SPARK PLUGS REPLACEMENT
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/images/tip/ngk24A.jpg
By: Brian
http://www.echodrivers.com/forums/images/avatars/1406583178406c64c761a9f.jpg (http://groups.msn.com/Sorensonbrian/sparkplugs.msnw)
This is my spark plug change on a 2004 xA. It had NGK V-power plugs and I replaced them with the same. $7 for 4 spark plugs at local auto-part stores.

Tools used:
-10mm socket w/wrench,
- 5/8 inch (16mm) spark plug wrench
- Torque wrench w/ 6 inch extension and 16mm socket
- Plug/shim gap measureing tool

Plus:
-4X NGK -bkr5eya
- 1 pack high temp anti-seize

1. I started with a cool engine. Used the 10mm socket to remove the engine covers 4 nuts
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/sparkplugs_xaxb/01.jpg

2. Under the engine cover I used a brush and towel to clean away dirt and debrit so it wouldn't be falling down the spark plug wells. Then I used the 10mm socket to remove the 4 bolts holding the coil packs/boots down.
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/sparkplugs_xaxb/02.jpg

3. Once all the bolts were out I did one replacement at a time. I removed the first boot from the plug by giving it a twist and pulling it off the plug. (if there isn't enough slack in the wire to pull it out, you can disconnect the clip)
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/sparkplugs_xaxb/03.jpg

4. With that out you can see down to the plug
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/sparkplugs_xaxb/04.jpg
You can insert the spark plug wrench and unscrew the plug counter clockwise
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/sparkplugs_xaxb/05.jpg
-or-
if it's stuck you can use a wrench (torque wrench in pic) and the 16mm socket on an extension to break it loose.
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/sparkplugs_xaxb/06.jpg

5. Once it's unscrewed the plug will stay in the plug wrench (if equipped with rubber grommet) and you can lift it right out. If you aren't using a plug wrench you can use a small section of hose to push down on the end of the plug or some other imagenative device.
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/sparkplugs_xaxb/07.jpg

6. Inspect the old spark plug. Here are some examples of what to look for. (http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/techinfo/spark_plugs/faq/faqread2.asp?nav=31200&country=US)Here's a side-by-side of the old and new plug. Notice the rounded electrode on the old plug and the slightly larger gap.
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/sparkplugs_xaxb/08.jpg

7. Check the gap on the new plugs. (old plug shown)
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/sparkplugs_xaxb/09.jpg

It should be 0.032 in. If it is bigger you can tap the plug on the electrode to close in the gap
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/sparkplugs_xaxb/10.jpg

-or-
if the gap is too small you can CAREFULLY pry it open some.
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/sparkplugs_xaxb/11.jpg

8. Coat the threads of the plug with antiseize. This will help on your next change and keep the plugs from getting seized up in the engine.
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/sparkplugs_xaxb/12.jpg

9. Now you can put the new plug in. Lower it doen into the hole. Start by turning the wrench counter-clockwise till you feel the threads "pop" a little (that's the starting point of the threads fitting correctly) then turn the wrench clockwise to screw the plug in. If you feel much resistance, unscrew the plug and start over. This is to keep you from "cross-threading" the plug (very bad) and forcing it in where it will almost definately get seized in the engine ( very pricey to fix).
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/sparkplugs_xaxb/13.jpg

*** another trick for beginners is to use a small section of hose. Fit it on the top of the plug and use it in place of the wrench to screw the plug in.
If the threads start to cross the hose will slip around the plug instead of forcing it in. (http://groups.msn.com/isapi/fetch.dll?action=MyPhotos_GetPubPhoto&PhotoID=nGQCXAokH4UpSBFdmK9fp5tuDGo8TgBV1UuX092rxqD7cmhBNM7glpaIcDwhHq7ha) :relief:

10. Once the plug is screwed in you can use the torque wrench to tighten it to 13 ft lbs
-or-
after it's hand-tight tighten it 1/2 a turn more.

11. Put the boot back in and onto the plug.
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/sparkplugs_xaxb/14.jpg

12. Put the 10mm bolt back in to hold the coil pack/boot down
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/sparkplugs_xaxb/15.jpg


-13. Repeat steps 1-12 on the remaing plugs and put the engine cover back on.

Should only take about 15-30 minutes.
Faster than an oil change, cheaper than an oil change, yet so often neglected

nice write up... good stuff... thanks for taking the time!..

while you were in there, did you see a PCV valve? Nice DIY. Thanks. I saved the page. There are some good DIYs on the Echofans website.

Ditto, an easy task but pics and instructions always make things more friendly. Thanks for taking the time to document.

Nice informative write-up. I hope this gets added to the tech section.

I was waiting for this to be posted on this forum. I saw it on echodrivers earlier... Adding to the tech section! Will move it to the FAQ section soon.

How many miles did you have on those old plugs?

Nice write up!

20,000 miles on the old plugs. They looked rounder than I thought they would so I didn't wait for 30k.

while you were in there, did you see a PCV valve? Nice DIY. Thanks. I saved the page. There are some good DIYs on the Echofans website.

http://groups.msn.com/Sorensonbrian/yourwebpage.msnw

Thanks for taking the time to write that up.

Just wondering is that the recommended plug gap xa/xb .032?

For the NGK plugs it is. For Denso or auto-lite I think it's 0.044

According to the Xb Service manual here are the correct specs for the plug gaps:
Denso (K16RU)= 0.7 mm / 0.028 inches
NKG (BKR5EYA)= 0.8 mm / 0.031 inches

Also, it's not a bad idea to put some Dielectric Tune-Up Grease on the tip of the boot and on the ceramic part of the plug to make sure no fusing occurs do to heat.

while you were in there, did you see a PCV valve? Nice DIY. Thanks. I saved the page. There are some good DIYs on the Echofans website.
The PCV valve has the red circle around it in the below picture. My hoses look a little different then stock because I have the oil catch tank hooked up, but the valve is the same.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v303/avatar_99/PCV1.jpg

I just bought my xB a day or so after Christmas, so I haven't tried any mods. And I'm not familiar with how the new computer controlled engins react to what I'm about to mention.

In the OLD days--I mean OLD days-- we'd drop a step or two to a colder plug, then we'd gap a little wider than spec. Generally, we could feel a boost in power. Has anybody tried this on an xB? I think I will, before the stock plugs go kaput, so I can reinstall them if there's no improvement.

no where near as much improvement if any at all. they got this motor building stuff down to a science nowadays. i miss the ol days too.

do iridium spark plugs really add "horsepower" or is that some marketing myth

are you all saying thet sparkplugs gotta be changed every 30,000?

do iridium spark plugs really add "horsepower" or is that some marketing myth

are you all saying thet sparkplugs gotta be changed every 30,000?
30k is the manufacturer recommended so I'll stick with that. Iridiums are a huge debate. I believe in them but.... don't expect alot.

do iridium spark plugs really add "horsepower" or is that some marketing myth

are you all saying thet sparkplugs gotta be changed every 30,000?

30,000? my last car didnt need plugs till 100,000 but they were platnum tipped

im clueless when it comes to spark plugs. guess ill be going to toyota on monday to get me some.

crap my tool box is still in NY argh. now o gotta buy a spark plug socket and extension and rachett.

what size is the spark plug socket i need?

whoops i quoted myself

whoops i quoted myself
just a little bit

Where did you learn how to change spark plug at? You don't pry open the gap like that. You use the feeler gauge. Put the tabs at the spec. size then slide it in and out and that will place the gap right. Also don't ever ever ever use a torque wrench to break lose a spark plug or any other bolts. There are tools to break bolt loose it is a breaker bar just like a ratchet but it will not move at all. One more thing spark plugs whould not be that tight.Only hand tighting them.

Where did you learn how to change spark plug at? You don't pry open the gap like that. You use the feeler gauge. Put the tabs at the spec. size then slide it in and out and that will place the gap right. Also don't ever ever ever use a torque wrench to break lose a spark plug or any other bolts. There are tools to break bolt loose it is a breaker bar just like a ratchet but it will not move at all. One more thing spark plugs whould not be that tight.Only hand tighting them.

In the army I learned to do most of my maintanance. (if you really wanted an answer to that question. My guess is you're just being rude.)
I don't like anything to be touching the center electrode or porcelain of my plugs so I use pliers (needle nose) or my little gapping tool. I don't like feeler gauges.
Torque specs on the plugs are listed on the product (or car manual) for a reason. Torque is one of the most critical aspects of spark plug installation. "Torque directly affects the spark plugs' ability to transfer heat out of the combustion chamber. A spark plug that is under-torqued will not be fully seated on the cylinder head, hence heat transfer will be slowed. This will tend to elevate combustion chamber temperatures to unsafe levels, and pre-ignition and detonation will usually follow. Serious engine damage is not far behind.
An over-torqued spark plug can suffer from severe stress to the Metal Shell which in turn can distort the spark plug's inner gas seals or even cause a hairline fracture to the spark plug's insulator...in either case, heat transfer can again be slowed and the above mentioned conditions can occur."
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/techinfo/spark_plugs/faq/faqtorque.asp?nav=31200&country=US

Ha ha. Yes, sorry but he's been ____ing me off. Man "hand tight" that's funny ,he can experiment with his own car.

do iridium spark plugs really add "horsepower" or is that some marketing myth

are you all saying thet sparkplugs gotta be changed every 30,000?

Won't add HP, but will help you with HP the engine already has. You could say they "restore" horsepower and with iridiums smaller electrode it requires less voltage and has a more consistant spark.
30,000 is recommended for most plugs and 0.4mm iridium, but there are 0.7mm iridium that are said to last 100,000 (like in the 2000 model echos)

what size is the spark plug socket i need?
I think it's 5/8"socket . whatever is = to 16mm

thanks for the info.

oh and the echo forum is an awesome forum

id be driving one if their wasnt a scion around ;-)

just changed my spark plugs with the regular denso's and i must say it makes a difference, no more exhaust pops and take off is a bit better also with smoother idle. thanks for the info guys, just curious does anyone have a part number for the denso iridium plugs? i tried looking one up at work but they only came up for the echo are they the same?

yes

Aren't the denso iridium running for more than $80.00?

their like 13.00 bucks a piece at work

Denso iridium IK16

I usually don't pay more than $35-40
Search e-bay (http://search.ebay.com/denso-iridium-ik16_W0QQsofocusZbsQQsbrftogZ1QQfromZR10QQsacatZ-1QQcatrefZC6QQsargnZ-1QQsaslcZ2QQsadisZ200QQfposZQ5AIPQ2FPostalQQftrtZ1QQftrvZ1QQfsopZ1QQfsooZ1QQcoactionZcompareQQcopagenumZ1QQcoentrypageZsearch)

wat would the best spark plug be?? sorry if asked again....

Are you asking best brand?
Best performance?
Best value?
best material?
I think nickel is good, Platinum is better and Iridium is the best.
But if you don't want to pay for the iridium the platinum are good enough.
I always stick to NGK and denso.

Thanks for wicked good f.a.q Echo B :bow: :bow: I have never done any engine stuff b4 and was super simple (my buddy who does work on cars helped a bit at first) super sweeeeet I also changed the pcv valve both were in terrible condition thanks again. :P :P :P .

http://driftanddestroy.com/s17.jpg

Nice write-up. I especially enjoyed when you issued 'justice' on Ice Cream Truck. For those of you wondering what this means, read the previous page.

Echo_B, Just to clarify, the little rings that come on the spark plugs are supposed to stay on for this engine, right?

right, when i checked mine the other day the factory plugs have washers on the plugs

Where did you learn how to change spark plug at? You don't pry open the gap like that. You use the feeler gauge. Put the tabs at the spec. size then slide it in and out and that will place the gap right. Also don't ever ever ever use a torque wrench to break lose a spark plug or any other bolts. There are tools to break bolt loose it is a breaker bar just like a ratchet but it will not move at all. One more thing spark plugs whould not be that tight.Only hand tighting them.

It's pretty much impossible to use the correct size feeler guage and set a gap without using something to pry it open or press it shut. Feeler guages are made to check the measurement, not pry things apart. At least my set isn't. There's no taper to make them fit into smaller gaps.

I agree that a torque wrench shouldn't be used to break anything loose. It's made to measure torque when tightening a bolt/screw. Using it for anything else could potentially take it out of specification.

Hand tightening plugs would not be good. Remember that the plug goes directly into the top of the cylinder. If it doesn't seal correctly, the compression will be reduced which will cause a major loss of power and could damage the engine.

cheaper than an oil change my ___... i use iridium denso spark plugs. about 50 dollars for four.

Thanks for the write up. Nice photos.

Nice Job on the DIY!
Does anyone ever use Bosch plugs?
I just installed them so I hope they are ok

^^^^^^^^yeah really im a bosh type of guy ^^^^^^^^^
funny i was just starting to complain about mpg's and accel during idle i just relized i have 27000 miles and 85% of the miles are city (traffic 405) miles - i know what im doing this saturday

So I guess, with my car being at 51000 miles I should probably change the spark plugs...? And maybe the PCV valve?
I change my oil every 5-7 thousand miles, I use FULL synthetic.

thanks to this super easy to follow DIY i was able to change out my spark plugs in about 15 minutes.

... I also changed the pcv valve both were in terrible condition ...
How can you tell if a PCV valve is in bad condition?

Changed mine at 28,000 earlier today.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v628/xbscion/DSC02005.jpg

Changed mine at 28,000 earlier today.... The old plug still looks perfect. No erosion or rounding of the electrodes, no deposits except a little proper fawn color.

you guys dont even want to know what my old plugs looked like! haha!

i got 800 more miles till i change my plugs, btw max your old plugs looks normal

Yeah, they look good, but getting the old ones out was quite the ordeal with the STB, so I wasn't going to put them back in, only to take back out in another 5k or so. Maybe it's my imagination, but my butt dyno felt a huge power increase.

Yeah, they look good, but getting the old ones out was quite the ordeal with the STB, so I wasn't going to put them back in, only to take back out in another 5k or so. Maybe it's my imagination, but my butt dyno felt a huge power increase.Once they are out, no point putting them back, but it's interesting to see how good they look at around the 30K miles where they are scheduled to be changed.
A true power increase will also be reflected in better mpg, if you continue to drive in the same way that you did before without using the "increased" power.
It's not the same power increase you get from washing the car or changing the oil, is it?

A true power increase will also be reflected in better mpg, if you continue to drive in the same way that you did before without using the "increased" power.

Yeah I know. It's tough, but I am trying to be good.

It's not the same power increase you get from washing the car or changing the oil, is it?

lol, no.

10. Once the plug is screwed in you can use the torque wrench to tighten it to 13 ft lbs
-or-
after it's hand-tight tighten it 1/2 a turn more.


I bought bosch platinum+4 and it sais 21 ft lbs. Do different makes of spark plugs get different torque? Does using anti seize compound affect the recommended torque? I was confused and needed to use the car so installed mine doing 1/2 turn witch was 18 lb. Did I hurt anything? should I adjust it and if so to what?

"10. Once the plug is screwed in you can use the torque wrench to tighten it to 13 ft lbs -or- after it's hand-tight tighten it 1/2 a turn more."
I bought bosch platinum+4 and it sais 21 ft lbs. Do different makes of spark plugs get different torque? Does using anti seize compound affect the recommended torque? I was confused and needed to use the car so installed mine doing 1/2 turn witch was 18 lb. Did I hurt anything? should I adjust it and if so to what?
That sounds OK according to http://www.nology.com/torque.html.
I always use anti-seize to avoid problems. My brother was once unable to get a dry plug out of the engine, afraid he was about to ruin the threads, had to leave it halfway out and run like that until he took the car to a shop.[/i]

mine has 55k on it and the idle is rough. gonna go buy some plugs at autozone today and put them in, thanks for the write up

... I also changed the pcv valve both were in terrible condition ...
How can you tell if a PCV valve is in bad condition?

You really cant tell for sure. even if it rattles, it may not be working correctly. For $4.00, just replace it.

my plugs looked just like the one above. it was pretty ugly. hopefully idle is smoothed out with the new plugs....i got ngk plugs that were 3 bucks a plug.

Just changed my xB RS 1.0's plugs to NGK Iridium iX-11 with the .044 gap...

Everything went smoothly, works fine. Was a little scared when I started breaking the old plugs free. Don't think the dealer used anti-seize on the first replacement.

Can't believe I didn't do this sooner.

Great write up!

Super helpful DIY. Thanks!

I plan on changing my plugs today. I bought NGK platinum, the store clerk said they are pregapped. I dont think they are I will check them with a gauge.

My question, I dont have a torque wrench. How imperative is it to have the riight pressure for installing them?

Also, what are the specs for the pcv valve? My car store didnt have a record of them.

thank for the DIY

Also, what are the specs for the pcv valve? My car store didnt have a record of them.

ask for the 2004 M.Y. ( Echo, xB/xA) pcv valve it'll fit all the way up to 06 M.Y.

How critical is it that you use a torque wrench when changing these spark plugs? I put them in myself and just didnt over tighten them. The engine runs fine and I average 3500rpms at 70mph,about the same as before

How critical is it that you use a torque wrench when changing these spark plugs? I put them in myself and just didnt over tighten them. The engine runs fine and I average 3500rpms at 70mph,about the same as before

You will get different opinions on this, but I say do the job right and torque them to spec.

Torque is one of the most critical aspects of spark plug installation. Torque directly affects the spark plugs' ability to transfer heat out of the combustion chamber. A spark plug that is under-torqued will not be fully seated on the cylinder head, hence heat transfer will be slowed. This will tend to elevate combustion chamber temperatures to unsafe levels, and pre-ignition and detonation will usually follow. Serious engine damage is not far behind.

An over-torqued spark plug can suffer from severe stress to the Metal Shell which in turn can distort the spark plug's inner gas seals or even cause a hairline fracture to the spark plug's insulator...in either case, heat transfer can again be slowed and the above mentioned conditions can occur.

hmm, interesting. I am kinda concerned. I have put about 1,000 miles on since I changed them and nothing seems wrong. I'd just hate to do serious damage. A good torque wrench seems to be pretty expensive, So I guess I would need to take it into a garage.

...A good torque wrench seems to be pretty expensive, So I guess I would need to take it into a garage.

Nah, you should be able to get one for under $40. Maybe that is expensive, but not as expensive as fixing something (engine-wise) because the spark plug is torqued to the wrong spec. Im sure you would end up dropping at least $20 for a shop to torque 'em for you.

If you are even slightly into working on your own ride, I would recommend one for sure.

Edit - heres one for $25: http://toolsandmore.us/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=1157

nice, thanks for the help!!! i will pick one up

What do you think of this torque wrench??

http://www.lategreatchevy.com/product.asp?pf_id=564020&dept_id=120&cm_mmc=Froogle-_-Car+Care+%26+Tools+-+General+Tools-_-564020-_-X

Personally, Im not a fan of beam-style wrenches. When you apply force on the handle, the handle deflects, but the pointer remains straight to indicate how much torque is being applied. The pointer scale typically has calibration marks every 5 lbs. (on a ft.-lbs. scale). To read the scale accurately, you must look at it straight on. You may also have to "estimate" the actual reading if the pointer is between lines.

I like the "click type" style. But either one will do you fine, just make sure you use them correctly.

yes spend about 75 dollars and get the one that clicks it'll pay it self off over the years... its worth its weight in gold!!!

I kinda figured the same thing. I couldnt imagine that beam-style one being very accurate. How about the one that you linked earlier? Is that a "click type", if so, thats a good deal for $25.

Again, thanks for your input!

good thread

How critical is it that you use a torque wrench when changing these spark plugs? I put them in myself and just didnt over tighten them. The engine runs fine and I average 3500rpms at 70mph, about the same as before Can spark plug torque affect the rpms at 70 mph?

Not real sure Vintage. I just stated that to indicate that I think the engine is running fine. But I could be totally off base

I had some nasty yellow sulfur looking crap on my OEM Denso plugs when i swapped them for the NGK Iridium BKR5EIX-11 plugs. On the threads there was a lot of black carbon stuff. Is that normal and what causes it? I also sort of broke one of the bolts holding a coil pack. It's cracked really and will not tighten down. It will have to do until i can get new ones on Wed. 8 inch pounds next time.

So if I used NGK-Platinum sparks, which i gapped at .032, what torque lbs should I set it at??

I just bought a torque wrench for rotating my tires (and for other things in the future of course), and got it off ebay $50 brand new shipped. A husky with 10-100ft/lbs range, excellent quality. They sell them normally at Home Depot, usually like $80 in the store!

I just bought a torque wrench for rotating my tires (and for other things in the future of course), and got it off ebay $50 brand new shipped. A husky with 10-100ft/lbs range, excellent quality. They sell them normally at Home Depot, usually like $80 in the store!

Good deal man!

Torque wrenchs come in hand for all sorts of jobs and is an important addition to any chest.

Who knows what torque to do these plugs at!?!?!?!

I bought NGK platinum and on the site, it says 14.5-26.1, thats a wide range. The original poster did his at 13lbs. So what should I use?? I was thinking 15

I made an executive decision and torqued them to 13lbs. I was surprised to see how loose they were. I had about another turn in each plug to get them there.

BTW. with a "click" type torque wrench, do you stop when you hear the first slight click??

What do you think of this torque wrench??

http://www.lategreatchevy.com/product.asp?pf_id=564020&dept_id=120&cm_mmc=Froogle-_-Car+Care+%26+Tools+-+General+Tools-_-564020-_-X
IF THERE IS A AUTOZONE NEAR,YOU CAN RENT IT FOR FREE

get iridiums (stock tCs already have them..so i heard) im going to swap mine out and give it to my dad =p. theres only 1k miles on it so it should have 59k miles to go.
really easy to do then most cars.

dont really need a spark plug remover my friend uses a rubber tube to get a hold of it. works like a charm.

get iridiums or double platinum so you dont have to gap it. and you'll feel the difference.

this is the best DIY on replacements i have seen. thanks!

SPARK PLUGS REPLACEMENT
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/images/tip/ngk24A.jpg
By: Brian
http://www.echodrivers.com/forums/images/avatars/1406583178406c64c761a9f.jpg (http://groups.msn.com/Sorensonbrian/sparkplugs.msnw)
This is my spark plug change on a 2004 xA. It had NGK V-power plugs and I replaced them with the same. $7 for 4 spark plugs at local auto-part stores.

Tools used:
-10mm socket w/wrench,
- 5/8 inch (16mm) spark plug wrench
- Torque wrench w/ 6 inch extension and 16mm socket
- Plug/shim gap measureing tool

Plus:
-4X NGK -bkr5eya
- 1 pack high temp anti-seize

1. I started with a cool engine. Used the 10mm socket to remove the engine covers 4 nuts
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/sparkplugs_xaxb/01.jpg

2. Under the engine cover I used a brush and towel to clean away dirt and debrit so it wouldn't be falling down the spark plug wells. Then I used the 10mm socket to remove the 4 bolts holding the coil packs/boots down.
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/sparkplugs_xaxb/02.jpg

3. Once all the bolts were out I did one replacement at a time. I removed the first boot from the plug by giving it a twist and pulling it off the plug. (if there isn't enough slack in the wire to pull it out, you can disconnect the clip)
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/sparkplugs_xaxb/03.jpg

4. With that out you can see down to the plug
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/sparkplugs_xaxb/04.jpg
You can insert the spark plug wrench and unscrew the plug counter clockwise
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/sparkplugs_xaxb/05.jpg
-or-
if it's stuck you can use a wrench (torque wrench in pic) and the 16mm socket on an extension to break it loose.
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/sparkplugs_xaxb/06.jpg

5. Once it's unscrewed the plug will stay in the plug wrench (if equipped with rubber grommet) and you can lift it right out. If you aren't using a plug wrench you can use a small section of hose to push down on the end of the plug or some other imagenative device.
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/sparkplugs_xaxb/07.jpg

6. Inspect the old spark plug. Here are some examples of what to look for. (http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/techinfo/spark_plugs/faq/faqread2.asp?nav=31200&country=US)Here's a side-by-side of the old and new plug. Notice the rounded electrode on the old plug and the slightly larger gap.
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/sparkplugs_xaxb/08.jpg

7. Check the gap on the new plugs. (old plug shown)
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/sparkplugs_xaxb/09.jpg

It should be 0.032 in. If it is bigger you can tap the plug on the electrode to close in the gap
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/sparkplugs_xaxb/10.jpg

-or-
if the gap is too small you can CAREFULLY pry it open some.
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/sparkplugs_xaxb/11.jpg

8. Coat the threads of the plug with antiseize. This will help on your next change and keep the plugs from getting seized up in the engine.
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/sparkplugs_xaxb/12.jpg

9. Now you can put the new plug in. Lower it doen into the hole. Start by turning the wrench counter-clockwise till you feel the threads "pop" a little (that's the starting point of the threads fitting correctly) then turn the wrench clockwise to screw the plug in. If you feel much resistance, unscrew the plug and start over. This is to keep you from "cross-threading" the plug (very bad) and forcing it in where it will almost definately get seized in the engine ( very pricey to fix).
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/sparkplugs_xaxb/13.jpg

*** another trick for beginners is to use a small section of hose. Fit it on the top of the plug and use it in place of the wrench to screw the plug in.
If the threads start to cross the hose will slip around the plug instead of forcing it in. (http://groups.msn.com/isapi/fetch.dll?action=MyPhotos_GetPubPhoto&PhotoID=nGQCXAokH4UpSBFdmK9fp5tuDGo8TgBV1UuX092rxqD7cmhBNM7glpaIcDwhHq7ha):relief:

10. Once the plug is screwed in you can use the torque wrench to tighten it to 13 ft lbs
-or-
after it's hand-tight tighten it 1/2 a turn more.

11. Put the boot back in and onto the plug.
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/sparkplugs_xaxb/14.jpg

12. Put the 10mm bolt back in to hold the coil pack/boot down
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/sparkplugs_xaxb/15.jpg


-13. Repeat steps 1-12 on the remaing plugs and put the engine cover back on.

Should only take about 15-30 minutes.
Faster than an oil change, cheaper than an oil change, yet so often neglected


Thanks for going thru al lthe work of writing this and posting pics. Made my 1st time a lot easier. Seeings as I have not been able to find a Repair manual for this your numbers were a great help. Thanks you again

My grandpa was a mechanic in the army for 10 years, got out, and went to work for GM and retired through them. So I like to think of him as my expert advice :). He always taught me to hand tighten spark plugs and we have never had any issues.

Hey.
I wanted to thank you as your clear instructions gave me no excuse not to change my plugs. Took me all of a half hour even with the hassle of having an upper-strut tie bar. The old plugs are pictured in the dictionary under "please change at once". Little black nubs were what I found. Thanks again.

2005 Scion Xa Burgundy 5-speed (never auto)
Empi wheels, Alpine stereo, sunroof, upperstrut tie-bag, massive rear sway bar, foglights and with 72k still looks close to new. :love:

You can buy Denso Iridium Plug for $7.62 at rockauto.com and Denso Iridium Long Life for $9.90. I have called two Scion service departments about using a higher grade plug. Both of them said that I should not, because in there parts book it does not list more than one spark plug for the Scion 2006 Xb. They said if other higher grade spark plugs could be used it usually lists them. Both of them said by using a higher grade spark plug that I COULD scorch the piston heads, because of the higher temp the higher grade spark plugs make. Has anybody else heard about this? I live in the St. Louis area. I wanted to get the higher grade spark plugs, but bought the Denso K16ru for $1.40 each at rockauto.com

You can buy Denso Iridium Plug for $7.62 at rockauto.com and Denso Iridium Long Life for $9.90. I have called two Scion service departments about using a higher grade plug. Both of them said that I should not, because in there parts book it does not list more than one spark plug for the Scion 2006 Xb. They said if other higher grade spark plugs could be used it usually lists them. Both of them said by using a higher grade spark plug that I COULD scorch the piston heads, because of the higher temp the higher grade spark plugs make. Has anybody else heard about this? I live in the St. Louis area. I wanted to get the higher grade spark plugs, but bought the Denso K16ru for $1.40 each at rockauto.com
For the 2004-2006 xB, people in the forum over the years have used these plugs with no problem:
NGK 6341 (OEM)
Denso K16R
NKG Iridium BKR5EIX
NKG Iridium BKR5EIX-11 pregapped to 44
Denso Iridium IK16
NKG Platinum BKR5EGP

At 30,000 miles I installed NKG BKR5EIX-11 Iridium plugs, pre-gapped to .044, in my 2006 xB, which now has 41,000 miles with no problem.

It is not possible for a spark plug to scorch a piston head. All spark plugs make a tiny spark, an insignificant source of heat compared to combustion of the mixture.

Nor can piston heads be scorched. If run long and hard with mixture that is too lean, and/or ignition timing too advanced, enough heat can be produced to melt a hole in the top of the piston. The ECU in modern engines does not allow these things to happen.

I changed the plugs in my Scion Xa when my gas mileage no longer was consistantly getting 40 mph. It dropped off to around 32mph almost over night. At 88,000 miles its first plug change, they were at 62 thousands when I pulled them, no wonder. Back to my 40 mph and wish I would have bought 2 of them when I bought it new, no regrets yet.

Old Classic:icon_smile: