buickid

Just curious if anyone's added wiring for door speakers...
Does the xB have molex connectors, or just the rubber boot with wires going through it?
I got a set of DLS X-Program SA62 6.5" comps and a Tru Technology Steel Series S44 amp waiting for me when I get home for the summer. Gonna be pushing 200x2!

Thanks,
Trevor

rakisto

ooo excellent question lol. i would like to know as well for my beautiful ppi 356cs going in front and back doors

thanks for asking this!

Slody4Futbol

i'm almost positive it's rubber boots and no molex..
*EDIT* saw where you said get home for the summer.. assuming you're not around the vehicle.. ^___^

buickid

Thats correct, I'm several thousand miles away from it. Makes me sad! :[

buickid

Also, does anyone know if the speakers have plastic rain shields in them from the factory? Don't want my new comps getting wet! :o

xseveredveganx

OEM speakers have a little guard around them. I'm not sure if it's necessarilly a rain diverter, but something is there. I made speaker adapters out of MDF. The OEM speakers have a triangular mount. I do believe Elemental Designs makes these. I've been looking on the DIY Mobile Audio forums, and looks like everyone is straying away from MDF and using HDPE plastic cutting boards... MDF can get wet, expand, and eventually possibly mold. Not something I'd want in my doors. Especially being in such an humid place as Hawaii. I'm sure MDF soaks up moisture from the air really quick. I'd definitely look into the HDPE plastic for adapter construction.
No Molex, however running wires in through the rubber boot on the driver's side is very tedious. I'll be running 2 new sets to each door.

You can only guess what for... I finally scooped up an SAX-100.4D. :D

buickid

Thanks for the great advice, you always give good advice
My friend is going to see if he can get some of those foam baffle things cheap for me, since he runs a shop. I plan to cut them in half and just shield the top half, so it doesn't affect the acoustics. The HDPE boards are a good idea, but I wonder if they wouldn't resonate. MDF is ideal because it gives just a little. Some guys treat the MDF baffles with fiberglassing resin to prevent them from absorbing moisture. The no molex thing is good, I plan to mount the crossovers in the kick panels, so it'll be easy to get four wires though, hopefully. (Going with 16ga).

The SAX-100.4 should be awesome! I wanted to go all Sundown amplification, but a local dealer cut me an awesome package deal. The DLS comps normally go for ~$500 and the Tru Technology S44 for ~$800, but he cut me a package deal for $600. I'm told these were display models, but everything is in brand-new shape! This amp has spectacular reviews, said to be acoustically transparent and accurate. Not as much power as a 100.4 bridged, but probably plenty enough for me. I'd probably go deaf with the 100.4 anyway

xseveredveganx

If I got a gangster deal on DLS and/or TRU, I'd run it.

Ultimately I want to run all Arc SE series, but that won't be for a while. Loooong while. I'd rather put that kind of money into a Lexus. *hides*

KaneoheKoa

After opening my doors more than I want to remember, I can say that there are NO Molex connectors in the doors. Why would any car company use an industrial standard connector when a custom made by the factory one will work as well for more money?

Seriously, Molex are great, but only if you're going to make a non-permanent install. Soldering or crimping (I use a Klien crimping tool) is better. I used MDF for my speaker mounts, but I first gave them a "wash coat" of 1 part oil base polyurethane with 4 parts naptha. Make your speaker mount, cut the mounting hole and drill the screw holes. Then liberally brush on the wash and let it soak in. The edges will soak up a lot, so keep applying it until it won't accept any more, then wipe off the excess and let dry for a day or two. When that's done, I give it a light sanding and one final full strength coat of poly and let dry for another day. Then I mounted it into the car. I know it takes a bit longer than glassing it, but it really protects the wood.

I also used an ETC foam baffle and cut out the lower half of the cup, but I kept the rim intact. The baffle went between my MDF speaker mount and the door's sheet metal. It acts as both a weather cover and a gasket.

Buickid, might I suggest your mount the crossover near the back of the door. I put my Infinity xovers there was room to spare between the door body and plastic panel. I made the mistake of running heavy wall 14ga wire thru the boot: the language that came from my carport sent children running in fear, women weeping and brought grown men to their knees. I can't imagine trying to get 2 pairs of wires thru there! Just tape the wires down with Gorilla tape (duct tape is for wimps).

buickid

I'm not sure if they're actually made by Molex, but they use em so you can disconnect the door from the body quickly.
I wanted to mount the crossovers in the kicks so they're not subject to door slamming and such, and the tweeter adjustment is easier to get to. We shall see though.

RC-PILOT

Ok, I am a nu-b so why do you use or where do you use the MDF? I want to replace my door speakers too, so I would like to be ready for what to expect. Can I see a pic or someone explain it to me? Thanks

buickid

This is a random one I grabbed from google, but the idea is the same.