n/a with bolt ons getting old
n/a with bolt ons getting old. hey guys im getting really bored and its getting really old running I/H/E/P. thinking about just putting the car back stock. tired of worrying about $hit and tired of fixing lil things here and there trying to make it go fast. main thing of all is im tired of the header. probably gonna try and get rid of my header and just get a factory one and put it on there and just run an axle back exhaust. it was fun at first but im just tired of it. also probably going to end up selling my a-power pulley and my ingalls ETD. have had ingalls ETD for about 6 months now but was only hooked up for about a week. just left it on the car unhooked. and pulley is about 6 months old as well. im big about the warranty thing so if i do anything else for power it would be the s/c but nothing more. im pretty much just gonna make it look real nice and everything. what do u guys think?
I think when you get rid of the header, and regain some sanity/eardrums... you'll like your car more again.
That's the predicament I had. That loud-___ header was the one thing that kept me from enjoying my car.
Just take it off and see. I think you'll like your car again.
That's the predicament I had. That loud-___ header was the one thing that kept me from enjoying my car.
Just take it off and see. I think you'll like your car again.
the header and ____ dont make a big difference. so why dump more money into the exhaust for no reason. its better to get rid of it, make money, and put it into other areas that he might enjoy more. a cat-back tanabe is the nicest sounding exhaust EVER!
The over-riding factor is personal preference.
I had a header for about a month... i HATED it. I didn't care that I was 1/2 a second or less faster in a quartermile... I cared that I looked and sounded like a f'ing ricer.
I say, take it off. Sell it if possible, and put the money where he WILL enjoy it. May I suggest suspension?
Biggest bang for buck.
I had a header for about a month... i HATED it. I didn't care that I was 1/2 a second or less faster in a quartermile... I cared that I looked and sounded like a f'ing ricer.
I say, take it off. Sell it if possible, and put the money where he WILL enjoy it. May I suggest suspension?
Biggest bang for buck.
Originally Posted by josh4201
What if there was a way to quiet your exhaust like a bigger resinator or something? I think a car should be fast before it looks fast, just my 2 cents. Good luck.
He will most likely notice very, very little change by taking it back to stock, and if he is sick of the loudness, he will like it even more.
thanks guys for all the info. header is put up for sale and im trying to sell it. same for the ETD. ima keep my cold air intake cause i just love that thing and do a 2.5" s pipe back exhaust thats factory header with 2.5" s pipe, midpipe, and tanabe concept g. real awesome sound outta it with none of that crap rasp and have my low end power back and prob be just as quick as i am now if not faster but it really dont matter. next its coil overs with cf hood and hatch and gonna get some nice rims and tires and be done with it. look good and sound good and still be fast. i beat I/H/E tcs at the track all night once and i was only running a catback and a crappy intake. so thats what im going for. FORGET THE HEADER. im no ricer.
Originally Posted by youngflyer
the header and poop dont make a big difference. so why dump more money into the exhaust for no reason. its better to get rid of it, make money, and put it into other areas that he might enjoy more. a cat-back tanabe is the nicest sounding exhaust EVER!
99.99999999% of the time it will get you 15 or less, not 20-25. And even then, it shifts power a lot more than it adds power, so overall you are barely faster (sometimes not faster at all depending on what you are doing) than stock. This has shown true a million times over.. regardless of they dyno sheets vendors and manufacturers show you to talk you into buying something.
Honestly, I say dump the IH and maybe keep the E just for sound. Then spend $1000 or so on the following:
- Some good springs that are stiffer than stock. Make sure the drop is close to but optimally not more than 1.4" from stock (That seems to be the perfect drop geometry wise for this car)
- A stiffer rear sway
- Some good tires.
Those three items will make it handle like a completely different car. You will get about a million times more enjoyment out of the handling increase than you will with the minimal-at-best bolt on power gains. You will feel it in every corner, not to mention you can enjoy the tight handling even without having to go out and drive like a moron. And if you run TRD springs, TRD or progress rear sway you will still have a decent ride, so you wont sacrifice too much of the daily driver comfort.
If you dont plan on changing ride height alot or actually corner balancing the car and fine tuning the suspension (even if you track the car a lot, it takes a lot of experimentation and trial and error to best use the tunability) then dont waste your money on coilovers. Find a set of springs with the ride height you need and the stiffness to match and save yourself about $1000 ;)
Honestly, I say dump the IH and maybe keep the E just for sound. Then spend $1000 or so on the following:
- Some good springs that are stiffer than stock. Make sure the drop is close to but optimally not more than 1.4" from stock (That seems to be the perfect drop geometry wise for this car)
- A stiffer rear sway
- Some good tires.
Those three items will make it handle like a completely different car. You will get about a million times more enjoyment out of the handling increase than you will with the minimal-at-best bolt on power gains. You will feel it in every corner, not to mention you can enjoy the tight handling even without having to go out and drive like a moron. And if you run TRD springs, TRD or progress rear sway you will still have a decent ride, so you wont sacrifice too much of the daily driver comfort.
If you dont plan on changing ride height alot or actually corner balancing the car and fine tuning the suspension (even if you track the car a lot, it takes a lot of experimentation and trial and error to best use the tunability) then dont waste your money on coilovers. Find a set of springs with the ride height you need and the stiffness to match and save yourself about $1000 ;)
Originally Posted by engifineer
99.99999999% of the time it will get you 15 or less, not 20-25. And even then, it shifts power a lot more than it adds power, so overall you are barely faster (sometimes not faster at all depending on what you are doing) than stock. This has shown true a million times over.. regardless of they dyno sheets vendors and manufacturers show you to talk you into buying something.
Honestly, I say dump the IH and maybe keep the E just for sound. Then spend $1000 or so on the following:
- Some good springs that are stiffer than stock. Make sure the drop is close to but optimally not more than 1.4" from stock (That seems to be the perfect drop geometry wise for this car)
- A stiffer rear sway
- Some good tires.
Those three items will make it handle like a completely different car. You will get about a million times more enjoyment out of the handling increase than you will with the minimal-at-best bolt on power gains. You will feel it in every corner, not to mention you can enjoy the tight handling even without having to go out and drive like a moron. And if you run TRD springs, TRD or progress rear sway you will still have a decent ride, so you wont sacrifice too much of the daily driver comfort.
If you dont plan on changing ride height alot or actually corner balancing the car and fine tuning the suspension (even if you track the car a lot, it takes a lot of experimentation and trial and error to best use the tunability) then dont waste your money on coilovers. Find a set of springs with the ride height you need and the stiffness to match and save yourself about $1000 ;)
Honestly, I say dump the IH and maybe keep the E just for sound. Then spend $1000 or so on the following:
- Some good springs that are stiffer than stock. Make sure the drop is close to but optimally not more than 1.4" from stock (That seems to be the perfect drop geometry wise for this car)
- A stiffer rear sway
- Some good tires.
Those three items will make it handle like a completely different car. You will get about a million times more enjoyment out of the handling increase than you will with the minimal-at-best bolt on power gains. You will feel it in every corner, not to mention you can enjoy the tight handling even without having to go out and drive like a moron. And if you run TRD springs, TRD or progress rear sway you will still have a decent ride, so you wont sacrifice too much of the daily driver comfort.
If you dont plan on changing ride height alot or actually corner balancing the car and fine tuning the suspension (even if you track the car a lot, it takes a lot of experimentation and trial and error to best use the tunability) then dont waste your money on coilovers. Find a set of springs with the ride height you need and the stiffness to match and save yourself about $1000 ;)
engifineer, ima do tein basic coilovers with the hotchkis swaybar set (i've read your posts on how to tune it for street performance).. anything else you recommend for even better handling for street performance?
I'm sure he'd agree that tires are the #1 upgrade for performance of ANY type.
If you've got the money, Azenis / RE-01R's / Z1 Starspecs will do far more for your handling than any and all suspension modifications put together. NEVER SKIMP ON TIRES.
Throw in the fact that if you drag race, you can launch harder, and won't lose time spinning tires in 2nd.
The analogy is... your car is a track sprinter, making its way around a track. Change out his badass gold Nike's for 10 year old, worn-out airwalks. Without specifically designed running shoes, he'll lose every time, if not fall flat on his face.
If you've got the money, Azenis / RE-01R's / Z1 Starspecs will do far more for your handling than any and all suspension modifications put together. NEVER SKIMP ON TIRES.
Throw in the fact that if you drag race, you can launch harder, and won't lose time spinning tires in 2nd.
The analogy is... your car is a track sprinter, making its way around a track. Change out his badass gold Nike's for 10 year old, worn-out airwalks. Without specifically designed running shoes, he'll lose every time, if not fall flat on his face.
Best Motoring tire battle, between some of the best street tires on the market.
Every miata is the same, but the tires are different. Notice how that makes a HUGE difference, a little at first, then by leaps and bounds at the end.
No CAI or exhaust will ever do this.
http://hfortysixit.wordpress.com/200...an-neova-ad07/
Every miata is the same, but the tires are different. Notice how that makes a HUGE difference, a little at first, then by leaps and bounds at the end.
No CAI or exhaust will ever do this.
http://hfortysixit.wordpress.com/200...an-neova-ad07/





