preapty

Can folks in here confirm if they've experience trouble shifting into 5th gear on a consistent basis? For some reason I have a terrible time finding the catching point for 5th gear. No grinding, but sometimes I have to take my foot off the clutch and press it in a second time for I find the catching point. If I dont find the catching point the shifter will pop out of 5th. Dangerous

please comment...Thanks

TrevorS

iTrader: (1)

How many miles do you have and for roughly how many miles has this been happening?

dirtfan1981

I havent had trouble. Course my is a 2010, with 600 miles. lol

xtylerx

iTrader: (1)

No trouble here, 5200mi. It did take me a few days to get used to downshifting into 4th, and reverse can be a pain sometimes but nothing major.

KaneoheKoa

I haven't had problems getting into 5th, but like xtrlerx, reverse is sometimes a pain. If your car is new, let it break in a little. If you feel uncomfortable about that, take it back to the dealer and have them check it. Afterall, the strive for a happy customer, not a worried one.

XD40tC

Get redline mt90 I guarantee a fix! Or Eneos.

SquallLHeart

i've never felt any problems when i drive xB2's

tainoxl

I barely even use my clutch to shift gears but 2nd gear does seem to be a bit rough.

mikeyxB

it was rough for my 08< now i have 20k on the clock, it smoothed out a bit.

chief52

I have a new 09 sB with a MT. No problems with about 1200 miles. However, some small cars with MT the final gear or the overdrive gear is actually controlled by engine vaccume. I had this problem with an older Hyundai Excell. I learned the hard way when the dealer told me I needed major trannywork, to the tune of about 900 bucks. Left the dealer and drove 10 miles and it still did it.Brought it back and they told me there was a loose connection on the vaccume hose. Don't know if this appies to the Scion.

TrevorS

iTrader: (1)

The xB2 5spd manual is entirely manual (no vacuum operated O/D), and I've yet to have any problems getting into gear -- I fully use the clutch for every shift. Still, mine is very young at 4K.

PS. If you don't use the clutch, you are almost certainly going to wear the synchonizers resulting in serious shift problems and expensive transmission repair work.

tainoxl

lol, u are right though. U should still know how to drive without it as it may come in handy to get u home.

TrevorS

iTrader: (1)

My Eclipse clutch slave cylinder failed at 124K, fortunately, I had barely gotten out of my drive when it died. My neighbor helped me push the car back into the gargage and after investigating my problem I ordered both slave and master from car-stuff.com (if one goes, the other probably isn't too far behind).

After installation/flush/bleed three days later, all was well. For most people, if either slave or master fails, it's a towing situation -- and probably to the shop, I was just lucky plus stubborn enough to do the work myself.

The stress/damage to the manual transmission components associated with revving the engine (so it doesn't stall) and slamming it into gear could easily be greater than would warrant the tow cost -- about $50 in my area. Frankly, I recommend a tow !

kc2hje

had the clutch cable snap on my 83 prelude and still managed to drive home and to the junkyard. Only problem now is the cars wont start unless you hold the clutch down.

Speaking of has anyone done a clutch bypass switch?

mobilejay

I've got an 09 with just over 15k miles, the only problem I have ever had and its only happend about 4 maybe 5 times. Getting into first can be hard, I'll have the clutch fully in and it will not go into first gear at all. A few times of throwing it into 2nd or 3rd and then back to 1st resolves it. Like I said, only 4 or 5 times in the 9 months.

TrevorS

iTrader: (1)

If that behavior becomes more of a habit, you may want to try replacing the transmission fluid with something better. I had that problem with my Eclipse and it gradually got worse and worse, but draining the fluid and replacing with Pennzoil Syncromesh completely solved the problem (the owner's manual said only to check and top off the fluid as needed, no mention of replacing). You could also try replacing with a synthetic (Royal Purple or Redline for example). Immediately after that experience with the gear box, I put Syncromesh in the transfer case and Royal Purple in the rear differential (owner's manual again just says to check and top off as needed.)

preapty

My xB is a 2010 with 7500 miles on it. I didn't mention this, but I had the dealership install the TRD LSD and clutch when I bought the car. The TRD quick shifter I installed later on and I just recently installed the NST cable tranny brushing. Which has somewhat corrected the issue for the other gears, but fifth is still not smooth. I might just have to schedule my next oil change at the dealership I bought the car from. I might want them to test drive the car. It happens consistently, not only when spiritedly driving, but also on daily cruise. I dont know why but I feel Honda makes the best trannys, never had a problem. Thanks for the feedback.

TrevorS

iTrader: (1)

FWIW -- I've read posts saying the TRD quick shifter makes the shift somewhat notchy. My own is OE and it's not notchy at all (IMO), but perhaps that's a contributing factor to what you're experiencing? I envy you the LSD, and I can't imagine how its presence could contribute to your issue. Hope you can figure something out at the dealer .

Schmohey

Is it normal for the gears to not get into gear or grind during cold weather? I have a hard time shifting into second when the car is cold.

TrevorS

iTrader: (1)

Just a thought -- the colder the weather, the slower the transmission is probably going to want to shift (the fluid thickens a little). It absolutely should not grind unless you release the clutch too early (or too late when begining the shift, of course). When it's balky, it disturbs your shift rhythm and that can result in early clutch pedal release and hence grinding.

My best guess is that you're trying to push the gear shift more quickly than it wants to perform the shift (thickened fluid again). Try easing off a little -- pause in the shift motion for the synchros to be ready to accept the next gear (you can feel the difference in lever resistance). Absolutely don't try to force it if it doesn't want to go. In that situation, slow down the shift, and you could also try easing partially into the opposite gate direction gear and then back into the gear you want.

Of course, there's also double-clutching which pretty much takes the synchros out of the equation. However, my guess is that in the cold, it just doesn't want to shift as quickly as you want it to. Don't try to force it -- instead, cooperate with it !