Since gas is so expensive, I made this DIY for you guys to save money! :D


Disclaimer:
First of all I am not responsible if you break your own car. This is simply a guide to help you along your install.

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f283/3lement4E/DIY%20Brake%20pads/IMG_0412.jpg
http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f283/3lement4E/DIY%20Brake%20pads/IMG_0425.jpg
Tools/materials:
-6" C-clamp
- 14mm Socket wrench
-Breaker bar to break lugs nuts loose
-And New pads DUH!

1) Once you have your front rims off, grab your 14mm socket and completely take off the top bolt.

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f283/3lement4E/DIY%20Brake%20pads/IMG_0411.jpg

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f283/3lement4E/DIY%20Brake%20pads/IMG_0414.jpg

2) Swing the inner caliper away from the rotor.

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f283/3lement4E/DIY%20Brake%20pads/IMG_0415.jpg

3)Note the positions of the pads and gently remove them.

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f283/3lement4E/DIY%20Brake%20pads/IMG_0416.jpg

4)Remove the two metal plates and clip off of the old pads.

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f283/3lement4E/DIY%20Brake%20pads/IMG_0417.jpg

5) Before reinstalling the metal pieces and clip. You want to add some grease on the BACK of the NEW pads.

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f283/3lement4E/DIY%20Brake%20pads/IMG_0418.jpg

6) Reinstall the metal pieces.

7) Repeat steps of second pad. (2 pads per rotor)

8 ) Grab you C-clamp and slowly turn the Brake piston back in. (1 turn every 10-15 secs. You want the piston to sit back flush. Afterwards you can now remove the C-clamp

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f283/3lement4E/DIY%20Brake%20pads/IMG_0420.jpg

Note: You might notice a bit of brake fluid oozing out on top in your engine bay. Nothing to worry about just get a rag and wipe it off.

9) swing the inner caliper back in and HAND tighten the 14mm bolt back on.

10) Repeat for other side.

11) Start the car and check the brake fluid level. It should still be full. If not add some brake fluid.

12)Follow the bedding/brake-in process as outlined by the manufacturer of the pads and/or avoid hard braking for the first 100 miles


13) Your done and you just saved yourself a $100 at least by doing it yourself!


Comparison New vs. Old:

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f283/3lement4E/DIY%20Brake%20pads/IMG_0413.jpg


enJoy!
-Alan

very nice DIY!!!

Thanks,

theres already a good DIY on here w/o pics, this one is for the visual learners :wink:

Note: You might notice a bit of brake fluid oozing out on top in your engine bay. Nothing to worry about just get a rag and wipe it off.
Actually my dear buddy, brake fluid is probably the most detrimental fluid that's part of your car that can destroy paint.

Also, when compressing the piston.. GO SLOWLY! not only will it prevent your fluid reservoir from overflowing, but also can help preventing issues with your ABS if you really go fast.

THANK YOU!

Note: You might notice a bit of brake fluid oozing out on top in your engine bay. Nothing to worry about just get a rag and wipe it off.
Actually my dear buddy, brake fluid is probably the most detrimental fluid that's part of your car that can destroy paint.

Also, when compressing the piston.. GO SLOWLY! not only will it prevent your fluid reservoir from overflowing, but also can help preventing issues with your ABS if you really go fast.

I said u might

and i said, to "prevent"

should i add "... from ever happening"?

ok buddy!

finally i found a DIY and now i know that all i need is a clamp, well here goes my weekend project. :P hopefully all goes well. :pray:

Buy one at home depot and return it afterwards. Customers do it all the time. haha

Thanks!! :bow:

Buy one at home depot and return it afterwards. Customers do it all the time. haha :rofl: yeah it's true about returning it. :P

man one of my brake make noise ...
i dont know if its my brake pads or somethin else wrong ...

good write up

man one of my brake make noise ...
i dont know if its my brake pads or somethin else wrong ...

good write upmine used to do that until a friend took them out and put some of that break noise lube and it took the noise away for about 2-3 weeks and then it returned. but now i got some Axxis deluxe pads that have i hope they remove the squeeking noise for good. :pray:

i went to firestone and they told me to change my one of the brake disk but still makin noise ...

well, they said that maybe because of painted caliper ... ?

i went to some other place and they told me to resurface the rotors and when my friend put some of that brake squeek lubricant the noise went away for a while.

i went to firestone and they told me to change my one of the brake disk but still makin noise ...

well, they said that maybe because of painted caliper ... ?

painted calipers are not the cause haha :rofl:

Also, when compressing the piston.. GO SLOWLY! not only will it prevent your fluid reservoir from overflowing, but also can help preventing issues with your ABS if you really go fast.

One thing you can also do is use an old turkey baster (those big droppers) to take out some (not too much tho) of the brake fluid in the reservoir to avoid spilling out when you compress the piston/s.
As you know, everytime we take our cars to service, they usually check & top off the fluids such as the brake fluid. It's routine maintenance. As time goes on, more and more fluid gets added up, so there is a risk of overspill esp. if you change the pads (i.e. compress the brake pistons) on all four wheels at the same time.

good write up!!!

Also, when compressing the piston.. GO SLOWLY! not only will it prevent your fluid reservoir from overflowing, but also can help preventing issues with your ABS if you really go fast.

One thing you can also do is use an old turkey baster (those big droppers) to take out some (not too much tho) of the brake fluid in the reservoir to avoid spilling out when you compress the piston/s.
As you know, everytime we take our cars to service, they usually check & top off the fluids such as the brake fluid. It's routine maintenance. As time goes on, more and more fluid gets added up, so there is a risk of overspill esp. if you change the pads (i.e. compress the brake pistons) on all four wheels at the same time.
I have yet to really see any service person top off the brake fluid reservoir. I have friends that do service and have seen other service people do routine maintenance.

that little tank doesn't get touched unless absolutely necessary and brake work is actually needed.

you shouldn't need to add any fluid at all. if the reservoir is low.. the VERY FIRST THING that anyone competent should do is to check the brake pads. if they are really, truly, indeed ok and recently replaced (still looking new).. then perhaps you should add a little brake fluid.

(which the only thing i can possibly think of to cause such a thing, is from someone servicing the brake system improperly and they caused brake fluid to be lost in the first place)

another good way to get the piston to get down is to put the inside brake pad back in the caliper and use the c-clamp or a big set of vice grips (locking plyers) to hold down to push the piston back in, make sure you do it slowly tho, like mentioned before.

yea.. i usually use some big vice grips. :P

:)

very nice DIY.

thx!!!

Dont push the piston back in by directly contacing it with the C Clamp like that, instead take one of the old brake pads and put it in front of the piston and compress it back like that.

Nice write up! nice xsi as well!haha

Thanks Buddy! :wink:

hey so really... you should actually loosen the bleeder valve from behind when pushing the piston back in. i heard you could damage ur ABS pump if you do it the other way... personally i just do wht every1 else does,

hey so really... you should actually loosen the bleeder valve from behind when pushing the piston back in. i heard you could damage ur ABS pump if you do it the other way... personally i just do wht every1 else does,

nice, ill need this soon!

if your getting noise it's from lack of brake paste or using old clips/backing plate. that autozone brake paste is crap..

also, you ahould perform a brake fluid service every 2yrs. brake fluid is extremly hydroscopic.

another thing,, we have floating calipers, lube the guide pins.

another thing, don't not open the bleeder to do a pad/rotor service, usless you have a PRESSURIZED bleeder hooked up or plan on doing a brake fluid service. you will get air in the lines,,, (remember we are surrounded by 14:7psi of air pressure) the abs pump will by fine.

this is coming from a certfied tech ;)

^ good info there thanks

question. I only have a 3 inch c clamp. Is that good enough or should i get a 6 inch c clam?

go to kragen and buy the tool for 8 bucks...

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?MfrCode=PBI&MfrPartNumber=648412&CategoryCode=3479

question. I only have a 3 inch c clamp. Is that good enough or should i get a 6 inch c clam?i was in that situation and just bought the 6 inch to be on the safe side, plus it's handy for other projects. :P

good write-up, my neighbor walked me through it last time - feel confident enough to do it myself next time - it's pretty simple.

I'm about to order some brake pads of sparks. The grease I could pick up at any auto shop right? Is it called anything in particular or does anyone recommend a specific grease?

its called stop squeak or something...

hey i thought this was in tech section?

Nice DIY! I'll be using this soon. Thanks. :clap:

I just did my front brakes thanks to this thread. Big Thanks!

Are doing the back brakes similar to the fronts? This should be sticky-ed too by the way.

there is another DIY with pics specifically for the back brakes

Great DIY pics,

i just replace front and rear brake pads.
I believe i did it right. But something worries me.

i know there is a piston push the pads to stop.
But how does the pads unstick to the rotor when i let of of brake pedal??
can someone shine some light on this? Sorry if i T/J

appreciate the pics

My guess would be the spinning rotor "bounces" the pads off when the calipers aren't squeezing down. The pads aren't going to want to stay on a moving surface if it can be elsewhere in the housing. Or magic elves pull those pads back when you're not looking like the ones that turn off the refrigerator light when the doors close.

This is a great DIY thanks! I installed my brakes without any problems. I didn't have a breaker bar, but jumping on the tire iron for a bit loosened up my lugs juuust fine :P

np glad you saved a "few" bucks :P

-yeah im going to do my brakes soon, starting to squel like a pig-

-how much were OEM pads-

they costs ~$50 before tax

im not sure I get a discounted price. :D

oh man hook ups are sick

no worries some where around like 60-80 bucks huh give or take.

-ok so i know you use the 14mm on the top bolt, but what is the size of the nut that it screws into? cuz last time i just used some pliers, not the best way but it worked. needless to say my pads still look good at 45k (i find this wierd)?

bringing this thread back. my tC has about 33k miles and the fronts need a change, the rears still have life. i ordered front and rear OEM pads from TRDSparks.com for about $90 shipped. damn good price if you ask me. local Toyota dealership quoted my $249 for the fronts, $249 for the rears, labor and pads only. pretty crazy, ill be doing this myself!

just did the front myself, no need to spend the money if you have the tools. if not, rent them. seriously this brake job is cake! took me 30mins, thats with jacking up the car and removing the wheels. next week ill get to the rears, but i desperately needed to do the fronts. no fluid needed to be added nor did any come out. thanks for this DIY and saving $250+.

np Yanki!

Doing mine tomorrow... one quick question i got the EBC green stuff and they came with anti Squeal shims.. do those replace the stock ones or they go on top of the stock shim/bracket?? shed some light for me please.. and elves dont like lights

Wow how easy was this! I took my time and I was finished in an hour.

I hope the back ones are as easy as the front cause I noticed they are wearing thin as well. I guess once I see the brake fluid low again, it will be time to change them.

In reference to the above poster, I would assume those shims replace the top piece of metal once you take the pads off. Once you take the pads off, you will notice the position of the clips on the shims, and where they should go.

Good luck!

Yea i did my fronts are rear.. I used the existing metal brackets... Seems to done zero harm... I have a Small hint of squeal SMALL! lol but they are still being broken in and i did NOT turn the rotors. But that's causing the squealing I'm sure.

Overall I went with the EBC greenStuff I love them.. There basically grabbing as soon as i touch the petal which i love. This DIY was top NOTCH..

One thing though when i did my brakes i took the inner Part all the way off Consist of one more bolt on the bottom. The EBC's where thicker i needed the room.

I was considering doing this as well, but my squeezed in. I also noticed a grinding when I make a right and left hand turns. Maybe it is just the bigger pads and the car has to get used to. I am sure they have to be worked in, but it is barely noticeable.

can anyone explain to me how the brake system works? I have been wondering this since no one was able to give me a direct answer but only assumptions. Do both the front and back brakes lock on when you stop or somewhere along the lines of 60/40. For example the front brakes lock first, then the back brakes come on afterward. I always thought the front brakes were the only brakes that worked but recently I have been seeing plenty of owners swapping out their rear pads. On top of that, I know that AWD cars use the 60/40 ratio but is it the same for our car?

when you replace he brake pads for the first time do you have to get the rotors turned or re-surfaced???

when you replace he brake pads for the first time do you have to get the rotors turned or re-surfaced???
Not necessarily. You'd have to use your judgement on that I think. If you notice a lot of pitting or grooving - you might want to. If they seem pretty smooth overall - skip it. Just be sure to follow proper bed-in instructions for your pads.

Not necessarily. You'd have to use your judgement on that I think. If you notice a lot of pitting or grooving - you might want to. If they seem pretty smooth overall - skip it. Just be sure to follow proper bed-in instructions for your pads.

Is there a method to bed-in your brakes? I know I read somewhere that you should do it when there is little traffic(usually in the early morning) and that you have to go around 60mph and stop abruptly.

Anyone know the actual method?

The manufacturer's actually have varying recommendations on this. Here is a list of the most common names and their procedures:

http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/tech/techpage.jsp?techid=85

One of the key things here is that you do NOT come to a COMPLETE stop while bedding these in. Generally it is a few hard braking stints from 50-5mph or 60-10 or something like that. But definitely read through those above and you'll get a good idea.

someone drove my tc on ebrake for a few miles...might need to do this

awesome

-can't wait to do this tommorow! again-

if your getting noise it's from lack of brake paste or using old clips/backing plate. that autozone brake paste is crap..

also, you ahould perform a brake fluid service every 2yrs. brake fluid is extremly hydroscopic.

another thing,, we have floating calipers, lube the guide pins.

another thing, don't not open the bleeder to do a pad/rotor service, usless you have a PRESSURIZED bleeder hooked up or plan on doing a brake fluid service. you will get air in the lines,,, (remember we are surrounded by 14:7psi of air pressure) the abs pump will by fine.

this is coming from a certfied tech ;)

As malloy points out, this write-up ain't detailed. Step one is to safely lift the wheel ... blocks, ramps, whatevr backup keeps the car from falling on any1 while it's worked on. When done replacing brakes, start the car, pump the pedal a few times before driving, and stop soon to check the fluid. Drive slowly and carefully at first, in case the brakes are messed up.

With floating calipers, it is important to (clean, replace or) at least grease both pins. It is ill advised to touch the rotor with your bare hands, because any grease/oils can create stopping issues. Lastly, most good brake kits come with new backing plates, and anti-squeak; which is not grease. I have had best results from the spray on stuff, to quiet noise; and wiping up dust helps, too.

Re. what Domo said about f/r balance- Brakes have a check valve that typically varies the amount of pressure/force applied between front and rear. Not sure 100% if this is true for tC 'cause they actually have separate master cylinders. A manually adjustable system is often installed/used by racers.

As mentioned, it is a good idea to remove some brake fluid from the resevoir before pressing the piston, due to its very corrosive nature to paint. Brakes can gather water (and dust) over time, and it's a good idea to bleed/replace fluid; to get out any dirt, air or water. Kits are easy to find (even make). Make sure your at the right level before you call it a day.

A ghetto way of changing much of the fluid is to use a syringe/baster to pull out as much as possible from the resevoir, but not all the way so as to introduce air in. It's important to not touch the pedal during this and dispose of used fluid with a recycling facility! You can't expect to get it all clean, you get what you pay for.

ReticulatingPigeon- driving with the e-brake won't ruin your rears. the e-brake is an inner drum-style, that's separate from the disc setup. Your e-brake may be worn tho'

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f283/3lement4E/DIY%20Brake%20pads/IMG_0417.jpg

my pad platess are all rusted into pieces. Where can i get those plates? i don't remember if new pads come with them.

i would get the factory ones. its called a shim kit. comes with all the shims and screechers for the pads. don't know the part number off the top of my head

i saw these pads on advance auto part's site. it said they come with shim.
Does that mean i don't need the stock ones?
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-0TpBqlig8ko/TgedyAtH3YI/AAAAAAAAB90/n1LgCSazNNM/s800/brake.jpg

i found a extra set of new Akebono pads for my dad's Camry. They have shim on them. So i don't think i will need to buy new factory shims.
Thanks again TC-Guy

(we have floating calipers, lube the guide pins.)
(With floating calipers, it is important to (clean, replace or) at least grease both pins.)

Anyone have a picture of the guide pins? and what type of grease.

I replaced the pads already. I should have read all the post before I put everything back together.

It was easy enough with this tutorial that I want to take it apart to grease the pins.

Thanks for the help. Saved me $$.

Thanks for the write-up just did this myself, saved me a couple bucks :-D..

Referred to this thread more than once. Thanks. I think I got it now.