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rolled fenders problem!!

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Old Jan 5, 2011 | 12:06 AM
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Default rolled fenders problem!!

hey guys. i ran into a problem. so, when i was getting my tires mounted at this one place in l.a., i got into a pretty good conversation with the worker there. he told me he could roll my fenders for $10 each side. i only wanted the rears done, so all i had to pay was $20. pretty cheap right? well, he did a pretty crappy job doing it.

this is the left
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and this is the right
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it wasnt as bad at first, but if you live here in socal where i do, u'll know that its been raining cats and dogs here for the past few weeks. so, you can see in the pictures rust is starting to form.

i was thinking maybe going to http://www.automotivetouchup.com/ and buying the 12 oz aerosol spray paint can, some primer and paint it myself. but obviously, i need to sand it down first, cuz u can see in the pic that the original paint is starting to chip. i dont really care how good of a paintjob i do since its gonna be on the inside of the wheel well, but i just need it good enough to not chip off again.

do you guys have any recommendations on what grit sand paper i should use? any tips/hints before i go at this. and if you know of any other websites to get touch up paint by the can that's relatively cheap. any help is much appreciated.
Old Jan 5, 2011 | 12:09 AM
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btw, i was thinking maybe 180 grit sandpaper first, then 320 grit with water. thats what i saw in this video i saw. what do you guys think?
Old Jan 5, 2011 | 12:16 AM
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He didn't heat it when he bent it. That's a lot of rust...

When I did my paint I went from 500-800 then primered then sprayed the paint.

Questions we need would be: Are you doing a swatch or just the affected area, are you going to bondo the area and block to keep it smooth, and are you going to primer paint clear or just paint
Old Jan 5, 2011 | 12:23 AM
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holy cow!
Old Jan 5, 2011 | 12:37 AM
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naw, i told him if he could use a heat gun for it, and he was like, naw, i dont need one. and then procedded to hammer it in.

and, ill only be painting the affected area. which is the area that was rolled in. i dont really care if its gonna be smooth or not. i was just planning on sanding the rust down, then couple coats of primer, then few coats of paint. would i need to have clear coat since i dont care about it being seen? i just wanna stop the rest of the original paint to chip and prevent more rust to form.
Old Jan 5, 2011 | 12:45 AM
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Hit it with low grit then <320 and then smooth out the chips with some 500 wet. I would use the rustoleum primer since it should seal over the rust then paint it.

I would clear a large space if I was you just so you can wet sand it smooth without it looking funky. The best tip is to take your time and don't rush it... Also don't paint below 60 deg unless you plan on cooking it in a garage once your done.
Old Jan 5, 2011 | 01:15 AM
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cool, thanks for the tip
Old Jan 5, 2011 | 01:21 AM
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wow you have to use a heat gun to roll fenders or the paint chips and well thats exactly what looks like happened.
I'm curious to know though when you heat up the fender to roll them how ot do u have to get it or is there a limit on how hot to get it because im going to be attempting this when its warm
Old Jan 5, 2011 | 02:04 AM
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$20 well spent right there! Bwajajaja jk did u really pay him to murder your fenders? Oh well live and learn. The cheaper things in life are not always so cheap.
Old Jan 5, 2011 | 02:08 AM
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yeah, lesson learned. this is definately and example of "you get what you paid for" hahaha. damn
Old Jan 5, 2011 | 02:28 AM
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theres also a site where you buy matching paint in a rattle can..and i mean specific scion colors just dont remember it at the top of my head..
Old Jan 5, 2011 | 02:38 AM
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OOUUCCHHH
Old Jan 5, 2011 | 04:16 AM
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holy crap i'd kill him! thats a hack job, reroll them and paint them, you can just use regular black you'll never see it no need to pay any extra to get a paint that matches.
Old Jan 5, 2011 | 05:07 AM
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why do i need to reroll them?
and im getting the paint that matches my car cuz i was gonna paint my front lip and debadge my hatch garnish anyways. so mind as well make it to match if i have some extra paint
Old Jan 5, 2011 | 05:39 AM
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they aren't flat at all, you want a 90 degree roll...did he do it with an axe? i did mine with a baseball bat/hair dryer, and it looked better than that, but since then I've upgraded to a heat gun/rubber mallet.
Old Jan 5, 2011 | 11:51 AM
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bingo, not flat at all. those are litterally "rolled" haha look at them.... rolled fenders mean the lip in the fender is rolled FLAT against the body. not just rolled up. and agreed wtf did he use?
Old Jan 5, 2011 | 05:46 PM
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Oucchh, thats ____ed up.
Old Jan 5, 2011 | 06:45 PM
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Damn! I guess you do get what you pay for.
Old Jan 6, 2011 | 12:08 AM
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any pics from the outside?
it doesnt look as bad as some of the other guys around here who F'd their rolled fenders from being super low.
Old Jan 6, 2011 | 12:15 AM
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hmm, ill take some pics of the fenders from the outside. ill post them when i can. but its kinda hard to see from the outside unless you really look at them. i just wanna fix them before the rust gets any worse.

btw, anyone know a place i can get the 12oz spray paint can of touchup paint? i tried automotivetouchup.com but they said their servers were down or something. that place had it for $20, but th eother sites ive found through google, are like $25.



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