arite so i just ordered brian crower springs and retainers and i was about to do cams but decided not to at this time. so im wondering on where you think i would start to drop hp badly on the redline.. im thinking that i can make power up to at the least 7k maybe 7.5k what do u think.. i kno the stock cams will stop making power somewhere

dezod s1 kit
built block
60-1 turbo .63/.70

 

it should be around 7K, upgraded
im would give you more power on top

 

bump

 

if you have upgraded valvs and springs retainers i say 7500 to 7800 you choose. i would go with 8000 lol but thats me. i like to be different lol

 

ya but ur gonna start losing power if u go that high with stock cams. 8k redline with stock cams ur powerband will start to drop

 

yup your right i forgot you said stock cams then i would say 7500 top.. i am now i think 6500 i think luiggi put and on stock head.

 

true.. ima have valves/springs/retainers i think 7k will be the best

 

6800. I remember hearing almost anything past 6500 is not beneficial. But that's just me trying to remember

 

well prob set it at 7k and then get on the dyno to find out

 

i have some equations fo ryou, like measuring cam lift durationa nd whatnot to determine the highest rpm the head is able to sustain. and whatnot. i'll get them tomorrow

 

arite cool.. ive seen someone go like 8k i think on stock cams but i dont believe that wud be beneficial in any way

 

it also depends on other supporting mods.. usually a bigger exhaust, aftermarket IM, port & polish, bigger turbo, cams with tune will open up power on top..

 

With a big enough turbo it would be. Depending on what you plan to do with the car too. Track, drag strip, autoX.....depending on the range you set it could equal not having to shift as often.

 

Um. Why???? With all the work you have to do to install the springs not doin cams is basically a waste of time. Not only are you tearing the head apart to begin with, but you will have to re-set valve lash, and the 2az is NON adjustable as is. There are no adjusters under that valve cover. You have to either cut the cups you have or buy new ones that are the correct thickness. So why not just save your pennies and do it all in one shot? And as for the red line, dont run it any further past peak power than you need to for you racing application. Thats just excessive wear on parts.

 

um sorry im not made of money at the moment Mr. Windu.. down the road i will be putting the BC cams in aswell. raising redline to 7k is better than still having it at 6.25 or w.e it is stock

 

Like I said. SAVE YOUR F*%@ING PENNIES AND DO IT ONCE!

 

ehh.. no.. i have the retainers and springs .. god knows if ill ever even do the cams.. it doesnt cost me money to open the head anyway..

 

I gotcha. Just a heads up. valve lash, is a pin in the ___ on this engine.

 

explain pweez

 

Under the cam, are the valves, and there is a steel cup that sits over the spring, cup side down. On the underside of the cup is a step that sits on the valve stem. The cam rides on the top side of this cup. The thickness of the top of the cup is where the valve lash comes from. Toyota sells them based on thickness. So you have to measure them, install the ones you have, install your cams and measure the lash. Then swap them around till you figure out what thicness cups you need. Try and re use as many as possible. I had to buy 3 and they were about 25 bucks each. I had each cam on and off probably 8 times before ai got it set.