buickid

I was doing some searching, and I found that some Highlanders with the 2AZ-FE engine had an optional 130A, probably part of a tow package or cold-weather package of some sort. Our factory alt is only 100A, so if it works, this could be a possible cheap drop-in upgrade. Anyway, the Toyota part number is 27060-28290, and it can be found in a 2005 Highlander. Probably other years too. From some simple line drawings, it looks like it should bolt up. My question is whether or not the electrical connector will plug in...

donnyp05tc

the electrical plugs should be the same. So as long as it bolts up correctly, it should work.

speakerboy

That would be a neat upgrade. Older Highlanders should be easy to find, although the 4cylinders weren't very popular. on Car-part.com, it looks like they are running for under $100.

xseveredveganx

It's worth a try, bro. If you can scoop one up on the cheap, you're set!!! Better than dropping $400+ on a high output alt from a company.

You'll probably still have to get an NST pulley. The tC pulley is much too large to get the belt on. Been there... IN the middle of the snow and cold.

speakerboy

What about the highlander pulley already on it? Or can't you just swap your stock pulley off?

nodsetse

If you do proceed with this, it might be a good idea to upgrade the fuseable link in your fusebox too. The main link they have between the amp & battery is 120amps, and if that's for protection with a 100amp alt, it seems appropriate to replace it with one that'll support the 130amp alt.

buickid

I did the Big 3, so the majority of the current should go through my 1/0

xseveredveganx

I'm sure you could use the OEM xB pulley, but it has a clutch of sorts on it. If you look at the pulley itself, there's a little extra snout on it. Inside that snout is a clutch. I pulled off the seal and it's a little different. I chose to use the NST pulley on my h/o alt.

I may sell my alternator in lieu of a DC Power unit.

randomsuper

keep us (me) posted if you do.

speakerboy

Fusible links can be expensive. I would replace it with a circuit breaker if I was doing it.

xseveredveganx

I was actually going to hit you up on ROE in regards to selling my alt. But I really have no idea what to ask for it.
No real need to if you add the big 3 wire when you add the alternator. I've been running my 180amp alternator with the big 3 upgrade with a REAL 3000watt amplifier for the past 2 years. Absolutely no problems.

I'm sure replacing the fusible link with a larger unit, or even a circuit breaker, could be better. But no real need to.
When you think about it, the car itself will not be pulling any more (or less for that matter) current with a high output alternator than a regular OEM unit. The amplifiers will, hence why they have their own run of wire.

speakerboy

On the surface, it makes sense, but the fusible link is there to protect the fuse box, in case something bad happens. If you follow that thinking, why fuse your amps? I've seen regulators go bad, something shorts in the fuse box and starts pulling crazy current, etc. you are just asking for trouble if you don't fuse it.

randomsuper

vegan, just let me know what you're looking to get for it. hopefully we can work something out once you get your new one.

xseveredveganx

Meh. OEM fusible link hasn't failed in 2 years. I doubt it will unless something goes wrong (i.e. dead short). Otherwise I see no reason to.
If you're speaking of the big 3 wire from the alternator to the battery, I agree. It does need to be fused.

xseveredveganx

Will do, bro!

DC Power unit I was looking at:
http://www.dcpowerinc.com/alternator...lternator.html

Those guys know their stuff. I may go with DB Linc. My buddy got 8 Kinetik HC16V's from the owner...

randomsuper

that alt is bad butt.

nodsetse

I'll agree with that, since the stock fusible link should still pop if there's a dead short, protecting the car's electrical system.

I don't know why not, but most people who've done the big 3 didn't use any protection, just ran the wire directly from the alt to battery. I'm sure they feel there's little to no risk, but wired that way they're bypassing the fusible link in the fuse box, so if they ever do get a dead short, they'll be sorry. I used a 100amp resettable circuit breaker between the alt & battery positive for my big 3, and even though it costs a bit more that way, the piece of mind makes it worthwhile, imo.

xseveredveganx

I agree, but the alternator positive wire goes directly to the battery to my understanding... Not to the fuse block. There's usually 3 wires on the positive terminal of a battery. One goes to the alternator, the other goes to the starter, and the last one goes to the fuse box.

I could be wrong, though. But I doubt it.

buickid

As it stands now, I believe my system is adequately protected. The alternator to battery run is unfused, but the run is short and unlikely to be chafed/cut by anything. The long run to the rear battery is more concerning, so I have put a 200A fuse on that. The fusible link should blow if something in the fusebox goes wrong. Normally I believe the fusible link goes between the alternator and battery. Although a good safety feature, it might be hard finding upgraded fusible links that fit our application. I believe in doing a clean install that reduces the risks, and fusing the risks that cannot be reasonably reduced.

speakerboy

I thought you had replaced the fusible link from your battery to your fuse box in your car with a straight wire. THAT would be bad - I think we can all agree. The "Big 3" in my experience really has 4 wires:
1. Alt to battery
2. battery to ground
3. alt to ground
4. engine to ground