http://www.dangpow.com/~cleethree/spyderchat/turbo%20exhaust/114-1463_IMG.jpg

Two spark plug anifoulers installed on the second O2 sensor. NOT ON THE HEADER
One drilled out with a 1/2" bit to fit the O2 sensor and the other left alone.

I tried it with just one antifouler and it still gave a CEL. I added the second and my CEL went away after a few days. It hasn't come back for over 1500 miles!

^^ where can you get those from and how much?

now if only we could get someone to make them that way

Your local auto store will have them. I got mine at Pep Boys.

It's so easy! You don't need anyone to make it for you.

Is this a fix for the DC Sports header?

some call dc and tell them to ship this thing like this

Nice work. I remember people with gutted cats on another forum doing the same thing. Sweet idea. If I remember right they bought 2 18mm antifoulers and drilled a 1/2" inch hole into one. Then attached them both like you did, which creates a space that fools the sensor into thinking there is a cat there because its reading less 02 at cooler temperatures.

If you used 18mm antifoulers also let us know thanks.....

Nice work. I remember people with gutted cats on another forum doing the same thing. Sweet idea. If I remember right they bought 2 18mm antifoulers and drilled a 1/2" inch hole into one. Then attached them both like you did, which creates a space that fools the sensor into thinking there is a cat there because its reading less 02 at cooler temperatures.

That is exactly what I did with 18mm antifoulers.

I forgot to say that this is the SECOND o2 sensor we are talking about.

Wow!! I am impressed, that means that the O2 sensor is gettin hot enough to respond back to the computer!! That great, maybe I need to start making those here at the scion central. :D

Wow the fix looks great and cheap i wonder if any long terms problems will be an issue.

I highly doubt any long term affects could arise from just installing antifoulers. I'm gonna buy them and drill the holes and put them on my dresser to remind me to buy that damn header lol

Now i've got a quick question for you guys that are having this CEL. Is it throwing a Bank #2 Rich type code?

Cuz right now my xB is catless due to my greddy turbo kit and i'm throwing that code. And it would make sense to do this same mod on mines.

any help is appreciated.

duey

yeah it should work on your xb also basicly both sensors are showing the same reading the point is to make the 2nd sensor have a lower reading so it thinks a cat is there i would go a head and do it should work fine

whats your xb running with the turbo? can it take a civic si yet or is it still a little lacking on power?

yeah it should work on your xb also basicly both sensors are showing the same reading the point is to make the 2nd sensor have a lower reading so it thinks a cat is there i would go a head and do it should work fine

whats your xb running with the turbo? can it take a civic si yet or is it still a little lacking on power?

still tuning the emanage, but i'd like to fix the CEL before i do anything major at this point. Only dyno'd at 115fwhp at 4psi of boost and it pinging a lil bit so i can't really push it hard yet. But according to GReddy i can/should lay down 120-140whp with proper tuning which i hope to accomplish eventually.

sorry to be a total newb. but what am i looking at? where is the 2 drilled holes and what is being drilled into? how come i did a search for anifoulers and couldnt get any info, what do they do? can i do this at home?

Will this mod work when you remove both cats or just one?

the second cat doesnt have any sensors so pull it off if you dont want it just remember there are emissions test in indiana

HAHAHA!!! What are you smoking. We don't have emissions tests here. I have never heard of anybody in Indiana ever getting tested. But thanks for the tip I may remove the second cat when my exhaust shows up.

Here is a how-to with pictures.

http://forums.evolutionm.net/printthread.php?t=99137

Has anybody done this fix on the DC Sports header for the tC? If it works, DC header here I come,, hehe

I'll let you guys know, just ordered the header today from McGeorge, I'll post pics n stuff of the install, perhaps a tutorial...?

Yes it works with the DC header. Well at least it has been working for over 600 miles now.

I'll let everyone know if the light ever comes back on.

Now i've got a quick question for you guys that are having this CEL. Is it throwing a Bank #2 Rich type code?

Cuz right now my xB is catless due to my greddy turbo kit and i'm throwing that code. And it would make sense to do this same mod on mines.

any help is appreciated.

duey

Duey wait a minute partner here me out in fact everyone should read this post. I have a turbo tC and I have my check engine light on my car runs rich, However when the shop first did my kit they did something similar to this where they turned off the sensor but what the downside to this was is that you car is N/A stock and after a turbo its Fored Induction so when they tricked the sensor into thinking that it was running stock They also fooled the computer into only giving me enough gas to power an N/A motor meaning that when I went over 70MPH or so I was getting a gas cut off because my motor wastn getting enough gas so it starting choking or stalling so I could only drive about 65 to be safe. Trust me you are better off running rich at least you know your car can run full power. My best suggestion would be to wait for a shop or company to come up with a new program for your stock ECU or buy a piggy back system.

my A/F is pig rich under boost and it's killing my power. That AND my CEL is on so the ECU is on "limp mode". I do have a piggy-back (e-manage) so i can adjust it as i need, i've even switched to a MAP system as apposed to the stock MAF setup.

I'm actually gonna do this mod tomorrow and throw it on the dyno right away to re-tune the e-manage and hopefully all goes well. Wish me luck lol

-duey

Where are the antifoulers installed at? In the header itself or in the pipe heading back towards the rear?

On the second O2 sensor.
It's on the S-pipe onder the engine.

I messed up and drilled them both and it didn't work. Thats what I get for not reading carefully, I will have to try again.

I just did it wednesday and drove down to savannah and back, over 500 miles and no problems yet! Good news is that along with more power, I also have better gas mileage! I usually get 300 or less per tank, and cruising at 80mph the whole way I got 330!

Great idea. I guess the anitfouler male threads fit the hole for the 02 ?

^^Like a charm!!

Very cool. Keep us updated on how it works down the road. But if it is working now, then it should stay that way as the 02 is pulled out of the flow further. By the way, what exhaust are you running and how does it perform and sound?

Well I did this and it still gave me a CEL. Any ideas on how to get rid of the CEL?

Very cool. Keep us updated on how it works down the road. But if it is working now, then it should stay that way as the 02 is pulled out of the flow further. By the way, what exhaust are you running and how does it perform and sound?

I have the stock exhaust with the DC header, and I love the setup!
The sound is quiet, but kinda raspy, if that makes sense to you?
Performance wise, a little improvement over stock up to 3000 rpm, after that, HUGE improvement!!
I would suggest this mod to anyone, probably the most bang for the buck for $300

TurboTC,

Thanks for the suggestion. I did the mod and it worked great! I've been riding around for a few days without a CEL.

So this fix is not in the DC header/ 1st o2 sensor, but in the down pipe/2nd o2 sensor??

So this fix is not in the DC header/ 1st o2 sensor, but in the down pipe/2nd o2 sensor??

Correct :clap:

Well I found out that my Air/Fuel Ratio sensor (first O2 Sensor) was bad today and that is what caused my CEL. It didn't throw a CEL for the second sensor so I guess the mod worked.

If anyone has trouble finding the anti-foulers (aka non-foulers), you can get them online at http://www.rockauto.com/ and do a search for part # 42002 or 42009. I went to 2 different R & S Strauss stores and none of them carried this size and only found 1 place online that had them.

If anyone has trouble finding the anti-foulers (aka non-foulers), you can get them online at http://www.rockauto.com/ and do a search for part # 42002 or 42009. I went to 2 different R & S Strauss stores and none of them carried this size and only found 1 place online that had them.

Which one do we order? One's like $3 and one's $5? One of each? Or are they both the same thing?

so will this work on the megan racin header as well? will it also go on the s-pipe/downpipe?

I ordered (2) 42009 and (1) 42002 and it turns out that each pack comes with 2 anti-fowlers in them, so now I have 2 extra pairs of 42009. If anyone wants, I'll sell it to anyone for $8 shipped via Priority Mail..

which one do u use, the 42009 or 42002? is there a diff?

so will this work on the megan racin header as well? will it also go on the s-pipe/downpipe?

It goes on the s pipe and it will work for every header that doesn't have a cat

thankx for the info i really appreciate it

so will this work on the megan racin header as well? will it also go on the s-pipe/downpipe?

It goes on the s pipe and it will work for every header that doesn't have a cat

the megan header HAS a cat though...either way i guess it looks like it works

i have the megan header and i get a cel. i'll be doing this mod tonight, so i'll post in the megan header thread to let everyone know if it seems to work.

which one do u use, the 42009 or 42002? is there a diff?

i went to discount auto and saw the difference between these two. one of them (I'm not sure which number) is a little longer then the other. i used the shorter ones and it worked fine.

has anyone tried the resistor mod for the CEL?

Resistor mod will not work! Why would you even try when this mod is so easy?

Resistor mod will not work! Why would you even try when this mod is so easy?

just askin

Don't mess with your wires if you don't have to.

I tryed this mod with the megan header and I still have the CEL. :(

I tryed this mod with the megan header and I still have the CEL. :(

not good...not good at all :nails:

Check your O2 connections and make sure everything it tight.

Get the code. This mod is only good for the "non efficient cat" code.

I tryed this mod with the megan header and I still have the CEL. :(

not good...not good at all :nails:

Now now davo, let's not go and create more panic about this than there needs to be. This is the first time it hasn't worked for someone, and it's probably just something really simple that he missed. I would check all the bolts again, in particular the spring bolts. Make sure they are tight and compressed, if not, then you did something wrong. Re-tighten all the O2 sensors as well, also making sure that no wires are twisted too tightly.

Also, have you reset the ECU? Disconnect the negative terminal on the battery and leave it for 10 minutes. Might as well do this while you re-check all the necessary points of concern. When you're done, fire the car back up and let it idle for 15 minutes to give the computer enough time to check and adjust, and you should be good to go.l

I tryed this mod with the megan header and I still have the CEL. :(

not good...not good at all :nails:

Odds are ......he did the wrong O2 sensor. It's the sensor on the S pipe....NOT the header 02. The last guy did the wrong 02 sensor and one before that damaged his first 02 sensor when he removed it. This mod works

Check your O2 connections and make sure everything it tight.

Get the code. This mod is only good for the "non efficient cat" code.

why are you selling your header dood?

i put the anti-fouler's on the s-pipe, not the actual header. i reset the ECU and it hasn't come back yet (i drove about 20-30 miles)

OK, I finally did the CEL fix and it didn't work for me either. This is what I found:

1. The difficulty I had getting the s-pipe O2 sensor off was because the threads on the s-pipe were damaged. This caused the O2 sensor's threads to become stripped. I do not believe that simply attempting to unbolt the O2 sensor could have caused this. It appears that maybe some grit was on the threads of the s-pipe at the factory when the O2 sensor was installed. At least, that's the only theory I can come up with.

2. I cleaned up the s-pipe threads and carefully tightened the O2 sensor into the antifoulers and them onto the s-pipe. I put anti-seize on all the threads, too. I was able to get the O2 sensor + antifoulers tight, but i had to be gentle with it.

3. I did reset the ECU by disconnecting the battery for more than 10 minutes. I also let the car idle for 20+ minutes before driving after everything was back together again.

After 41 miles, the CEL was back.

So, here's a few questions...

1. I recall the s-pipe having some kind of screen or grating on at least one end. Am I imagining this? When I disconnected the s-pipe so I could work on removing the O2 sensor, I found that this screen is no longer there.

2. So, I'm on my back with a flashlight peering up into the Megan header. I can see all the way up to where the 4 pipes join to 1. I'm thinking "precat? *what* precat?" Shouldn't I have seen something within the air path which would be a catalyst for emissions? A regular catalytic converter has a mesh-like substance (metal, ceramic, whatever) that the air passes through. I saw nothing like this on my header. This has me puzzled.

3. I'd like to get the engine code and find out exactly what the CEL is trying to say. My tC is at the dealer today getting my first free oil change so I asked about getting the code. I was told it would be an hour's diagnostic labor @ $79! WTF is that all about? It's not going to take an HOUR to get a code from the computer. My only experience with engine computers is with my Miata. There is a driveway "trick" which allows me to connect two pins of the diagnostic connector, causing the check engine light to flash and return the error codes. Plus, Mazda techs can connect to the diagnostic connector and get the codes in a matter of minutes. Isn't the tC the same way, at least for the Scion techs???

I suppose it is possible one of the O2 sensors was damaged, but I didn't drop them or do anything other than set them on the table. I am sure all of the bolts (including the spring loaded ones) are tight and I did make sure to use the little "donut" which sits between the header and s-pipe.

3. I'd like to get the engine code and find out exactly what the CEL is trying to say. My tC is at the dealer today getting my first free oil change so I asked about getting the code. I was told it would be an hour's diagnostic labor @ $79! WTF is that all about? It's not going to take an HOUR to get a code from the computer. My only experience with engine computers is with my Miata. There is a driveway "trick" which allows me to connect two pins of the diagnostic connector, causing the check engine light to flash and return the error codes. Plus, Mazda techs can connect to the diagnostic connector and get the codes in a matter of minutes. Isn't the tC the same way, at least for the Scion techs???

you might want to take the car to a local autoparts store.. discount auto & autozone both give free diagnotic tests to see what code the car is throwing.

btw, in case anyone is wondering, I've gone about 50 miles since I reset the battery and the CEL hasn't come back yet.

that is very strange that the precat was competely see through. the AW header is looking better and better.....

Sorry that everyone here is realizing now what we had to go through to develop our header without the CEL.

Our headers will not have CEL and if you have any issues at all with the headers I am here to give you customer service. If I am not enough I can get you directly to our R+D team either in California or Florida.

I am here and I am very committed to everyone here, and that is something that no other company will do. I am your dedicated customer service representative here.

Best regards,

Victor D.

I have the megan header, did the anti-fouler trick correctly, reset the battery, and the CEL just came back again (after about 60 miles).

are you guys using the longer antifouler or the shorter one?

i've actually tryed both, neither one of them worked.

i've actually tryed both, neither one of them worked.




than theres something wrong when you install the header... you added the new manifold gasket right? did you switch the OEM gasket ring on the bottom of the OEM header to megan?? is the anti-fouler attach to the O2 on the s-pipe or header??? did you make sure all bolts are tight especially the 2 bottom ones with springs attach? i suggest you should take the header off and examine everything (the header from inside) then reinstall everything... after that let you car idle for 10min. or so and not press on the gas!



there is a difference between the 42002 and 42009; one of them is just the 2 pieces that are longer and the other comes with a washer (some o-ring) but the pieces are short... i made a post before saying i have the longer one (i forgot the serial #)

i installed my DC's at 17400miles (yea i drove the crap out of it) and everything was successful....

ive been driving for over 140 miles already and no CEL....




if you still get the CEL, take it to the shop and have it computer checked and if it says HEADERs than i suggest you take those megan's back and trade it for DC or alpha's......

Resistor mod will not work! Why would you even try when this mod is so easy?

just askin




ARE YOU GUYS TALKIN ABOUT THIS THING???

http://home.comcast.net/~diluvium/resistor.jpg

you can see in the pic the box is the chip and 2 wires coming out of it towards the 2 blue splicers...

I got this resistor mod from ebay... and to tell you the truth it does work... throttle response is very noticable. and i bought it from them because the 99% positive feedback...


this chip makes your car spit more fuel that you will probably never stall again... the weird thing is that i can drive 25 mph on 4 gear without the ackward sound (it spits that much fuel)...

i am aware of the damages i can cause to my engine cause of this chip, so im keepin my eye on the fuel systems and engine.

[quote="RacerZack"]OK, I finally did the CEL fix and it didn't work for me either. This is what I found:

2. I cleaned up the s-pipe threads and carefully tightened the O2 sensor into the antifoulers and them onto the s-pipe. I put anti-seize on all the threads, too. I was able to get the O2 sensor + antifoulers tight, but i had to be gentle with it.

After 41 miles, the CEL was back.


i thought you were supposed to put the antifoulers on the second 02? correct me if im wrong...i havent done this yet either

on the s-pipe only

than theres something wrong when you install the header... you added the new manifold gasket right? did you switch the OEM gasket ring on the bottom of the OEM header to megan?? is the anti-fouler attach to the O2 on the s-pipe or header??? did you make sure all bolts are tight especially the 2 bottom ones with springs attach? i suggest you should take the header off and examine everything (the header from inside) then reinstall everything... after that let you car idle for 10min. or so and not press on the gas!

there is nothing wrong with the install.. I did add the new manifold gasket. I did switch the OEM gasket ring to the megan header. the anti-foulers are installed properly on the s-pipe. all the bolts are all the way tight..

i really think it's happening just because of the crappy megan header design. the precat broke off and got stuck in my exhaust.. after taking that out and reinstalling the header I reset the ECU, let it idle 15 minutes without touching the gas, and the CEL came back in 60 miles.

the code i'm getting is P0420. i don't know what else I can do other then wait for megan to release the new header design. i'm not the only one having this problem, I can name 5 people (just on this board) with the anti-fouler mod installed correctly that still have a CEL.

than theres something wrong when you install the header... you added the new manifold gasket right? did you switch the OEM gasket ring on the bottom of the OEM header to megan?? is the anti-fouler attach to the O2 on the s-pipe or header??? did you make sure all bolts are tight especially the 2 bottom ones with springs attach? i suggest you should take the header off and examine everything (the header from inside) then reinstall everything... after that let you car idle for 10min. or so and not press on the gas!

there is nothing wrong with the install.. I did add the new manifold gasket. I did switch the OEM gasket ring to the megan header. the anti-foulers are installed properly on the s-pipe. all the bolts are all the way tight..

i really think it's happening just because of the crappy megan header design. the precat broke off and got stuck in my exhaust.. after taking that out and reinstalling the header I reset the ECU, let it idle 15 minutes without touching the gas, and the CEL came back in 60 miles.

the code i'm getting is P0420. i don't know what else I can do other then wait for megan to release the new header design. i'm not the only one having this problem, I can name 5 people (just on this board) with the anti-fouler mod installed correctly that still have a CEL.

From what I understand this works on the DC and alphawerks and not the megan because chunks of the precat are breaking off and lodged in the exhaust tract. If you bought a Megan, I guess you got what you paid for.

I can't seem to find any 18mm antifouler's in any local autoparts store. Only 14mm. Can you guys confirm the size? Thanks.

YOU CAN BUY THIS ANTI-FOULER HERE:

http://www.racingsolution.com/showparts2.asp?Part_Num=1216&Function=DisplayPart

I have had it on a S-pipe and AW header so far so good. I suggest that when you do the header do the s-pipe and this all at the same time so when it starts for the first time there is no problem to re-set.

This goes on the SECOND sensor not the first. If you damage your o2 in anyway that will be why you toss a CEL 7/10 times.


Scott

I've done teh s-pipe and header and racingsolutions was supposed to bring one out to the car meet last night but never showed up. :\

I'm out to buy one now heh.

So I found some 18mm's. Does this look right? They're going on tomorrow. For some reason, I have a feeling it's still not going to work :(

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v736/nick-_-/anti2.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v736/nick-_-/anti1.jpg

So I found some 18mm's. Does this look right? They're going on tomorrow. For some reason, I have a feeling it's still not going to work :(

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v736/nick-_-/anti2.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v736/nick-_-/anti1.jpg

Make sure you drill one of them out with a 1/2" bit...opening it up completely. Screw your sensor in to this drilled out one and then screw the non-drilled one onto the that. Then screw it into the S-Pipe bung. Should be set to go and be very, very careful with the sensor.

OK, I finally did the CEL fix and it didn't work for me either. This is what I found:

1. The difficulty I had getting the s-pipe O2 sensor off was because the threads on the s-pipe were damaged. This caused the O2 sensor's threads to become stripped. I do not believe that simply attempting to unbolt the O2 sensor could have caused this. It appears that maybe some grit was on the threads of the s-pipe at the factory when the O2 sensor was installed. At least, that's the only theory I can come up with.

2. I cleaned up the s-pipe threads and carefully tightened the O2 sensor into the antifoulers and them onto the s-pipe. I put anti-seize on all the threads, too. I was able to get the O2 sensor + antifoulers tight, but i had to be gentle with it.

3. I did reset the ECU by disconnecting the battery for more than 10 minutes. I also let the car idle for 20+ minutes before driving after everything was back together again.

After 41 miles, the CEL was back.

So, here's a few questions...

1. I recall the s-pipe having some kind of screen or grating on at least one end. Am I imagining this? When I disconnected the s-pipe so I could work on removing the O2 sensor, I found that this screen is no longer there.

2. So, I'm on my back with a flashlight peering up into the Megan header. I can see all the way up to where the 4 pipes join to 1. I'm thinking "precat? *what* precat?" Shouldn't I have seen something within the air path which would be a catalyst for emissions? A regular catalytic converter has a mesh-like substance (metal, ceramic, whatever) that the air passes through. I saw nothing like this on my header. This has me puzzled.

3. I'd like to get the engine code and find out exactly what the CEL is trying to say. My tC is at the dealer today getting my first free oil change so I asked about getting the code. I was told it would be an hour's diagnostic labor @ $79! WTF is that all about? It's not going to take an HOUR to get a code from the computer. My only experience with engine computers is with my Miata. There is a driveway "trick" which allows me to connect two pins of the diagnostic connector, causing the check engine light to flash and return the error codes. Plus, Mazda techs can connect to the diagnostic connector and get the codes in a matter of minutes. Isn't the tC the same way, at least for the Scion techs???

I suppose it is possible one of the O2 sensors was damaged, but I didn't drop them or do anything other than set them on the table. I am sure all of the bolts (including the spring loaded ones) are tight and I did make sure to use the little "donut" which sits between the header and s-pipe.

The trick with connecting the pins of the connector was only for pre-OBDII ECU's as far as I know. They even made a little "key" for doing it. If you do a lot of this stuff go buy yourself a scanner. You can get a basic code reader for around $50 and a generic data diagnostic tool that plugs into your pc for around $150 that will help you with most stuff.

There is no precat in the aftermarket header. This is why you have to trick the O2 sensor. The eCU is expecting a different reading from the second one due to the cat doing its job. You are pulling the second O2 sensor out of the flow a bit to trick the ECU into seeing a different reading.

Many times the threads are damaged during removal. Always make sure that the engine is cold, and get some GOOD penetrating oil to spray all around it. Then let it set while the oil penetrates before removing. This will help prevent pulling the threads out with the O2.

Anyone try the ZPI o2 Simulator? Sounds like it would be a better way to remove the CEL.
http://www.zeropointindustries.net/store/product_info.php?products_id=73&osCsid=c70f4e7eea34b7f39fb2c18b85ec87f1

I put mine on the second one and I keep getting the 1st bank code. Somehow I damaged the first one, I guess taking it out gently and setting it on the table and putting it back in nicely didnt do the trick. I will have to try and get a new one, I know they are not cheap though.

I put mine on the second one and I keep getting the 1st bank code. Somehow I damaged the first one, I guess taking it out gently and setting it on the table and putting it back in nicely didnt do the trick. I will have to try and get a new one, I know they are not cheap though.

You can check if an 02 sensor works really easy.

You need an ohm meter and torch.

Find the 2 wires for ecu (the other 2 are for heater) and torch the 02 end for a few seconds with the ohm meter hooked up. If the resistance changes it's good. No change it's bad. Do not hold the torch on for more than a few seconds.

I put mine on the second one and I keep getting the 1st bank code. Somehow I damaged the first one, I guess taking it out gently and setting it on the table and putting it back in nicely didnt do the trick. I will have to try and get a new one, I know they are not cheap though.

That front one is about $200 at the dealership. I found this out already :tap: . Mine was stuck so I just got another one.

Make sure you drill one of them out with a 1/2" bit...opening it up completely. Screw your sensor in to this drilled out one and then screw the non-drilled one onto the that. Then screw it into the S-Pipe bung. Should be set to go and be very, very careful with the sensor.

So does it appear that I did it right? I used a 1/2" bit and that's how they came out....

i just installed a Megan Header 2 days ago and used 2 anti-foulers... and just today i got a CEL!

add 1 more antifouler and reset the ECU.. try that

If I were to add another antifouler, i would not have enough slack in the wire to connect it to the wiring harness.

megan headers just stink go alpha works

Well I couldn't pass up the deal i got... Megan Header, CF Hood bundled all for $220 w/ install from private seller. I'm gonna try reseting the ECU when i get home today! I'll keep everyone posted if the CEL comes back and after how long!

How hard was it for you guys to drill through the anti-fouler??...I am using an electric drill and am finding it extremely difficult to drill through. Was it so hard for all you guys too?
Thank you in advance....

P.S. A lil thread ressurection??...lol

for me it was brutal! I have a drill press but i was using a plain steel drill bit(as opposed to titanium or wutever) and it took for ever and alot of spraying with wd40 the heat was insane i could see smoke and sparks shooting around inside. when i finally got through,the tip(threaded part) of the nonfouler was black from the heat.
also halfway through i had to stop for ear plugs because it was screeching to the point that my ears where ringing badly.

got it done thought now to put it on...

Ok, thanks for the input!!!...I know, it is brutal and the box of brand new drill bits say they are titanium!!....

Well I guess that means I just need to keep drillin....lol

Thanks again....

ok boys and girls heres the real deal on the C.E.L Lets start from the top there are 2 cats on the stock tC exhaust. So if you do plan to score a header dont matter the brand.(I bought alphawerks,only cuz it was one of the first on the market.)Anywho back to the lecture at hand.The first O2 sensor comes before the 1st cat .So you can forget that one. The second cat is the the one everyone is bitcin about. Ok here goes the reason for CEL is there is no back pressure. YOU DELETED YOUR 1ST CAT HELLO!!! Still with me,I hope so. The exhaust flows better with no cat to restrict it, this means the 2nd O2 sensor is running lean. The second O2 sensor tells the ecu that there is not enough pressure going through the exhaust. But thats the whole reason you have a HEADER !!! So exhaust gasses will flow more freely,and that means YUP YOU GUESSED IT MORE HORSEPOWER. The only other little thing is a little bit more of fuel will be consumed.Your making more power with a better air intake,header,exhaust flow so its only natural to burn more fuel. You think turboed tCs or S/C tCs have good gas mileage,HELL NO, why do you think all forced induction setups need fuel upgrades like bigger injectors,Its cuz the more power you make the more fuel you need to power the engine.But im sure you read up on all that before you do any kind of install.Just think about it.Just cuz your car has the CEL doesnt mean your car is going to ruin. Oh yeah you anti fouler guys if the CEL bothers you that much sell your DAMN headers. All your doing is trying to trick the ECU so exhaust pressure will get trapped in the anti fouler, and the O2 will tell the ECU that everything is ok. But if the ECU thinks everything is ok its going to send the stock fuel setting to the injectors and you wont get the full potential from your 200$-700$ headersWHAT A WASTE !!! But eventually the ECU will figure it out. Another thing all the cars of today especially imports. The ECUs are so sophisticated that they will compensate for more fuel faster intake faster exhaust flow,and give all the power you paid so much money for. So why let a little CEL bother you. ANY SMART ASE CERTIFIED MECHANIC LIKE ME KNOWS THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT IS THE TOYOTA DEALERSHIP MONEY MAKER.I am a certified greasemonkey that works or toyota. So I truly hope every one reads this and stops _____ing about the CEL. :bow:

Maybe I went to far with my first post.All im trying to say is that CEL is not fixable so dont waste your time stripping out O2 sensor bungs and buying sparkplug foulers.