Zero Point Industries a leader in the Subaru arena has now taken what they have learned at building Subaru and applied it to the tC. With many new products to come from Zero Point and the ZPI Racing product line in the next few months.

This is their Stage 1 head package currently offered for the tC. The stock head was found to be very restrictive the Stage 1 head flows 38% better on our flow bench than the stock head. This is with retaining stock valves you can expect an even more significant gain as Stage 2 and 3 become available later in the spring.

click the link to read the rest of the article;
http://www.tctunerz.com/article-zone/engine/zpi-racing-stage-1-head-package-for-the-scion-tc.html


http://www.tctunerz.com/images/stories/albums/sciontc-engine-zpi/scion_tc_head_package_1.jpg

@ $550 with 30HP wheel gain...could this be the best source for HP for the money yet?

"The intake and exhaust are port matched the whole head is ported and polished the valves are reworked to our confidential specs. The greatest thing about this mod is that the dealership will never know if you have to take it in for a warranty issue. "

Im not really familiar with these terms, if you could explain, or link me to a page that could explain port matching, and ported/polished heads, that would be great. Also, how could it be that the dealership wouldn't know this has been done. If a machanic has seen hundreds of these engines(b/c it is the same engine shared with the camry), dont you think he'll pick up these changes that have been done?

sounds like a bang for the buck, however i would like to see some dynos

Once I see a dyno I'll definately be interested.

This would be a great mod for those with a S/C through the dealer, and want the most HP possible.

Wow 30 HP for stage 1 wonder how much Stage 2 or 3 will have? even if stage three is only 50hp its probably not gonna be more than 1200 which is a lot cheaper than the S/C but having both oooh the possibilities only if I could afford both :pray:

ZPI is right down the street from me, they have a really nice shop, very clean and do good work.
i guess i will have to go over there and check it out

Wow 30 HP for stage 1 wonder how much Stage 2 or 3 will have? even if stage three is only 50hp its probably not gonna be more than 1200 which is a lot cheaper than the S/C but having both oooh the possibilities only if I could afford both :pray:

It says "up to 30whp"... Do not expect that much just from bolting it on. You will have to get some fuel adjustments made to compensate for the added airflow. Headers that are port matched to the exhaust ports on the head will also be ideal in getting out as much air as possible, with minimal turbulance. I'd also expect 30whp only under boosted conditions.

Who knows though, but either way, I have thought of the tC needed much better top end, and this mod should help. We shall see once the dyno's are released.

I want to see a dyno too. How does Torque and HP do behave across the powerband compared to the stock unit?

Factual data will be appreciated

I want to see a dyno too. How does Torque and HP do behave across the powerband compared to the stock unit?

Factual data will be appreciated

Even if its 20hp its still worth it .But i need to see the numbers also i would hope that it wouldnt screw low end .

You will have to get some fuel adjustments made to compensate for the added airflow. Headers that are port matched to the exhaust ports on the head will also be ideal in getting out as much air as possible, with minimal turbulance.

Will a aftermarket header or the supercharger still work with bigger ports?

Dyno numbers will be posted on our site next week including ordering information pertaining to the core exchange.

This will go great with my nitrous kit, k&n intake, and injen exhaust. What is involved in the install? Is it something i should be able to do in my garage at home?

you will be the first one to blow up your engine :rofl: na for real though..... if your running nos and considering this, you should seriously consider having it profesionally done........

you will be the first one to blow up your engine :rofl: na for real though..... if your running nos and considering this, you should seriously consider having it profesionally done........

Next week we will have updated ordering and installation information on our site with dyno results. It is highly recommended to have a pro install due to major labor involved with install including removal of oil pan, engine mount and other components.

Nawz!!! d00d...dont screw up the new engine...get boosted

"The intake and exhaust are port matched the whole head is ported and polished the valves are reworked to our confidential specs. The greatest thing about this mod is that the dealership will never know if you have to take it in for a warranty issue. "

Im not really familiar with these terms, if you could explain, or link me to a page that could explain port matching, and ported/polished heads, that would be great. Also, how could it be that the dealership wouldn't know this has been done. If a machanic has seen hundreds of these engines(b/c it is the same engine shared with the camry), dont you think he'll pick up these changes that have been done?

During the manufacturing process of the clylinder head casting rough surfaces exist thoughout the heads. The head is machined so that valve guides and valves seat correctly.

Exhaust Port matching means removing extra material from the cylinder head were the exhaust manifold bolts to the head. Intake Port matching means removing extra material from the cylinder head were the intake manifold bolts to the head. Normally material at these openings would be removed to allow a smoother entrance of air and exhaust gasses in and out of the head.

Porting & polishing is a continuing of portmatching to the head from the opening of the port to the valve the entire port is ground smooth and polished (look at the picture) that allows even more free flow of gasses.

Clyinder head work is for a machinist that really knows what he's doing. Hours and hours of R&D to find the right balance of how much Air the engine can consume and how fast it can get the air out.

A dyno sheet will help show how the modifications will help or hurt the performance of your engine.

Modifications are designed for a specific RPM range. If this machine work is for High RPM it will more than likely hurt low RPM torque and horsepower driveability and fuel economy. Before considering any engine mod you have to be honest with yourself is that the engine RPM that I normally run my motor at.

For me I'd like to find some mods that would help out below the 4500 RPM most of my driving is just cruising back and forth to work.

finding 30 or 40 horse at 7000 RPM might just turn my 33MPG slug into a 20MPG slower slug.

If you take it into the dealer with and engine problem and they have to open it up to see what happened to cause your engine problem the mechanic WILL know that that is not a stock head. Warranty VOID.
BTW I metioned 33MPG in previous post I was thinking of my XB. My Wife's TC is getting 29 but you understand my point.

Vince

"The intake and exhaust are port matched the whole head is ported and polished the valves are reworked to our confidential specs. The greatest thing about this mod is that the dealership will never know if you have to take it in for a warranty issue. "

Im not really familiar with these terms, if you could explain, or link me to a page that could explain port matching, and ported/polished heads, that would be great. Also, how could it be that the dealership wouldn't know this has been done. If a machanic has seen hundreds of these engines(b/c it is the same engine shared with the camry), dont you think he'll pick up these changes that have been done?

Very valid points, all text is from manufacture and any questions posted on this post will be answered in detail next week.
During the manufacturing process of the clylinder head casting rough surfaces exist thoughout the heads. The head is machined so that valve guides and valves seat correctly.

Exhaust Port matching means removing extra material from the cylinder head were the exhaust manifold bolts to the head. Intake Port matching means removing extra material from the cylinder head were the intake manifold bolts to the head. Normally material at these openings would be removed to allow a smoother entrance of air and exhaust gasses in and out of the head.

Porting & polishing is a continuing of portmatching to the head from the opening of the port to the valve the entire port is ground smooth and polished (look at the picture) that allows even more free flow of gasses.

Clyinder head work is for a machinist that really knows what he's doing. Hours and hours of R&D to find the right balance of how much Air the engine can consume and how fast it can get the air out.

A dyno sheet will help show how the modifications will help or hurt the performance of your engine.

Modifications are designed for a specific RPM range. If this machine work is for High RPM it will more than likely hurt low RPM torque and horsepower driveability and fuel economy. Before considering any engine mod you have to be honest with yourself is that the engine RPM that I normally run my motor at.

For me I'd like to find some mods that would help out below the 4500 RPM most of my driving is just cruising back and forth to work.

finding 30 or 40 horse at 7000 RPM might just turn my 33MPG slug into a 20MPG slower slug.

mmm...why did tctunerz just quote Hippy?

chris

I've been posting from my Sidekick 2 and tried to quote the post regarding the different types of porting however I don't think it worked right.

I can't wait till the HP iPAQ gets off backorder!

Thanks for the info hippy, i was a little bit weiry when they said that the dealer wouldn't know the engine had been modified. I guess what they meant was they wouldn't know it if they just looked at it, without taking it apart.

This will go great with my nitrous kit, k&n intake, and injen exhaust. What is involved in the install? Is it something i should be able to do in my garage at home?

This is definately something you don't want to do yourself, especially if you have to ask if you can or not. No offense, this is just one of the most vital parts of the motor and it has to be perfect. Things as small as a specific pattern and routine for torque-ing down the head steads have to be perfect or kiss the motor goodbye. A warped head will blow HG's left and right, and you will have fun finding someone to re-machine it for you.

I'm not trying to scare anyone, a head is a great mod, just get it professionally done and reep the benefits.

This will go great with my nitrous kit, k&n intake, and injen exhaust. What is involved in the install? Is it something i should be able to do in my garage at home?

This is definately something you don't want to do yourself, especially if you have to ask if you can or not. No offense, this is just one of the most vital parts of the motor and it has to be perfect. Things as small as a specific pattern and routine for torque-ing down the head steads have to be perfect or kiss the motor goodbye. A warped head will blow HG's left and right, and you will have fun finding someone to re-machine it for you.

I'm not trying to scare anyone, a head is a great mod, just get it professionally done and reep the benefits.

thank you for that good answer ill check and see how mutch my local shop will charge to instaall

does ZPI have one for the XB?

Core charge and install pics please? and a dyno on a stock tC with no mods.

I just want to thank everyone for the interest in our products. I just want to clarify some of the speculation that we have been reading. You will realize at least 24-whp gains with no other supporting mods. With our 2.5” cat back and a K&N cold air we realized 31 whp increase with just the head. We speculate with out intake manifold and throttle body this number will raise even more. This is all done on a stock ecu; we have a couple scions here with E-manage and a AFC but these gains are realizes with on the stock ecu.

The gas mileage concern is way off. We have not specifically tested the gas mileage as all we do with the three TC’s that we own is build parts for them and ream on them. You should realize a gain in gas mileage not a decrease. All we are doing is making a bottle necked head more efficient; this is the same theory to an exhaust or an intake. If drive the exact same as you did before then you will not seem some big drop in gas mileage.

Now to the head package we do these in house they are flowed on our super flow; flow bench. 38% increase with stock valves is a huge increase. The drivability in these cars comes to life with this package. The throttle response is incredible and the car revs so much better. This is a great addition to any power adder that you decide to go with. Our turbo kit will be released in the beginning of March as we are almost out of the R&D stage. We will also be releasing a 2.5 cat back that is done now; a 3” turbo back that will bolt on with our kit, fuel rail kits, and sheet metal intake manifolds. Throttle bodies, etc..

All of our parts will be available exclusively through tctunerz.com for the time being. If you are interested in having us install these parts at our facility in Louisville, KY we will have special staged upgrades that will include free airfare for you to come get your car and drive it back.

-Kenny

tech@zeropointindustries.net for all of you tech questions

We will post dyno sheets and videos very soon.

We will post dyno sheets and videos very soon.

Hell yay...thats what we all want to see

you will be the first one to blow up your engine :rofl: na for real though..... if your running nos and considering this, you should seriously consider having it profesionally done........

how am i going to blow my engine im not going with some cheap kit im going either with a zex wet kit or a nx wet kit both will only let you spray when its at WOT and they also monitor the air fule ratio to keep it from being to rich. this is alot like adding forced induction with larger injectors becouse the nitrous is just providing o2 and the wet part in the name means it adds fule to the mix of nitrous so that it keeps the leavels of fuel to air safe if installe properly and used properly this should be just as safe as a turbo or a sc. the peaple are the ones that spray when there in 5th gear going 30 or the ones that buy cheap dry kits that dont monitor any thing and let you spray when ever you want


We have sprayed our Scion on a 120 shot for months and the only negative effect we have had is a blown intake manifold. This is why we now are building a sheetmetal one. We are trying to push the limits of these cars so that we can helo you guys with what the weak spots are. The tc block is proved to be very stout thus far and we will only tell with time when it will break

-kenny

^cool im not planing on doing a 120 shot im only looking to do a 55 maybe at most a 75 nothing that large

We have put 75 shot on three cars and they have all been fine; we only use nitrous express and we did put a pump in the cars they are all on stock plugs.

-kenny

there is a video of our car on tctunerz.com on a 120 shot racing a stage 1 srt-4 with upgraded fmic, 3" dump, boost controller running on high octane mode.

At the end of the video we let off of it coming up on some curves we walked the srt-4 pretty good.

-kenny

^ cool i will check that out and maybe ill go with a 120 shot once your new intake manifold is avalible

didnt seem that bad but it seems like you guys slowed down alot or his turbo spooled up and thats when he jumped infront. have you taken this car to the track yet? if so what did it run?

no ur tracks here don't open until next month. The scion woudl just take off when floored the other guy was honking so he should have had the reaction advantage. The srt-4 is a customer of ours it is a stock turbo so it spools quickly. The bottle was running a little low at this point it is just a good example of what TC is capable of.

The 120 shot was always done on race gas!!!!!!I would not suggest doing it; unless you have at least 100 octane and a step colder plugs

i was going to get the zex pluggs and i was planing on going using 93 octane but if the tc can take 100 with just the pluggs ill try it when i go to the track on april 2nd i cant wait to get the nitrous in and run it it will be fun

i was going to get the zex pluggs and i was planing on going using 93 octane but if the tc can take 100 with just the pluggs ill try it when i go to the track on april 2nd i cant wait to get the nitrous in and run it it will be fun

do not use zex plugs, they are junk.

This is how we are going to do the heads if you have more money than time. If you want us to send you a Stage 1 head there will be a 725 core charge. I know this is expensive but this is the cheapest that we can buy these heads. They will be complete and assembled minus cams. All you woudl have to do is install your cams this not being that hard of a task that ost shade tree mechanics and tuners can do.

We still are having computer problems here at the shop so we can not post the dyno sheets. As soon as our scanner is working again we will post them we stand behind these claims 100% as we have seen and driven a few of these cars with this package and are thrilled with the results.

Thanks

-Kenny

Oh and Joey is right ZEX plugs are junk use NGK

i was going to get the zex pluggs and i was planing on going using 93 octane but if the tc can take 100 with just the pluggs ill try it when i go to the track on april 2nd i cant wait to get the nitrous in and run it it will be fun

do not use zex plugs, they are junk.

what kind of plugs do you suggest i get then?

i was going to get the zex pluggs and i was planing on going using 93 octane but if the tc can take 100 with just the pluggs ill try it when i go to the track on april 2nd i cant wait to get the nitrous in and run it it will be fun

do not use zex plugs, they are junk.

what kind of plugs do you suggest i get then?

Oh and Joey is right ZEX plugs are junk use NGK

where do you order them from?

if youre going to be spraying nitrous, stay away from platinum plugs, stick with copper, 2 steps colder.

so what do you suggest i go with?

there is a video of our car on tctunerz.com on a 120 shot racing a stage 1 srt-4 with upgraded fmic, 3" dump, boost controller running on high octane mode.

At the end of the video we let off of it coming up on some curves we walked the srt-4 pretty good.

-kenny


Dude I seriously hope you were joking.............I saw that video and if my prizm with a 100shot can beat a stg1 srt-4 with e/i then something is wrong. Im not trying to bash at all I just can't believe a 120 shot did that poorly against the modded srt-4. I knw those cars are fast seeing how there are 15 local ones that I all knw.

I could see you spraying a 55 shot in the video and loosing, but 120.

Dyno numbers will be posted on our site next week including ordering information pertaining to the core exchange.
So, would you send us the new head, so that we can have it installed, and send you back the old head, or are you expecint us to send you our old head first, having you polish it, and then send it back?

( :lol: polish my head :P had to say it!)

Dyno numbers will be posted on our site next week including ordering information pertaining to the core exchange.
So, would you send us the new head, so that we can have it installed, and send you back the old head, or are you expecint us to send you our old head first, having you polish it, and then send it back?

( :lol: polish my head :P had to say it!)

they send you a new one, and you send them the old one

Is it more expensive if we want to keep our stock head?

^ the core charge is what you should get refunded once you send your old one in if you keep your old one you dont get it back

how much is the core charge

he said $700 i think