Alright got a question. i've noticed that when i disconnect my cars battery(for maintenace) and then reconnect something goes wrong (This is the 5 or 6 time now). the car starts normal and idles normal. when i take it out for a test drive and i come to a complete stop, it either boggles with rpms ranging between150-300 or just completely dies, only after about a mile run does it smooth out again. also my trunk locking mechanism seems to not function anymore. the release trigger functions but it won't lock. it just happen tonight thanks

 

SEARCH

 

Ok just before I get started - feel free to correct me if i'm wrong on any of this but I know the general idea..


When you disconnect your battery you're basicaly resetting the ECU back to factory settings so any modifications your car has the ECU has to readjust to accomodate for those mods (i.e. intake, pulleys, header, etc..)

Also - why the heck did you have to disconnect and reconncet your battery so many times?

 

Sounds like you have a poor fuel map with your piggy back system or too large of an injector, and no injector correction.

When you first reconnect your ECU it uses a "starter" map that will run on any stock tC motor. Over time it learns more fuel and ignition trims. This adjustment could have been hiding your poor tune, because it compensated for it. When you reconnect the battery, it had to start over and the poor settings show up again.

I'd be curious to see what your AFRs are. Sounds like you're running pig rich.

What are you using for EMS, what's the AFR, and how is your MAF configured? Are you using any injector correction with oversized injectors?

 

um...search what?

"reset battery car runs weird"

https://www.scionlife.com/forums/vie...ery+runs+weird

cuz thats what i got out of that search..

 

anyways.

as joe said, newer cars run a diagnostic mode for the first 50-100 miles. it tends to run preeeeeetty crappy and dies out alot.

 

Word.

 

not exactly true, and there is more to this
a new OBD2 car, UNMODIFIED is not meant to die out after resetting the ECU. When you drive a brand new car off the lot does it sputter at each light? No.

And while the rule of thumb is to drive your car 50-100 miles after an ECU reset, or before an emissions test, that is simply because most will hit the required start up diagnostics within that time frame. Mechanics tell people this because they don't think they'll understand the concept of "drive cycle".

Every OBD2 car has a specific drive cycle, and if you know it, you can get it out of diagnostic mode in approximately 2 drives at less than 5 miles.

 

First off thanks for all of the replys. to answer joe dezod i have a 05 tc that has been t-charged for about 3 weeks now with a treadstone kit. my piggy back is the greddy e-manage blue street tuned as we don;t have a tuner shop here in grand forks ND. injectors are 550cc which is what i read are good for boost
thanks again

 

obviously. but we are in forced induction right? what he asked was a very specific question, implying that he knew he was in the FI area of the boards, further implying that he would understand the implications we are suggesting.

the first 50-100 miles is when the ecu is relearning fuel trims, gathering information from various sensors and whatnot.


also, by newer cars i meant obdII (1996+)

 

First of all - is he running any kind of fuel management at all? He might not be. ALso, I have had my car cut out once after resetting the ECU. Normally after resetting I let it run for 5min w/o driving it ..... I dont just reset it and jump right into gear (thats not a good idea).

 

 

you like to use the word implying a great deal.

anyway, this is what you wrote. don't know what a "diagnostic mode" is...perhaps you can enlighten me,
if you mean drive cycle, then read my post again.

as far as LTFT, that happens while you drive, and to my knowledge is not limited to the first 50-100 miles. Hence, the age old problem of a poorly tuned piggyback getting b** slapped by the ECU a couple of weeks after driving around.

 

What type of injector correction are you doing to prevent the rich condition that large injectors bring to the table?

Jetlounge, you are correct in what you said. It is not designed to stall. You are missing the key point where he has changed the ECU readings with the piggy back and replaced the injectors with larger ones. The OEM map was not designed for this, and without the proper adjustments will run incredibly rich which results in engine stalling.

To the OP, it sounds like you need a better tune on the box. You still didn't answer the question to your air/fuel ratio readings. If you do not have an air fuel gauge, how could you have possibly street tuned the car? If you simply forgot to give me the readings, please let me know what it's showing.

 

Joe dezod, i currently do not have a AFR guage but the person whom i left my car with to tune insured me he didn't need one. he has a turbo integra which he claimed to tune himself all the time. it has no guages besides all the stock ones. anyway the car ran great after the tune, but like i said it all went to **** when i replaced the battery. What type of AFR guage do you recommend so i can get some good info to you

 

Also i have no guages what so ever so if you can tell me what i should have that would be great to

 

Wow tuning the car with no gauges equal big NO NO, get a Wideband gauge asasp along with Boost gauge, oil pressure while your at it.....

Would probably let the car sit until you get that squared away im very curious to see what your AFRS are like after the install