i want to know if a 25 offset for a 17x7.0 rim will fit my car.

my car is dropped on tein s-techs

will i need spacers? or shims?

i want it to be flsuh/close to flush with the fenders?

they shoud fit fine. I have 7 inch wide 25mm offsets. Mine are 16's but that shouldn't matter.

Here's what I had put together as a way to know what I wanted: (as you can see I was going to get 17inch wheels :) )

Bolt Pattern
4x100

Center Bore
54.1mm

Nut Size
M12x1.5

17x7.0 . . (+28-35et opt) 25-42fits . . 215/40-17 Tire

Lowest that fits:
wide = offset
7 = 25
7.5 = 31
8 = 38

i want to know if a 25 offset for a 17x7.0 rim will fit my car.

my car is dropped on tein s-techs

will i need spacers? or shims?

i want it to be flsuh/close to flush with the fenders?

People have different opinions on what exactly "flush" is. In my opinion 17x7 +25 is on the conservative side of "flushness" - it should look really good and probably more "flush" than 90% of the setups I've seen. I myself have a medium range of flushness (17x8 +25, check my gallery).

Of course, you could go more extreme, but you'll have to be more cautious when choosing suspension and tire size.

BTW, what wheels were you looking at getting? :?:

till fit fine..i had 17X7 +20 front and +10 rear...still needs to be lower offset =P

Keep in mind that the front wheels will always stick out around 10mm more then the rear if the same offset wheel is run on all four corners. So you might want to get different offsets for the front and rear or 10mm spacers / shims for the rear just to even things out.

7 fits but if u can. get a wider wheel than 7!
get at least 7.5 if not 8 or 9"..
u can run a 9" wide rim in the rear with 25 offset
pretty easily just by getting the right tire and rolling
a lil fender

joey, thats the wheels that camein from alta, its not like i had a choice.

Wheels that are 17x7 +25 offset will not be flush. To *truly* be flush, you'll need to consider a staggered wheel fitment such as an 8/9 setup with lower offsets.


Peace,
m@

you can run a +20 on a 9 inch wide wheel at the back and be flush, at least the tire is, the rim isn't

they shoud fit fine. I have 7 inch wide 25mm offsets. Mine are 16's but that shouldn't matter.

Here's what I had put together as a way to know what I wanted: (as you can see I was going to get 17inch wheels :) )

Bolt Pattern
4x100

Center Bore
54.1mm

Nut Size
M12x1.5

17x7.0 . . (+28-35et opt) 25-42fits . . 215/40-17 Tire

Lowest that fits:
wide = offset
7 = 25
7.5 = 31
8 = 38

correct me if im wrong, but why would u put a higher offset on a wider wheel. wouldnt that defeat the purpose. with a wider wheel, wouldnt you want a lower offset to that the wheel would be "pushed" outward? and like for the allstar xb, they have 15x8 and 15x9 i believe with a -12 offset on it, 50mm diff from what you say is that lowest offset that fits. just curious

When you go wider in width, you can afford to go higher in offset to maintain the same amount of front spacing/outside lip. This is because the wider wheel means that the wheel is already moving out by half the difference in width. For example, if you took an 8" and 9" wide wheel with the same offset, the 9" wheel will stick out 1/2" more on the inside, and on the outside. So, what that means is that if you've already maxed out the distance you can go on the outside (so let's pretend that you have an 8", +10mm wheel and that its outside edge is perfectly flush with the fender), then if you go to a 9" wheel, you will need it to move IN the 1/2" so that it will maintain the same amount of outside clearance... so this is why you'd then want a 9", +22 to 23mm wheel (10mm plus about 12-13mm for the 1/2"). Hopefully that made some sense...

^^ exactly.I knew that the 25mm 7" was going to fit perfect in front, so even if I went wider I didn't want to go further out. But, the others are right too, you need to stick out more in the rear to be flush out there. OTG shims or spacers will fix you up. That way you can still rotate your tires.

(of course as time goes by my tastes change.. so my chart now would be different.. but, what do you do ?! ;-)

so for the front it would be 17x7+25 and for the rear wheel it would have to be 17x7+35 to make it as flush as possible?

From what I've seen and read, 17x8 +25 in front and 17x9 +25 in the rear would be close to ideal without having to roll the fenders. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

so for the front it would be 17x7+25 and for the rear wheel it would have to be 17x7+35 to make it as flush as possible?

no, that's backwards. lower offset sticks out further.. so 7 x 25mm up front and 7 x 10mm out back might do it. Or, like Bull suggests you can get a inch wider wheel, which will stick out a half in more (but either way you lose the ablity to rotate and still look normal)

so for the front it would be 17x7+25 and for the rear wheel it would have to be 17x7+35 to make it as flush as possible?

no, that's backwards. lower offset sticks out further.. so 7 x 25mm up front and 7 x 10mm out back might do it. Or, like Bull suggests you can get a inch wider wheel, which will stick out a half in more (but either way you lose the ablity to rotate and still look normal)

what do you mean by "but either way you lose the ablity to rotate and still look normal?"

Since the wheel sizes and/or offsets are different, you cannpt put the rear wheels on the front or vice-versa.

Since the wheel sizes and/or offsets are different, you cannpt put the rear wheels on the front or vice-versa.

So the only tire rotating you can do is side to side dismount/remounts which you'll need to do especially of you throw some camber in there. It's an expensive look, better get to know a tire guy that will take care of you and not screw up your rims...

ah ok, thanks for the info..

You can also run the same size tires front and rear, and still be able to rotate tires front-to-rear, and side-to-side... you'll just have to dismount the tires from the wheels to rotate them though, instead of just moving the whole wheel around with the tire still attached. It's not so bad though... figure an extra 20-30 bucks every time you do a tire rotation is worth the nicer appearance

Back from the dead.

How about a 17x7.5 +25 all around with a OTG shim in the rear? I'm dropped on Tein S-techs. Will I have any problems with rubbing? Would a 205/45/17 Falken Ziex 512 be a good tire to run to get a mild stretch, yet still maintain the proper tire height?

Back from the dead.

How about a 17x7.5 +25 all around with a OTG shim in the rear? I'm dropped on Tein S-techs. Will I have any problems with rubbing? Would a 205/45/17 Falken Ziex 512 be a good tire to run to get a mild stretch, yet still maintain the proper tire height?

When I had 205/40/17 on 17x8 +25 all around, it had a good stretch, but it made the fender gap bigger and rode a little harsh. I was on Goldlines (and no spacer shims), and I had no rubbing problems whatsoever.

Now, I have 205/45/17 on 17x8 +25, and the stretch is milder, the ride is softer, the gap is smaller, but I rubbed just a bit. With Goldlines, (and still no spacers), I rubbed the front fender liners a bit and rubbed the rear passenger fender a tad.

Just recently, I put on the OTG spacer shims, and now I definitely need to roll my fenders. Furthermore, I am lowered about 3+ inches, and I may have to take out the front fender liners....but I'll find out soon.

Your setup would basically be just 6mm tucked further in than my setup. Bottom line, I'm 90% sure you'll be fine as long as you are on S-Tech springs, but with the OTG spacer shims, there's a slight chance you'll rub the rear fenders.....good luck!

work wheels told me +13 for 7" wide rear wheels for my xb or a +25 on a 8"

Anyone got any pics of a similar set-up?

why does everyone have a fetish for wheel spacers? Get the width and offset right and there is NO need for spacers at all. Why does everyone insist on spending uneccesary money?

^^ well the point is u can't rotate your tires without dismount/remount them if you get different offet front and rear. In NYC, it would cost me $60 to dismount/mount for all four tires. The spacer shim only cost me $65 so basically I'm not wasting any money. I prefer to rotate my tires without having to remount the tires.

Let me see if I have this right... I'm going to order Motegi Trak Lite, 17 x 7 offset 42 for the front and 17 x 8 offset 42 for the rear. Is that right? for the rear to look some what flush with the fender.
I have read/searched alot of different threads (here on SL) yesterday and today, just want to make sure I know what to order.

I feel that the "Eibach" spring are what I'm looking for to go with the wheels I have chosen, I haven't read/seen anyone with this setup. Any help will be greatly appreciated, tire size, rubbing...

BTW xA is the ride.

You won't even be close to flush with those offsets.

And to answer your quetion JDMJim, I don't have a fetish with spacers. I just don't feel the need to spend thousands of dollars on wheels. The wheels I found are in a style I like a lot and the only size they're available in is 17x7.5. I've chosen to go with +25 offset and at $650 for qa set of 4 shipped, feel that I got a great deal on some wheels that are near ideal offsets and width for the xB given my budget. With a $65 spacer in the rear, I'll have the flush look I was going after on all 4 corners, yet still be able to rotate tires without a mount/dismount of the tires to accomplish that task. Guess I'm just not as JDM as you, but I didn't spend as much loot for the look either . . . does that make me less of a person? :P

That doesn't make anyone less of a person. I feel if you can get a custom offset with your wheels, then get the rims flush. Then have discount tires mount the tires. I beleive they rotate tires for free the last time I checked. Even mine. Or, don't get a directional tire and and switch tires from side to side.
2tense, You are buying Honda wheels for your Toyota?

Motegi's are Honda wheels? or is the 42 offset Honda? did not know that :doh: , I was going by a pic. that I saw of an xA and the hole pattern 4/100.

The offsets are typical Honda offsets. While a high offset wheel will fit an xB, you'll want to look for lower offsets for if you're going for the flush look.

*cough* +25 *cough* :P

I just found out the wheels I want are also available in 17x8.5 +25. Should I go with 17x8.5 front AND rear? Or 17x7.5 +25 front and 17x8.5 +25 rear? Right now I'm running OTG shims in the rear, but if I went with 8.5's in the rear I'd obviously have to take them out. If I go with 8.5's, should I run 205/45/17 tires all around?

I just found out the wheels I want are also available in 17x8.5 +25. Should I go with 17x8.5 front AND rear? Or 17x7.5 +25 front and 17x8.5 +25 rear? Right now I'm running OTG shims in the rear, but if I went with 8.5's in the rear I'd obviously have to take them out. If I go with 8.5's, should I run 205/45/17 tires all around?

What wheels are you looking at? Also, what is your suspension setup?

Personally, Since you have the OTG spacers in already, I would go with the 8.5 et25 all around with 215/40/17 tires. 215/40/17 will stretch nicely over a 8.5, the sidewalls wont look as big as a 45 series, you'll be able to rotate front-to-back and side-to-side, and the tire diameter will match OEM. Of course, you'll need to roll your fenders too - a one time thing that isn't too hard to do and you will achieve a look very few have....

Additionally, The flushness and stretch is gonna accentuate your fender gap, so I think you might wanna go lower with some Tein Basics or at least Tanabe df210 springs.

Kinda reminds me: You ever watch Dr. 90210 on E!, he always suggests the girls to get bigger breasts than they origianlly wanted because they always regret not going bigger. It's kinda like that with width/offsets :rofl:

I am on Tein S-techs and have no plans to go lower as I have to drive this car year-round, including in the Minnesota snow.

Wouldn't 17x8.5 +25 rub front and rear -- especially in the rear if I was using the shim??

How about running 215/45/17 tires all around on 8.5 +25? I want a little sidewall for daily driving comfort and it would eat up some of that wheelwell gap since I'm on Tein S-Techs.

17x8.5 +25 has potential to rub with or without the shims - depending on what tires you choose. You *might* be safe with 205/45/17 (with a heavy stretch and firmer ride) even safer with 205/40/17 (but then you lose some sidewall and gain gap). It's really up to you and how much hassle you're willing to put up with.

I had 215/45/17 for like a week, and I didn't like how fat the sidewalls were - comfy but didn't look that good (no stretch & too much sidewall). It'll give you more rubbing problems too beacuse of the low offset.

Snow, S-Techs, and comfort, eh? For an easy and no hassle setup, I'd go 17x7.5 with 215/40/17 tires all around (maybe rear shims). It may not be the look that I'd prefer, but it's your car. As my buddy says: you gotta pay to play!

Or you could just save up some more money and get it how you really want it the first time! Save up for Tein Basics: comfier ride than springs and can raise it up in the winter and throw on the steelies. In the summer, you can slam it 3" and you'll have more flexibility with your choice of wheels! Just a thought.

I used 205/40/17 on a 8 and inch wide wheel. Stretch on the back is crazy. But I need it with the air suspension. try 215/40.

Pics anyone? Anyone running a 17x8.5 +15 in the rear? Can't wait to get some "proper fitting" wheels!

When you go wider in width, you can afford to go higher in offset to maintain the same amount of front spacing/outside lip. This is because the wider wheel means that the wheel is already moving out by half the difference in width. For example, if you took an 8" and 9" wide wheel with the same offset, the 9" wheel will stick out 1/2" more on the inside, and on the outside. So, what that means is that if you've already maxed out the distance you can go on the outside (so let's pretend that you have an 8", +10mm wheel and that its outside edge is perfectly flush with the fender), then if you go to a 9" wheel, you will need it to move IN the 1/2" so that it will maintain the same amount of outside clearance... so this is why you'd then want a 9", +22 to 23mm wheel (10mm plus about 12-13mm for the 1/2"). Hopefully that made some sense...

But then the wheel will run into the suspension.

presenting +25 offset wheels... the ultra sexy 17x7 +25 DAMD Lover Soul wheel:

http://img394.imageshack.us/img394/1491/fitment16kf.jpg

http://img394.imageshack.us/img394/3856/car21bz.jpg

i'd say a +25 would fit juuust fine ;)

I'm happy with my setup at first I wasnt sure how it would look. I have Eurolines 17x7 25 offset all around with OTG spacer shims on the rear and 215x40x17 Toyos. There are pics in my gallery.

I'm happy with my setup at first I wasnt sure how it would look. I have Eurolines 17x7 25 offset all around with OTG spacer shims on the rear and 215x40x17 Toyos. There are pics in my gallery.
okay so this may have answered my question of "will 15x7 ET+25 with 10mm OTG shims in the rear fit my xA?"
i'm assuming it will, would you agree?

it would, you might have to roll your fender

it would, you might have to roll your fender

it would, you might have to roll your fender
what is that? and how do i do it? "roll your fender"