipped flat-head screw driver and popping up where you see the black pry bar on the left, it worked almost without need to pry the other side (superficially considering the work I put in before) This made the removal 30x easier once I had figured this part out.
jay_jay_n
12-14-2005, 07:51 AM
I installed mine this weekend, I have one VERY IMPORTANT piece of advice to anyone installing a new shifter.
When you get at the full shift assembly (if you're doing it in car), there is a hole right in the middle, slightly towards the backseats direction. The hole is maybe 1.5" across and goes directly into the chassis (a bottomless pit).
When you can see this, take a piece of duct tape and cover it up.
This hole is in a perfect position to catch the center securing clip that fits on the bottom if you happen to drop it while taking it off, or putting it back on.
TAPE UP THE HOLE.
You have no idea how hard it is trying to get a metal clip out of a metal hole in a metal cave using a magnet. I do.
Love the shifter, I got the stage 1 (the really short one), my only issue is that the boot will need some major modifictaion, I've tried the whole fold it over thing, but it still bunches ugly, so I'll be taking it out and manly sowing it into a better fit.
I was following the instructions but did not see this post until after i lost that daym piece into that hole.. pls someone update the first writeup to tell everyone to cover the hole...
Anybody kno where i can get a replacement securing clip for the bottom shifter linkage? i can't drive my car now since i've been trying to find that securing clip in with a magnet.. and no luck.. i think i pushed it to a crack or something and its stuck there.. PLS HELP!! i also need to replace the top shifter plastic piece since trying to take it off really made it pretty cracked up. Can i get these pieces at a local dealer? and if so what are the pieces called.. pls help!!
and i believe the 06 and 05 models have slight differences in the instructions such as a extra wire to disconnect and the metal clips that hold the top plastic piece. i'll take pics when i actually get this fixed... :(
Serialk1llr
12-14-2005, 01:29 PM
yikes...call a dealer and see if you can get a piece. I'd have no idea where else to get one, cept maybe from a dealer here on SL.
aoshi12345
12-14-2005, 01:32 PM
I am sorry for your loss. Your dealer parts's dept. should have them.
Limey
12-14-2005, 01:45 PM
I was following the instructions but did not see this post until after i lost that daym piece into that hole.. pls someone update the first writeup to tell everyone to cover the hole...
OHHH MAN that sucks. Sorry, I tried my best.
jay_jay_n
12-14-2005, 06:35 PM
its kool.. i couldn't find any dealers anywhere in my area that had it in stock.. as well as online doesn't have any parts like it. So i ordered it from a local dealer they said it would take a day.. if its in stock.. i HOPE they have it.. grrr.. i was so happy to get my twm stage 2 shifter.. :) first mod... i also kinda cracked the plastic retainer on the top that holds the shifter in place in the shifter cage... it seems like i need to get a full cage to repalce the part.. its just cracked a lil i dunno if i need to buy a new cage or just get something that would fill the plastic crack up.
grr first mod gone wrong :(
also the best thing to do is unbold the whole shifter cage since its easy enough.. to get to the spring so it won't fall into the hole.. and makes it a lot easier when dremeling the metal piece on the side.
jay_jay_n
12-14-2005, 08:05 PM
ohh yeah and one other thing.. i guess i should of been more carefull when trying to pry out the white plastic top cover of the shifter... because after trying to get it off i finally was able to get it a bit loose but still not able to pry it off i then just pulled it off with LUCKILY the stock shift knob still there.. and it went strait to the my right cheek right below my eye..OMFG THAT HURT!!.. and i'm just thankfull i had the shift knob on it at the time and that i don't have a fat lip of face lol... omg that would of been bad without the shift knob in place.. i recommend adjusting the write up to tell them to put the shift knob back when trying to remove the top plastic piece since it good result really bad without it, and it give a lot of leverage. ALSO DO NOT DO THIS IN THE DARK lol.. use a flash light.. i didn't have one.. since i was ____ed off on the whole thing.. if i had light i would have already noticed it was about to come off and not have a face full of the shifter knob.
:(
jay_jay_n
12-15-2005, 07:00 PM
well after all of that.. i was luckily enough to find the securing clip in between the carpet and metal frame.. grr.. i feel stupid for not searching harder....
lol...
well i got it installed and daym its short.. but honestly i can't tell the difference if the throws are shorter or its just a shorter shifter lever.... but TWM did make a great shifter it looks great and well built...
any body else have opinions?
Phixeus
12-27-2005, 03:28 AM
i got mine for Christmas (Thanks Kevin) and i got the Bomb Shell shift knob and i must say that this is the most ergonomicaly correct knob i have every seen or touched. it does not matter how you grab it. it always feels good. Oh and i got it in Gun Blue.
Phixeus, that knob looks awsome. How does it feel in your hand? I see you like touching and grabbing it because "it always feels good." Hell, I think I'd like to grab it too!
Phixeus
12-28-2005, 02:41 AM
right the guy telling my he wants me to spank my car wants to touch my knob?
anyway, its great. it does not matter what your shifting style is this knob will work for you. the weight helps smooth out the shifts as well.
no more dirty talk about my car, its freakin me out. thanks for the input though. it is greatly appreceated.
oh my God i cant spell, but its ok i have an excuse, im from Louisiana so its to be expected.
cryptz
01-05-2006, 04:43 AM
hey guys i bought the trd shortthrow from teh dealer when ig ot the car and they installed it. I know there was a new cage assembly for that, (or atleast it was pictured) i ordered the twm stage 2 because i wasnt happy with teh shifter height. Do you guys know if there are going to be any issues with the install since the trd shortthrow has a different shifter cage
R2D2
02-03-2006, 05:24 PM
:ponder:
summerofsam44
03-28-2006, 05:57 PM
Awesome posting this really helped with my install!
TwztedtC
03-30-2006, 08:51 AM
well I think this is definately my next mod after I get my exhaust and strut bar on next week
Phixeus
03-31-2006, 04:58 AM
Kevin and the guys at TWM might not recomend this but i threaded the rod some more and chopped another 2 inches off the stage 2 so the shifts are even shorter and the knob is in the box. i will trya nd get a pic posted this weekend. its hella short.
Sanjuro
04-03-2006, 04:53 PM
I just had to post a BIG thank you for taking the time to go through this install. The official instructions were completely worthless, and its too bad they wont just pay you some $$ and make this post the official instruction book. Ha ha.
This helped tremendously with my install this weekend, it really was quite complete. Thanks a bunch!
Jowie
04-16-2006, 12:51 PM
Try this to get the cap off with minimal damage. Pry both sides at the same time.
http://www.mindspring.com/~stephens_tc/postingpics/prying%20shifter%20cap.jpg
It is funny - of all the pics ive seen of this cap, none of them have the two clamps on it like mine does. I had to pry them off before I could pop the cap off. Not a real big deal, but I wonder why some people dont have them on their car...???
While installing my stereo stuff the other day I noticed the 2 metal clips on mine too. How do you go about removing them? I didn't take a really good look at em but since you have done it, I thought I might as well ask.
TWM_Performance
05-11-2006, 06:39 PM
Hi Guys,
Just wanted to let you all know we're doing a Group Buy on the tC short shifter for the next 2 weeks, here's the link: http://www.scionlife.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=119380
Thanks!
Kevin
TWM Performance
mikeemurda
06-11-2006, 10:23 PM
Great post this information was very helpful I used it to install my CCSS. This was my first mod to the car and it was pretty straight foward just a pain with the clips. Thanks
Control_Are
07-07-2006, 06:26 AM
Thanks for the thorough write up! I just finished installing the Stage 2 on my 06 FM. There were a couple deviations that future installers might want to be aware of:
1. I have the upgraded Ipod H/U and I was not able to completely remove the bottom-most part of the center console. There is a cable that runs to the arm rest storage compartment and I didn't want to guess and screw anything up so I left that part in place and just worked around it. It was a tight squeeze but I got around it just fine.
2. When prying off the cap that holds the shifter to the cage assembly, there are 2 metal clips that need to be unhooked first.
Thanks for all the info!
chrischoi
07-07-2006, 01:25 PM
Thanks for the thorough write up! I just finished installing the Stage 2 on my 06 FM. There were a couple deviations that future installers might want to be aware of:
1. I have the upgraded Ipod H/U and I was not able to completely remove the bottom-most part of the center console. There is a cable that runs to the arm rest storage compartment and I didn't want to guess and screw anything up so I left that part in place and just worked around it. It was a tight squeeze but I got around it just fine.
2. When prying off the cap that holds the shifter to the cage assembly, there are 2 metal clips that need to be unhooked first.
Thanks for all the info!
agreed with the 2 metal clips... and when i put the side part back on... i broke a bumper or something off.. what's that for? anyone know?
SquallLHeart
07-07-2006, 07:26 PM
^^ uh pics? not sure what you're talking about.
PandaPower
07-10-2006, 04:05 PM
Good write up, wish I had seen it before I did mine last night. That damn hole in the center ate two of my bolts :p and getting the cap off to take the shifter out was hell. but other than that it was pretty simple. Love how much smaller the shifter looks now :)
Jimmy
07-11-2006, 06:49 AM
i need to get one of these.
freestyle789
07-22-2006, 06:51 PM
black metal clips?!?!?!?! how do i get them out ?
filmnews
08-12-2006, 10:34 PM
I just installed my CC short shifter. That black washer was a pain in the ___. I would say it took about an hour and a half. It is a lot better then it was before.
aen
08-30-2006, 11:00 PM
the black clips...looks like its on the newer models of the tc, you just pry them off using a flathead skrew driver, but when you put the back on, the part that prevents the shifter from being pulled out, make sure you bend the clips back further or else you are gonna shove it all the way down and it'le be a butt getting them back up
cessblood
10-04-2006, 03:06 PM
I wish I saw this forum when I tried to install mine last night,
Ex_sPEC
01-20-2007, 08:11 AM
i was jus wonder if anyone has a metal clip 2 ...holding the the shifter down????? 07 fyi .....one on the bottom and one on the side ??? its where the middle ball is at?
Spect2K3
01-20-2007, 11:00 PM
Is that a stage 1 or stage 2 shifter in the DIY?
Is it the same DIY for an 06??
I can't decide between the two. Any recommendations? I need convincing!!
TWM_Performance
01-22-2007, 06:32 PM
Is that a stage 1 or stage 2 shifter in the DIY?
Is it the same DIY for an 06??
I can't decide between the two. Any recommendations? I need convincing!!
The DIY is the same for the stage 1 and stage 2, the install is identical for both. Personally I prefer the stage 2 tc short shifter (http://www.twmperformance.com/shortshifters/scionshortshifters/sciontcshortshifters.htm), but it really depends on personal preference. I like a lower knob height and an aggressive throw, but if you want to keep the knob height close to stock the stage 1 would be better suited. I can tell you that we do sell many more stage 2's than stage 1's, so I believe the general concensus would be that the stage 2 is preferred.
I hope this helps,
Kevin
TWM Performance
Spect2K3
01-23-2007, 12:07 AM
Thanks. That is indeed very helpful. I will be ordering one from you shortly. The only thing that was left out, is whether or not the DIY is the same for 05 and 06. Obviously this DIY is for an 05 based on the date, I have an 06 though. Thanks.
TWM_Performance
01-23-2007, 03:47 PM
Thanks. That is indeed very helpful. I will be ordering one from you shortly. The only thing that was left out, is whether or not the DIY is the same for 05 and 06. Obviously this DIY is for an 05 based on the date, I have an 06 though. Thanks.
The DIY is the same on the 06 as the 05, the only step that differs very slightly is that there may be 2 extra black clips holding the plastic top piece pictured below:
These clips can just be removed with a flat head screwdriver and replaced after the cap is re-installed.
Thanks,
Kevin
TWM
Spect2K3
01-23-2007, 04:47 PM
Thanks Kevin! Much appreciated
mattieg
01-23-2007, 05:11 PM
i heard people were having trouble with grinding second gear... did it get fixed? im sure it was just bad driving but i want to make sure first.
JQ
01-23-2007, 05:17 PM
i heard people were having trouble with grinding second gear... did it get fixed? im sure it was just bad driving but i want to make sure first.
I just recenlty bought the stage II shifter and did not notice grinding, but is was a bit difficult to get into 2nd gear. Since then I replace both the based bushings, and the shifter cable bushings. This fixed the difficult 2nd gear issuse. These mods where done around a month or so ago and it feels and looks great! One of the best mods I have done so far!
Hope this helps
Spect2K3
01-23-2007, 05:19 PM
The only grinding into 2nd i've heard of is when the car is cold for the first one or two shifts. I got so used to it that in the morning, I go from 1st to 2nd via neutral (not double clutching), but I don't go directly and no grinding that way. The tranny fluid just hasn't warmed yet and lubricated everything nicely. Nothing more/less. I've spoken to many dealers and experts about this and they say its normal. Whether I believe em or not is another story, but its happens and I prevent it by single clutch 1st to 2nd via neutral.
TWM_Performance
01-23-2007, 08:01 PM
i heard people were having trouble with grinding second gear... did it get fixed? im sure it was just bad driving but i want to make sure first.
I just recenlty bought the stage II shifter and did not notice grinding, but is was a bit difficult to get into 2nd gear. Since then I replace both the based bushings, and the shifter cable bushings. This fixed the difficult 2nd gear issuse. These mods where done around a month or so ago and it feels and looks great! One of the best mods I have done so far!
Hope this helps
Glad to hear the shifter base and cable bushings (http://www.twmperformance.com/bushingkits/) helped out. Thank for the props!
Kevin
TWM
engifineer
01-28-2007, 08:21 PM
I just installed a Dr. Isotope short shifter (which by the way is very nice) and had to add what I already suspected before installing.
Removing the washer took about 30 seconds.. VERY easy with nothing but a screwdriver. The whole job takes less than an hour, even with letting my 10 year old do some of the work along the way. So dont let people scare you away with tales of a dremel (completely un-necessary). And if the washer breaks while prying it off, just use the new one, or if you for some reason dont have one, then you can buy them at ACE for about $.20
Just look things over before trying to muscle it apart. It is a very easy job.
Spect2K3
01-28-2007, 10:16 PM
^^ awesome...that makes me feel confident!
Racersky
02-20-2007, 10:25 AM
dam makes me want a short shifter.
bash
02-20-2007, 03:00 PM
I used 2 1/4 inch flathead screw drivers to remove "that" washer. I heated one up to get between the plastic and the washer for a decent bite. I then worked the other flat head around once I had a little room. The washer just popped off. Took about 1-2 mins.
jiggadomino
02-22-2007, 11:37 PM
apparently the trd shifter reduces throws without reducing shift height. So if you reduce the height of the trd shifter, then that would reduce the throws even more righhht?
Possible to install twn short shifter?
TWM_Performance
02-23-2007, 10:14 PM
I used 2 1/4 inch flathead screw drivers to remove "that" washer. I heated one up to get between the plastic and the washer for a decent bite. I then worked the other flat head around once I had a little room. The washer just popped off. Took about 1-2 mins.
That's a really good idea, I hadn't thought of that. I usually just Dremel the clip to cut it and pry it off, but you'r solution must work very well too.
Thanks!
Kevin
TWM
jiggadomino
02-26-2007, 06:08 AM
thanks for ignoring a blackman
engifineer
02-26-2007, 12:19 PM
^^ ?? I hope you are joking
TougeTerror
02-26-2007, 02:54 PM
thanks for ignoring a blackman
Yeah, because twm is racist and he knew you were black by your avatar.
GROW UP! :loser:
TWM_Performance
02-26-2007, 06:40 PM
apparently the trd shifter reduces throws without reducing shift height. So if you reduce the height of the trd shifter, then that would reduce the throws even more righhht?
Possible to install twn short shifter?
Sorry for skipping over your question, I can assure that it was not intentional.
The TRD short shifter is similar in throw and height reduction to the TWM stage 1 tc short shifter (http://www.twmperformance.com/shortshifters/scionshortshifters/sciontcshortshifters.htm). If you reduced the height of the TRD by cutting it, then you would in turn reduce the linear throw of the shifter as well, but not the angular throw.
The TWM short shifters can be installed in to the TRD shift assembly as well.
If you are concerned that the TRD may not be aggressive enough in terms of height and throw reduction, you should check out the TWM stage 2 short shifter (http://www.twmperformance.com/shortshifters/scionshortshifters/sciontcshortshifters.htm).
I hope this helps.
Kevin
TWM
jiggadomino
02-26-2007, 11:56 PM
just playin brothas
thanks twm peformance for the ansah
makaveli510
03-30-2007, 04:12 AM
any write ups on how to install doc's s/s ultimate package???
how hard is it to do this from 1-10 if u dont really know anything?
Spect2K3
05-09-2007, 01:42 AM
i'd give it a 7.5 for the first time. 4.5-5 after that
Bozuzu
05-11-2007, 02:46 AM
damn this is a great thread, I just got my twm shifter in the mail today, looks a helluva lot nicer than the one in '04, Kevin must be moving up the food chain! Haha. I also got the sparco e-brake to match my sparco shift knob and the redline shift boot and ebrake boot, should be sick! I'll post picks on here when I'm done. . .
Spect2K3
05-13-2007, 02:29 AM
looking forward to those pix - sparco makes some nice stuff
abuzzl23pTC
06-14-2007, 05:17 AM
when i;m taking apart the center do you guys have any thing i should look out for because i have the cupholer lights i dont want to rip those out by accident
Solerusscion
08-03-2007, 04:27 AM
Just Did My install And Much props to KEVIN from TWM for hooking me up And supporting the us army and to all of you for your info that clip was cake with 2 flatheads THANKS ALL FOR THE GREAT I N F O
Importspeed
08-04-2007, 11:53 PM
quick question i think my washer that i was provided the hole is a bit small and everytime i try to tap it on the bolt starts to come back out what do i need to do for this to work thanks
TWM_Performance
08-06-2007, 04:30 PM
Just Did My install And Much props to KEVIN from TWM for hooking me up And supporting the us army and to all of you for your info that clip was cake with 2 flatheads THANKS ALL FOR THE GREAT I N F O
Thanks for the props!
Kevin
TWM
TWM_Performance
08-06-2007, 04:32 PM
quick question i think my washer that i was provided the hole is a bit small and everytime i try to tap it on the bolt starts to come back out what do i need to do for this to work thanks
I usually press from the driver's side with something hard (like the head of a hammer or something) to keep the pin in it's place while pushing the clip on with a socket from the other side.
I hope this helps,
Kevin
TWM
Importspeed
08-06-2007, 11:03 PM
thanks i took the whole unit and sit it sideways and proped the hammer on the bolt and well i went to the hardware store and bought another washer thanks and it is finally in and works good
CarlStooop
08-11-2007, 01:36 AM
I can't wait to buy the TWM stage 2 and use this... great directions dude
Pilmo
09-20-2007, 02:49 AM
is this the stage 2 TWN short shifter...?
SquallLHeart
09-20-2007, 07:00 PM
yes...
SoccerBoy_AP
10-23-2007, 02:50 AM
First off I must give major kudos for the write up!!!! :bow:
Just some things I learned from my install. I put in a Megan STS.
Use the dremel, I tried for about 30seconds to be a hero with a knife.... just make it easy and cut the thing off.
When it comes to prying off that cap right before you can remove the shifter, once you do some loosening there is some good leverage right in front on the left front or right front side. You can wedge a good lever in there (over top where the big pin was) and pop the cap off.
In the install of my Megan shifter I was given the replacement pin restraint, if your kit doesn't come with these, send it back
Also in my kit there were 4 new bolts, washers and pink/purple stand off pucks. Use them! Remove the very small metal stand offs and position in the new pucks. It keeps the shifter from being sunk halfway to the ground, while still lowering the throw distance.
Again.... awesome right up!!!
whiteTeaseC
11-09-2007, 09:00 PM
how wud one be able to remove the whole assembly to install the dr. isotope gearshifter? I check on his site and it only shows you how to install it after the shifter has been removed from the car.
aen
11-09-2007, 10:14 PM
there are four bolts/nuts/whatever that sit aruond the cage itself, remove that and remove the line under that and bababam.
i think. it's been like 2 years.
engifineer
11-09-2007, 11:32 PM
You have to remove the cables too, which can take a bit of wrestling sometimes. But really, you dont have to remove the cage. I seriously installed the gearswitcher (the inside parts, I did the cable bushings later on) in less than an hour, letting my 11 year old take a lot of the console apart along the way so he could help out.
For the washer, I think people are going straight to the dremel because they are trying to cut it with something else first. Take a smaller bladed standard screwdriver first and tap it behind the pushwasher. Once you have a gap, slide a larger one into that gap and pry. It will come right off, probably breaking it. If it does and the kit you buy doesnt come with one, Ace True Value has them that will work. They are a bit less stiff, but work just fine.
I spent more time getting the cap off than I did the washer, but that just takes figuring out where to put your two prying tools. It really isnt a bad job.
When you put on the cable bushings, go ahead and take off the intake tubing, it makes it much easier. I did it without removing it, but it only takes a few minutes to take it off and makes the cable much easier to get to.
whiteTeaseC
11-17-2007, 11:35 PM
You have to remove the cables too, which can take a bit of wrestling sometimes. But really, you dont have to remove the cage. I seriously installed the gearswitcher (the inside parts, I did the cable bushings later on) in less than an hour, letting my 11 year old take a lot of the console apart along the way so he could help out.
For the washer, I think people are going straight to the dremel because they are trying to cut it with something else first. Take a smaller bladed standard screwdriver first and tap it behind the pushwasher. Once you have a gap, slide a larger one into that gap and pry. It will come right off, probably breaking it. If it does and the kit you buy doesnt come with one, Ace True Value has them that will work. They are a bit less stiff, but work just fine.
I spent more time getting the cap off than I did the washer, but that just takes figuring out where to put your two prying tools. It really isnt a bad job.
When you put on the cable bushings, go ahead and take off the intake tubing, it makes it much easier. I did it without removing it, but it only takes a few minutes to take it off and makes the cable much easier to get to.
do you happen to know how to take the cables off? I need to take off the whole cage because i have a dremel but no extension cord to dremel inside of my car.
engifineer
11-18-2007, 12:58 AM
I think you just have to twist them and pop them out. But why do you need to dremel?
whiteTeaseC
11-18-2007, 02:32 AM
I think you just have to twist them and pop them out. But why do you need to dremel?
to dremel cut the washer
thispecialk
12-14-2007, 01:49 PM
omg this instruction was good untill i got to that damn washer u wasnt kidding about alot of cussing and yelling but yea my ____ looks like urs might even bee worst i used a screw driver plus hammer phew wat a horror. i bought a dremel and i bought that cutting tool it didnt fit the dremel frustrating lol so i hammered the dremel needle in there to have little leverage for the screw driver haha. o yea i even use a house nife and hammer broke that nife lol my fingers all cutt up itsd now 3am . im proud i accomplish it on my own without going to the dealer.
damn that washer to hell and those metal clips(pink dot on them) holding the lever in place ur pix didnt show those are they only in the 2008 model
so does the TMW short shifter actually reduce the throw of your shift? or does it just shorten the shifter itself. theres really no point in getting one if it only shortens the shifters length...
TWM_Performance
12-14-2007, 09:39 PM
so does the TMW short shifter actually reduce the throw of your shift? or does it just shorten the shifter itself. theres really no point in getting one if it only shortens the shifters length...
Hi yellowxhoodie,
The TWM Scion tC short shifter (http://www.twmperformance.com/shortshifters/scionshortshifters/sciontcshortshifters.htm) reduces shift knob height and re-positions the pivot point on the shifter so both the throw and shift knob height are reduced. It does not just shorten the shifter itself, it is a true short shifter with a greater length below the pivot point.
Thanks,
Kevin
TWM Performance
dannnnny29
12-18-2007, 09:37 PM
on the TWm website, you have the option of buying the shifter, or 3 special packages (they include a set of bronzoil shifter cable bushings, shifter base bushings). Why would I purchase the kit and not just she Stage 2 shifter? Won't the shifter work fine with the stock setup? Also, for the guys who have installed the Stage 2 shifter, are you sure it's not too short...isn't it uncomfortable, doesn't the armrest get in the way of the elbow?
thispecialk
12-18-2007, 11:51 PM
im 5'6 175 pnd short 17 inch guns fits me perfect u can still use armrest and shift
InfiniteVisi0n
01-06-2008, 12:37 AM
This is an install how-to for the TWM short shifter for the Scion tC.
First of all, I am NOT responsible for what you or this aftermarket part does to your car. Unless you are completely comfortable with tearing things apart and getting your hands dirty, DO NOT PROCEED.
* ALWAYS keep hardware (bolts, nuts, screws, anything) in a SAFE PLACE.
Tools you'll need:
- Screwdrivers, phillips and flathead
- Socket wrench and socket set
- Hammer
- Dremel
- Patience
Here is what you'll get from TWM. The shift lever, some replacement clips, a special tool for the installation, a few decals, and some absolutely worthless instructions:
Underneath, you'll find too bolts holding the rear section down. Use a 3/8 socket to unscrew them. They aren't very tight,
they almost felt as if they were finger-tight. Pull out the bolts and put them in a safe place.
Behind the shifter assembly, at the bottom of the shift lever, you'll find this clip holding the arm to the lever. Use your thumb or a tool to unfasten the clip. I found that I did not have to remove this completely, so i just pushed the little rods out of the way.
I'm getting frustrated again, thinking about this part. The instructions read that you should use a flathead screwdriver to pry the washer/clip off of the end of this rod. It's not that easy. My first recommendation would be to use Mikochu's dremel method, shown here:
Or, you could do what I did, and jimmy it out while swearing alot. I boogered up the assembly pretty bad, and the fact that I used a rusty screwdriver makes it look even worse. Alas, I did it. Just be prepared to scuff up your assembly if you go this route.
Next, use a punch, or screwdriver, to push this rod out of the lefthand side. I tapped it loose with a hammer, then tapped the handle of a screwdriver to slide it out. Slide the rod out and put it in a safe place. Then remove the leftmost part of the assembly from the smaller ball of the shift lever. Make note of the spring configuration. Try not to disturb it, but if you do, make sure to return it back to where it should be.
With some more scuffing, swearing, and prying, pop off the piece that holds the lever down in place. Leverage is nonexistant here, so be careful about how forceful you are.
Included is a special tool for snapping it off. TWM says you should place the lever in a vice, and this, and that, and yadda yadda yadda. But I found myself reverting back to Mikochu's wise methods, shown below.
Another victory. Make sure to grease up the lower ball on the lever with some lubricant. I found that the stock shifter was covered in enough goop to transfer to the new lever with my fingertips. This part is your call, though.
Pop the cap onto the bottom of the new lever. I did this by letting the cap stick to the lube on the ball joint, and giving it a quick jab at the pavement. I wouldn't use too much force though. Again, getting this done is your call.
After greasing up the ball joints, seat the lever in the stock assembly and replace the upper ring. The piece uses clips, so it will take some brute force to get it to snap back down. Once the upper plastic ring is in place, pull up on the lever to see if there is any play in the joint. If not, you're okay. Don't worry about how the ball joints connect yet.
Now, move that assembly on the lefthand side back into place. Make sure that the spring mechanism is in it's original position. The lefthand ball joint on the lever should be peeking through.
Use a hammer to lightly tap the rod back through it's original shaft. Once it's all the way, give it a few more taps to compress the spring a bit. The end of the rod should be sticking out of the other end.
I know, it looks really gross. This is what happens when you use a rusty screwdriver to monkey up your stock assembly. Again, I would recommend the dremel method. But anyway, place the new washer/clip provided by TWM around the end of the shaft. The teeth should be sticking out. Use a hammer and an oversized socket to work the washer/clip into place.
Next, reach under the assembly and seat the bottom of the lever in the arm harness. Pull the two-sided clip back over so it holds the plastic cup in place.
Replace the main console piece: Two screws under the AC controls and the two bolts in the storage compartment. Reconnect the pieces pointed out in the picture.
I would almost recommend this as a first upgrade. It really feels more like driving a sports coupe than a sedan after the new shifter is in. It takes a bit more effort to make the throws, but if you're on top of it, it's really fun.
Enjoy, and drive safely.
-John Very nice :) Im waiting for my TWM SS to come in so I can use your handy write up. However it stinks how I ordered the TWM SS two days before they had
their monster sale :doh:
TWM_Performance
01-07-2008, 02:52 PM
on the TWm website, you have the option of buying the shifter, or 3 special packages (they include a set of bronzoil shifter cable bushings, shifter base bushings). Why would I purchase the kit and not just she Stage 2 shifter? Won't the shifter work fine with the stock setup? Also, for the guys who have installed the Stage 2 shifter, are you sure it's not too short...isn't it uncomfortable, doesn't the armrest get in the way of the elbow?
Hi dannnnny29,
You are correct that the tc short shifter (http://www.twmperformance.com/shortshifters/scionshortshifters/sciontcshortshifters.htm) will work fine with the stock bushings. We offer the additional base bushings and cable bushings to further improve the shift feel and provide a more direct shift feel. The bushings kits replace the stock rubber base bushings and rubber cable bushings with aluminum (base bushings) and bronzoil (cable bushings) to remove play and flex from the shifter.
Thanks,
Kevin
TWM
InfiniteVisi0n
01-08-2008, 06:32 AM
omg this instruction was good untill i got to that damn washer u wasnt kidding about alot of cussing and yelling but yea my poop looks like urs might even bee worst i used a screw driver plus hammer phew wat a horror. i bought a dremel and i bought that cutting tool it didnt fit the dremel frustrating lol so i hammered the dremel needle in there to have little leverage for the screw driver haha. o yea i even use a house nife and hammer broke that nife lol my fingers all cutt up itsd now 3am . im proud i accomplish it on my own without going to the dealer.
damn that washer to hell and those metal clips(pink dot on them) holding the lever in place ur pix didnt show those are they only in the 2008 model
Yea true that, I just got done installing the TWM SS..the freaking washer was a pain in the butt. Everything went fine until I got to that damn evil thing. The Dremel did nothing but burn the washer into the plastic. I ended up just using a screwdriver and the back piece of a money wrench. I however did find out that if you use a thick enough screwdriver and hammer your way into the washer, the washer will come out easier than using that dangerous Dremel. But we as 2008 owners have it much worst then the previous models. Those two metal clips that held the center piece was another freakin problem to worry about but just another victory to gain if you could get them out.
engifineer
01-12-2008, 07:25 PM
I still cant see why people have so much trouble with the washer. A couple of screwdrivers and 30 seconds and walla... its off. No cutting, no cussing, etc. A dremel is probably the hardest way to remove it.
TWM_Performance
01-14-2008, 04:19 PM
Hey,
Yeah, some people have big problem with that famous little clip! :doh:
It's not a big deal, don't be shy to break it, we give 2 new ones in our short shifter kits! ;]
Have a good one guys!
Simon
TWM Performance
I still cant see why people have so much trouble with the washer. A couple of screwdrivers and 30 seconds and walla... its off. No cutting, no cussing, etc. A dremel is probably the hardest way to remove it.
BuDdY__Tc
01-16-2008, 05:38 AM
nicely done...my friend...well done...thanks you
CSUnited14
02-28-2008, 02:40 AM
that washer was very simple to dremel off dremel some to make it weak then put a screw driver right under it a tad tap with hammer and it brakes right off.....
Bozuzu
05-03-2008, 12:30 AM
I finally installed mine! I bought it almost a year ago and haven't had the time. I tried to sell it but all that thinking about it just forced me to take a few hours and do it. this write up was really helpful, but one question: the shifter came with two of those little star washers, I'm assuming one is for the clip everyone had problems with and one guy even used a dremel to remove (I didn't have this problem. . ?), but why are there 2? what's the other one for? I put it all back together and it seems to work great, which by the way I love it! but just making sure I'm not missing anything.
InfiniteVisi0n
05-03-2008, 10:28 AM
no idea what your talkin about, installed it awhile ago..however even though the SS was great at the beginning...im getting lots of play right now within the gears.
TWM_Performance
05-05-2008, 03:59 PM
I finally installed mine! I bought it almost a year ago and haven't had the time. I tried to sell it but all that thinking about it just forced me to take a few hours and do it. this write up was really helpful, but one question: the shifter came with two of those little star washers, I'm assuming one is for the clip everyone had problems with and one guy even used a dremel to remove (I didn't have this problem. . ?), but why are there 2? what's the other one for? I put it all back together and it seems to work great, which by the way I love it! but just making sure I'm not missing anything.
Hi,
Thanks for the review, and concerning the two clips, we give two of them with the Short Shifter (http://www.twmperformance.com/shortshifters/scionshortshifters/sciontcshortshifters.htm) just in case you break one during installation or if you ever need to remove the short shifter to put back the stock shifter.
Thanks,
Frank
TWM Performance
Bozuzu
05-06-2008, 01:28 AM
thanks frank, good to know. yeah the shifter is way awesome.
Rsantos112
05-24-2008, 12:27 AM
Do I need to disconnect the battery in order to do this install?
DaveXIX
05-25-2008, 06:55 PM
installed and feels awesome...
http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p316/DrDaveXIX/DSC01839.jpg
http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p316/DrDaveXIX/DSC01840.jpg
TWM_Performance
05-26-2008, 03:48 PM
Do I need to disconnect the battery in order to do this install?
Hi,
You do not need to disconnect the battery in order to install the short shifter!
Regards,
Frank
TWM Performance
beedee
09-09-2008, 07:33 PM
great write up! how long on average would you say it takes to do this? i have a meagan short shifter and want to do the install this weekend. also, for those of you who have the megan, where exactly do those purplish pucks go?
beedee
09-13-2008, 11:46 PM
i just installed my megan short throw shifter this morning using these instructions and they were pretty much flawless! once again, thanks for the great DIY!
neeker4
03-31-2009, 07:48 PM
Awesome write up. It helped me out tremendously when I went to install my short shifter. Took me about an hour and the most frustrating part was trying to get that little clip that holds the pin in place off. I ended up using a dremel like suggested and off it came like magic! I drove the car around a little and I am loving it! I'm sure I gained at least 50 -75 HPS from this mod alone! That was a joke, but it is much more fun to drive now. GO tC go!!!!
bigbird03
06-11-2009, 02:01 AM
Great write up! Helped me right thru it :)
Avodka14
08-29-2009, 11:22 PM
Can someone please tell my why I am having such a f****** time with this plastic clip that holds the shifter. Do I need to remove the entire shifter assembly or what? I have spent two f****** hours and still can not get this damn thing off. Yeah, use a flat head and it comes right off, yeah right! I have torn this thing all to hell and it will not come off. Ahhhh, that feels better! Doubt this installation is even freakin worth the trouble.
CSUnited14
08-30-2009, 01:52 AM
use a dremel dude... cut it off.. thats what i did and it took me 5 minutes to get off that clip
Avodka14
08-30-2009, 09:15 PM
I got it off with some help from a wise man who knows his stuff. I was talking about the plastic piece that is the last to come off before the shifter can be removed. I did not have too much trouble with the step that required a dremel. All and all I am happy with my stage 1 TWM which I thought would not give me enough and it has been very nice with the TRD knob performance wise and aesthetically.:icon_biggrin:
Cabana
10-06-2009, 04:12 PM
I installed my Stage 2 yesterday with these instructions and they helped so much, thanks! I had trouble with the washer, but used a variety of screwdrivers and a hammer to bend it...took about 10 minutes. The cup removal was a pain too, used the foot method and ended up bending the TWM tool to 90 degrees, lol, but it came off.
The whole install took about 2 hours.
TWM_Performance
10-06-2009, 04:30 PM
Great to hear that the install went smoothly, and thanks for the feedback!
Thanks,
Patrick
TWM Performance
I installed my Stage 2 yesterday with these instructions and they helped so much, thanks! I had trouble with the washer, but used a variety of screwdrivers and a hammer to bend it...took about 10 minutes. The cup removal was a pain too, used the foot method and ended up bending the TWM tool to 90 degrees, lol, but it came off.