I'm kicking around the idea of an xB with a forged short block and a turbo. Has anyone done this?

Also, could this font be any freaking smaller?

Thanks,
Alan

the font size could indeed get smaller and verry tiny fonts sizes
there are some turbo xBs flying around....

the font size could indeed get smaller and verry tiny fonts sizes
there are some turbo xBs flying around....

Once you get smaller than a 6 you really can't read it at all. :p

What kind of gains are they seeing, what size turbo, and how much boost?

I assume it's a stock short block.

You'll also have to deal with the fuel pump, injectors and ECU.

you can wait on the injectors and ECU (depending on how crazy you plan on getting...)

do a search. sorry but yes just search theres like 5 on here probably more!!! but yeah expect anywhere between 126whp to like 148whp or so.

I dont' know if it'd be worth the effort (or money) for a whopping 150 hp... hhmmm... I think I'm going to have to kick this around.. (Still, 50 hp is a 50% increase so that's a lot...)

I'm thinking if I pull the motor and increase the piston and rod size (stoker kit, basically) it'd be good for a little more hp... a little head work, better exhaust and screw with the computer and you'll be pretty straight. I can't see needing more than a 19-24# injector. I'd like to see 250-300 at the wheels.. I have a feeling there are a lot of parts that break at that level.

What other engines will fit between the fenders, I wonder... hhhmmmm.....

Maybe I should look at doing this to an Elise instead... it's cool either way.

Thanks guys,
Alan

My understanding is increasing rod size (i assume you're talking length) won't increase your displacement at all........because the "stroke" is still the same (the distance your rod/piston travels up and down has not changed). Increasing rod size diameter wise is good for improving the strength of the rods though.

Increasing your piston size (diamter wise) would increase the "bore" of the engine, not the stroke........which would require boring of the cylinders to match the pistons.

I've never actually had a stroker kit, so I could be wrong.........but my understanding of them was that a stroker kit raises displacement by increasing the up/down travel of the pistons (stroke), and not the bore. Increasing up and down travel of the pistons won't be altered by altering piston or rod size in any dimension.

KiL

I've never actually had a stroker kit, so I could be wrong.........but my understanding of them was that a stroker kit raises displacement by increasing the up/down travel of the pistons (stroke), and not the bore. Increasing up and down travel of the pistons won't be altered by altering piston or rod size in any dimension.


You are correct.

You're right. I meant piston size (bore increase) as well as longer rods (increased stroke) By increasing the length of the stroke and diameter of the bore you increase the overall displacement. This will not only let you make a little more power in N/A form, but also, give you more of a return when you step up to some sort of forced induction.

I think you guys have hit the nail on the head in that 150-170 HP is pretty much the upper limit of what the stock internals can take.

If you put a better crank (if it's even available yet) and some custom rods/pistons you can get pretty nuts with the boost.

Run an intercooler, and even just mild head work I think you can see some pretty impressive gains.

Getting the rest of it (like the half shafts) to stay together is a different story all together. ;)

A

My understanding is increasing rod size (i assume you're talking length) won't increase your displacement at all........because the "stroke" is still the same (the distance your rod/piston travels up and down has not changed). Increasing rod size diameter wise is good for improving the strength of the rods though.

Increasing your piston size (diamter wise) would increase the "bore" of the engine, not the stroke........which would require boring of the cylinders to match the pistons.

I've never actually had a stroker kit, so I could be wrong.........but my understanding of them was that a stroker kit raises displacement by increasing the up/down travel of the pistons (stroke), and not the bore. Increasing up and down travel of the pistons won't be altered by altering piston or rod size in any dimension.

KiL
1000% correct....

Again Big......not to be picky or annoying.............but there are a lot of newbies here trying to learn and many of them take what they read as fact..........so I like to make sure, whenever possible, that what I say is accurate. As you say longer rods will increase stroke.......I do not believe this to be true.

Think of it this way. I'm holding in my hand a 1 foot long stick. I'm bouncing my hand up and down 6 inches. The "stroke" of the stick is the distance it is travelling up and down.........6 inches.

If I take a 2 foot long stick.....and continue bouncing my hand up and down 6 inches........the stroke of the longer stick is still 6 inches. The sticks increased length has not changed the distance I am bouncing my hand. To increase the stroke I would have to increase the up and down motion of my hand.

So, to "stroke" an engine.......the up and down travel of the piston must be lengthened........which won't be achieved by lengthening the rod. I assume the affect of "stroking" is achieved by manipulation of where/how the rod connects to the crank......as the rotation of the crank determines how far up and down the rod and piston will travel. Of course, as I mentioned I've never owned or even seen in person a stroker kit, I don't know exactly how the increased stroke is achieved...........I just know lengthening of the rod will not do it.

KiL

bore increase is nearly impossible with this motor , the cylinder walls are only like the thickness of a notepad. ya know the 70 sheet mead ones , too thin to safely bore more than say a 10th over.

Again Big......not to be picky or annoying.............but there are a lot of newbies here trying to learn and many of them take what they read as fact..........so I like to make sure, whenever possible, that what I say is accurate. As you say longer rods will increase stroke.......I do not believe this to be true.

Think of it this way. I'm holding in my hand a 1 foot long stick. I'm bouncing my hand up and down 6 inches. The "stroke" of the stick is the distance it is travelling up and down.........6 inches.

If I take a 2 foot long stick.....and continue bouncing my hand up and down 6 inches........the stroke of the longer stick is still 6 inches. The sticks increased length has not changed the distance I am bouncing my hand. To increase the stroke I would have to increase the up and down motion of my hand.

So, to "stroke" an engine.......the up and down travel of the piston must be lengthened........which won't be achieved by lengthening the rod. I assume the affect of "stroking" is achieved by manipulation of where/how the rod connects to the crank......as the rotation of the crank determines how far up and down the rod and piston will travel. Of course, as I mentioned I've never owned or even seen in person a stroker kit, I don't know exactly how the increased stroke is achieved...........I just know lengthening of the rod will not do it.

KiL

10,000% correct again....

the stroke is determinded by the connecting point on the crank. the farther out from the center of the crank the greater the stroke.
there are three main ways to stroke a motor....
1. buy a crank with a bigger stroke...(if avail...)
2. borrow a crank from another motor (this is a favorate method of chevy 350 people...)
3. have another crank made or modify the existing crank....

bore increase is nearly impossible with this motor , the cylinder walls are only like the thickness of a notepad. ya know the 70 sheet mead ones , too thin to safely bore more than say a 10th over.

also correct....
you cannot bore this block (sleeve)

i thought the 1.3l motor was bored out to make the 1.5l motor we have...(could be wrong on this, but that was my understanding...)

Think of it this way. I'm holding in my hand a 1 foot long stick. I'm bouncing my hand up and down 6 inches. The "stroke" of the stick is the distance it is travelling up and down.........6 inches.

Sounds kinda personal to me. :shock:

Think of it this way. I'm holding in my hand a 1 foot long stick. I'm bouncing my hand up and down 6 inches. The "stroke" of the stick is the distance it is travelling up and down.........6 inches.

Sounds kinda personal to me. :shock:
LMAO :rofl:

wow more talk about the same old cit, but with more technological know how, im impressed. dont expect anthyning reliable over 150 at the wheels, with a stock bottom end. it will go boom, maybe not right away but it will not last. expect with a stroker setup, and turbo pushing 7-9 psi to run around 220 to the wheels with maybe a little higher if you cranked the boost, but all of these ideas have been addressed previously. the main problem in mine and my mechanics/fabricator minds is the tranny and its abllitlity to sustain this type of power. esp with my plans of auto-xin the ccrap out of it. so on the long list of things needed with be stronger axels and cv's lsd, and god knows what with the actual gearbox....but i guess only breaking them will tell us what needs to be dont

brent

bore increase is nearly impossible with this motor , the cylinder walls are only like the thickness of a notepad. ya know the 70 sheet mead ones , too thin to safely bore more than say a 10th over.

also correct....
you cannot bore this block (sleeve)

i thought the 1.3l motor was bored out to make the 1.5l motor we have...(could be wrong on this, but that was my understanding...)
don't know if the 1.3 was bored but i do believe it was re-sleeved.

re-sleeved as in bigger bore...or bored out...same differance...

Hello,

Lets start off with the sizes.

1nz-fe 1.5 liter 75mm bore, 84.7mm stroke
2nz-fe 1.3 liter 75mm bore, 73.5mm stroke

The difference was the short block. 2nz crank had a smaller stroke. The block is also is 10mm shorter using shorter rods in combination with the shorter crank. The crank depics the stroke, rod lenght depics the angle of the rod (from crank to wrist pin) also rod ratio.

The block must be sleeved in order to increase the bore size. For the nubies, this means that the small steel liner and the aluminum surrounding it must be bored out COMPLETLY and steel sleeves with an incorporated block gaurds pressed into place. Once that is done the steel sleeves are bored to a new size to match the new pistons. Due to the size of the block, a 1.7 is max out of this block saftly in N/A form. Turbo application will only allow a little over 1.6 due to the fact a certain wall thickness must be maintained.

Hope this helps.

ELP