Azure_Pearl_tc
12-10-2004, 09:09 PM
Here is how I installed my Scion tC TRD lowering springs and TRD sway bar. Disclaimer: This is not a “How To” post, therefore I do not recommend you do this yourself. I will not be liable for any problems, risk, injury, or damage you encounter if you try to imitate these procedures, which I do not advocate the imitation of the steps. This is just a log of how I performed my installation with pictures. This is also my first post. I don’t check emails or post often, it may take me some time to respond.
The ride is a bit rougher, but the response is much better. The TRD rear sway bar did make a bit of a difference. I really like the low and aggressive stance that the lowering springs give. In fact, it makes me enjoy my car even more. I definitely recommend lowering the car with the TRD lowering springs. Any lower, it may run into camber and tire wear problems. The tires don’t look so puny and narrow from behind after the car was lowered.
I needed some metric rachet wrench and wrench size 10mm to 22mm with a breaker bar. I also used an impact wrench with air compressor which makes the installation much faster. I also made sure I had jack stands with the proper safety jack supports and tire blocks. I also had screw drivers, pliers, and allen wrenches handy. Also, I rented a spring compressor from the local auto parts.
NOTE: on some pictures, the pictures may be of the left or the right side of the car, since I was not intending to take pictures initially. I had to reduce the picture size due to limitations of my account. Some terminology may be incorrect. It took about 5 hours with my brother’s (special thanks to ANT) help. That was a slow and easy pace.
Edit: here are some torque specs from a post by ScionDad. Thanks:
ScionDad
SL Member
St. Louis, MO
Posted: Tue Mar 01, 2005 3:52 pm Post subject:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
all numbers are listed in ft lbf, unless otherwise noted.
Lug Nuts : 76
Front Struts : center lock nut - 35
top mount - 38
bottom mount - 177
Front Stabalizer Bar : 55
Rear Shocks : center lock nut - 41
top mount - 59
bottom mount - 103
Rear Sway Bar : 32
Exhaust : 32 (every bolt from the manifold back is 32)
Clutch : clutch cover assembly - 14
release fork - 35
transaxle assembly - 'A' bolts - 47
'B' bolts - 34
'C' bolts - 32
Hood : mounting brackets - 10
front catch - 62 in lbf
1. I loosened the top three strut tower bolts. Some people say to remove the windshield wiper and plastic cover, but I was too lazy to do so. I just slid a wrench to work on the inside bolt. (yes, that is a home made intake coupler with a massive K&N filter on you see).
http://www.scionlife.com/gallery/personal/7390_1.jpghttp://www.scionlife.com/gallery/personal/7390_2.jpg
2. After jacking up the car and supporting it properly with support jacks and tire stops for safety, I removed the wheels. Then, I removed the 2 strut bolts and the tie rod bolt. I also removed the bolt that connects the brake line to the strut itself.
http://www.scionlife.com/gallery/personal/7390_3.jpg
3. After that, the whole strut/spring assembly can be removed by taking off the 3 top strut tower bolts from #1 above.
http://www.scionlife.com/gallery/personal/7390_4.jpg
4. I then compressed the spring until it was loose on the strut.
http://www.scionlife.com/gallery/personal/7390_6.jpg
5. Then, I removed the top strut shaft bolt. To access it, I had to pop the plastic cover from the top. I had to hold the strut assembly tightly. When I reassemble, the blue mark on the top plate will point outwards to the side of the car.
http://www.scionlife.com/gallery/personal/7390_7.jpg
6. I removed the top stop plate. Note: there is a square grove on the top plate that aligns with the strut shaft square grove. I had to make sure that it realigns when I reinstalled it.
http://www.scionlife.com/gallery/personal/7390_5.jpg
7. Once the spring and the top assembly are removed, I stuck the TRD spring on to see how it looks. Also, I cut the bump stop in half and only used the top portion to give more shock travel. It is not necessary for me to do this, but since I have done others before, it helps so the shocks don’t bottom out so quickly. If I plan to install 19in rims, I might not do this.
http://www.scionlife.com/gallery/personal/7390_8.jpghttp://www.scionlife.com/gallery/personal/7390_9.jpg
8. Then, I compressed the TRD spring to then reinstall the shock/strut assembly. I took care not to damage the coating on the spring. It is not good for it to peel and rust! Impact wrench is great! I had to make sure that the spring end/tips match the groves on the strut top and bottom plates. Also, I had to make sure that the square grove of the top plate aligns with the square grove of the strut shaft. If I had TRD struts/shocks, I would install it here. But since I didn’t want an even rougher ride, I just installed the stock strut/shock.
http://www.scionlife.com/gallery/personal/7390_10.jpg
9. I reinstalled the strut assembly with the TRD springs. I had to make sure all the bolts are tightened to specifications: the strut 2 bolts, the tie rod bolt, the brake line attachment bolt, and the 3 top strut tower bolts. The wheel was reinstalled and the other side springs were installed.
http://www.scionlife.com/gallery/personal/7390_11.jpg
MY REAR LOWERING SPRING AND REAR SWAY BAR INSTALLATION
10. As for the rear spring assembly, I had to remove some interior carpet, foam containers, plastic cross-member, etc. in order to access the top 3 strut bolts. Here, I removed the plastic retainer bolt (the plastic piece pointing up) to remove the plastic cross-member piece. To remove the plastic cross-member, I gave it a strong yank and it came off of its pin retainers.
http://www.scionlife.com/gallery/personal/7390_12.jpghttp://www.scionlife.com/gallery/personal/7390_16.jpg
11. Pieces removed.
http://www.scionlife.com/gallery/personal/7390_13.jpghttp://www.scionlife.com/gallery/personal/7390_17.jpg
12. Then I loosened the 2 visible top strut bolts. I had to use a breaker bar to help me loosen the bolts. I did both sides at once since I was going to jack up both sides to save some time.
http://www.scionlife.com/gallery/personal/7390_18.jpg
13. The third bolt took some patience. I also used a breaker bar to help loosen the bolt. I did not remove all the carpet because I was lazy, you could say. Some say it is good to remove the side wall carpet. I believe in minimal work and damage to other interior parts=)
http://www.scionlife.com/gallery/personal/7390_19.jpg
14. Then, I jacked up both sides of the car since I had to jacks and proper support and tire stops for safety purposes. Of course, I had to remove the wheels. Next, I removed the lower strut bolt. It is extremely tough to remove, so I used a breaker bar. Once removed, I then removed the 3 top strut bolts and took the strut/spring assembly out. It took some maneuvering. I had to remove the speed sensor plug just to make sure I don’t break the cable while trying to maneuver and remove the strut/spring assembly. I don’t have a picture of it, sorry, but it is easily seen.
http://www.scionlife.com/gallery/personal/7390_20.jpghttp://www.scionlife.com/gallery/personal/7390_21.jpg
15. Side track: I removed the sway bar bolt to prepare for the sway bar installation and to make it easier to access the lower strut bolt.
http://www.scionlife.com/gallery/personal/7390_22.jpg
16. Side track: Since I was going to install the TRD rear sway bar, I also removed the main two sway bar bolts that hold the sway bar couplers. Then, I just carefully pulled the old stock sway bar out towards the muffler piping side. This was a puzzle to pull out.
http://www.scionlife.com/gallery/personal/7390_23.jpg
17. Here is what the strut/spring assembly looks like. I am also demonstrating that the alignment of the top assembly must be reinstalled to the lower assembly with exactness. I just took a ruler and marked the top part with a spot on the lower assembly. From my middle finger to my thumb, there is a slight offset that has to be kept the same when reinstalling. This is important so that when I reinstalled the assembly onto the car, I wouldn’t have to shift the springs back and forth to align the spring end/tips onto the proper place/grove on the top plates and the lower plates of the strut.
http://www.scionlife.com/gallery/personal/7390_14.jpg
18. Next, I compressed the original spring until loosened and removed the top assembly of the strut. I had to use the Allen wrench to hold the strut shaft and a wrench to remove the top bolt.
http://www.scionlife.com/gallery/personal/7390_15.jpg
19. Then I reinstalled exactly as how I removed the rear strut/spring assembly with the TRD springs. Essentially, compress the TRD springs and reassembled the strut parts. I did not cut the bump stop on the rear assembly. Note the height and thickness difference of the TRD springs vs stock springs.
http://www.scionlife.com/gallery/personal/7390_25.jpghttp://www.scionlife.com/gallery/personal/7390_24.jpg
20. Next, I reinstalled the lower and top 3 strut bolts. I loosely screw on the top 3 bolts and then align the lower bolt to the body. I had to make sure it was aligned and it took some shifting. I tightened to spec’s all bolts.
21. Side track: I installed the TRD rear sway bar main coupler bolts on both sides after maneuvering the TRD sway bar back into position. The coupler was smeared with the included grease for movement. Then, I tightened the sway bar bolts to the outside hole for street ride. The inside holes are for race, rougher ride.
http://www.scionlife.com/gallery/personal/7390_26.jpghttp://www.scionlife.com/gallery/personal/7390_27.jpg
22. Here are some before and after pictures. It looks a lot better now since the TRD springs have settled. The after picture was right after and is not so good. It looks a lot better in person, though!
http://www.scionlife.com/gallery/personal/7390_28.jpghttp://www.scionlife.com/gallery/personal/7390_29.jpg
http://www.scionlife.com/gallery/personal/7390_30.jpg
You can also view slightly large pictures at: http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/chungsterly/my_photos
Thanks for your help on posting the pix guys.
What do you guys think about the info? Total price was $195 with shipping included already for the TRD springs and TRD sway bar.
The ride is a bit rougher, but the response is much better. The TRD rear sway bar did make a bit of a difference. I really like the low and aggressive stance that the lowering springs give. In fact, it makes me enjoy my car even more. I definitely recommend lowering the car with the TRD lowering springs. Any lower, it may run into camber and tire wear problems. The tires don’t look so puny and narrow from behind after the car was lowered.
I needed some metric rachet wrench and wrench size 10mm to 22mm with a breaker bar. I also used an impact wrench with air compressor which makes the installation much faster. I also made sure I had jack stands with the proper safety jack supports and tire blocks. I also had screw drivers, pliers, and allen wrenches handy. Also, I rented a spring compressor from the local auto parts.
NOTE: on some pictures, the pictures may be of the left or the right side of the car, since I was not intending to take pictures initially. I had to reduce the picture size due to limitations of my account. Some terminology may be incorrect. It took about 5 hours with my brother’s (special thanks to ANT) help. That was a slow and easy pace.
Edit: here are some torque specs from a post by ScionDad. Thanks:
ScionDad
SL Member
St. Louis, MO
Posted: Tue Mar 01, 2005 3:52 pm Post subject:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
all numbers are listed in ft lbf, unless otherwise noted.
Lug Nuts : 76
Front Struts : center lock nut - 35
top mount - 38
bottom mount - 177
Front Stabalizer Bar : 55
Rear Shocks : center lock nut - 41
top mount - 59
bottom mount - 103
Rear Sway Bar : 32
Exhaust : 32 (every bolt from the manifold back is 32)
Clutch : clutch cover assembly - 14
release fork - 35
transaxle assembly - 'A' bolts - 47
'B' bolts - 34
'C' bolts - 32
Hood : mounting brackets - 10
front catch - 62 in lbf
1. I loosened the top three strut tower bolts. Some people say to remove the windshield wiper and plastic cover, but I was too lazy to do so. I just slid a wrench to work on the inside bolt. (yes, that is a home made intake coupler with a massive K&N filter on you see).
http://www.scionlife.com/gallery/personal/7390_1.jpghttp://www.scionlife.com/gallery/personal/7390_2.jpg
2. After jacking up the car and supporting it properly with support jacks and tire stops for safety, I removed the wheels. Then, I removed the 2 strut bolts and the tie rod bolt. I also removed the bolt that connects the brake line to the strut itself.
http://www.scionlife.com/gallery/personal/7390_3.jpg
3. After that, the whole strut/spring assembly can be removed by taking off the 3 top strut tower bolts from #1 above.
http://www.scionlife.com/gallery/personal/7390_4.jpg
4. I then compressed the spring until it was loose on the strut.
http://www.scionlife.com/gallery/personal/7390_6.jpg
5. Then, I removed the top strut shaft bolt. To access it, I had to pop the plastic cover from the top. I had to hold the strut assembly tightly. When I reassemble, the blue mark on the top plate will point outwards to the side of the car.
http://www.scionlife.com/gallery/personal/7390_7.jpg
6. I removed the top stop plate. Note: there is a square grove on the top plate that aligns with the strut shaft square grove. I had to make sure that it realigns when I reinstalled it.
http://www.scionlife.com/gallery/personal/7390_5.jpg
7. Once the spring and the top assembly are removed, I stuck the TRD spring on to see how it looks. Also, I cut the bump stop in half and only used the top portion to give more shock travel. It is not necessary for me to do this, but since I have done others before, it helps so the shocks don’t bottom out so quickly. If I plan to install 19in rims, I might not do this.
http://www.scionlife.com/gallery/personal/7390_8.jpghttp://www.scionlife.com/gallery/personal/7390_9.jpg
8. Then, I compressed the TRD spring to then reinstall the shock/strut assembly. I took care not to damage the coating on the spring. It is not good for it to peel and rust! Impact wrench is great! I had to make sure that the spring end/tips match the groves on the strut top and bottom plates. Also, I had to make sure that the square grove of the top plate aligns with the square grove of the strut shaft. If I had TRD struts/shocks, I would install it here. But since I didn’t want an even rougher ride, I just installed the stock strut/shock.
http://www.scionlife.com/gallery/personal/7390_10.jpg
9. I reinstalled the strut assembly with the TRD springs. I had to make sure all the bolts are tightened to specifications: the strut 2 bolts, the tie rod bolt, the brake line attachment bolt, and the 3 top strut tower bolts. The wheel was reinstalled and the other side springs were installed.
http://www.scionlife.com/gallery/personal/7390_11.jpg
MY REAR LOWERING SPRING AND REAR SWAY BAR INSTALLATION
10. As for the rear spring assembly, I had to remove some interior carpet, foam containers, plastic cross-member, etc. in order to access the top 3 strut bolts. Here, I removed the plastic retainer bolt (the plastic piece pointing up) to remove the plastic cross-member piece. To remove the plastic cross-member, I gave it a strong yank and it came off of its pin retainers.
http://www.scionlife.com/gallery/personal/7390_12.jpghttp://www.scionlife.com/gallery/personal/7390_16.jpg
11. Pieces removed.
http://www.scionlife.com/gallery/personal/7390_13.jpghttp://www.scionlife.com/gallery/personal/7390_17.jpg
12. Then I loosened the 2 visible top strut bolts. I had to use a breaker bar to help me loosen the bolts. I did both sides at once since I was going to jack up both sides to save some time.
http://www.scionlife.com/gallery/personal/7390_18.jpg
13. The third bolt took some patience. I also used a breaker bar to help loosen the bolt. I did not remove all the carpet because I was lazy, you could say. Some say it is good to remove the side wall carpet. I believe in minimal work and damage to other interior parts=)
http://www.scionlife.com/gallery/personal/7390_19.jpg
14. Then, I jacked up both sides of the car since I had to jacks and proper support and tire stops for safety purposes. Of course, I had to remove the wheels. Next, I removed the lower strut bolt. It is extremely tough to remove, so I used a breaker bar. Once removed, I then removed the 3 top strut bolts and took the strut/spring assembly out. It took some maneuvering. I had to remove the speed sensor plug just to make sure I don’t break the cable while trying to maneuver and remove the strut/spring assembly. I don’t have a picture of it, sorry, but it is easily seen.
http://www.scionlife.com/gallery/personal/7390_20.jpghttp://www.scionlife.com/gallery/personal/7390_21.jpg
15. Side track: I removed the sway bar bolt to prepare for the sway bar installation and to make it easier to access the lower strut bolt.
http://www.scionlife.com/gallery/personal/7390_22.jpg
16. Side track: Since I was going to install the TRD rear sway bar, I also removed the main two sway bar bolts that hold the sway bar couplers. Then, I just carefully pulled the old stock sway bar out towards the muffler piping side. This was a puzzle to pull out.
http://www.scionlife.com/gallery/personal/7390_23.jpg
17. Here is what the strut/spring assembly looks like. I am also demonstrating that the alignment of the top assembly must be reinstalled to the lower assembly with exactness. I just took a ruler and marked the top part with a spot on the lower assembly. From my middle finger to my thumb, there is a slight offset that has to be kept the same when reinstalling. This is important so that when I reinstalled the assembly onto the car, I wouldn’t have to shift the springs back and forth to align the spring end/tips onto the proper place/grove on the top plates and the lower plates of the strut.
http://www.scionlife.com/gallery/personal/7390_14.jpg
18. Next, I compressed the original spring until loosened and removed the top assembly of the strut. I had to use the Allen wrench to hold the strut shaft and a wrench to remove the top bolt.
http://www.scionlife.com/gallery/personal/7390_15.jpg
19. Then I reinstalled exactly as how I removed the rear strut/spring assembly with the TRD springs. Essentially, compress the TRD springs and reassembled the strut parts. I did not cut the bump stop on the rear assembly. Note the height and thickness difference of the TRD springs vs stock springs.
http://www.scionlife.com/gallery/personal/7390_25.jpghttp://www.scionlife.com/gallery/personal/7390_24.jpg
20. Next, I reinstalled the lower and top 3 strut bolts. I loosely screw on the top 3 bolts and then align the lower bolt to the body. I had to make sure it was aligned and it took some shifting. I tightened to spec’s all bolts.
21. Side track: I installed the TRD rear sway bar main coupler bolts on both sides after maneuvering the TRD sway bar back into position. The coupler was smeared with the included grease for movement. Then, I tightened the sway bar bolts to the outside hole for street ride. The inside holes are for race, rougher ride.
http://www.scionlife.com/gallery/personal/7390_26.jpghttp://www.scionlife.com/gallery/personal/7390_27.jpg
22. Here are some before and after pictures. It looks a lot better now since the TRD springs have settled. The after picture was right after and is not so good. It looks a lot better in person, though!
http://www.scionlife.com/gallery/personal/7390_28.jpghttp://www.scionlife.com/gallery/personal/7390_29.jpg
http://www.scionlife.com/gallery/personal/7390_30.jpg
You can also view slightly large pictures at: http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/chungsterly/my_photos
Thanks for your help on posting the pix guys.
What do you guys think about the info? Total price was $195 with shipping included already for the TRD springs and TRD sway bar.