out of no where my car is idling rough. sounds like a muscle car at idle not like an import and feels like it about to stall. Any ideas what this might be? also i took it into dealership beacause there was a really loud clicking sounds they said it was normal. Now it seems to be getting louder and louder.

Any CEL? Any mods? How many miles? Anything done recently?

cold air intake and race cutout after mid pipe no CEL. nothing done to the car it stock.

No CEL and ruff idle seems weird. I was going to say that it could be spark plugs or fule injectors. Or something causing non-combustion. But no CEL is very strange, because if it was a ruff idle due to a miss fire the CEL would come on. (Or it should).

I know our engines make some valve noise, but getting louder is not a good thing. I would say checked your oil level to make sure it is correct.

maybe ur filter is dirty on ur cai...

im also have a ruff idle and also when slowing down or roling my rpm jumps up and down like if i had cams or somthing and ideas some one said to clean my MAF but i dunno i started doing that after i went thew a puddle but the car starts fine

i only get woof idle when i don't drive my car for a couple weeks

and after few miles every thing is peachy again

mines have been acting weird ever since it rained

i have an o5 manual tc and the idle was horrible in my car.

i cleaned the cai filter. no cel.

the idle was around 400-500 and it jumped to 700 than back to 400 :(
if i turned the a/c on the car started to shake really bad!


the fix :

took the little breather off the engine and throw it away and connected back to the intake with a hose.
and did the seafoam cleaning before the oil change.
bought a MAF cleaner spray and cleaned the maf sensor

now my idle is good and its not shaking that much when i turn on the a/c


since then i tried to clean the throttle body but no change.- i mean.. my fairly good idle didnt get any better.
so take off the breather and sefoam it!


ps:
if u have cold air intake you cant pour the sefoam in the intake!!!!!!!!!!!!! it will came out at the filter! pour it in the brake booster.

so i should try cleaning my MAF sensor and get a new filter ? cuz my when im rolling like i said my idle jumps up and down at 1-2 k

id just change ur spark plugs, clean ur maf and restart ur ECU

hmm sounds good ill try that this weekend

Dont change your plugs unless there are clear signs of fouling (and in that case figure out why). The car comes with plugs that will run 100,000 miles (iridiums), so you are either going to throw away money on inferior, shorter life plugs or spend too much for he same plugs and most likely not need them.

Did you just happen to do anything (like installing the cai) that would have caused you to disconnect the battery? If so, you will need to drive the car a bit as the ECU "relearns" after the reset.

Idling at around 700 rpm is completely normal. If it is rough, there could be other issues. If it only stutters now and then when the AC (or defrost) is on, tha is normal as well since idle will stutter a bit when the compressor kicks on and off.

true bout the miles on the plugs but were unsure as to if he changed them i remember when i was n/a adn i changed my plugs the car had an extremely funky idle. then i changed them back and it was allgood.

well there are only 20k mile son my car so i don't think i'm gunna change the plugs. as for the intake filter , can you clean an injen filter or must you buy a new one. then reset ucu and check and see if maf sensor is dirty.

i already told you what to do with it.

but here it is again:

go to a store.. buy MAF cleaner and seafoam ( it will be like 10 dollars maybe.. get them both so you dont have to drive back and forth if the maf cleaning wont help u out at all)

get a new filter if u want but unless its really dirty it wont change your idle. clean your maf.. change the filter reset the ecu. if it wont help u then do the seafoam thing.

did u just put regular gas in your car after premium? i had a rough idle when my ex put reg in my car instead of premium?

I think you can get the K&N Air Filter Cleaning Kit, I used to do that =p

A bit messy, but it did clean the filter.

also change your pcv valve

pcv ? ok ill get maf cleaner tonight and try that out i have a cai what do i do with the sea foam

1) premium gas or the cheapest it will make no change to your idle!
2) clean the maf sensor
3) change or clean the filter - if you have stock intake = replace filter - if you have k&n cai then get the recharge kit and clean it. if you have other cai or dryflow filter.... then i dont know how could you clean it. use search button.
4) if u have cai and the intake is not connected with the supplied hose to the engine head.. but u have a little air brather = go to a shop , buy some hose, loose the breather and connect it back with the hose!
5) seafoam it before the oil change =
pour the 1/3rd of the seafoam in the gas tank (w/ a full tank of gas)
pour the second 1/3 rd in the engine where u put the oil
and the last 1/3rd in the brake bouster

the brake booster is somewhere behind the engine. you might have to remove the wipers and the plastic panel. its not that hard to find it or reach it. i didnt now where is it or what is it and i found it. use search button about seafoam and u will find it.

IMPORTANT: dont pour it in your intake!!!!! it might pour towards the fender instead of the throttle body.

pcv ? ok ill get maf cleaner tonight and try that out i have a cai what do i do with the sea foam

There is really too much and too many ways to use it to type it all out here .

Here is a start for you:

http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&client=firefox-a&channel=s&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&hs=Naz&ei=ojKwSaeSK9Ljtge1sbXMBQ&sa=X&oi=spell&resnum=0&ct=result&cd=1&q=how+to+use+seafoam&spell=1

pcv ? ok ill get maf cleaner tonight and try that out i have a cai what do i do with the sea foam

There is really too much and too many ways to use it to type it all out here .

Here is a start for you:

http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&client=firefox-a&channel=s&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&hs=Naz&ei=ojKwSaeSK9Ljtge1sbXMBQ&sa=X&oi=spell&resnum=0&ct=result&cd=1&q=how+to+use+seafoam&spell=1

no there isnt!!!
gas tank, engine and the third depends on the car. in our case is the brake booster

and about cleaning the filter :

k&n recharge kit contains a cleaning solutions and the oil spray.. this works on the k&n filter but i dont think its safe to re oil the aem dryflow filter. i dont know about the fujita or injen filters.

maybe you could measure the intake pipe go to a shop and buy a new k&n filter.. which will be at least 40 maybe 50 dollars!

ok ill try all that it was fine in till i went threw a puddle

1) premium gas or the cheapest it will make no change to your idle!
That may be the case for the idle.

But not when your at WOT. Any signs of pinging, and the ecu will retard the timing, and/or add fuel.

If the car requires premium, use premium.

Thats why cars are tuned for the type of gas they will be using.

as i see u have k&n ... so just clean the filter and the maf sensor. reset the ecu ( remove the negative battery terminal for a minute)

after that the idle will be extremely bad! the car will die on you at every stop! you have to drive the car for like 20 minutes..
plus you have to reset the windows ( just pull the button on each side to close the window and hold it for 2-3 seconds do the same thing to your moonroof )

ok thanks csocso your helping me alot i will try and get the maf cleaner and maybe clean my cone i dont think its been clean for 2 yrs hahah umm i think thats bad hahaha

1) premium gas or the cheapest it will make no change to your idle!
That may be the case for the idle.

But not when your at WOT. Any signs of pinging, and the ecu will retard the timing, and/or add fuel.

If the car requires premium, use premium.

Thats why cars are tuned for the type of gas they will be using.

you are right but in this case:

WE dont need premium gas unless we are boosted.

so as long as we have no turbo, s/c then we dont need premium gas and it wont matter if we use premium or regular.

ok thanks csocso your helping me alot i will try and get the maf cleaner and maybe clean my cone i dont think its been clean for 2 yrs hahah umm i think thats bad hahahahm... not that bad.. i didnt clean my filter for almost a year and it wasnt really bad. but yeah.. 2 years? its about time!

spray the cleaning solution on it. wait 10 minutes ( dont let it dry) wash it from the inside, wait a few hours until it dries and re oil it. dont put too much oil on it.

just make sure the filter turns to pink evenly ( the color of the oil) some oil will sit on the metal mesh but i just cleaned that with a towel.
let the filter sit another hour and if the oil is dripping you have to wash it again and use less oil.

you have to be really careless to put too much oil so i dont think you will mess it up.

thanks man i will be tryin that this weekend autobacs is going out of business so ill get it from there probably cheap

As far the seafoam, just use it in the gas tank, and with the oil.

Don't run it through your brake booster or intake manifold. Sometimes the carbon deposits are holding sh!!t together.

Friend of mine ran seafoam thru the brake booster, and I guess it did a great job of cleaning the cylinders. The compression was only slightly low when he did the compression test, after the seafoam, major loss in compression.

Just to clarify, it is a GREAT product, I always use it. Just haven't tried it through the intake mani. I have a high mileage car, and rather leave the carbon deposits around the piston rings and pistons as is, lol. Till I save enough to upgrade the internals.

I'd personally just rather not. I've also read of a couple of instances online with the seafoam and the compression. Just my .02 cents

Just a thought.... carbon deposits in the cylinder will increase the likelyhood of pinging, but I don't think it'll screw with your idle.

I'm thinking it might be a vacuum leak, dirty sensor, dirty air filter.

Try removing the air filter first, and then turning on the car. If it idles fine then its the filter. If it still doesn't, then it could be a dirty sensor.

Edit: Your shouldn't really have any carbon deposits, it usually only on boosted cars and/or people with bad tunes. So you should be fine to use it.

but it only idles rough when im rolling when im stopped it idles right bellow 1k

1) premium gas or the cheapest it will make no change to your idle!
That may be the case for the idle.

But not when your at WOT. Any signs of pinging, and the ecu will retard the timing, and/or add fuel.

If the car requires premium, use premium.

Thats why cars are tuned for the type of gas they will be using.

you are right but in this case:

WE dont need premium gas unless we are boosted.

so as long as we have no turbo, s/c then we dont need premium gas and it wont matter if we use premium or regular.
I don't remember if stock TCs are recomended to use regular or premium. I'm pretty sure its premium. You better hope the dealer doesn't try to blame any engine problems (regarding warranty) because you were running regular. My experience with dealers is they try to get out of it any way they can.

BTW i'm not saying you can't run regular gas. I'm just letting you know what the ECU does when it detects knock/pinging. Your car your choice.

As far the seafoam, just use it in the gas tank, and with the oil.

Don't run it through your brake booster or intake manifold. Sometimes the carbon deposits are holding sh!!t together.

Friend of mine ran seafoam thru the brake booster, and I guess it did a great job of cleaning the cylinders. The compression was only slightly low when he did the compression test, after the seafoam, major loss in compression.

Just to clarify, it is a GREAT product, I always use it. Just haven't tried it through the intake mani. I have a high mileage car, and rather leave the carbon deposits around the piston rings and pistons as is, lol. Till I save enough to upgrade the internals.

I'd personally just rather not. I've also read of a couple of instances online with the seafoam and the compression. Just my .02 cents

Just a though.... carbon deposits in the cylinder will increase the likely hood of pinging, but I don't think it'll screw with your idle.

I'm thinking it might be a vacuum leak, dirty sensor, dirty air filter.

Try removing the air filter first, and then turning on the car. If it idles fine then its the filter. If it still doesn't, then it could be a dirty sensor.

Edit: Your shouldn't really have any carbon deposits, it usually only on boosted cars and/or people with bad tunes. So you should be fine to use it.

he should try it. thats what fixed my idle........ if u do it right it will help.

1) premium gas or the cheapest it will make no change to your idle!
That may be the case for the idle.

But not when your at WOT. Any signs of pinging, and the ecu will retard the timing, and/or add fuel.

If the car requires premium, use premium.

Thats why cars are tuned for the type of gas they will be using.

you are right but in this case:

WE dont need premium gas unless we are boosted.

so as long as we have no turbo, s/c then we dont need premium gas and it wont matter if we use premium or regular.
I don't remember if stock TCs are recomended to use regular or premium. I'm pretty sure its premium. You better hope the dealer doesn't try to blame any engine problems (regarding warranty) because you were running regular. My experience with dealers is they try to get out of it any way they can.

BTW i'm not saying you can't run regular gas. I'm just letting you know what the ECU does when it detects knock/pinging. Your car your choice.


check the manual... regular gas is recommended! we do not need premium! i thought u knew this.

only boosted or high compression engines ( si, gts etc) or high power engines

have a nice day guys. i gtg to work.

but it only idles rough when im rolling when im stopped it idles right bellow 1k

hmm... mines did it when i stopped at the lights and stop signs

do the filter and maf clean!!!!!

u have an air breather on the engine or its connected to the intake with a hose?
i gtg! bye

if nothing helps = seafoam!

its connected to the intake

^^ good. clean it! and let us know what's up

check the manual... regular gas is recommended! we do not need premium! i thought u knew this.

only boosted or high compression engines ( si, gts etc) or high power engines

have a nice day guys. i gtg to work.
Thats why I said, "I don't remember."

To leave room for error.

But then again. My car stopped being stock a month or two after I got the car.

Like April/May 2006, lol.

I guess i'm just paranoid. With all these people blowing engines, on turbo kits, nos, and other such mods. I just think of it as cheap insurance ^^

All I know is with 80k+ and about 60k miles boosted, I still have no blown engine.

*phew*

:P

well i did the seafoam in the gas take noticed the car got a lil more power from that but still have the rough idle so i went and got MAF cleaner and cleaned that and when i was looking at the MAF SENSOR it was completely black for i sprayed it a as many times as the cleaner instructed and saw a huge difference and then i went and bought k&n recharge kit and clead the filter wow im talking about mud was jsut coming off of it when i used the solution rinsed it off oiled it up and no ruff idle is no more i wanna give thanks to CSOCSO for all the help

no problem... im glad you are happy..

btw we told you to do the cleaning first before u do the seafoam.
you could save a trip for yourself. But if the idle is good now then its okay.

what is your engine supposed to idle at?
somone was saying their idle was 700 and rough?
my car idles at 1000

700 to 1000 RPM is normal. Remember you idle will be higher when you first start it and higher on cold days.

I checked mine the other day and it was at about 700 or so RPMs on a 60+ degree day after it was warmed up.

ok the rough idle is back again when im rolling and slowing down it bounces up and down also when i cleaned the MAF sensor i didn't disconnect the battery i just unplugged it

Just to be clear, this is a 4 banger. A small amount of idle searching (especially when first letting off the throtlle or when the AC is on) is 100% normal. It will not sit and idle perfectly smooth all the time. A bit of rough idle (though not stalling) should not concern anyone.

Mine idles pretty smoothly most of the time. It will sometimes get rough off and on, but nothing that should concern anyone. So be sure you really have an idle issue before getting too concerned.

The car should idle at 1000 rpm or a bit above when you first start it cold. The idle should settle down to around 700 rpm or so as it warms up. A car should idle at the lowest possible rpm without stalling itself.

If you turn the AC on, idle should get bumped a bit to compensate, but it should steady out and try to hold a value. It will get rough and you will notice a dip when the AC compressor cyles on or off in this case.

well when i let it warm and when the cars running the idle is right at about 700 so that's normal i just hate that rough idle sound it bounces up and down gets annoying makes it sound like i have bigger cams but its only when im rolling and /or when im coming to a complete stop

well when i let it warm and when the cars running the idle is right at about 700 so that's normal i just hate that rough idle sound it bounces up and down gets annoying makes it sound like i have bigger cams but its only when im rolling and /or when im coming to a complete stop

Have you taken the spark plugs out and checked them? You might have one of them starting to go on you. Not enough for the computer to catch it as a misfire, but enough for you to feel it.

So you're saying that as you slow down, the rpm's blip up and down? if the car is just parked, the idle is smooth? Is this an auto or manual?

ooo ok ill take a look at them maybe tonight and see i hate it man i hate the sounds the idle going up and down hahaha cuz of my exhaust i can hear it clearly do yout think that its deff the spark plugs

what is the rough idle?

400-500!
thats what i had.. my headrest and my steering wheel was shaking! did all what i told u guys and so far its good again.

i did what you said and it came back what could it be lil i said when i take my foot off the gas and push the clutch in my idle bounces up and down

try to change the sparkplugs
its like 10 dollars each. get them from toyota! they are pre gapped
you dont need any performance poop plugs

ok ill do that so it will be roughly about 40 bucks for the plugs

If you have bad plugs.. what mileage do you have? Our stock iridium plugs have a LONG life (not recommended for changing until around 100,000 miles) so if you dont have a good number of miles and your plugs are bad, then you have other issues.

If it just does it right when you let off and push in the clutch, but idles fine sitting still, I ahve a feeling you are being a bit paranoid and thre is nothing wrong with your car. Again, you need to be sure there really is an issue before you replacing parts left and right.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UpmEte1DdQg watch that that's how it sounds when im rolling and i push the clutch in but when im ap a complete stop it idle at 700rmp

this is a better vid on how it sounds and my rpm jumps like that also only when im rolling it does that http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EL-AVvRuehE&feature=related

What air filter are you running? I ran a K&N on my CAI it took 17000 miles but my car started acting like I had bad gas. I poured in water remover and drove the crap out of the car to get all the gas out and once I refilled it the problem was still there. Out of dumb luck I bought some MAF sensor cleaner removed the sensor and cleaned it. After it was dry I reinstalled started the car, let it idle for several minutes, and I didn't have another issue. I found out later the oil from the K&N got on the MAF sensor and messed it up. It was a brand new intake and K&N filter. It wasn't even dirty or I didn't have the miles to have to clean it yet, I removed it direct from the factory out of the plastic bag and installed it. So I changed to an AEM Dryflow and no issues!

hmmm well i clean my MAF sensor it was completely black

Check your plugs now.

i only ahve like 47 or 48k on the car

blown head gasket?

there would be other problems if he had a blown head gasket so this would not be the case.

Try using BG44k. An even better fuel injector cleaner. Kept all 3 of my past cars smooth as butter.

+1 on the 44k. The only type of cleaner I will run through anything I own. Seafoam is really good if you are trying to knock down heavy carbon deposits, but as far as fuel system cleaner I will pick BG all the way.

so i should jsut check the spark plugs then

getting BG44k is even easier then checking the spark plugs.. lol all you needa do is add it to your gas tank when its low before you fill up. Ive honestly tried many other brands from shell to the brands you find at walmart and brands at auto stores.

You can usually find it online for about 20 bucks. But good luck finding it in stores. The sh*t is just too good for them to carry haha. But trust me sushi fish, BG shuld do the trick as far as injection goes..

When i first got my license I went through several used cheap cars that i bought off local listings. BG44k was usually the first thing i did, and it worked like magic.
Now for whatever reason that you may have for not wanting BG, theres always redline fuel injector cleaner. You can find it in stores for about 10 bucks. BUT BG is something that I recommend to all my friends.

BG only sells it through authorized dealers. My father is one of them.. but his shop is 650 miles away :P I buy a couple of cans from him at cost when I dont have any around just in case I need it. Typically something you only use ever 50,000 miles or so. He is very fond of it, and this is a man that is a 40+ year mechanic and is about as skeptical as it gets towards any sort of additives and "mechanic in a can" so that is saying alot about results he has seen from it.

Another authorized dealer near you is probably your Toyota dealer. As far as I know that is the only cleaner they use when you go in for a fuel system cleaning (the "on the car" clean anyways) . BG's website also lists distributors near you.

Yeah im definitely going to register as a dealer for BG when my store opens up.

well i shall check the plugs and then give you guys the results

i only ahve like 47 or 48k on the car

the plugs you want are the NGK IFRT611, they are the ones from the factory. I had a friend who put the Denso (toyota part from dealer) and the car didn't run as well. The plugs I pulled out of his were the IFR6T11's, they use both ngk and denso from the factory. If i were you, put the ngk's in.

Also, make sure the car is cold when you pull the plugs (just reminding you) :)

and I remember other manual trans cars I've had, where it would bounce in RPM as I pushed the clutch to the floor while moving. The rpm would bounce down to like 500 then back up to 1000, wouldn't reach regular idle until the car stopping moving. It always did that. I think because the air rushing in while moving tells the MAF sensor that air is flowing into the engine, match it with the same amount of fuel. then of course a higher rpm. Just my theory. But the facts are the rpms did blip like that.

I am starting to think if you pull the plugs out and look they'll look normal. I am starting to think this is normal behavior because I've seen it before as well, but wouldn't hurt to check the plugs.

Do not use factory heat range plugs! Also if you are FI use one step colder copper plug gapped at .28-.32.

all i have is headers and CAI

prob your tranny

car wouldn't run right if that was the problem

Do not use factory heat range plugs! Also if you are FI use one step colder copper plug gapped at .28-.32.

You must mean not to use factory heat range plugs IF BOOSTED. If NA you should certainly use factory heat range plugs.

And I would choose Denso over NGK any day, but both are good. If someone swapped between them and made a difference in the way the car ran, something was wrong with the orginal set.