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Removing the Head

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Old Dec 13, 2010 | 09:13 PM
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Default Removing the Head

Over the summer, I did an engine swap with a stock 2AZ-FE for built 2AZ-FE. (So I could build 1 engine while driving the other). After the car was put back together, it wouldn't start: zero compression. While I don't exactly know what's wrong yet, I figure I'll need to pull the head regardless.

Pulling the engine last time was a nightmare: stuck bolts, broken valves, missing balance shafts, etc. So basically I'm wondering if there is anyway to remove the head without removing the engine. I've looked through numerous diagrams, and all I'd need to do is detach it from the Timing Chain Cover, break the seals, and slide it off (cover has fixed bolts so it cannot be lifted). Is this realistic? Since the engine compartment is so small, I feel that it may cause trouble.

Any advice?
Old Dec 14, 2010 | 01:44 AM
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In my experience it is usually easier and faster to pull the engine to pull the head on late model 4cyl Toyota engines. Pulling the timing cover can be a real pain with the engine still in the car because of the lack of space you have to work with.
Old Dec 14, 2010 | 02:21 AM
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Right, that's what I was leaning towards. Although I wouldn't be pulling the timing chain cover, just taking off the bolts that attach it to the head.


Last edited by tneely; Dec 14, 2010 at 02:23 AM. Reason: Picture resize
Old Dec 14, 2010 | 07:09 AM
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isnt there a stud on the head to the timing cover
Old Dec 14, 2010 | 02:51 PM
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Originally Posted by tneely
Right, that's what I was leaning towards. Although I wouldn't be pulling the timing chain cover, just taking off the bolts that attach it to the head.

It's definitely doable. The only reason I would not want to pull the engine is because then you have to refill a lot of the fluids. As far as time is concerned, it's a 2 hour job.
Old Dec 14, 2010 | 08:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Speck102
It's definitely doable. The only reason I would not want to pull the engine is because then you have to refill a lot of the fluids. As far as time is concerned, it's a 2 hour job.
So it's reasonable then? Did you ever run into difficulty?

Originally Posted by trd07tc
isnt there a stud on the head to the timing cover.
Yeah, that's why you would have to slide it off.
Old Dec 14, 2010 | 08:55 PM
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Originally Posted by tneely
So it's reasonable then? Did you ever run into difficulty?



Yeah, that's why you would have to slide it off.
I have never tried doing it with the engine in the car, however some people do it, so it can be done. Fro me it's easier to just pull the engine. I currently have a Celica where I am doing pretty much the same thing, I am swapping the head. It took me about an hour and a half from start to finish to have the engine out of the car, now I just need to swap the new head when it comes back from the machine shop and drop the engine back in. I have as much room as I need to do the job comfortably.

If you don't have a lot of space to work, then I would recommend trying to get the head off with the engine still in the car. It may take less time, but I like to have easy access to everything I am working on. Much less cursing will be involved.
Old Dec 15, 2010 | 04:09 AM
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Its pretty difficult to pull the head in a tc - id highly recommend just pulling the motor and putting it on a stand. In the end I think youll end up saving time Pulling the motor is always eaiser the second time, and 3rd, 4th, 5th, 6th, etc lol I dunno what number Im up to now pulling tc motors
Old Dec 20, 2010 | 02:39 AM
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I compromised. Removed engine mounts, hoisted the engine up partially, pulled exhaust and intake, removed cams and tied chain, took off all bolts attached to head. Now I just have to break the seal and pull it off (which will be rough, that seal is tough).

Edit: The head cannot be "slid." There are two small nubs that stick out from the base, preventing all side to side motion. You need to remove the 2 stud bolts attached to the timing cover/head (pictured above) and then pull it up.

Edit 2: Removing the head without out pulling the engine is NOT POSSIBLE. After breaking the seal, taking off all bolts, studs, etc, there is 1 bolt left on a timing chain damper/tensioner that goes from the head to the block. The bolt is positioned such that it cannot be reached nor turned. I can move the head up, down, left, right, but not remove it.

Time to pull the engine.

Last edited by tneely; Dec 20, 2010 at 09:20 PM. Reason: Updates
Old Dec 22, 2010 | 01:36 AM
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Default Verdict:

So, the engine is pulled, the head is off, and problem has been found.

The issue:


It's somewhat hard to tell, but all of the intake valves are stuck open and bent, leading to my no compression issue. I misread (read: wasn't paying attention to) the timing chain instructions, causing the turn over to completely demo the valves.

The solution: http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/part...tainers//10355 and stock valve from my local Toyota shop.
Old Dec 22, 2010 | 03:24 AM
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Glad you foudn the issue, what I am always afraid of when I am putting an egine back together when it comes to the timing chain/belt. You did what I always feared lol.
Old Dec 24, 2010 | 12:16 AM
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Hmmm reinstalling the valves is a huge pain in the butt. I got them out using a 14mm bit and pushing down on it with a wrench. Unfortunately, the valve keepers don't like going back in. I've tried 2 different valve spring compressors and neither has worked (clamp style and cork opener style). Is there a DIY around that elucidates on this? Anyone have any tips or better tools?
Old Dec 27, 2010 | 02:50 AM
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Oh. Man. It. Started.

My car hasn't moved on it's own for 6 months. I got straight valves (+1mm) in, the car back together, everything.

The car is unnaturally loud and the injectors are leaking, but it started!!
Old Dec 31, 2010 | 06:23 AM
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Nice!! I feel your pain on the valve job, I rebuilt a northstar v8 a couple months ago and the valve keepers were such a pain, even with the right tools
Old Jan 3, 2011 | 12:15 AM
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So I'm not familiar with motors much. But I want to rebuild my 06 tC head. Trying to figure if the tC is a DOHC, it doesnt say it anywhere that it is.. Or even SOHC. I would assume there is an under cam if it's not over..
Old Jan 3, 2011 | 12:30 AM
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Haha yeah, it's rough stuff. I need to replace the lifters now though because the aftermarket springs created big gaps.

@ugman it's a 2AZ-Fe (camshafts are called AZ), so DOHC. I'm not sure what you mean by under cam, but I think you're referring to valve location? If so, the valves are summerged, so traditional valve compressors don't work.
Old Jan 3, 2011 | 12:52 AM
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Was joking about the undercam. But are the cams overhead? I don't know this stuff at all, but I'm sure I need a valve adj as I'm sitting at 94K miles. Rather rubuild it than adj it.
Old Jan 3, 2011 | 01:00 AM
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I totally found my answers and Mabel for others too, right here -> http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyot...edirected=true
Old Jan 3, 2011 | 01:04 AM
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Yea, overhead camshafts. High mileage is no reason to adjust your valves. Unless you hear clicking from the camshafts, they should be left alone. Also, why do you want to rebuild your head cylinder? Stock will suit you fine unless your looking to go boosted later.
Old Jan 3, 2011 | 01:16 AM
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I plan in april to turbo. Plus I'm the kind of guy who needs to have something more durable than I need.. Just in case.. Plus it's better for my car eh? I do hear noise from my head. (I redline every day everytime any chance I have)



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