Here's a quick how to guide to installing springs on the xD with hand tools. You can also follow the steps here to replace the struts.

FRONTS-

-remove the wiper arms. 14mm nuts under the cover
-remove the wiper cowl. one pop-off plastic clip on each end, plus a bunch of clips in between. pushing up against the windshield helps.
-remove the wiper motor. two 10mm bolts (black) and one clip on the wire
-remove the cowl brace. on the passenger side there is a small plastic piece held with two clips. you can leave the center piece alone. ten 10mm bolts total.
-pry off the dust cover from the strut top
-using a 17mm box and a 6mm allen socket, box the nut and turn the strut shaft clockwise to loosen the strut nut. leave it threaded in
-jack the car up and remove the wheels
-spray some pb blaster on the end link
-remove the 14mm bolt holding the brake/abs lines
-remove the 19mm nuts on the strut bottoms. leave the bolts in place for now
-remove the 17mm nut on the end link. there are two ways to attack this. either box the endlink shaft with a 6mm allen and crack the nut with a box wrench, or use a breaker bar on the nut and risk screwing up the end link. your call.
-support the strut and remove the strut bolts
-remove the strut nut on top
-manuver the end link out of the way and remove the strut. remove the upper strut pieces
-rest the strut on a soft surface (grass).
-using a 6mm allen and 17mm box, loosen the nut on the end. before removing the nut, wrap the upper strut with a towel
-after the spring shoots out, remove the spring, bump stop and dust boot.
-if you are replacing the strut, remove the gland nut and replace the cartridge. you may have to get creative to remove the gland nut if it is stuck.
-install new spring, noting orientation. then install dust boot and bump stop.
-install upper strut mount and nut, tighten
-the rest is the reverse of the above.

REARS-

-jack up rear end, remove wheels
-use another jack to load the spring.
-unbolt the strut (14mm nut/bolt)
-loosen the jack and repeat on the other side.
-remove the spring by compressing with your hands and pulling towards the rear of the car. the top of the spring should come out first. transfer the upper rubber insulation to the new spring.
-install new spring, noting orientation. seat the bottom first, then top.
-now is the time to replace the strut as well, pop off the covers in the hatch and unbolt.
-to install the strut, line it up with the arm then load the spring with the jack until the holes line up. then install the bolt/nut
-install wheels

Total job should take no more than 1.5 hours for all four corners. This is one of the easier cars to work on (minus the cowl/wiper removal).

Don't ask for pics, I'm not going to go through that again just for pics.

HTH

i was able to fit my 6mm allen key into the top of the strut without having to remove any of the windshield wiper components, saved me A LOT of time.

Do you by chance have picture of the install? that would be very helpful to most of us. But of course I appreciate the write up

As pickled says. With an offset 17mm and stubby allen the cowl can stay put. Definitely an easy install. trdsparks.com posts the install pdf for trd springs on their site if you want a few pix/drawings to eyeball.

Is installing coil overs much more work than just springs ?

Is installing coil overs much more work than just springs ?

Fronts shouldn't be a problem. The rears may be tricky, I haven't seen rear coilovers for the xD yet so I don't know where they mount to.

It seems Toyota included a higher mounting point for the rear torsion beam, has anyone tried using that?

Hey Breadbooze, did you install the DF210s I sold you?

Post a pic of the finished job if you get a chance - i would love to see the finished product. I chickened out on the big drop and bought the TRDs.

- David

EXCELLENT POST!

Using your description, I did the entire TRD Sportivo suspension upgrade (Springs, Shock, Struts, Sway) Your directions were spot on!

I tried to do the stubby allen shortcut, but couldn't break the nut free so I went ahead and removed the wiper cowl. It wasn't that bad, and it came back together easily and cleanly.

As a novice, the job took me about three hours, I am sure I could probably cut that in half if I had to do it again.

nice! how does she handle now? lots better i bet! do you have any pics?

The DF210's are pretty good, great for the street. Not stiff enough for auto x-ing, but my passengers aren't complaining. That plus the TRD sway bar helped cut down understeer a ton. It's almost at "neutral understeer", though I can still make the front end plow on demand. I will probably upgrade the struts later on and get some better tires, these 4 seasons dont stick too well.

I will post a pic later when there is daylight out.

Stuck with full TRD suspension. The kit came with the TRD Sportivo rear emblem which I am now entitled to wear! The car is no longer a mini sport utility vehicle. The ride quality is undiminished but the handling tightness is definitely increased. The car no longer feels top heavy. I am very pleased with the package. Parts were around $850 from TRDsparks.com. The labor wasn't difficult.

http://www.burkinc.com/IMG_4183.JPG

Should the alignment be redone after?

alignment really never gets severely misaligned when lowering a car, despite what most people say. unless you really mess up and knock something around quite a bit while youre doing the install, theres going to be nothing that you'll notice.

Should the alignment be redone after?

Yes it should. Depending on the drop, you will experience different degrees of tire wear.

I waited until my next scheduled service. The car was definitely off spec alignment as a result of lowering.