Hello SLers,

After nearly three years of owning the tc, I have finally got around for a sound system buildup. My current audio setup consists of stock speakers, an avic-d3, and 120sq ft of e-dead v1se sound deadener. My speakers will be upgraded at a later time, for the time being I'm going to focus on a sub. I'm getting help building a fg box from a few local friends.

My goals:
-Build a form fitted fiberglass box that will tuck into the side of the hatch. (most likely sealed)
-Looking for more bass, not necessarily bone shattering, but I would like to 'feel' the bass.
-Looking for a 10' Sub as well as an amp.

As of right now, I'm looking into RE Audio subs, specifically the 10" SE series Dual 4ohm. I'm looking for an amp, but i'm not really sure what to look at. I'm leaning towards a Hifonics amp, but i'm not sure which one. I need some help from you guys. What do you guys suggest for running the RE sub?

Specs on the RE SE 10:
10"
Mounting Depth - 6"
Mounting Hole Diameter - 9.25"
Overall Diameter - 11"
Bolt Hole Circle - 10.125"
Motor Width - 6.25"
Motor Depth - 3.25"
Basket Depth - 2.75"
Displacement - 0.14 cu. ft.
Weight - 20 lbs.
Electrical Q Value -Qes: 0.46
Mechanical Q Value -Qms: 4.4
Total Speaker Q Value -Qts: 0.42
Free Air Resonance -Fs: 26.6 Hz
Equivalent Compliance -Vas: 31 liters
One-Way, Linear Excursion -Xmax: 18 mm
Efficiency -SPL 1W/1m: 83.2 dB SPL
Effective Piston Area -Sd: 310 cm^2
DC Resistance -Re: 2.8 ohm
Nominal Impedance -Znom: Dual 2/4 ohm
Thermal Power Handling -Pe: 600 W
Force Factor -Bl: 17.7

I can find it for about $150. What do you guys thing about the sub? suggestions for an amp?

 

the RE is a great sub, but bad choice in amps. don't buy hifonics. there is much better out there.

 

yea re makes great subs...hifonics amp will not work though they tend to be horrible and owners end up blowing them or not getting full power. i might be selling my set up to re do them but i have 2 12". FYI if you dont know how to fiberglass its very frustrating at first and does take quite a while to finish the project unless you work on it 8 hours a day for a week or 2

 

http://www.gadrivers.net/~dwicker/fiberglass.html

this is the best tutorial I've seen yet. And to echo everyone else, stay far away from HiFonics.

 

What do you guys suggest for an amp?

 

if you get the dual 4 ohm version, then a kicker zx750.1 will do the job very nicely.

 

check out fi car audio as well, the btl series should work for you. i dont know about the re, but i know the fi needs a proper amp to run well. i am (was) running a fi Q with a jl 1000.1, fried a voice coil and just sent it in to be reconed today. sounds nice at low volumes and gets really loud as well. im only running 1 12 in a sealed box

 

Why would you recommend a BTL?? He wanted an RE SE, which is almost equivalent to the FI SSD. The BTL is not MUSICAL at all, its an all out SPL sub. I had the 15" BL at one time or another and that was a SQL sub but more emphasis with SPL, couldn't do what my RE SX so for music. The FI Q is a very good SQ sub with some umph to it for SQL.

 

yea, the btl is nothing like the RE SE. supposedly the SE can sound very good. the only thing i don't like about them is the sensitivity spec, it's quite low so it'll need a good bit of power to get going.

 

hell if you going with the RE... why not pair it up with the cousin company... US amps... they are damn near bullet proof.. and the merlin series is reasonable in price...

 

Thanks tweetertc, I game US Amps a look, they look pretty good.

What do you guys thing about the MD-1D from US Amps?
400x1 @ 4ohm
750x1 @ 2ohm
1200x1 @ 1 ohm

Efficiency
86% @ 4ohm
84% @ 2ohm
76% @ 1ohm

Low-Pass 40-250hz, 24dB octave, Butterworth
Variable Bass EQ 30 dB boost at 45hz
Subsonic filter 15-40Hz 24/dB octave
Frequency Response 20-250Hz +/- 1 dB

http://www.usamps.com/md_amps.html

Do you guys that is enough to power the SE 10 D4? Would wiring the D4 subs in a 2 ohm load be the best option?

 

What you do is get the RE SE in dual 2ohm and get the Sundown SAE-1000 amp
http://www.db-r.com/sell/store/index.php?productID=147

 

Would the SE10 D4 or D2 be a better? I'm not actually clear how differently the two are.

 

because im an idiot. lol. i was thinking ssd and wrote btl.

but yes, i meant ssd. we are about to replace the alpine type-r 12s in my roommates boat with SSDs.

 

No difference in ohms, except for versatility for difference amps and setup.

 

1 dual 4 would be wired to 2 ohms

1 dual 2 would be wired to 1 ohm.

it just gives you options when either buying the sub or amp first.

here are your two common cases:

if you already have the sub but need an amp, you'd have to factor in what impedance the sub is when deciding on an amp.

if you already have the amp, then you'd get the coil configuration thats lets you get the most power out of the amp(within it's normal rated limits of course).

if starting from scratch and buying both at the same time just pick whatever works together. all amps are only stable down to a certain impedance. it can get kind of complicated. say you got a sub with a single 4 ohm coil, then you might as well get a normal 2 channel class a/b and bridge it because most mono amps don't make much power at 4ohms(with the exception of a few amps with regulated power supplies that make pretty much the same power at all ohm loads).

 

Tcguy85,

The SE10 can handle 600w. The US Amp MD-1D produces 750x1 @ 2ohm. If I purchase the dual 4 version, and wire it to to 2ohm into the amp, would that be too much power?

 

Get the RE SE dual 2ohm, and get the Sundown SAE-1000, and call it a day. Don't worry about RMS, play it right and you can throw 10x the recommended power to it.

 

nope, a speaker (more specifically the coil) will be more likely to get hurt when using to small of an amp, rather than to big of an amp. clean power > clipped power.

 

interesting. makes me wonder if thats why my voice coil fried, the person that had it before me was only running 600w to it....