I did this a few days ago, but I didn't have the time to write it all up until now. For all you people who are sick of the amber lighting, read on:

Gauge Cluster

1) Remove the stock trim housing. First, move the steering wheel all the way down and move the turn indicator and headlight stalks all the way down. Pry along the bottom edge of the trim until it begins to separate. Once you can get a hold of it, pry along until it comes off.

2) There is one Philips head screw on the top of the cluster, take a screwdriver and remove it. Place the screw somewhere where you won't lose it.

3) The gauge cluster is now held in by two latch mechanisms on the sides. There is no easy way to pry them out. I found that after some time prying, it will eventually come out. Be sure you are removing the whole cluster and not just the plastic exterior.

4) Once out, remove the wire harness from the connection on the top left of the gauge. The cluster is now out.

5) Take the gauge cluster to a nice, clean work area. This is going to get fun.

6) First take off the black bezel. You can keep the clear plastic attached to the black bezel and remove the whole thing as one unit. Press in a few plastic tabs and it will come apart.

http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/illuminationchange_tc/01s.jpg (http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/illuminationchange_tc/01.jpg)

7) Mark the area where your gas and temp needles end softly with a pencil to aid putting them back on. The speedometer and tachometer have built in bump stops so that it is easy to find the exact postion to put them back on. You want to put on the needle so the bump stop is just slightly below 0.

8) Remove your gauge needles. Easiest way to do it is to grab two spoons and two pieces of paper towel. Place the two pieces of paper towel down on the gauge to protect it. Then place the head of the spoons on opposite ends of the base of the needle and gently pry upwards. The needles will come off. Gently pry off the gauge faces as well.

http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/illuminationchange_tc/02s.jpg (http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/illuminationchange_tc/02.jpg)

9) Once you have the needles off, you want to take off the LCD panel in the gauge cluster. I used a small flat head screw driver to gently pry it off. Keep on moving the screw driver around the LCD to prevent bending the pins.

http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/illuminationchange_tc/03s.jpg (http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/illuminationchange_tc/03.jpg)

http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/illuminationchange_tc/04s.jpg (http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/illuminationchange_tc/04.jpg)


10) Remove the white plastic base of the gauge cluster by pressing some more tabs. Remove the PCB from the plastic base.

http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/illuminationchange_tc/05s.jpg (http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/illuminationchange_tc/05.jpg)

11) Now is the time to desolder the LEDs on the board. My technique is as follows: use a low wattage soldering iron to heat one side of the LED until the solder begins to melt. Quickly use the tip of your soldering iron to flip the LED towards the soldered point. The leads on the LED will bend back. With the LED half up in the air, desolder the other lead. Use a pair of tweezers to quickly grab the LED before the solder solidifies again.

12) If you just want to change the illumination of the gauge cluster, you will have to change 14 LEDs. 2 for the gas gauge, 2 for the temperature gauge, 5 for the speedometer, 2 for the LCD panel, and 3 for the tachometer. The LEDs are PLCC2 sized. You can find them at any electronics supply house. I personally bought mine from www.mouser.com. Look for LEDs that have a luminous flux (brightness) of more than 100 mcd. Otherwise, your gauge cluster will look dim.

13) Solder in the new LEDs paying close attention to orientation. LEDs are dependent on orientation so if you flip one around, it won't work. Use the cutout tab as a visual indication of polarity. There should be enough solder left on the pads to make a connection. If not, you can use some solder to add onto the LED after the intial connection to make a more solid joint. I found that even a little bit of solder on the pad can make the LEDs stick. You can use additional solder to build up the connection.

14) Go back down to your car and plug the board back in. Make sure that all lights are properly lit up. If not, be sure that all LEDs face the right direction and are properly soldered in. If one LED is out, then that particular circuit may also affect other nearby LEDs.

http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/illuminationchange_tc/06s.jpg (http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/illuminationchange_tc/06.jpg)

15) If they all look okay, reassembly you gauge cluster. Pay careful attention to needle reinstallation. If you don't put them on all the way, the gauge won't be as responsive. The base of the needle should be nearly flush against the gauge face. Make sure the bump stops are stopping at slightly below zero. Erase the pencil marks you made on the temp and gas gauges.

16) Install your cluster back into your car and enjoy your work.

http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/illuminationchange_tc/07s.jpg (http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/illuminationchange_tc/07.jpg)

http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/illuminationchange_tc/08s.jpg (http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/illuminationchange_tc/08.jpg)

Excuse the pictures, my camera sucks at night. The gauges turned out red, not pink like in the pictures.


Center Console:

1) Remove the shift knob by unscrewing it.

2) Remove the plastic base around the shift knob by gently prying on it from the edges near the seat. The plastic will eventually come out. Watch out for the cigarette lighter wire, don't yank it out.

3) Remove the center console by prying along the edges. Remember to keep your radio door closed before you do this. The whole console should come out easily. Remove the harness to the HVAC computer. Take the console to your work area.

4) Remove the HVAC knob in the center of the console. The outer metal part can be removed by using a flat head screwdriver to push in 3 tabs along the side of the knob. Once the tabs are pushed in, you can remove the metal knob. There is a clear plastic knob that is beneath the outer metal knob cover. You can use a plier wrapped in cloth to remove this clear plastic knob. Beneath this is a nut and washer. I believe the nut is 11mm. Use a socket to remove the nut. Remember to save the nut and washer in a safe place.

5) Flip over the console to remove the six screws. Four along the edge and two in the center. There may be a few tabs retaining the HVAC computer to the console. The computer assembly will push right out.

http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/illuminationchange_tc/09s.jpg (http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/illuminationchange_tc/09.jpg)

6) There are a few tabs holding the HVAC computer together, push them to loosen. After that, the plastic case should separate easily.

http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/illuminationchange_tc/10s.jpg (http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/illuminationchange_tc/10.jpg)

7) Remove the small Philips head screws holding the PCB against the case. There are two screws that hold the white housing that surrounds the LCD. You can ignore those for now.

8) The PCB should now be free. Removing and installing the LEDs is the same procedure for the gauge cluster. If you just want to replace the button and LCD illumination, there will be 12 LEDs to be replaced. This does not count the emergency flasher LED, the seatbelt indicator LED, the engine immobilizer LED, or the yellow LEDs indicating that AC / recirculation / defrosters are on. I decided to leave those as is. Also, the LEDs in the center of the knob I left alone. I like how the light changes from blue to amber to red when you use the knob.

http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/illuminationchange_tc/11s.jpg (http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/illuminationchange_tc/11.jpg)

9) We will now desolder the LCD panel. THE LCD PANEL ON THE CONSOLE IS NOT SOCKETED LIKE IT IS ON THE GAUGE CLUSTER. I learned this the hard way and cracked my LCD screen. If you screw this up, you will have to purchase a whole other HVAC computer as the LCD is not sold individually as a repair part. If you can find a replacement computer for cheap, please let me know. Anyway, here is the procedure for removing the LCD panel:

First, use desoldering braid to reheat and suck up the solder along the leads of the LCD on the back of the PCB. You'll know you're done when you can see holes around the leads of the LCD on the circuit board.

Second, remove the two screws holding in the white plastic surround.

Third, *gently* pry up on the LCD by lifting the white surround away from the board. You may have to heat up the leads of the LCD on the underside of the circuit board to finally free them from any residual solder.

10) Once done, you can remove and install the three LEDs on beneath the LCD panel.

11) Hook your board back up to the car to make sure all the LEDs works.

http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/illuminationchange_tc/12s.jpg (http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/illuminationchange_tc/12.jpg)

http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/illuminationchange_tc/13s.jpg (http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/illuminationchange_tc/13.jpg)

12) Go bring the board back to your workplace. Place the plastic housing back down on the board and screw it back in. Insert your LCD panel back in and carefully solder the LCD leads through the holes on the PCB. Go back to your car and plug it back in to make sure the LCD works.

http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/illuminationchange_tc/14s.jpg (http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/illuminationchange_tc/14.jpg)

(I drew ^____^ on a piece of paper to take the place of my cracked LCD. haha, no use soldering back on a cracked LCD. I am going to solder on a 1x16 socket just so I can use my partially cracked LCD while I wait for a replacement without having to worry about desoldering and soldering again.)

13) Once finished, reinstallation is the reversal of removal.


Center Console Storage Area

There is an incandescent bulb used to illuminate the storage area. It is possible to change that bulb with an LED. However, instead of soldering a bulb directly to the wire, you can install a replacement LED that has a wedge base and resistor to fit into the stock location. No soldering required. I bought my replacement bulb from www.autolumination.com. It is a #74 LED replacment bulb found under "Instrument Panel & Gauge Bulbs." The only problem I noticed is that I can't dim the bulb with the dimmer in the gauge cluster. It seems to work all or nothing.

Here is how you can replace the #74 bulb:

1) Remove the shift knob and plastic base surrounding the shift knob.

2) Remove the center console.

3) Reach behind the center console and find the grey wire leading to the bulb in the storage compartment. If you pull back on the wire as it enters the storage compartment it will detach from the storage compartment.

4) Remove the incandescent bulb with your fingers.

5) Drop in the replacment LED bulb and reattach the wire to the storage compartment.

6) Reinstall center console and shifter base along with the knob.

http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/illuminationchange_tc/15s.jpg (http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/illuminationchange_tc/15.jpg)

Phew, all done. You now have your choice of night time illumination.

That is an amazing how-to. The lights all look great. Good job, man.

Nice write up. Best I've seen so far.

That's a great write up... Now I need to work up the balls to do it. I do have soldering/electronics experience though (from school). I redid all the electronics in my guitar a year or so ago (installed new pickups, potentiometers, output jack) and I surprisingly did a very good job.

I solder all day, every day. Well maybe not that much but I do a ____LOAD of surface mount soldering. I might do this (cuz I can probably squeeze some free LED's out of work).

You changed from the Amber color to Red in this I see. Correct? Looks nice.

Are they surface mount LED's or Through Hole? And what package are they? If theyre SMD are they 0805?

I added it to the Tech section. It will be in the FAQ forum soon.

Great job, panasoanic! Although, I do recommend that only those who are confident in soldering on a PCB try this modification. You hear that, Kaeon? :lol: Also, like panasoanic said, use a low wattage soldering iron. Be responsible with your actions. Scion Life, panasoanic, nor I will be held responsible for any problems that may occur.

Thats an awsome mod/write up! I was wondering how to do that, not that I would ever get the balls to do it, but thats still so hot. Good job man.

I'm having trouble trying to identify the LED's for this application. What are the measurements? Model number? I'm trying to find blue ones.

I'm having trouble trying to identify the LED's for this application. What are the measurements? Model number? I'm trying to find blue ones.

I'm having trouble trying to identify the LED's for this application. What are the measurements? Model number? I'm trying to find blue ones.

Exactly what he said. I am also looking to do this wit a dark/deep blue color led. If you know a size/model number or anything. Greatly be appreciated.. thanx

VERY nice writeup, but I dont have the "kahonees" (sic) to perform all that tiny work.

lets just pray SCion changes the guage cluster color someday., orange SUX

Nice. Thanks for taking the time to write that up.

TimO of ClubtC wrote...
This is the info on the LED's. Youve gotta get them at Digikey.com ...

Blue LED's are...

Description: LED BLUE CLEAR 1206 REV MT SMD
Product Number: 160-1454-1-ND

And in case you want red ones, those are...

Description: LED RED CLEAR 1206 REAR MNT SMD
Product Number: 160-1186-ND

The blue ones are way more expensive than the red. The blue ones are about 1.68 each I believe. I ordered 40 total for both the center console and the gauges, that gives me 2 extra in case I messed up or lost one (which I did, I dropped it and couldnt find it cause it was so damn tiny)

When you get the LED's theyve got to be put on a certain way. Next to each LED on the circut board is an arrow pointing a certian way. And on the back of the new LED is also a little green arrow... well ... somewhat of an arrow. Youll get it if youve got common sense lol. Youve got to match the 'arrows' up so they both point the same way. Do one LED then go plug it in to the car and see if it lights up, if it doesnt, desolder it and see if you did the arrows correctly. If not, turn it around and solder it agian. Youve got to make sure that they arent just soldered down to the board, but also soldered on top of the little tab from the LED or they wont line up.

These LED's from Digikey are about 1/3rd the size of the stock LED's... they are EXTREMELY SMALL. So take your time and be careful. Dont get frustrated. And know that whatever you do can always be fixed

Looks like I've gotta new project on hand :D

hehe, if he thought 1206's are small, he should try 0805 or 0603's which are the ones needed to swap the green LED's with amber ones in my Navi system. Hint of advice to anyone who wants to attempt this, get fine point tweezers to manipulate the leds around the board for soldering. It'll get the job done faster and you're sweaty palms and fingers don't have to leave residue all over your PCB.

I've soldered mod chips to PS2's and such its not that hard. The only experience in soldering I have is some in college (I am a ME and it was an ME, intro to EE class) and my PS2 along with my friends. If you have a steady hand and a soldering iron with a variable temperature guage its quite easy. The smaller the tip / pointier makes it a lot easy. Hoping to do this with blue lights.

anybody wanna be paid to do that for me?

I've soldered mod chips to PS2's and such its not that hard. The only experience in soldering I have is some in college (I am a ME and it was an ME, intro to EE class) and my PS2 along with my friends. If you have a steady hand and a soldering iron with a variable temperature guage its quite easy. The smaller the tip / pointier makes it a lot easy. Hoping to do this with blue lights.

If you can do PS2's, then this should be cake for you. The points on the PS2's, especially the older model ones where you had to solder wires directly to the CD/DVD controller legs, are smaller than the soldering pads for a 1206 LED. But as always be patient and be careful. You don't want to ruin a $300+ gauge cluster.

anybody wanna be paid to do that for me?

It might cost you a couple of pretty pennys. It's not easy nor is it quick task to solder that many LED's. It took me a couple of hours to solder the 44 LED's for my navigation system and those are smaller than the ones in the tC. I would love to do it for you, However I don't have a tC to test it on to make sure all the LED's are properly installed. I would try PMing panasoanic since he was the one who wrote the tutorial, has the experience to swap the LED's, and has a tC to test it on.

i wish there was sombody on the east coast near me that did this ill pay 500 dollars if i could find sombody who knew what they were doing

Wow! For $500 I would do it, even though I have never done it on the tC, I would be willing to try it for $500 and replace any parts I ruined if I ruined. 5 hours of work, $100 an hour... A collge students dream!

I got my Whtie LEDs from LC-LED.com..Those LEDs dotn work..They are the wrong voltage..So Im going RED. Like Panasonic..I wanted Blue really bad but everyone has blue! Thanks Panasonic. They were 12.40 for 40 of them..and I did a 2 Day Shipment!

I always like matching the exterior color to the interior.

Actually if the speedo needle part is on a independent driven circuit and not parallel to any other LED's, then I don't see why you couldn't just make the speedo numbers blue and the gauge needle red. That's what I would do...

And ScionTCTrav, how did you get the LED's with the wrong voltage? Typical Surface mounts are in the range of 2V - 3.5V and should still work albeit dim if there's not enough voltage.

And ScionTCTrav, how did you get the LED's with the wrong voltage? Typical Surface mounts are in the range of 2V - 3.5V and should still work albeit dim if there's not enough voltage.

Well the Voltage that the LEDs I got from www.lc-led.com are Required 3.8V and when I installed them..I would go out to my car and check each one after doing them..On the Center console, I would do one at a time..

Well when I got to like the 3rd on in a row..They were all DIM Like REALLY DIM..and I would remove the 1st on I put on and then they would be BRIGHT.

This happened w/ the Other LEDS on the other side of the Center Console Board.

The Gauges look good..Tho..

And the 3 LEDS behind the LCD on the Center console...Were a Biotch..I put them all in 3 different combinations and still couldnt get them 2 work..with any 2 in they would be bright..but w/ 3 they werent..

One Installed..
http://www.cardomain.com/member_pages/show_image.pl?fg=666666&bg=CCCCCC&migration=1&image=http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/12/web/648000-648999/648739_147_full.jpg

Notice the Middle LED Not lit...and the Buttons on the Console arnt bright.. at all
http://www.cardomain.com/member_pages/show_image.pl?fg=666666&bg=CCCCCC&migration=1&image=http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/12/web/648000-648999/648739_163_full.jpg

The Gauges look good tho..
http://www.cardomain.com/member_pages/show_image.pl?fg=666666&bg=CCCCCC&migration=1&image=http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/12/web/648000-648999/648739_164_full.jpg

1 Installed..
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/12/web/648000-648999/648739_147_full.jpg
Notice the middle LED isnt Lit.. and the Console buttons arent Bright
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/12/web/648000-648999/648739_163_full.jpg
Gauges..
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/12/web/648000-648999/648739_164_full.jpg

hmm 500 i'll do it if ya get me all the leds. and u can take the price of leds outta the 500 price. i did the clock and will soon be doing the speedo in my xb , i also did the ac lights.

Hey ScionTCTrav, that looks awesome. Anyway it sounds like the circuit might be in parallel, which means voltage would travel the path of least resistance. Plus if they even lit up after you put in each one it couldn't have been in series because you wouln't have a ground.But anyway, to remedy the problem, I'd probably start taking out the trusty multimeter to find out exactly how much voltage is going through the points. The hard part about putting LED's in parallel is that no two LED's are exactly alike, if one has more internal resistance than the other, voltage would immediately go to the other. The only way to remedy it is to have matched LED's, which is kind of difficult. Well hopefully you'll find a creative solution.

Hey hotbox05, not to discourage you but this might be a little out of your league cause you have to desolder the LCD clock which is exremely fragile and also all the surface mount components are packed pretty tight which doesn't leave you much room for error like our xB's. If you just started soldering, I would suggest you practice on more electronics first to make sure you have your skill down to a natural reflex. Just my .02. I don't want you to ruin somone's expensive gauge cluster. That would be too expensive of a lesson to learn from. Trust me on this.... Been there, done that.

gotcha wgeee , more practice cant hurt much i guess i'll stick with xb and xa's

Thanks wgeee Im going to radio shak today to get a desolder pump..and to get a small multimeter and check the voltage when i do mine tomorrow I'll let u know what i get on the voltages...so if im right and correct me if im wrong..i should get the same voltage going into it that i get outa it right?...Thanks alot man

Well assuming that the circuit is in parrallel and the LED's are acting as resistors then the voltage should be the same across each LED. So for every LED on there you should get the same voltage across it.

wgeee7478 i think when ScionTCTrav said he did one at a time, he simply removed one stock LED and replaced it with his LED. So I wouldn't say that they aren't in series but who really knows. Only the trusty multimeter will know! Or if you have the wiring diagram. Look at this a ME talking about EE things.

wgeee7478 i think when ScionTCTrav said he did one at a time, he simply removed one stock LED and replaced it with his LED. So I wouldn't say that they aren't in series but who really knows. Only the trusty multimeter will know! Or if you have the wiring diagram. Look at this a ME talking about EE things.

Yes I did replace 1 Stock LED at a time..I will buy the multimeter today..

But what am I checking for the voltage input and output..If they are all the same..what then..?

you are to measure the voltage across each, as in the positive end of the multimeter on one side of the LED and the negative on the other side. This number should be the same across all the LED's at least the stock ones if the circuit is in parrallel.

endless... is correct. The ultimate goal here is to make sure that there is enough voltage going through the circuit to power the white LED's. If the circuit is truly in parallel, I would try replacing the LED that get's no voltage with another one. The LED's are not exactly like resistors per say, but because they do have a typical 0.7V drop you can safely say they do have some internal resistance. Just try to remember LED's this way. All in all, the multimeter tells no lies. If the voltage coming out of the contact points for each LED doesn't meet the req. for a white LED, then you will have to devise another way of lighting up the back with white color.

Correct if I am wrong but can't you find LED's to fit all circumstances? or does each color LED depend on the voltage that each needs? I can see how that might be true, just like certain spectrums of light and headlight bulbs.

I'm glad that those EE classes that my bachleors in ME needed are coming in handy.

Hehe, yeah tell me about it, this is all starting to jog my memory from my BS in CompE. Anyway, mostly white and some blue LED's are a special case because different manufactures make them in their own way which makes it different from one another. Some make it to req. higher than typical voltage, some make it so the minimal voltage req. is just barely in the range of a normal color LED. That's why it's important to know how to read the data sheets if available. Sometimes they're not available(like in my case when I did my xB), so you just have to work with what you got.

It's kind of different with headlights though because you are always dealing with a constant 12V (more like 13.8V) source. The different spectrum of headlights really has nothing to do with voltage but rather what was used to manufacture the bulb. I remember back in Chemistry that if you apply a heat source to different chemicals, they would give off flames of different color. Kind of like fireworks to say the least. However the higher wattage on the other hand means that you are pulling more amperage through your stock wire harness, and that's what will burn it out if it's not hefty enough. And if you're talking about HID, the reason why they use a extremely high voltage is because there is no filament to carry the voltage from one point to the other. The voltage has to literally jump from one point to the other in mid air which air being the greatest resistance needs to be overcome.

Makes perfect sense. I'll have to look into more of what your talking about with what voltage LED's i'll need to use for when I get my tC and if the data sheets will be available, which i think they are for the tC. I'm not sure if scionlide has them cause I am not a member ie one that pays for the advanced services.

im not sure how those LED's are setup behind the dash or what they look like but im assuming thier tiny little ones small squares maybe 1 or 2mm across?.. if so dont those cell phone upgrade places in malls have those? my friend had new LED"s soldered in her phoine...might bet eh same?

might be the same, not sure what the power output on the cell phone is to power the LED's so I can't answer that question.

im not sure how those LED's are setup behind the dash or what they look like but im assuming thier tiny little ones small squares maybe 1 or 2mm across?.. if so dont those cell phone upgrade places in malls have those? my friend had new LED"s soldered in her phoine...might bet eh same?

Yeah, you can use those led's from them too. They will work as long as you get the right size. Most of these surface mount LED's have the same operating requirements so it shouldn't vary too much. However, these places may charge you a premium compared to electronic supply places because either way they want to make a profit off the LED's.

hey guys, first of all, thanks for the great write up and discussion. i think this looks really hot.

i'm planning on getting the tC with the blue illumination kit, and would love to replace the console and gauge cluster LEDs with blue ones as well, but how does this affect warranty?

some more questions:
- is there a way I can get replacement gauge clusters to mod before having to rip out the stock ones?
- why aren't blue LEDs standard with the blue illumination kit?
- is there any equivalent aftermarket parts that will do this?
- what color is the stereo illumination, and how hard would that be to mod as well?
- for the guys who have done this, how hard would you say it is on a scale of 1 to 10 (1 - changing a lightblub, 10 - rewiring your house).

i have no problem soldering or de-soldering, but i'd rather have this done professionally if possible.

didn't somebody post on here about some little sleeves you could put over the LEDs to change the color? easier than soldering =p

didn't somebody post on here about some little sleeves you could put over the LEDs to change the color? easier than soldering =pThey don't work

hey guys, first of all, thanks for the great write up and discussion. i think this looks really hot.

i'm planning on getting the tC with the blue illumination kit, and would love to replace the console and gauge cluster LEDs with blue ones as well, but how does this affect warranty?

some more questions:
- is there a way I can get replacement gauge clusters to mod before having to rip out the stock ones?
Go to a salvage yard, they'll be a lot cheaper than from a dealer.
- why aren't blue LEDs standard with the blue illumination kit?
Kinda messed up ain't it?
- is there any equivalent aftermarket parts that will do this?
Not yet.
- what color is the stereo illumination, and how hard would that be to mod as well?
Amber, unless you get the 6-disc (it's changable). I'm going to attempt the Stereo at a later date.
- for the guys who have done this, how hard would you say it is on a scale of 1 to 10 (1 - changing a lightblub, 10 - rewiring your house).
If you're experienced with soldering, then I rate it a 2 or 3, taking the console apart was harder for me.

i have no problem soldering or de-soldering, but i'd rather have this done professionally if possible.

Where can I pick up a new clear lense piece that covers the gauge cluster... mine um, yeah needs to be replaced for some reasons I will leave disclosed... :lalala:

Very nice info. One thing I would reccomend though. When removing the LCD, keep your finger on the front, and remove the board from the back.. essentially removing the PCB from the LCD instead of the other way around... this will prevent cracking the LCD by prying on it.

endless... is correct. The ultimate goal here is to make sure that there is enough voltage going through the circuit to power the white LED's. If the circuit is truly in parallel, I would try replacing the LED that get's no voltage with another one. The LED's are not exactly like resistors per say, but because they do have a typical 0.7V drop you can safely say they do have some internal resistance. Just try to remember LED's this way. All in all, the multimeter tells no lies. If the voltage coming out of the contact points for each LED doesn't meet the req. for a white LED, then you will have to devise another way of lighting up the back with white color.

Yes, an LED( like any pn junction) has a constant foward voltage drop. So if the LED is rated 3.2V, which I believe these are, they will always drop 3.2V... the rest of the circuit drops the remaining voltage , hence the load resistor in series with the LED. So no matter what size the resistor (untill you reach damaging current levels through the LED, or before you reach the supply voltage needed to power the LED) you will drop the 3.2V across the LED and the rest across the resistor and wiring/PCB trace. The resistor sizing determines the forward current through the circuit... so the current through the circuit is calculated by (Supply Voltage - LED forward voltage)/Load Resistor Value. Hope this helps..... I know it started getting long winded :P

Just ordered the LED's for this, 400 MCD should be bright. One thing I didnt notice was that the center consloe is dimmer than the gauge console with the stock amber lights in it. Hope red is a little brighter than the blue and doesnt look as dim.

Hmm, cant edit my post. anyways

One thing I "DID" notice

Just ordered the LED's for this, 400 MCD should be bright. One thing I didnt notice was that the center consloe is dimmer than the gauge console with the stock amber lights in it. Hope red is a little brighter than the blue and doesnt look as dim.

The center console runs on a lower voltage. So the 3.2V LEDs that me and many others are using (mine should arive this week) will be dim. Once they are here and I have done the gauges, I plan reverse engineering the circuits for the console and replacing the resistors in series with the LED to produce enough current to light them properly. And 400 mcd will be plenty bright. I am using 350 mcd LEDs.

Still haven’t received my LED’s yet, not sure why it’s taking so long. Looks like the place I ordered the LED from have changed the price and the minimum quantity you can order. (www.lc-led.com)

On a side not, I’ve noticed a small black dot on the clock screen the other day, and this morning was cold enough to use the heater, that’s when I saw the fan speed indicator on the left side wasn’t showing the display and it now looks like a very small crack and 2 dots. Guess ill take it to service tomorrow.

I’ve read a few post where the LCD is very sensitive (more so than most LCD’s). If this is the case, maybe ill think twice about installing the LED’s to begin with.

Still haven’t received my LED’s yet, not sure why it’s taking so long. Looks like the place I ordered the LED from have changed the price and the minimum quantity you can order. (www.lc-led.com)

On a side not, I’ve noticed a small black dot on the clock screen the other day, and this morning was cold enough to use the heater, that’s when I saw the fan speed indicator on the left side wasn’t showing the display and it now looks like a very small crack and 2 dots. Guess ill take it to service tomorrow.

I’ve read a few post where the LCD is very sensitive (more so than most LCD’s). If this is the case, maybe ill think twice about installing the LED’s to begin with.

Did you order the blue? I did from the same place.. ordered them around the 5th I believe and am still waiting for them. They supposedly shipped out today. They have no number, and when you email, the guy that responds does not make complete sentences, so I just hope they make it here

I ordered the Red ones.

I ordered red and blue. The rep said they ran out of blue (2 weeks ago) so the order took a while to receive, but I got mine yesterday.

Yep, got mine too :-)

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y111/engifineer/173-7337_IMG.jpg
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y111/engifineer/173-7334_IMG.jpg
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y111/engifineer/173-7336_IMG.jpg

I know... I posted them in another forum the other day... but.... :silly:

k, i read all the posts.. i'm still not sure which size to buy. i know the size is PLCC2 and i need somthing better then 100mcd.. but can someone tell me what voltage or exactly where i can get blue leds?

k, i read all the posts.. i'm still not sure which size to buy. i know the size is PLCC2 and i need somthing better then 100mcd.. but can someone tell me what voltage or exactly where i can get blue leds?

I sent you a link in response to the PM. The ones I used are 350 mcd, which are perfect for the job. They have a wide view angle too which provides even coverage.

Has anyone tried to do 2 different colors yet? Like the numbers is white and the lines are white. Like the new 2005 toyota corolla xrs? my friend just got a xrs and i think the dash is niceeee

Has anyone tried to do 2 different colors yet? Like the numbers is white and the lines are white. Like the new 2005 toyota corolla xrs? my friend just got a xrs and i think the dash is niceeee

That will not work easily on our gauges. There are only a few LEDs that light up each gauge. The red portions are actually lit up by the same leds as well. The numbers are also lit up with the same LEDs. You would need to modify the plastic peices on the gauge cluster to do it and most likely then move around some of the LEDs on the board, which will not be a fun project.

Should i put in WHITE LED's then and hope someone will make guage faces and just let it light it up that way?

I really wanna do this but I have no experience in soldering at all. Is there anything important like putting the LED the right way. What does that mean ? Is it like putting the LED in the right way like you do with a battery wtih -/+ ? Does the PCB show which is -/+ or am i going have to do a trail and error thing.

Is there more to this then just soldering some LED out and putting some new ones in ?

I really wanna do this but I have no experience in soldering at all. Is there anything important like putting the LED the right way. What does that mean ? Is it like putting the LED in the right way like you do with a battery wtih -/+ ? Does the PCB show which is -/+ or am i going have to do a trail and error thing.

Is there more to this then just soldering some LED out and putting some new ones in ?

Here is a post I added with some soldering tips and info.

http://scionlife.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=61793

The LEDs have an anode and cathode (corresponding to the + and - portion of the device). If you order the LEDs below,

http://www.lc-led.com/View/itemNumber/98

They will match the ones on the board as far as packaging is concerned. They will have a chopped off corner. Just make sure you solder the new ones in facing the same direction and you will be fine.

so basicly i should just follow how it looks like on the board then right ? I tried reading your tips and i understood some of it since I work with computers alot but the rest was kind of uneasy for me to understand. I'm thinking about taking a old board from one of my computers and start to solder some stuff out just to practice. Hey do you doing this will void the warranty ?

Nothing will void the warranty. If they can prove that a mod you make caused the issue at hand, then they can deny warranty coverage for that instance.

Practicing on an old board with surface mount devices is a great idea if you are not familiar with soldering. A surface mount resistor (small, black rectangle shaped device) is close to the size of these LED. The resistors are a little smaller, but if you get those down the LEDs will be easier. And with the model LED I referenced you simply match the way the old one is soldered in. The LEDs I mentioned are about $1.33 a peice, but they are the best match in brightness and have the best color of any others I have found. That is not a high price for the output and view angle specs they offer.

thx for helping me out here engifneer i really apperciate it. Do you think i'll need some solder flux for this ? and about Soldering the LED to the PCB does it matter how it's soldered or can I just a enough on it and then leave it alone ?


Here a link to the Solder tips i've been looking at if anything else is interested

http://www.elexp.com/t_solder.htm

i dont know if this works, but found this on ebay, expensive though.... but might help....

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=72237&item=7976519546&rd=1

i dont know if this works, but found this on ebay, expensive though.... but might help....

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=72237&item=7976519546&rd=1

Ours are surface mount. Here is a picture:

http://www.lc-led.com/images/powertop.gif

So the ones you listed actually will not fit. I searched and searche (As did others) to find others that fit, and the ones I referenced in my posts are the best match we could find.

Ok, can someone break this down simple for me. heres what i want to do.
I want white lights in the following...
rear view mirror blinkers
gauge cluster
center console including the little lighted storage compartment
front and rear dome lights

Mehhh i knew it, but am sad that they are, surface mount leds..
engifineer, that's beutiful :)
my brother wants me to do this to his tC, but I've never worked with surface mount leds.. and all I know about them is that they are EXTREMLY small, which of course means they would be harder to work with, solder ect.. If I'm not a pro solderer, should I even attempt this? I don't want to break my brothers car :)

Mehhh i knew it, but am sad that they are, surface mount leds..
engifineer, that's beutiful :)
my brother wants me to do this to his tC, but I've never worked with surface mount leds.. and all I know about them is that they are EXTREMLY small, which of course means they would be harder to work with, solder ect.. If I'm not a pro solderer, should I even attempt this? I don't want to break my brothers car :)

If you can find an old device that you can take apart (an old motherboard would probably work) that has surface mount devices it would be perfect for practicing on. The main idea is to get comfortable enough that you can make the connections fairly quickly as to avoid overheating the device or the board.

I'll see if we have any old cell phones.. thanks

if i'm doing the center console do i get the same LEDs ? I hear there a problem with them being dim. Any info on this ?

I havn't studied it but I've seen pics and yea.. they're surface mount LEDs (same thing)
they might end up being a little dim if you get any colors besides orange red or yellow.. they're orange (on tc) origanolly and orange usually runs on less volts than any other colors besides red and yellow...

whoa... that installation looks crazily hard

Anyone have 1have an extra blue LED from this project? I did my gauges in red, but i want my AC button in Blue. Cant see spending the full amount for the sample pack again. Ill pay a few bucks if needed or trade for some red ones if you want your defrost that color.

Send a PM if your able or willing :)

Thanks.

hmm not sure what i was thinking. :)

Anyone have 1 extra**

Well guys... I guess I did it too..

today I had 50 Red LEDs waiting for me on my bed along with those "cold heat" soldering tools.. (kinda cool)

anywho.. I got stuck along the way...

Those damn needles will not come off for S**t!! lol I tried and tried and they will simply not come off! what do I do?

and also.. how would I know what side is what when I'm putting the new leds on the board? He said it matters what way you put them...

Thanks a lot for the help

-Emo

Use the two spoon method and they will come off. You have to pry a little harder than feels right, but they will come off. Be careful, mine almost hit me :P Just place peices of paper towel on either side of the needle and use two spoons to pry evenly.

If you examine the LEDs, there is one corner with a chamfer on it. Just make sure they line up the same way as the old ones and you will be golden

yes thats veyr good job!

anyone in or near chicago that knows what theyre doing? i would do this myself but im too much of a wuss :nails: .... i would probably mess it up

9) We will now desolder the LCD panel. THE LCD PANEL ON THE CONSOLE IS NOT SOCKETED LIKE IT IS ON THE GAUGE CLUSTER. I learned this the hard way and cracked my LCD screen. If you screw this up, you will have to purchase a whole other HVAC computer as the LCD is not sold individually as a repair part. If you can find a replacement computer for cheap, please let me know. Anyway, here is the procedure for removing the LCD panel:

First, use desoldering braid to reheat and suck up the solder along the leads of the LCD on the back of the PCB. You'll know you're done when you can see holes around the leads of the LCD on the circuit board.

Second, remove the two screws holding in the white plastic surround.

Third, *gently* pry up on the LCD by lifting the white surround away from the board. You may have to heat up the leads of the LCD on the underside of the circuit board to finally free them from any residual solder.


I tried doing that and it seemed impossible to do w/o breaking something so I came up from behind.. literally :rofl: (click on the link below)

http://img61.imageshack.us/my.php?image=lcdleds1qu.jpg

I unscrewed the screws that hold the white plastic and started bending the LCD pins VERY SLOWLY and gently until I exposed the LEDs on the board so I can have enough room to work... you may need a second person holding the board until you remove the leds but that's about it..

And I would like to thank panasoanic for making this how to because I would have never done it by myself. :clap: :clap: :clap:

http://img61.imageshack.us/img61/5661/dash9gr.jpg

also... I know how people were saying that the new LEDs draw more current from the center console so they look dimmer.. well in my case it made my Head unit a lot dimmer and not the LEDs..lol witch is a good thing since I'll be replacing the HU anyway...

you can see the difference here...

http://img292.imageshack.us/img292/415/center5ss.jpg

-Emo

question, after prying and putting back the car together... do you notice anything is wrong with the dash boards etc? like loose, not in perfectly etc?

thanx that helps sooooooooo mutch. i am going to do blue to match the floor and heater vents

question, after prying and putting back the car together... do you notice anything is wrong with the dash boards etc? like loose, not in perfectly etc?

I have had my gauge cluster out approximately 8 times due to changing out the LEDs and taking signal measurements for another project. No rattles or issues with it.

Anyone here try this on an xA? Or at least, know if the xA's cluster will need the same size (PLCC-sized) LEDs?

-- Anthony N.

any problems placing Blue and Red LEDS on the same board?

Man, I want to change mine so bad but still not brave enough to do it. Only because I'm affraid the needle will not be accurate again. I once had accord and it wasn't accurate anymore after I mess with it. Maybe one day but I guess I have to learn how to solder first huh?

Man, I want to change mine so bad but still not brave enough to do it. Only because I'm affraid the needle will not be accurate again. I once had accord and it wasn't accurate anymore after I mess with it. Maybe one day but I guess I have to learn how to solder first huh?

Pmed you some info.

is 5000 or 7000 mcd going to blind me

is 5000 or 7000 mcd going to blind me

You wont find them that bright that will fit into the cluster properly. And yes, those would be blinding. The ones listed from LC-LED are the perfect match and are around 300 mcd, which is more than bright enough.

is 5000 or 7000 mcd going to blind me

Those are for tail lights and pretty much outside use... and like you said.. they are going to blind you..lol

-Emo

They're bright.. but won't blind you (haha obviously) I have 4 22000 mcd white leds in an altoids can, FRICKING BRIGHT, my friend pointed it right into my face... not blind.. but I bet it did something bad to my eyes lol

I broke the center console LCD last night. Any ideas on a cheap replacement?

I broke the center console LCD last night. Any ideas on a cheap replacement?


You have to buy the whole board to replace the LCD. I would look for one from salvage if possible.

As I mention in the how to on replacing the center console LEDs and making them as bright as the gauges, be VERY patient with the LCD. Even after it appears you have wicked all of the solder off the pins, there will still be some further down in the holes. You have to keep heating and wicking (do pins far apart alternately to prevent overheating one area) untill it all comes out. When it is ready you should be able to wiggle the LCD and see all pins move on the other side of the board. If not, keep working on those that do not move.

will swaping out the LED's void out any of the warrenty?

Does anyone know if Kragen or Autozone sells the required LED size for a TC? If so please tell me, thanks.

RANDODE......read this write up, then tell me you can do this for me. I Dont even want to attempt this. But I will let you guinea pig my car...because i have that much confidence in you!

The only vendor with a good match I have found is LC-LED.com . I have ordered from them multiple times when doing gauges and console for other tCs and they are a decent source.

Just did it.. and my lord does my Blue look teal.. Thanks for the wright up.. it is much apreaciated

is it the 74 or t1.5 i need for the shifter console? i have an auto.

Let me get this straight.....other then the LEDS their is nothing else you have to buy to make this project work? Correct? I don't want to buy the LEDS and install them and have it blow out because i had to buy RESISTORS.

For the gauges you just switch them out. For the center console you have to modify the circuit to provide enough current.

For the gauges you just switch them out. For the center console you have to modify the circuit to provide enough current.

"Modify"... Is that something a 17 year old with a slight education with electronics and his brothers pot head friend could get done right?

Engifineer, is there any way you could PM me or post the link for the fix on the center console.. I can't seem to find it using the search feature.. <--- No0b

Oh, and also.. about the LCD in the center console.. You can bend the metal if you are careful about it so that you don't even have to remove it.. I wouldn't suggest doing this more then once or twice because you will weaken the metal causing it to break.. also it may stay bent, however it will slide into place when you put everything back together...

Thanks again for the write up! It was a great resource..

It is in the tech article section under Console LED replacement. I am working on a much simpler fix that requires just swapping out some parts rather than having to cut traces on the board, but I have not even started on testing it yet so I am not sure how it will work. But the one in the tech articles works great.

anyone in or near chicago that knows what theyre doing? i would do this myself but im too much of a wuss :nails: .... i would probably mess it up

yea - anybody in the chicagoland area?

In the twin cities here... but not quite close to chicago.

I get a lot of requests for these to be done as well as the console. To those that have requested, be patient. I have heard from a parts vendor who would like to offer these through their store, which will make handling the orders and shipping much easier for me. As soon as this is in place (which should be anytime now) there will be an announcement on ScionLife. So for the ones who have inquired, dont think I am putting you off! I wont name the vendor until everything is in place, but it should be soon!

Nice write up. I think I'll be trying this as soon as I can gather enough LED's and the balls to try it.

Wouldn't it be nice to get a circuit diagram of the various boards with part numbers for the LED components. Then all the questions of voltage ratings, current draws, and brightness could be put to rest. Times like this I wish I new an EE at Toyota.

Hey, if you need any assistance let me know.. I'm from Ohio and I'm in the process of doing several of them.. I'm actually waiting for the LED's to come in..

Oh and check out OhioScions.com Good bunch of people

nice

Nice write up. I think I'll be trying this as soon as I can gather enough LED's and the balls to try it.

Wouldn't it be nice to get a circuit diagram of the various boards with part numbers for the LED components. Then all the questions of voltage ratings, current draws, and brightness could be put to rest. Times like this I wish I new an EE at Toyota.

No kidding.. I spent a good amount of time creating the circuit diagram for the center console conversion before I tackled that one. That one I had to have since I needed to modify the circuit for the higher voltage LEDs... a schematic would have saved me some time... and some Captain Morgan later :P

I just recently finished this project and I noticed that my white gauge led's arent very white. Its more of a dim white/blue-ish color. Can anyone help me? I bought the leds from lc-leds.com....THANKS!

thats very hard but dont they have a way to change colors without doing all this

Thanks for this write up! I just finished doing the gauges and will be starting on the center console. I really appreciate you taking the time to post this write up on here so that I was able to do my own mods!

Edit... ya.. so I am a :loser: ... after so carefully removing all the solder from the pins.. and ever so gently trying to remove the LCD screen... I still cracked it.

I just wanna cry. And to make matters worse... I was tryin to help my bf out, and it's actually for his car.

Damn.. so.. has anyone found a decent price to get the LCD screens yet, or is it still by ordering a new HVAC unit?

i bought these and put them in right. can any one tell me why they are not lighting up at all.

Mouser Part #: 604-AA3528SRC
Mfr. Part #: AA3528SRC
Mfr.: Kingbright
Description: Kingbright LED SMD Super Bright PLCC-2 RED WATER CLEAR
Category: LEDs - Surface mount

i have tried everything and read all the articals in scionlife and cant figure it out.
someone please help. no lights at night is a bad thing.

^^ According to the datasheet, those typically operate in the hundreds of mA range, while the board circuit is set up to operate at less that 10mA. I would have to do more digging to see exactly what is going on. You should get some output from them, so you may check your polarity on all of them, but I am not sure these will be the best match. I would still go with the ones from LC-LED.com.

sweet thanks but can someone help me pick out the right thing i am looking for red. i just want to get the right ones this time.

sweet thanks but can someone help me pick out the right thing i am looking for red. i just want to get the right ones this time.

http://lc-led.com/View/itemNumber/101

SLT776TUR

Perfect match. 14 to do the odo and gauges on the cluster (more if you want the shift lights on the auto or to do the warning lights and turn signals), and 16 to do the center console.

engifineer, you sir are the shiznit. thanks so very much for your help. much thanks for your taking the time to help me.

yea I want to do this mod so badly, but I am afraid of the needles being inaccurate after I do it. Any tips on how to keep it accurate?

yea I want to do this mod so badly, but I am afraid of the needles being inaccurate after I do it. Any tips on how to keep it accurate?

Just move them to thier furthermost counterclockwise position (0) and mark the face lightly with a pencil. When you put them back in, push them partially onto the spindle and turn them back to your marks (to make sure they stay zeroed) and them push them the rest of the way on. Leave a gap between them and the face so they dont scrub. You can easily clean the marks off with alcohol.

thanks!!!!!! that helps alot, I've been waiting for a tip like that

Sorry for the long delay. I have had numerous requests from those that want to convert their own center console LEDs rather than pay someone to do it for them, but would like a premade "kit" including all of the pre-bent wires and resistors for doing so. I realize that many of you are willing to do the soldering work, but want to make sure that you have everything neatly bent and in the right place. I have some templates I made that I can use to create these and mail them out with or without the LEDs. Just shoot me a pm if you are interested in ordering them. Keep in mind that you still need to be comfortable doing the soldering work correctly as well as cutting parts of the circuits.

I just want to make sure b4 i do this, is the circuit board is the same on the TC as well as the Xa and Xb?

I just finished my intrument cluster with white. It took me about 2 hrs for all. I will try to post pics tomorrow

Sweet that would be awesome. I was considering blue or white, but leaning towards white

Sweet that would be awesome. I was considering blue or white, but leaning towards white


http://www-personal.engin.umich.edu/~mrhan/IMG_0702.JPG
I donno why 100,120, 140 km/h are whiter than other km/h numbers

http://www-personal.engin.umich.edu/~mrhan/IMG_0703.JPG

http://www-personal.engin.umich.edu/~mrhan/IMG_0704.JPG
I got LEDs in the vents, waiting on the blue kit for the center console from engifineer.

can anyone help me with putting the speedo needle back on, i got it on but i think it seems like it doesnt responed as quickly as it should.

can anyone help me with putting the speedo needle back on, i got it on but i think it seems like it doesnt responed as quickly as it should.

Check to make sure it's not pushed down so far that it's making contact with the face. You should have a very small gap just to make sure it never touches.

alright thanks i see what you are talking about (by the way what chapter of NRG are you from)

can anyone help me with putting the speedo needle back on, i got it on but i think it seems like it doesnt responed as quickly as it should.

Check to make sure it's not pushed down so far that it's making contact with the face. You should have a very small gap just to make sure it never touches.

That definitely sounds like it. When I do them I usually make sure the needle back is approx 1/8 or so away from the face of the gauges.

is there any way to change the color of the needles or will it have to stay amber?

and if you change the color to red, will you lose the redline for the tach and temp gauge or will that red just darken or blend in?

i donno if this has been asked before, but can you still dim the gauges with that little knob (or stick w/e you wanna call it)?

The dimmer still works the same as before for both the gauges and center console.

is there any way to change the color of the needles or will it have to stay amber?

and if you change the color to red, will you lose the redline for the tach and temp gauge or will that red just darken or blend in?

yes you can change the color... i dunno about the redline though.. i think it'll blend in

i donno if this has been asked before, but can you still dim the gauges with that little knob (or stick w/e you wanna call it)?

yes... still dimmable.

cool thanks for the quick response

is there any way to change the color of the needles or will it have to stay amber?

and if you change the color to red, will you lose the redline for the tach and temp gauge or will that red just darken or blend in?

There are ways to change the color of the needles, some colors are easier than others I think. They can be repainted.

I have done red gauges for a few people, and the redline blends in pretty well. with other colors it stays red though.

Whatever you do,, use neon paint on the needles. I learned the hard way.. Neon red worked great:
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c87/jfowler512/Car3/03-09-06_1923.jpg

sorry for the blurry pic, this ones a little more detailed:

http://photobucket.com/albums/c87/jfowler512/Car3/?action=view&current=03-09-06_1916.jpg

whoops..

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c87/jfowler512/Car3/03-09-06_1916.jpg

Does anyone know if a neighborhood customizing shop or toyota bodyshop would be likely to do this mod for customers? The only people I've seen willing to do this mod for me is like 9 hours away or will take a week through shipping. I don't wanna get caught driving without gauges. And I can't be without a vehicle for a week either. Anyone possibly near the chicago area that would be able to do this mod for me? (green gauges/center column, white needles, white cubbyhole)

I'm having trouble finding the LEDs I need for this job. I'm looking for pink, possibly purple if I have to settle, but preferably pink.

I know I know, but it's for my wife's car.

Anyway, all I see out there is red, yellow, blue and occasionally orange. I can find pink and purple, but they're the more "traditional" type bulb I guess. I see them called 'wired LEDs'. Basically the type that look like a jellyfish.

HELP

I have only ever seen one company that made pink, and you had to order 6000 of them. They also were not very bright. I think if you can find UV ones they will give you the purple look, but I havent found bright ones in this package yet. I will let you know if I find anything

That would be great. I actually shot you a PM yesterday, just disregard it. But PLEASE let me know if you can find anything that matches what I'm looking for. I got a theme I gotta stick to here. :)

if i brought my car to a car audio place would they change out all the amber leds in the gauge cluster and the center console for blue? how much do you think they would charge

If they would I wouldnt let them in most cases unless I really knew they could do good work. Here is why:

soldering two things together so they work does not necessarrilly mean that they will work down the road. A poorly made solder joint will work fine for a while, but WILL fail down the road due to vibration, corrosion, constant temp changes, etc. So you want to make sure they can do good work considering they arent soldering wire here, they are soldering surface mount devices. Not saying they are all this way, but I have seen MANY car audio shops soldering work.. and wouldnt dare think of doing that to my gauges and console. They just dont normally do a lot of intricate soldering. Now I am sure there are people at some of the shops that can do this just fine, so dont take offense if one of you is reading this. But just make sure they can do the work right before taking it there.

Next, the console mod requires not only swapping out the leds, but removing and replacing the LCD, cutting traces and adding other components. If it were me I would either want someone who is experienced, or would want the peice of mind figuring it out on my own and doing it myself if I did not already have experience. If you have a shop do it, make sure they agree in writing to replace all components if they damage them.

Now I am in no way saying this is rocket science, but I would reccommend learning yourself or having someone with this type of experience do it for you before I would taking it to a non-specialized shop.

Another rule of thumb I would take into account. Dont take it anywhere that tells you they can do both parts in an hour. I have my masters, a LOT of experience soldering much smaller surface mount than these, designed the mod and have done about 20 of them and still give myself a three hour window to do them. Doing it properly involves dis-assembly and re-assembly, the circuit mod to the console, the led swaps, taking care to remove the LCD on the console without overheating it or cracking it, testing the boards and proper clean up. Solder flux that is left on the board becomes corrosive over time. I scrape all connections and clean everything I touch with alcohol before putting it back together. I also finsish up by pushing on all connections and inspecting them to ensure they are good and solid and that they are shiny. A solder joint that is dull in color right after soldering is one that will fail eventually. A good solder joint should be nice and shiny after you are finished.

I also do not rush any of it. There is no point risking something failing after it is back in someones car.

The last thing is can the person troubleshoot the board if they damage someting accidentally? If they can, they will be able to correct it and go on about the work. If not, they will be buying you a new board (they should anyways) and you will be waiting for that, then wondering if you still want them working on it.. so you are out at least your time and still have amber lighting :)

Anyway, not to tell you who to take it to or who not to, but just some things you should watch and look for. Like I said, it is not rocket science if it is done correctly.

Anybody in the NJ/NY area that has done this before? Wanted to see if i could come by sometime and have you do it for me, i'd pay you for your services of course. Not really all to confident with my ability to solder=)

Doing this mod next weekend! Wish me Luck!

I don't quite understand what has to be done to get the center console bright like the gauges?

Also I'd prefer purple/UV blacklights as well if you can find em. I'd like to do this ASAP

I am looking for three red led's. I didn't have enough left over from my gauge cluster to do my sterring wheel controls. I have no problem paying a resonable price for them. Please message me if you have some extra red led's.

I think I have a few around, send me your mailing address and I will mail em to you.

does anyone know what type of LCD the clock LCd is; Numeric, graphic, etc. please respond if so, busted mine looking for a replacement.

It is graphic, but dont waste time looking. I am pretty sure it is a custom LCD. Your best bet is to find the HVAC module in salvage. If you look hard enough you can usually get one for about $50. Beats paying $350 or more for a new one.

do you have take out the whole console to get to the light that is below the center console?

get on the floorboard and reach around the back of the console, that socket pulls out the back. Its a #74 bulb I believe. I am guessing you are talking about the cubby hole light.

ya the cubby hole..i didn't know how to describe it lol thanks

so you think that the 74 wedge base bulb on this page will fit?

http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/commerce.cgi?product=CAR&keywords=&cart_id=6699606.2346&next=50

i just ordered like 45 red LEDs for this mod, and i decided i dont want to do the center console at all. and the guages i want to be BLUE/WHITE. i ordered RED leds... if anyone wants to trade, or needs red PM me.. ill probly never use them. hook me up with 14 blue/white ones if you got em. thanks

my gf just got a 06 TC after trading in her 03 corolla lease and she didnt like the color of everything and she likes the blue in my truck and i told her its possible to change it...well she wants that now.. heh well looks like im gona be researchn this stuff and tearn it up soon

modding has commenced :P

^^
good luck and try not to break anything lol

heh yea i hear ya on that, im usualy good with these things.. but yea.. i dont wanna be in the doghouse for a halfass TC..lol

heh yea i hear ya on that, im usualy good with these things.. but yea.. i dont wanna be in the doghouse for a halfass TC..lol

Its really not that hard. It is scary to look at though. Just make sure you take your time, and follow directions. Then make sure everything is soldered nicely. What works today may not work in a few weeks.

doing this MOD next saturday, wish me luck...

Great DIY!

Thanks for all the information.

I'll be ordering from lc-led (Thanks for the link Engi):

http://www.lc-led.com/View/itemNumber/101

I'll be tackling this on with a friend who knows how to solder when these come in.

Thanks again!

ok from everyones experiences... where is the BEST place to get WHITE leds?

ive read about www.mouser.con, www.lc-led.com, www.autolumination.com

ive read some posts that say lc-led is the place to get em... then others say lc-leds dont work... so im a little confused

which is best and which has the best WHITE led?

:bow: to everyone that has already done this to their car!!

Couldn't do it today, F rain got me in my way... :tap:

Just did it, looks awsome IMO. 2 hours, and I have never solder anything in my life. A little scared but exited when doing it. Here's my photo:

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f192/soros151/DSC01983.jpg

What do you think?

Wow, looks great! That amber is a horid color...guess I have to break down and buy me some leds too. Anyone done this with cold-soldering method? Anyone in the Northern VA area that has completed a swap?

I wouldnt try the cold solder method, especially on a board with static sensitive devices all over it. I am assuming you are speaking of that cold soldering iron they advertise.

^^ hmm... that that huge tip wouldn't make it any easier either...

Just did it, looks awsome IMO. 2 hours, and I have never solder anything in my life. A little scared but exited when doing it. Here's my photo:

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f192/soros151/DSC01983.jpg

What do you think?Which LED's did you use? What company, What mcd, what color? They look Awesome and im getting ready to try it....

ok from everyones experiences... where is the BEST place to get WHITE leds?

ive read about www.mouser.con, www.lc-led.com, www.autolumination.com

ive read some posts that say lc-led is the place to get em... then others say lc-leds dont work... so im a little confused

which is best and which has the best WHITE led?

:bow: to everyone that has already done this to their car!!

I have never found any on mouser or autoillumination that would come close to being bright enough. The ones from LC-LED are absolutely perfect, not sure why someone said they dont work.

The only other place I have found any that would work is an ebay add that was listed somewhere on here. They are VERY cheap, so I am ordering some and stress testing them to see if they are up to par before I use them on anyone elses car.

You need some that are between 250mcd - 350mcd, but I think you can go up to 500mcd without them being overly bright since we arent running them very hard.

Just did it, looks awsome IMO. 2 hours, and I have never solder anything in my life. A little scared but exited when doing it. Here's my photo:

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f192/soros151/DSC01983.jpg

What do you think?

I might like this better than the blue ones. Are these just white LEDs?

Just did it, looks awsome IMO. 2 hours, and I have never solder anything in my life. A little scared but exited when doing it. Here's my photo:

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f192/soros151/DSC01983.jpg

What do you think?

I might like this better than the blue ones. Are these just white LEDs?]

Yes, from lc-led:
Power Top Super White SMD - 350 mcd
http://www.lc-led.com/View/itemNumber/97

thanks for the info engifineer

i guess its my turn :nails: im ordering today and should have pics by next week

i hope they look like soros151 they look great

thanks for the info engifineer

i guess its my turn :nails: im ordering today and should have pics by next week

i hope they look like soros151 they look great

Thanks :P , and good luck.

LED cheaper then LC-LED.com

They perfectly works with the tC gauge cluster..
http://store.ledmod.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=16_17

1206 leds are very very small and very hard to work with, i used them in mine and it took me way too long to try and get them on the pads and solder them down with a tweezer, get the ones from LC-LED.com, a little more money but worth it.

1206 leds are very very small and very hard to work with, i used them in mine and it took me way too long to try and get them on the pads and solder them down with a tweezer, get the ones from LC-LED.com, a little more money but worth it.
PLCC is small also... if you can deal with PLCC, you shouldn't have problem with 1206...
For me 1206 is easier since contact area is easier to solder on... PLCC has them on the bottom side, so you'll need very fine point soldering iron...

^^ the contact point on PLCC-2 packages extends up the ends of the LED, making them very easy to solder actually. The contact runs from the bottom, up the side. I like dealing with them better than the smaller ones, easier on the eyes :P

Just finished... couldnt wait so i payed for 2 day air mail
I think it looks OK i wish they were brighter... any tips?
if not , i can live with the results... either way looks better than amber and not bad for first time solder (literally)
thanks for the how-to guys...
let me know what you guys think i did or didnt do to make brighter

http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d68/celestemejia6/gaugecluster.jpg
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d68/celestemejia6/Gauge.jpg

that looks fine. actually, great job!

if you're going off on brightness because of pictures you've seen online... just remember that camera settings can make it really off..

just make sure your dimmer switch is high and there ya go... it's as bright as it's gonna be. :)

Did you leave an amber near the needle? You could swap it out to white and the needle will still light up amber, and it'd probably bee a little brighter on all of them.

Errr...you have a white glow around the needles...but the km markings are amber...weird.

^^ part of the KMH markings are white too in the middle.. a lot of different colors going on in there :D

^^ yeah...it's pretty much due to the way the leds are arranged.

it's not that noticeable in person... but for that specific picture.. it's probably the best one i've seen taken. but then again it's just the speedo. where most are the entire cluster.

hey has anyone thought of changing the lights down in the shift knob?
you know the P R N D 3 2...

Did you leave an amber near the needle? You could swap it out to white and the needle will still light up amber, and it'd probably bee a little brighter on all of them.

Errr...you have a white glow around the needles...but the km markings are amber...weird.

i just followed instructions i replaced 14 leds
i did 5 for the speedo and 2 right below for the lcd
yeah i guess it is wierd :question:

Are you sure they sent you all the same color LEDs? :P I have gotten a few odd ones here and there.

I havent seen one come out with that color difference out of the 35 I have done yet. It doesnt look bad, dont get me wrong there, just strange it came out like that. You did right by changing 14.

hey dave i hope mine comes out good thanks a million
-Eric

"hey has anyone thought of changing the lights down in the shift knob?
you know the P R N D 3 2..."

yea i changed mine, its one bulb, i forgot wat model the bulb is but i made mine blue, the only bad thing is that the last letter on it doesnt glow too much, its kinda dim, but it looks awesome.

did you get it by 3pm rembr 3.01 its late get the money back

I have a package waiting at the office, so I assume that is it (I havent been home from work to check yet) I am on my way there right now to check. For overnight, they dont come back after 3pm to deliver, so if it is there it came on time. As soon as I get home and check I will shoot you a message. I will get a hold of you later as well to let you know what I find on it.

yea bro just hopin that the guages can come back real quick the center can take how ever long.

"hey has anyone thought of changing the lights down in the shift knob?
you know the P R N D 3 2..."

yea i changed mine, its one bulb, i forgot wat model the bulb is but i made mine blue, the only bad thing is that the last letter on it doesnt glow too much, its kinda dim, but it looks awesome.


Does any one know what model this buld would be? Has any one else done this?

1206 arent bad at all. If you have any decent skill you most likely dont even need to solder the leds directly on. I just keep the pad hot with solder and touch the led just before i place it. The hot solder on the pads will stick to the solder on the led and make an instant solid connection. No need to solder the leds on the pads. If you think 1206 are hard to mess with you shouldn't probably be doing the mod. Now 0603, they start to get hard.

^^ That creates a VERY un-reliable joint. That is what is known as a "cold" joint, and you can bet it will fail down the road. I actually remove most of the old solder, which is the best method really. I leave just enough to tack the new one in place so I can re-solder. The proper way to solder is as follows (including an easy way to hold it in place):

1) Place and hold the LED on the pad.
2) Touch the tip of the iron to the pad and the LED contact at the same time to tack it in place with the old solder
3) Now that you can let go of it, move to the other side of the LED.
4) Touch the iron to the pad and the contact of the LED at the same time, as far to one edge of the LED as you can get. The idea is to heat both parts together.
5) If there is sufficient solder still on the pad, you will see it wick up the LED contact and towards the iron. If you need to add solder, touch it to the pad and LED contact at the same time, but avoid touching it to the iron (solder will flow towards the hottest point). The solder will wick across the joint and to the iron.
7) Repeat for the end you tacked down to start with
6) remove the iron by pulling straight up.

When you are finished, the joint should be SHINY, not dull. Dull indicates that the part moved while drying (cold joint).

I may be explaining it a bit wrong. Its not a total cold solder. I keep the pad hot (with fresh solder, old removed with braid) and apply the led while the solder is still hot. The hot solder on the pads will allow all the solder to melt and form one solid bond. Its not technically a cold solder. I doubt most people without experience could ever get them to stick anyway. I seriously doubt a 20ma led will ever produce any reasonable heat to weaken even a poor solder. I would put money that the average person ( and even some fairly experienced solderers ) cant make a better connection. Most people solder very poorly and honestly it cant be taught very well. You cant teach proper hand-eye.

It doesnt take heat. A cold joint fails on its own due to a lot of things. The point is that it is very weak and can be easilly broken by vibration (which cars have a lot of), temp changes (winter/summer) etc. They also allow more oxygen into the joint, which can print on internal corrosion. I have a board sitting here right this minute that three of the LEDs stopped working on, so it was sent to me. Cold solder joint. They actually did a pretty good job soldering, but there was one cold joint (The board developed other issues, but they are a different story).

Moving the peice at ALL while the solder is hot creates a cold joint. That is the definition actually. So heating it that way and then placing it does just that. Take it from someone who has been doing this a long time, including working with 144 pin flat pack processors with pins so close together you have to use a magnifying glass to de-solder and resolder them.

Not trying to bash you or start a fight at all. But what you are describing IS a cold joint, and any joint that was not created that way will last longer. The part should be touching the contact pad when the solder is heated, and should not move at all until the solder hardens. I just dont want people learning this way and then having issues later on. It is actually much easier to learn to do it the right way .

anyone in San Diego that can do this for me? of course for $

^^ I just sent you an email regarding your questions you pmd

^^ thanks!

It doesnt take heat. A cold joint fails on its own due to a lot of things. The point is that it is very weak and can be easilly broken by vibration (which cars have a lot of), temp changes (winter/summer) etc. They also allow more oxygen into the joint, which can print on internal corrosion. I have a board sitting here right this minute that three of the LEDs stopped working on, so it was sent to me. Cold solder joint. They actually did a pretty good job soldering, but there was one cold joint (The board developed other issues, but they are a different story).

Moving the peice at ALL while the solder is hot creates a cold joint. That is the definition actually. So heating it that way and then placing it does just that. Take it from someone who has been doing this a long time, including working with 144 pin flat pack processors with pins so close together you have to use a magnifying glass to de-solder and resolder them.

Not trying to bash you or start a fight at all. But what you are describing IS a cold joint, and any joint that was not created that way will last longer. The part should be touching the contact pad when the solder is heated, and should not move at all until the solder hardens. I just dont want people learning this way and then having issues later on. It is actually much easier to learn to do it the right way .

YAY...I do it that way...YAY.

^^
:P Which way?

Seriously, I wasnt trying to offend anyone doing it any other way, just trying to add some helpful info to help people create good lasting connections :)


Oh, and bread makes me poop.... yaaaayyyyyy :rofl: sorry, thats my favorite line of his :D

The right way :)

Started doing a Kia the other day. They make me jealous...the LEDs for the needles are actually completely separated from anything else...so different colored needles on those = cake.

That would be nice.

I have a set of needles I left to dry last night that I did in neon blue. So I cant wait to see how they come out when I put thier gauges back together before shipping today. Should look very nice!

I think I am getting ready to start doing Nissans as well (G35 and Titans), so we will see how those are put together next I guess :P A shop is trying to arrange to send me the gauges and console to see what LEDs it takes and if it needs any modding.

As I mentioned, here are some more pics. The first two are of the set I just painted the needles blue on and changed the LEDs to blue. I think this would also look awesome with white gauges and blue needles. The next ones are pics of my setup with red needles and the temp knob with blue, blue, red, red. I used neon blue acrylic paint on the blue needles, so they look nice without the lights on as well. Sorry, they were all taken in a partially lit garage, so some of the details dont stand out quite as well as they do in person, but you get the general idea.

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y111/engifineer/188-8883_IMG.jpg

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y111/engifineer/188-8882_IMG.jpg

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y111/engifineer/188-8889_IMG.jpg

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y111/engifineer/188-8888_IMG.jpg

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y111/engifineer/188-8887_IMG.jpg

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y111/engifineer/188-8886_IMG.jpg

is that the same car in both pictures because that's a 3500 mile increase/decrease if so in the odo.

Same car. The mileage is completely stored in the gauge cluster, just like a car without a digital odo. I plugged his into my car to see how the blue would turn out and take some pics. The pics with the red needles are with my gauges installed.

Gauges are done! Rj rocks "local led master" Told him what I wanted and BAM! I could not get into the total blue look "just not my style but does look good!" so I chose a two tone... well triple tone... red white and blue. Red needles, white letters & buttons and blue lcd's.... Will match the autometer ultralite series 2 gauges I ordered perfectly!

http://sl-i.net/JEREMYS/MYSCIONTC/GAUGES/1.jpg

http://sl-i.net/JEREMYS/MYSCIONTC/GAUGES/2.jpg

http://sl-i.net/JEREMYS/MYSCIONTC/GAUGES/3.jpg

http://sl-i.net/JEREMYS/MYSCIONTC/GAUGES/4.jpg

http://sl-i.net/JEREMYS/MYSCIONTC/GAUGES/5.jpg

oh i wasn't suggesting you changed the odo reading somehow lol i was just saying some time passed between those pictures ..hopefully you didn't get 3500 miles too quickly lol

why isnt your odometer displaying anything desert?

It actually is, stupid camera for some reason blanked it out! It almost blanked out the hvac lcd readout. Man I love the new look. The "baby that just crapped after eating carrots look" was getting mega old.

engifineer, I cant wait to get my guages to you! LMK when oyu have a red/red picture available please. Also, when I send them to you, can ya do the needle red please : ) thanks! (cant wait, looks so good!)

It actually is, stupid camera for some reason blanked it out! It almost blanked out the hvac lcd readout. Man I love the new look. The "baby that just crapped after eating carrots look" was getting mega old.

polarized filter?

Naw cheapo olympus $199 new a year ago haha! It has an issue with blue light / long exposure times like that shot I took.

:flame: dammit! i want to hurry up and get them done! Hopefully sometime within this summer ill be headed to H-town to get them done! i wish i had the talent and patience for this!

my gauges will be everything amber will change to bright white and either red or blue needles? and do what "engifineer" did and do the ac from red to red/blue to blue! cant wait! Ill post pics as soon as i get them done!!!

Excuse the pictures, my camera sucks at night.

Wow! fantasatic job! :bow: excellent write up! I still dont have the nootz to try it! (they're coming soon enginifineer!) You must have a Sony camera! All my Sony cameras have always taken lousy pictures at night. It has to be high noon for it to take a decent picture. oh well, looks great, Im gonna get them done in red too as soon as I can ($)

ENGI is the man!!! the guages with the blue needles are mine they will be here tomorrow. like I said ENGI is the man good job bro.

^^ Glad you like them! IF they deliver on holidays there you should see them tomorrow. I checked the box for weekend and holiday delivery. If not they will be there tuesday for sure.

As far as the new LEDs are concerned, the blues I ordered came yesterday, but apparently they missed me and took them to the post office (they sent them registered mail). So I will go pick them up tuesday and test them. If they are all good, I will order what the people currently waiting need and get some times scheduled for everyone.

^^ thanks dave! just keep us updated!

I hope this hasn't been asked already...but which blue leds should be used from superbrightleds for the gauge cluster and center console? There are quite a few blue leds to choose from.

How important is viewing angle?

those are the wrong LEDs you need to use if you wanna do this mod. Those are only for 194/168/74/1157 type bulbs, not gauge cluster ones. Try this one out for the LEDs for this mod: http://lc-led.com/View/itemNumber/97

Those are the ones you need to properly do this mod.

Thanks to engifineer his HVAC mods worked perfect
I did it in a few hours. Lots of breaks in between.

Great instructions. Easy to follow.

engifineer: Im doing white everywhere but I wanted to do blue needles. I know I have to paint them blue but should I use a blue led under the needle? Or is it really not needed?

Also anyone know where to find purple smd for the cluster?

nd4spd_4_a_tc: just paint them blue. There is no "below the needle" LED and it requires too much modding for the little blue glow. Painting = win.

^^ Very true. I used the "Apple Barrel" neon blue paint I got from Michaels (Walmart sells the same brand I think) for the needles above. I am sure they would glow just as well with white below them. The light is just "Piped" into the needle via a part of the clear that faces down into the cluster. Just use nail polish remover, and be very patient, to remove the old paint. I then apply multiple coats of the blue until it comes out nice and even on the back of the needle. Make sure you take the needles apart before doing it or you will have orange spots where they meet the center.

An update on the new LEDs from Hong Kong. I didnt get them until yesterday, so I will set them up and run them at max today and tonight along with some from LC-LED. If the color looks right and they hold up I will start using them. Granted, there is no way to do a long term test on them without just using them, but typically if they can handle thier max or a little over it, for 20 hours or so straight then I dont have too many worries about them. If this is all good I will re-adjust my pricing and let everyone know. I would like to heat the oven to about 120 - 140 degrees and run them in there for a while to see how they handle it. That would really be a better test I think. I will update as soon as I figure somethign out.

wee!!! stick them in the oven! :P

thanks for the update.... very much awaiting on results

any word? :)

any1 in Houston knows how to do this? Let me know, im going there in 2 weeks for the weekend and been wanting to do this. "Cleancustoms" is knowhere to be found? Thanks!

I am pretty sure the new ones are decent LEDs. I couldnt get them in the oven, cause I had no good way to keep them powered (without sticking the power supply in there too) rather than batteries, which I would rather not keep that hot under load.

But, I ran them for about 6 hours right at their max rating (20 mA) one night, ran them two hours at 40 mA and 3 more hours directly after that at 65mA Which kept them hot enough that it hurt to touch them for that 3 hours :P They held up fine. I hooked them up directly beside the ones we use now, and they look to be the same hue and brightness. This does tell me that they really arent putting out the rated 500 mcd, but they are still matching up to what we are using.

Granted, I dont have a good way to simulate long term useage, but this was enough for me to start using them.

I have already questioned the supplier who says they can provide a steady supply and support large orders, so I will be having a big order come in soon I think and will be adjusting my prices accordingly.

ENGI is the man!!! the guages with the blue needles are mine they will be here tomorrow. like I said ENGI is the man good job bro.


Hey man, I have not been able to reach you for a week. I have the parts in to repair the damaged HVAC module you sent me, and need payment before doing the work and shipping them back. I have sent multiple emails to you regarding this. Please get in touch with me ASAP. Sorry to send this here, but it is the only other method I have. You mentioned in an email when you first told me you were sending the damaged module to me to call, but there was no number listed in the email.

Hey guys, I am now stocking the led's you need on my website www.garage1217.com Killer shipping price and priority mail is quick! Blue, Red, White and green are ready to ship out Tuesday! These are the 100% exact same brand / model that lc-led is selling. They are 350mcd and are 140 degree, not 120 according to the actual manufacturers spec sheet! I sell them cheaper than lc and also cheaper / faster shipping via priority mail at just $4.00 for any QTY!

lol u added an exclamation point at the end of the .com but great prices, thanks for the add of the leds!

man must have been excited "!!!!!" hahaha!

I swapped half my HVAC out for the new LEDs last night. The cheaper ones are a deeper shade of blue (wasnt that some cheasy 70's song? :P ) than the other ones are. I think it looks very nice, however, they do not match the underdash lighting a closely as the others do. But I really dont think that is much of an issue. I tried taking pics, but the color difference just doesnt show up well in them. They are closer to the blue that a VW uses for its dash.

hmm... cool.. thanks for the info dave!

hey guys i have a problem, i used viros way to do someones center console and i did the way of slicing a piece of the board and using the jumper cable way by connecting the speaker wire to both sides, and not everything is lighting up, the bottom left is lighting up perfect (the colors are blue by the way) and the lcd screen glows but only the left side lights up and the third doesnt, and the other leds dont work. What do i do?? i tried using different leds thinking it was that but nope, than i tried a diff speaker wire, and still nothing, than i tried to move the speaker wire and i soldered the leds that werent working on the board and they are very dim so i kno they work. whatt dooo iii dooo??????

help its mine....!

If you can put a photo up of the mod in its non-working state I can most likely tell you what the issue is pretty quick. Just make sure it is clear enough to see what is connected to what. Take a pic of the left side close up then the right and post them if possible.

The led's are in series from memory, sounds like one of them is bad causing part of them not to light up... does this sound correct engifineer..??

I would think that is possible except it sounds like more than three are out. It would be less probable he has two bad ones unless they were damaged on install. The leds are in sets of three. So the top three on the left are in series, the lower left two and the top right one are in series and the lower right three are in series. It sounds to me more like a wiring issue.

hmmm... gotcha.

he wil put up pics tonight..... hope you can help him fix my stuff...

I bet it is something off with the setup, I will watch for the pics to come up

anybody have an extra computer :)

extra HVAC module? What part do you need? I have some extra parts. I also have a whole center console bezel (vents stereo door, etc.) without the module I think I am going to sell as well. I have too many spare parts lying around :P

sorry for being late on the pix, but here they are, its daytime so hopefully you can see them, im sorry for them being blurry but my camera was dying so i had to take them really quick without focusing it.

http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g162/fishingexpert87/DSC02351.jpg
overall picture

http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g162/fishingexpert87/DSC02350.jpg
closer picture of the speaker wire connecting the two.

http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g162/fishingexpert87/DSC02346.jpg

http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g162/fishingexpert87/DSC02345.jpg

the ones under the lcd screen is hard to take a pic of, two of the ones under the lcd are working, the third isnt.

On the upper left three move the two jumpers down one led. The stock connection from the right side of the top LED (The cathode) to the left of the 2nd one down should be left as it was stock. You want to make the break in the circuit between the right side of the 2nd LED down and the left side of the third one down. Connect the left side of the 3rd LED to the left Side of the 2nd led, and connect the right side of the 2nd LED to the right side of the third led. Do the same thing to the ones on the right. The two jumpers should be connected between the 2nd and 3rd leds of each series, not the 1st and the second. I am betting you have the same issue on under the LCD. It looks like the LCD is bent outward too. Be VERY careful with that. when you lift up on it, it puts stress at the area where the pins enter the glass, this can cause a stress crack, which will hairline fracture the glass. The crack can be almost impossible to see, but will damage the LCD. I have had two people send me thiers to fix, and there was a crack exactly like I mention that caused theirs. so dont bend it back too far

alright man thanx, im gonna try it as soon as i finish eating right now. thanx again.

still doesnt work...!