Ihave a question, I heard that there's a MAJOR DOWNSIDE on the cold air induction systems. Since it's a COLD AIR intake and not a regular intake, it'll be longer so it can be extended to the near bottom of the car and get the colder air thus giving it more HP. BUT! The major downside is that if you come across a puddle or something like that, there's a good chance that the water will get sucked into the engine from the intake since it's so close to the floor and ultimately destroying the engine. So i was told that the only way to prevent this is to put it in Neutral and turn off ur engine, and turn it back on when u have passed the puddle. Can anyone tell me how true this is?

haha. im gonna say noooooooo on this one. i think you might do more damage doing that, rather than just driving over it. cases i've seen, is where they've parked in a puddle where its submerged. driving over a puddle will not shut your engine down. it would also have to be water covering the whole filter, otherwise it would just get a little air. if your really worried, install a bypass valve i suppose. i dont think you need to worry though

dude you should be fine what do you think the splash gaurd is
for and you would have to go in a pretty deep puddel.

There are 2 downsides to CAI

1) You sacrifice a little low end torque.
2) Hydrolocking (water entrering engine) - Some intakes come with a water bypass valve to direct water out, but even it it doesn't, it'll take more than simply running through a puddle to cause hydrolock.

A mere puddle will not cause water to go into the intake basically because when your front tire hits the puddle, your CAI is already past it. You'd have to hit a mighty deep puddle to force water up there, in which case I'd worry about hydroplaning. Putting the car in Neutral would do nothing, the engine is still running therefore still sucking air. So to be safe, get one with a bypass valve and you'll be fine.

then i have another question. u guys know all those hoods with scopes or "holes" or w/e. Didnt they think of what will happen if it's raining and the water goes into the engine area as well as the intake?? I'm just wondering. Pls do correct me if I'm wrong.

Scoops are great for cars with carbs or top mounted intercoolers. Vented hoods help hot air escape from the engine bay. In japan and surrounding areas. Hood spacers are really hot right now. If you have a short ram intake such as the secret weapon. I'd recommend either the vented hood, or save yourself 700 bucks and just buy hood spacers :P But vented hoods and hood scoops while driving shouldn't let much water into the engine bay or around your intake. Parked in the rain. Your engine is most likely not running anyway. If you are worried about water getting near your intake. Then once again I'd recommend hood spacers instead of a vented hood.

pls dont laugh when I ask, what is a hood spacers again? (?_?)

Hood spacers are just lil rubber spacers for your hood. Its not very cosmetic. It lifts the hood a little bit where the hinges are and lets hot air escape through the space.

A limited amount of water going into the engine is ok. Rally cars used to (may not be allowed now) put a fuel injector just before the intercooler spraying WATER into the air about to go into the engine. The reason for this is that water has such a high heat capacity that it would further cool the intake air temp enough that more air could be compressed into the cylinders. Meaning more available oxygen to burn, so more fuel could be used, so more peak horsepower.
So I wouldn't sweat a little puddle splashing or rainwater on the infuent air to your engine.
It becomes a problem when the volume of water in the cylinders steals enough 'air space' that the total air compression ration exceeds 11:1 for regular gasoline, detonation begins to occur. As the amount of water increases, air pressure increases exponentially on the cylinder walls and piston head. At the same time the rapid and uneven tempature drop of parts in contact with water can cause them to warp and distort.

blah, i nevered put on a cai because of im afraid of hydrolocking my motor. a bypass valve is added security if you have a cai, but i am rather skeptic about it function 100% of the time. most people that i have spoken to, they have said the bypass valve only functions when the entire filter is submerged in water. hmmm, i no idea if there is some or any truth to their statements. i prefer a short ram anyways.

my buddies friend, mike, had a aem cai(with bypass valve) on his 95 accord. he accidently drove right into a deep puddle during one of those rainy florida days. hydrolocked his motor and stalled right in the puddle. made a nice big crack in the engine block as well. since then, he swapped a h22a in there. this was the incident that discouraged me from ever buying a cai.

plus... the little water (if it did) get into the intake would probably get hot and steam away by the time it would ever enter yer engine.

Water turns to steam at 212F, so you're telling me the air stream is hot enough to steam water. Plus even if it did turn to steam, where's it gonna go? It'll follow the air stream right into the intake manifold.

A limited amount of water going into the engine is ok. Rally cars used to (may not be allowed now) put a fuel injector just before the intercooler spraying WATER into the air about to go into the engine. The reason for this is that water has such a high heat capacity that it would further cool the intake air temp enough that more air could be compressed into the cylinders. Meaning more available oxygen to burn, so more fuel could be used, so more peak horsepower.
So I wouldn't sweat a little puddle splashing or rainwater on the infuent air to your engine.
It becomes a problem when the volume of water in the cylinders steals enough 'air space' that the total air compression ration exceeds 11:1 for regular gasoline, detonation begins to occur. As the amount of water increases, air pressure increases exponentially on the cylinder walls and piston head. At the same time the rapid and uneven tempature drop of parts in contact with water can cause them to warp and distort.


the srt-4's also do this if you get there turbo toys upgrade for it

http://www.mopar.com/street/products_srt4_stage2.htm
http://www.mopar.com/street/products_srt4_stage3.htm

Water turns to steam at 212F, so you're telling me the air stream is hot enough to steam water. Plus even if it did turn to steam, where's it gonna go? It'll follow the air stream right into the intake manifold.

to heaven :lalala:

You know, I'm glad someone started this topic. I have been debating a warm versus cold air intake since I bought my car in August. Naturally, I want to let the engine breathe as effeciently as possible. My primary concern is that the air temperature where I live is too cold, and if I use a cold air intake, my engine will run at lower than normal operating temperature. That would mean, among other things, decreased interior heater performance. You all seem to be very knowledgeable; what do you recommend for my application?

My gut is telling me you should be better off with a short ram. The air in the engine compartment would be warmer compared to pulling the air from the bottom of the bumper. Short ram would increase your air volume but can anyone say if there would be that big of a difference in temp between a CAI and a Short ram?

The Porsche 924 and 944 have an OPEN duct right into
the wheel well and has been that way since the late 70's.
Mine takes up water all the time, but the length of the piping
makes it near impossible for that mild air flow to suck in
any water.

I can't imagine a naturally asperated 1.5L having enough
suck to pull any noticable water through the filter. You'd
probably get a blocked up filter long before you'd get
hydrolock.

The major downside to a CAI, or any after market intake for that matter is that you can't use it with a TURBO! :rofl:

Plus, it's so damn hot here in Vegas, I dont' know how much of a difference it would make. The asphault gets so hot here.

If you guys are that worried about your intakes --- you better already have new pipes because your gains will be cut in 1/2. Also - I think you are right - keep your stock filter and forget about the intake. In another month people will be talking more about the supercharger.

New pipes what do you mean enlighten me. I dont know what you mean by this

If your that woried about your CAI, just get a SRI, shorter, lose a little horsepower, but not much difference

gti 1.8T comes stock with a cold air intake holla...chill winston

Since weere on the topic of water and engines. Is it safe to hose down the engine bay when the engine is off to get all the dirt and grime out of there?

Hydro-locking occurs when you get enough water sucked in AT ONE TIME that it fills the space between the piston and the top of the cylinder. Water doesn't compress like air. When the piston comes up and hits that solid object, the piston stops, but the crank is still going and it will usually break the piston rod, not to mention valves and other stuff. Until you get to that solid mass amount, the engine will pass it thru. You couldn't squeeze a spray bottle fast enough by hand to drown out an engine, it'll suck it right thru. The heat comes during compression to combustion, that's when the water gets vaporized.

The car into the puddle scenario could happen with a stock airbox, if you get into deep enough water to cover the intake tube. The Wranglers I've seen that hydrolocked had stock air filters. Of course, they were trying to cross streams at the time of their problems...

If I'm in water deep enough to get sucked into my CAI, it'll probably be coming in the floorboards too. I ran mine thru a pretty wet NorCal winter with no problems, no worries.

A couple of other things - The CAI is better for shows, the SRI is more stealthy

I'd wager that the performance differences are more theoretical than anything...

new pipes? down pipe for the exhaust???

no worries... you would have to drive through a lake before you suck enough water.

i had a CAI on my protege5 for 3 years and it had no problems, evern through WINTER; slush snow and other assorted crap. yeah, filter was dirty as hell though, but inside of the filter is clean and new. i just cleaned the filter more often. pain in the ___, but i feel more comfortable knowing it's operating properly.

i say go CAI or stock intake with a better drop in filter. an open short ram filter inside the engine bay is not really that efficient anyways cuz you're sucking in hot engine air. unless you get an open filter with a box to act as a heat shield.

stock intake with a good K&N or TRD air panel filter is fine... :)

Difference in intake temps between a short ram and a full CAI, with the vehicle in motion is negligible. AT rest, the difference can rocket to as much as 8 degrees! :P There is really no reason for a CAI. Air temp is a non-issue in terms of power production. As long as the motor gets the CFM it needs, it will adjust accordingly.

And to those that beleive you'd have to drive through a lake to experience hydrolock, think again. Folks from the Honda side of things will fill your heads with countless tales of hydrolock horror, some from driving through as little as 6" of water. You don't have to submerge the whole filter-- ever see the neato test the guy did with the AEM CAI + bypass on the NSX? even with the bypass fully open, and a ridiculous 5' long intake pipe, the water still climbed the bottom 8-10" of the intake. Now take your real world intake, half as long, less bends... and a TB pointing up.

A 5hp ShopVac draws about the same CFM as a 1.6L motor at WOT. Do your own test. Put even 1" of the side of the filter in a bucket... and watch how fast the bucket empties.

Add to this the requisite loss of low-end torque, and the gains of a CAI really do not outweigh the caveats. K&N or TRD drop-in panel will serve you just fine. Risk aside, the $ per HP ratio for an average tC CAI just isn't good. Money better spent elsewhere.