Did a complete brake job today.
The other day I noticed a grinding noise from the left front, so I decided to pull the wheel a look.
I was metal to metal.
33200 miles was all I got out of the front pads, and I baby the heck out of it, and of course, the rotors were shot too. So I decided to do the rears shoes also, although the really didn't need changed.
Couple of things I learned:
Those little bitty rotors on the fronts, are some of the most expensive, hard to find,I've seen in a while. I finally let Pepboys order me a set (made in China) and that took a day, for more than 1/2 the price of the OEM rotors. Most of the dealerships in the area were out of stock also. I figured if I am only going to get such a small service life out of the brakes, I might as well go cheap on the rotors. I bought the OEM pads, though.
The rear shoes are a bear to do. I finally used two pair of locking C clamp pliers to hold both shoes in place against the backing plates, because every time I tried to remove the return springs, the shoes would move and push the pistons out of the brake cylinder and then they would leak fluid.
They way they have the spring attached to the shoes, you almost need the factory "special tools" listed in the manual.
I was metal to metal.
33200 miles was all I got out of the front pads, and I baby the heck out of it, and of course, the rotors were shot too. So I decided to do the rears shoes also, although the really didn't need changed.
Couple of things I learned:
Those little bitty rotors on the fronts, are some of the most expensive, hard to find,I've seen in a while. I finally let Pepboys order me a set (made in China) and that took a day, for more than 1/2 the price of the OEM rotors. Most of the dealerships in the area were out of stock also. I figured if I am only going to get such a small service life out of the brakes, I might as well go cheap on the rotors. I bought the OEM pads, though.
The rear shoes are a bear to do. I finally used two pair of locking C clamp pliers to hold both shoes in place against the backing plates, because every time I tried to remove the return springs, the shoes would move and push the pistons out of the brake cylinder and then they would leak fluid.
They way they have the spring attached to the shoes, you almost need the factory "special tools" listed in the manual.
Wow, 33K miles!
I only got 17K out of my first set! LA stop and go I guess!
OEM pads are great. No noise and other fitment issues. Pricey, but no headaches and don't have to redo anything.
Rotors are available on the 'Bay. Not too bad vs stealership prices. Just gotta plan ahead!
I'm at 40K now, I just looked and the pads are close! Already have a new set in hand!
DIY FTW!
Robert
I only got 17K out of my first set! LA stop and go I guess!
OEM pads are great. No noise and other fitment issues. Pricey, but no headaches and don't have to redo anything.
Rotors are available on the 'Bay. Not too bad vs stealership prices. Just gotta plan ahead!
I'm at 40K now, I just looked and the pads are close! Already have a new set in hand!
DIY FTW!
Robert
never go cheap on your brake parts!!!!
you get what you pay for...
FWIW
brakes are 1 thing you do not want to cheap out on
did you have your parking brake on when you did your rears?..it alomost sounds like it to me
you get what you pay for...
FWIW
brakes are 1 thing you do not want to cheap out on
did you have your parking brake on when you did your rears?..it alomost sounds like it to me
Davestoaster
yu must have known that your pads were wearing...the wear indicators squeal
that squealing noise..is your old pads begging you to replace them....
they screech...replace me now..or it will cost you
yu must have known that your pads were wearing...the wear indicators squeal
that squealing noise..is your old pads begging you to replace them....
they screech...replace me now..or it will cost you
Senior Member



Music City Scions
SL Member
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 11,808
From: West TN - Land of twisty roads
Rotors are easily had on ebay for under 100 bucks.
http://shop.ebay.com/?_from=R40&_trk...All-Categories
http://shop.ebay.com/?_from=R40&_trk...All-Categories
I got 22k on the stock fronts with an auto. The wear indicator broke off the left front, so I found out the old fashioned way...lol. I was crazy lucky to find a brand new set of the good aftermarket drilled and slotted rotors, along with a set of the really good ceramic aftermarket pads. This setup varies on ebay from 110 to 140+ Id have to say. The only thing good to come from the philly craigs list was this, a steal at 40 bucks out the door! And they have even better stopping power that oem. Ive looked at the pads after about 10k, and they look as though they havent been used, and there is so little dust on the wheels. I have a complete set of new oem brake pads and had the dealer cut the stock rotors, but I have a feeling Ill never need them any time soon, unless there is an emergency.
Seems like the highest mileage is on manuals, and the lowest on autos. At least from the few posts on this thread.
I wanted to do the slotted rotors, and ceramic pads, but I just could not justify the extra cost.
I guess if the second set of OEM stuff only lasts another 30000 miles, well then I made a bad decision and lost.
I wanted to do the slotted rotors, and ceramic pads, but I just could not justify the extra cost.
I guess if the second set of OEM stuff only lasts another 30000 miles, well then I made a bad decision and lost.
Senior Member



Music City Scions
SL Member
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 11,808
From: West TN - Land of twisty roads
Originally Posted by Davestoaster
I wanted to do the slotted rotors, and ceramic pads, but I just could not justify the extra cost.
I guess if the second set of OEM stuff only lasts another 30000 miles, well then I made a bad decision and lost.
i got a whopping........... drum roll please.......
14k miles on my stock pads! i had the dealer put in new ones cuz i was in a hurry (cost me nearly $400 for pads and 'resurfacing' the rotors!)
the next time i had to replace the front pads, i did the rears as well. this was at 25k miles.
i bought the pads and shoes and went to a local shop to had them installed. the cost of the part s+ installation came out to under 200.
14k miles on my stock pads! i had the dealer put in new ones cuz i was in a hurry (cost me nearly $400 for pads and 'resurfacing' the rotors!)
the next time i had to replace the front pads, i did the rears as well. this was at 25k miles.
i bought the pads and shoes and went to a local shop to had them installed. the cost of the part s+ installation came out to under 200.
first pads here lasted 14k miles. absolute junk, after 3 sets i finally went to slotted rotors and axxis pads. so far i dont see any wear after 8k on them. im only at 56,000 miles now btw. im in a manual too btw. rotors and brakes cost a total of about 220$ (powerslot/axxis)
free install DIY!!!!
free install DIY!!!!
Senior Member



Music City Scions
SL Member
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 11,808
From: West TN - Land of twisty roads
Originally Posted by richmond2000
I have found "cheeper / will fit " rotors for toyotas/ hondas tend to warp badly the first hi-way panic braking - and are not very machinable (not a lot of MEAT)
Originally Posted by bB2NER
Originally Posted by richmond2000
I have found "cheeper / will fit " rotors for toyotas/ hondas tend to warp badly the first hi-way panic braking - and are not very machinable (not a lot of MEAT)
The inspection guy I take my car to said he got rid of his brake rotor cutting lathe because after a certain year, (can't remember what year) the manufacturer no longer allow cutting down and resurfacing of rotors. They all have to be replaced with new ones. He says there is less and less cars on the road that allow cutting of the rotors so it no longer paid to have the machine and to rick a lawsuit from some idiot. He said he has to fail anyone who has their rotors cut after a certain year.
I never checked this out to be true or not, so I just replaced mine.
Maybe someone need to check the internet on the final answer on cutting down of the original rotors.




