I was always fine with the shifter in my 2008 xB2 (after changing the knob :))! However, I recently made a change that's resulting in it feel distinctly less fine :(! I adjusted my clutch pedal height to factory spec (yeah, I know, my mistake).

The result is the clutch feel is very much improved, but the shift action now feels overlong and just as "delivery van" like as my clutch used to feel :(! I've taken a glance at various TRD quick-shift and NST bushing threads in the past, and have just now specifically reviewed them. My interest would be in reducing the throw (for a quicker shift), but not adding notchiness (which isn't currently a problem).

I saw NST intended to introduce a short-shifter, but it never happened (concern over insufficient interest). I also saw at least one person actually cut 1" off the shift lever to reduce the throw. Thinking of the TRD, I would certainly expect an increase of some 30% shift resistance given a reduction of some 30% throw, so my concern is not that -- rather, it's an increase in either notchiness or a particular reluctance to enter a gear (2nd?) as a result of making the mod (whatever it turns out to be).

With my early Eclipse, replacing the factory shift knob with a shorter aftermarket knob worked wonders. What works wonders for the xB2?

Well, looks like I'm not exactly getting a rousing response to this question. I'm thinking my best bet is to get my hands on a shift lever and shorten it so the resistance will increase, but the shift action should otherwise remain the same. If that works out, maybe I'll try those Delrin cable bushings I see for sale.

With the TRD SSK notchiness is definitely increased... I liked the short throw but now with it removed I hardly notice it being gone and now I dont miss 2nd gear nor does it pop out of first anymore and omg the lever feels like butter! A new knob and new bushings do just fine for me :) I have the Delrins.

EDIT: Oh and one thing I thought about doing was finding a way to cut off some of the shift linkage counter weight to reduce resistance of the throw. This was a mod mazda speed 3 owners did but luckily theirs just unbolted and there is actually a lighter weight cobb replacement as well. For us though we have to saw a piece off lol. Take a look under the hood for yourself and you can actually grab the weight and make the linkage move. Its a tight spot though.

PM me with what you did to adjust your clutch pedal please.

PM me with what you did to adjust your clutch pedal please.
Trevor's DIY:
http://www.scionlife.com/forums/showthread.php?t=186534

With the TRD SSK notchiness is definitely increased... I liked the short throw but now with it removed I hardly notice it being gone and now I dont miss 2nd gear nor does it pop out of first anymore and omg the lever feels like butter! A new knob and new bushings do just fine for me :) I have the Delrins.

EDIT: Oh and one thing I thought about doing was finding a way to cut off some of the shift linkage counter weight to reduce resistance of the throw. This was a mod mazda speed 3 owners did but luckily theirs just unbolted and there is actually a lighter weight cobb replacement as well. For us though we have to saw a piece off lol. Take a look under the hood for yourself and you can actually grab the weight and make the linkage move. Its a tight spot though.
Thanks for the info Chris! You mention you installed the Delrin bushings. The only ones I spotted were the cable bushings, so I'm guessing those are what you changed (not the shifter cage bushings as well). I hope the pedal adjustment goes smoothly -- just take your time :).

Yeah the cable bushings. I dont see anyone making any cage bushings currently but to me the cage feels pretty solid. Time is all I have so I will definitely be doing this tomorrow! Thanks a bunch!

With my TRD leather knob screwed down as far as it can go (white disc popped out of its groove and pressing against the square black shift lever base -- a 1/4" difference), I've found I can get a little further lower by extending the shift lever thread.

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a33/TrevorSt/xBshiftLever_1.jpg

With the white disc removed and the thread extended further more drop would be available, but the shoulder is in the way. Not sure how to get there, but hopefully there's a reasonable solution.

I stopped by my favorite machine shop to get their opinion on cutting down the shoulder and got the expected response. If the shift shaft was removable from the plastic arm, they could turn it down on a lathe, but they don't have anything that can cut around a stationary shaft. Since the plastic is molded around the shaft, looks like hand grinding/filing/sanding/etc is my only solution. Got to have a pretty accurate result though, or I won't be able to cut a good thread.

PS. If anyone knows of a tool that would help on a task like this, please mention it.

Yea i know













Get a grinder and cut that _____ off and put a after market shift knob in haha. Or you could try using a tap?

Just went by Harbor Freight to see if they have any possibly helpful tools, but didn't see anything. Thanks for the input, but I really prefer not to modify the knob since they tend to get replaced and I prefer custom work to be once only.

I thought another possibility would be to put bolts through the plastic arm and shift rod and Dremel cut the mold seam to free the shaft for turning. However, I can only cut one of the two seams, plus the pivot ball is also molded to that shaft. Think I'm stuck. Should be an interesting project, but if worst-comes-to-worst, I can certainly live with what I have right now. Still, it would be nice to drop the knob lower :tongue:.

OK, so I managed to get it done. A combination of bench grinding and filing. This thing is hardened steel which makes for very slow going.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a33/TrevorSt/xBshiftLever_3.jpg

After still more filing, I was able to cut the thread (also slow going).
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a33/TrevorSt/xBshiftLever_4.jpg

Now I've to decide how much thread to cut off the end of the shaft -- definitely the entire original thread, but maybe the gap portion as well.

Great effort on your part Trevor, I hope it gives you everything you are hoping for.

I'll be interested to hear how the shifting is affected by your shortened lever, since you have now reduced the amount of mechanical leverage you have over the shifter. This is why SSK's are designed to reduce the distance of the throw, without reducing the length of the lever itself.

OK, all done! I kept only the new thread and so here's the before and after, an aprox 7/8" reduction from the original aprox 7" from ball center to top :)! Only took approaching four hours total :P!

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a33/TrevorSt/xBshiftLever_1.jpg
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a33/TrevorSt/xBshiftLever_5.jpg

Great effort on your part Trevor, I hope it gives you everything you are hoping for.

I'll be interested to hear how the shifting is affected by your shortened lever, since you have now reduced the amount of mechanical leverage you have over the shifter. This is why SSK's are designed to reduce the distance of the throw, without reducing the length of the lever itself.
Well, I was already driving for several days with a 7/16" lower knob, and the change in effort was a non-event, so I really doubt the further drop will be an issue. In fact, I'm quite certain it won't [EDIT -- but thanks to an old elbow injury -- it was. However, I eventually identified a solution].

I find the mechanical action of the OE shift to work perfectly for me, and so my purpose is to preserve what already works fine, yet still benefit from a reduced throw. I am considering installing a couple Delrin cable bushings -- though out of curiosity, not a sense of need. If they result in improvement, that's great :)!

PS. I've deliberately chosen not to get involved with an SSK since I find the TRD track record very dubious, it often being removed due to notchiness and gear access issues.

So you have no SSK or after-market bushings? Those are normally the first 2 things people do to shorten the throw and smooth it out. Glad I don't have any of that to deal with since I'm a lazy AT driver. lol

So you have no SSK or after-market bushings? Those are normally the first 2 things people do to shorten the throw and smooth it out. Glad I don't have any of that to deal with since I'm a lazy AT driver. lol
Yes, it appears people wanting to reduce the throw generally buy the only item on the market that's specifically intended to do that, the TRD Quick Shifter. And when they do, they then usually install aftermarket bushings to try to smooth out the resulting shift behavior. Notice the order of the changes? It's not generally one or the other, it's the SSK leading to the bushings as a hoped for solution. Then, if the owner removes the SSK, the bushings tend to stay.

From my reading, the typical drawbacks to the TRD Quick Shifter would be unacceptable for me, reduced throw is desirable, but smooth shift behavior is paramount. Also from what I've read, tC people have very good results with lowered shift knobs (as I did with my Eclipse with a shorter shift knob). That made my choice very simple -- shorten the shift rod (if practical) or settle for my already achieved 7/16" knob-height reduction (which works just fine, no negatives).

Regarding the bushings, supposedly they reduce "slop". My OE shift mechanism doesn't feel sloppy to me and goes into gear very smoothly. So for me, bushing replacement would be only an experiment. Any noticable negative attributes and the OE bushings would go right back in.

Regarding shift effort with lowered knob Vs SSK. The primary effort associated with changing gears is the force required by the transmission, the linkage itself requiring relatively little. Either lowering the knob or installing an SSK reduces the leverage and hence increases the effort required to make a shift.

OK, all done! I kept only the new thread and so here's the before and after, an aprox 7/8" reduction from the original aprox 7" from ball center to top :)! Only took approaching four hours total :P!
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a33/TrevorSt/xBshiftLever_5.jpg


I test fit my TRD leather knob and there is good thread engagement, but I'm glad I didn't cut off more thread than I did.

Well, I was already driving for several days with a 7/16" lower knob, and the change in effort was a non-event, so I really doubt the further loss of 9/16" will result in an issue. In fact, I'm quite certain it won't.
Just got back from my first drive with a full 1" shift knob drop and I'd say the increase in shift resistance is easily noticeable and is more than I expected (has a spring-like feel). Don't know if the spring feel is associated with actual springs located at the transmission end of the cables, or the transmission itself, but it's definitely not from the shifter end [EDIT -- actually, the shift rod left-right centering spring contributes a lot]. I'm not considering the resistance a problem, but I am curious as to the source of that feel.

A significant improvement in shift throw is easily noticeable, and I'd say it feels about right to me. I'd describe the shift feel as very firm and solid, but I don't think I'd want it any firmer (don't know what feel difference would result from cable bushing replacement). I also like the lower knob position which seems more convenient/natural to my hand coming from the steering wheel -- it no longer feels so much as though I'm reaching for the knob.

So, over the next few days of driving, I'll let my impressions settle and probably also order those Delrin cable bushings.

A few years ago I injured my right elbow and today I noticed the increase in shifter resistance was bothering it, so I visited Sears Hardware, picked up a couple 1/8" thick nylon washers (9/16" ID, 1" OD) and a rubber washer (3/8" ID, 1-1/2" OD), took off the knob, dropped the nylon washers over the shift rod, pushed on the rubber washer, lifted the top of the boot over the perimeter of the rubber washer, and re-installed the knob (still good and tight).

Following the drive home, I'm thinking it's now perfect for me -- didn't feel my elbow at all. Lost a little in terms of throw and height, but it's still down 3/4" and the improvement in feel remains dramatic. I'm really pleased with it :)!

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a33/TrevorSt/xBshiftLever_6.jpg

Ordered a set of Delrin cable bushings earlier today and I expect to be trying them soon.

Looks good, mind if I ship mine to you next

Shoot, my bushings were sorted at San Bernardino CA today (ordered noon EDT Monday). I'll probably not see them before Monday :( earliest! But at least my clutch pedal's adjusted and rear brake flasher's installed -- feels good overall :)!

In fact, my current shifter height is feeling a little tame, so I'm wondering if I should try lowering it just a smidgen more? This stuff's kind of fun :)!

Received and installed the Delrin cable bushings today. Here's a DIY and my initial impressions.

http://scionlife.com/forums/showthread.php?t=188891

A few years ago I injured my right elbow and today I noticed the increase in shifter resistance was bothering it, so I visited Sears Hardware, picked up a couple 1/8" thick nylon washers (9/16" ID, 1" OD) and a rubber washer (3/8" ID, 1-1/2" OD), took off the knob, dropped the nylon washers over the shift rod, pushed on the rubber washer, lifted the top of the boot over the perimeter of the rubber washer, and re-installed the knob (still good and tight).
Came to the conclusion today most of the resistance that was bothering my old elbow injury was associated with left-right shift lever movement, not fore-aft. So I investigated and discovered the left-right centering spring at the shift lever assembly is not only stronger than I realized, but it isn't actually needed, the transmission fairly robustly centers the shift lever all by itself. So, I removed the spring and found I could remove one of those two 1/8" spacers without bothering my elbow. Cool, that drops my shift knob further 8)!

The Lithium greased Delrin bushing on the forward shift cable (fore-aft shift knob motion) is feeling pretty reasonable, so I'm hopeful this combination of mods is going to work out well.

It's been five days now I've had my manual transmission gear shift mods in place and the feel is hugely superior to what I previously enjoyed since vehicle purchase early 2008. Reduced clutch pedal height unquestionably contributes to this.

Thinking of the difference between the TRD Quick Shifter and a shortened shift lever.

The TRD Quick Shifter reduces the "linear" shift throw (fore-aft), but doesn't reduce the "angular" throw (left-right). Shortening the shift lever reduces both, though not as much linear reduction as the TRD. Although the angular throw reduction is at the cost of increased resistance (as it is for the linear for both shortened shift lever and TRD Quick Shifter), removal of the shift lever angular centering spring tames that (the transmission itself needs no assistance centering the shift lever).

In addition to reducing both angular and linear shift throw, reducing the shift lever height also lowers the shift knob. From both ergonomic and appearance considerations, I find this a worthwhile step (the knob feels much more comfortable to hand than previously and the appearance is easily more sporting).

Regarding the notchiness often attributed to the TRD Quick Shifter, I really don't know what causes that (too short a shift throw at the transmission for the OE design parameters?). However, I'm certain I'm not experiencing anything even vaguely like that with the shortened shift lever. It's doing an excellent job of preserving the OE behavior.

Also, if you particularly want greater mechanical gear entry feel, you can add a nonyielding bushing to the linear front cable at the transmission (IMO changing the rear cable bushing only contributes stiffness, not feel). I'm running a Lithium greased Delrin bushing on the front shift cable and it works very well and doesn't introduce any notchiness. The OE bushing is just fine on the rear cable.

As far as shift speed is concerned, I doubt there's much practical difference. The TRD has the linear throw advantage, whereas the shortened shift lever has the angular throw advantage (and perhaps ergonomics affect this as well); however, the primary slow down is provided by the synchronizers -- they function at the same speed regardless of what you do with the linkage.

I recognize only some will be interested in this mod, and of those, many may not have the tools, patience, time, or skills to do it themselves. So, if this is something you'd like to do, please contact me and we can probably work something out.

The greased front Delrin bushing (fore-aft shift knob movement) is feeling pretty comfortable and so I yanked the remaining 1/8" spacer below the knob and it's feeling fine so far.

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a33/TrevorSt/xBshiftLever_7.jpg

Since my shift knob is kind of long (not a complaint, I like it), I'm thinking people with shorter knobs would be able to position them lower if desired. And the lower the knob, the shorter the throw. Speaking for myself, the throw is feeling comfortably short right now, so I don't think I'm going to lose any sleep over it :)!

As mentioned before, if anyone's interested in checking this out (as in for serious, not just for fun), please contact me and let's talk.

The thing to be aware of is that this a different approach for reducing shift throw. Unlike the transmission mounted STS options, it also reduces angular throw (feels reasonably near balanced to me between linear and angular stiffness) and also reduces shift knob height (resulting in the knob feeling much more convenient to hand). If you combine this with removing any excess height in your clutch pedal (which makes a huge difference IMO), it feels very much like a sports car in operation -- a feeling of balance and quickness.

However, if what you specifically care about is the shortest possible linear throw (1st to 2nd and 3rd to 4th) -- ignoring angular throw (2nd to 3rd and 4th to 5th) and also ignoring convenience/comfort to hand (ergonomics), then either TRD (about 30% linear shift throw reduction) or Axxtion (about 50% linear throw reduction) may be the best fit for you. Just be aware that although those linear throws are easily shorter, they are also easily stiffer (and not just "slightly"), naturally, that much more so for the Axxtion. Also, no shift linkage mod results in a faster transmission synchronizer, it only varies how quickly you get to the synchronizer.

Still, if you have any interest in checking this out, let's talk about it.

I decided that with the shorter shift lever, it was time to change the boot appearance to something that better suits it. Here's my new boot :).

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a33/TrevorSt/xBboot_13.jpg

I got one! LOVE IT!! here's the link for my DIY on it.

http://www.scionlife.com/forums/showthread.php?t=195888&highlight=xb2+short+shifter

CHECK IT OUT!!!!


http://i571.photobucket.com/albums/ss157/Meatcutter525/mods/short%20shifter/100_8294-1.jpg