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Well its about that time.....

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Old Nov 22, 2009 | 11:44 PM
  #1  
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Default Well its about that time.....

Poor 'ol Digi_Box is about to turn 60k soon....and I'm dreading the 60k maintenance.....anyone know what the cost generally is for it(full synthetic for oil portion, also already have NGK Iridium plugs)?.....He's only pulling in a meager 19mpg right now....poor thing
Old Nov 23, 2009 | 01:01 AM
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What's required at 60K? i'm at 67K, should probably check! I have just been doing my oil changes, using full synthetic. i did irridium plugs at 45K, went from 29/30 mpg to 32/33.
Old Nov 23, 2009 | 01:25 AM
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I hate to say it but they really do a whole lot of nothing........charge you a huge amount of money for that nothing........but it keeps the warrenty intact........oh wait there is no more warrenty at 60000 huh........

Honestly take the money.......this is just my opinion........and change your tranny fluid,oil,have the injectors cleaned with seafoam,and get a new airfilter and call it a day.......

Basically they look the car over from head to toe and then tell you what is in need of repair,they do not repair it for the cost,jsut tell you what needs done........
Old Nov 23, 2009 | 02:03 AM
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i went to bob bridge to get my 60k done and i paid $70......but i think i had a discount on my first service done and that was a year and a half
Old Nov 23, 2009 | 02:52 AM
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http://scionlife.org/Scion_Docs/2006_Scion_SMG.pdf

doesn't look like much, and i've heard our valves don't need adjusting this early. i think if you stay up on the oil, keep your air filter clean, and plugs every 30K, you'll be fine.
Old Nov 23, 2009 | 02:55 AM
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Here is what gets done.......basically a very expensive oil change....you can check your own belts,battery,brakes,suspension.......

Replace cabin air filter Replace engine air filter Replace engine oil and oil filter 1 Rotate tires Inspect the following: Ball joints and dust covers Brake lines and hoses Brake linings/drums and brake pads/discs 4 Drive belts 5 Drive shaft boots Engine coolant 3 Engine valve clearance 6 Exhaust pipes and mountings Front differential oil Fuel lines and connections, fuel tank band and fuel tank vapor vent system hoses Fuel tank cap gasket Radiator and condenser Steering gear box Steering linkage and boots Transmission fluid or oil
Additional Maintenance Items for Special Operating Conditions:

Driving While Towing Replace differential oil Replace transmission fluid or oil Tighten nuts and bolts on chassis and body Driving on Dirt Roads or Dusty Roads Tighten nuts and bolts on chassis Applicable Footnotes: 1) Reset the oil replacement reminder light ("MAINT REQD") or the message "OIL MAINTENANCE REQUIRED" on the multi-information display after engine oil replacement.
3) Refer to "Engine Coolant" in the "Explanation of Maintenance Items" section in the back of this guide for more information.
4) Inspect thickness measurement and disc runout.
5) Initial inspection at 60,000 miles/72 months. Inspect every 15,000 miles/18 months thereafter.
6) Except Camry equipped with 2GR-FE

I am not saying do not get it done,just that you are spending a lot of money for stuff you can do yourself.....they charge extra to change anything like tranny fluid,brakes,and all the other stuff.......it is not included.
Old Nov 23, 2009 | 04:27 PM
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I agree with Brian, they don't do much.. Just do the basic service stuff like oil change spark plugs air filter (if you still have stock one) maybe a fuel filter, rad fluid change & auto or m/t tanny fluid change

i'm over 70k and i didn't do the 60k service. i'm still at 29 to 31mpg even w/ my turbo and running just fine right now.

i wouldn't waste the money 'cause it is super expensive. I'm sure most of the things that need to be done can be done by the community or some other ma & pa auto mechanic for good price & w/ good work
Old Nov 23, 2009 | 08:11 PM
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some small things to know

1...besides the timing chain, i have heard it is considered an engine lifetime part and probably should only be changed during a rebuild or if you hear excessive chatter coming from that area. the timing belt on other non chain motors usually requires replacement around 60k our chains don't.

2...and as far as the lifters. the 1nzfe, 2azfe doesnt have adjustment. if you hear noise you need to select proper fitting replacement lifters. its unfortunate but the design is a lot less prone to malfunction.

so don't expect to just pull the valve cover off and tighten a few loose nuts. so for the trade off for reliability ill deal with a little noise.....

so 2 major things down.....

among other things i would check if your so inclined is to see how the timing chain tensioner is doing. because even though they are great some chains may stretch a tiny bit over a long period causing them to loosen slightly.

change all of your fluids coolant, oil, drivetrain fluids, check you power steering and brake fluid color (if is it getting dark or really dark its time to change it...)

after 3 years even the best coolant loses its ability to prevent internal coolant system corrosion. which can lead to failures.

your sparkplugs should be good up to 100k, buttttttt you should pull them to inspect for abnormal desposites and the presences of coolant water or oil. all of these can be easy ways to foresee early engine problems and make sure you kick the problems ___ and not the other way around.

chart located here reading_spark_plugs.jpg

check your belts, hoses, and egr setup (especially of your turbo)

check all of your chassis bolts, and your cv axle boots for wear.

and don't forget a basic chassis lube...

hope it helps i know i forgot something....

oh yeah make sure to replace your blinker fluid...
Old Nov 24, 2009 | 02:21 AM
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^they actually recomend changing the plugs every 30K for some reason I would deff recommend checking the chasis bolts and have everything inspected but do the fluid / filter changes yourself...thats what tech days are for! And I rund mobil 1 full sythetic 5w-30 in both cars changed every 5k. Buy the 5+quart jug as its a better deal than even 4 seperate quarts usually,and watch the papers for coupons.

19mpg...have you changed your air filter yet/recently? Also any hesitation at all? If so try "heet." Its a little yellow bottle in the additives section @ the parts store. Run it a little strong, and give that a try...hopefully something dumb.
Old Nov 24, 2009 | 02:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Kanchi
^they actually recomend changing the plugs every 30K for some reason I would deff recommend checking the chasis bolts and have everything inspected but do the fluid / filter changes yourself...thats what tech days are for! And I rund mobil 1 full sythetic 5w-30 in both cars changed every 5k. Buy the 5+quart jug as its a better deal than even 4 seperate quarts usually,and watch the papers for coupons.

19mpg...have you changed your air filter yet/recently? Also any hesitation at all? If so try "heet." Its a little yellow bottle in the additives section @ the parts store. Run it a little strong, and give that a try...hopefully something dumb.
arent you the one who told me the stock plugs on our cars were good for 100k. meaning tc only?

Last edited by alienvictim; Nov 24, 2009 at 04:21 AM.
Old Nov 24, 2009 | 02:47 AM
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they are supposed to be good for 100000 but they can fail,especially when the weather gets cold and wet it tends to take older plugs down quick.
Old Nov 24, 2009 | 02:55 AM
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Originally Posted by BZinn1
they are supposed to be good for 100000 but they can fail,especially when the weather gets cold and wet it tends to take older plugs down quick.
omg yes i know this, i was told by someone that these particular factory plugs are good to 100k, but than again that's
why i stated you should check their condition. so you can catch the problems they may have or be causing. normally i do
change them as soon as the electrodes start to show decent wear.

also out of clarification apparently the tc is the only scion with 100k plugs, so i guess i assumed it ran a crossed the board for the xb as well, an i guess was mistaken.

thanks brian good advice!

Last edited by alienvictim; Nov 24, 2009 at 04:21 AM.
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