The other day I noticed a grinding noise from the left front, so I decided to pull the wheel a look.

I was metal to metal.

33200 miles was all I got out of the front pads, and I baby the heck out of it, and of course, the rotors were shot too. So I decided to do the rears shoes also, although the really didn't need changed.

Couple of things I learned:

Those little bitty rotors on the fronts, are some of the most expensive, hard to find,I've seen in a while. I finally let Pepboys order me a set (made in China) and that took a day, for more than 1/2 the price of the OEM rotors. Most of the dealerships in the area were out of stock also. I figured if I am only going to get such a small service life out of the brakes, I might as well go cheap on the rotors. I bought the OEM pads, though.

The rear shoes are a bear to do. I finally used two pair of locking C clamp pliers to hold both shoes in place against the backing plates, because every time I tried to remove the return springs, the shoes would move and push the pistons out of the brake cylinder and then they would leak fluid.

They way they have the spring attached to the shoes, you almost need the factory "special tools" listed in the manual.

Wow, 33K miles!

I only got 17K out of my first set! LA stop and go I guess!

OEM pads are great. No noise and other fitment issues. Pricey, but no headaches and don't have to redo anything.

Rotors are available on the 'Bay. Not too bad vs stealership prices. Just gotta plan ahead!

I'm at 40K now, I just looked and the pads are close! Already have a new set in hand!

DIY FTW!

Robert

never go cheap on your brake parts!!!!

you get what you pay for...

FWIW
brakes are 1 thing you do not want to cheap out on



did you have your parking brake on when you did your rears?..it alomost sounds like it to me

hmmm... im on 68k on the original brakes, but i drive a manual so that always helps

you guys have autos?

I have a manal
changed out the pads at 40K

I changed mine around 75,000 and i have an auto.

I just changed pads rotors were still good.

did my front pads around 57,000 still some life on em but did it while i had them off so i did not have to did a month or so later...manual box also

Davestoaster

yu must have known that your pads were wearing...the wear indicators squeal

that squealing noise..is your old pads begging you to replace them....

they screech...replace me now..or it will cost you

Rotors are easily had on ebay for under 100 bucks.
http://shop.ebay.com/?_from=R40&_trksid=m38.l1313&_nkw=xB+rotors&_sacat=See-All-Categories

I got 22k on the stock fronts with an auto. The wear indicator broke off the left front, so I found out the old fashioned way...lol. I was crazy lucky to find a brand new set of the good aftermarket drilled and slotted rotors, along with a set of the really good ceramic aftermarket pads. This setup varies on ebay from 110 to 140+ Id have to say. The only thing good to come from the philly craigs list was this, a steal at 40 bucks out the door! And they have even better stopping power that oem. Ive looked at the pads after about 10k, and they look as though they havent been used, and there is so little dust on the wheels. I have a complete set of new oem brake pads and had the dealer cut the stock rotors, but I have a feeling Ill never need them any time soon, unless there is an emergency.

33,000 on First set 70,000 on Axxis brake pads now...

Seems like the highest mileage is on manuals, and the lowest on autos. At least from the few posts on this thread.

I wanted to do the slotted rotors, and ceramic pads, but I just could not justify the extra cost.

I guess if the second set of OEM stuff only lasts another 30000 miles, well then I made a bad decision and lost.

i got less than 30k miles on my MT tc

I wanted to do the slotted rotors, and ceramic pads, but I just could not justify the extra cost.

I guess if the second set of OEM stuff only lasts another 30000 miles, well then I made a bad decision and lost.Upgraded rotors and pads are not only for longer brake life. You'll also be missing out on the added braking performace. Food for thought. :lalala:

i got a whopping........... drum roll please.......

14k miles on my stock pads! i had the dealer put in new ones cuz i was in a hurry (cost me nearly $400 for pads and 'resurfacing' the rotors!)

the next time i had to replace the front pads, i did the rears as well. this was at 25k miles.

i bought the pads and shoes and went to a local shop to had them installed. the cost of the part s+ installation came out to under 200.

I remember those days of living in NYC^^^^^

I have found "cheeper / will fit " rotors for toyotas/ hondas tend to warp badly the first hi-way panic braking - and are not very machinable (not a lot of MEAT)

first pads here lasted 14k miles. absolute junk, after 3 sets i finally went to slotted rotors and axxis pads. so far i dont see any wear after 8k on them. im only at 56,000 miles now btw. im in a manual too btw. rotors and brakes cost a total of about 220$ (powerslot/axxis)
free install DIY!!!!

I have found "cheeper / will fit " rotors for toyotas/ hondas tend to warp badly the first hi-way panic braking - and are not very machinable (not a lot of MEAT)I wouldn't recomend machining ANY FWD rotors. Once they are turned they will warp right away from lack of meat.

I have found "cheeper / will fit " rotors for toyotas/ hondas tend to warp badly the first hi-way panic braking - and are not very machinable (not a lot of MEAT)I wouldn't recomend machining ANY FWD rotors. Once they are turned they will warp right away from lack of meat.

I agree.

The inspection guy I take my car to said he got rid of his brake rotor cutting lathe because after a certain year, (can't remember what year) the manufacturer no longer allow cutting down and resurfacing of rotors. They all have to be replaced with new ones. He says there is less and less cars on the road that allow cutting of the rotors so it no longer paid to have the machine and to rick a lawsuit from some idiot. He said he has to fail anyone who has their rotors cut after a certain year.

I never checked this out to be true or not, so I just replaced mine.

Maybe someone need to check the internet on the final answer on cutting down of the original rotors.

I've just never had any luck having them cut and not having them warp again. Whenever I do a brake job now I automatically get rotors and pads. Cheap insurance.

Anyone have trouble taking off the caliper bolts? I tried in mine and it just spins...I maybe just missing something or just dumb. Any help would be great

did u make sure the nut wasnt spinning with it?
u have to hold the nut when u loosen the bolt

^ Yea, that.

One of the ebay sellers that does the rotor/pad combo is local... $87 for drilled/slotted rotors and ceramic pads.

I know that I am an odd fellow, but I only buy Toyota pads and rotors. That is just my opinion though. I have a buddy who swears by auto zone's lifetime warrantee.

^^I like the OEM Toyota pads too!

No squeals or fitment issues ever. Zero headaches! Don't want to do anything twice if I don't have to.

Robert

i'm waiting on my powerslot rotors to come in from my speed shop. i'm saving about 7 dollars compared to OEM rotors. that toyota didn't have in stock. i looked into the TRD pads but they cost about $120 and weren't in stock. OEM pads ftw!
why are these rotors so freaking expensive??

i'm waiting on my powerslot rotors to come in from my speed shop. i'm saving about 7 dollars compared to OEM rotors. that toyota didn't have in stock. i looked into the TRD pads but they cost about $120 and weren't in stock. OEM pads ftw!
why are these rotors so freaking expensive??They do seem to be more than other FWD cars I've done brakes on. The cheapest stock rotors I could find for an xB was like 60 bucks each. Others can be had for closer to 35. :doh:

yeah but i cant cheap out on some parts. got a 19 month old and hopefully another one on the way within a year or 2. the xB's gotta last!

3 more payments. thank god!!!