xpidiot

I've got the stock stereo in my XB, I've put Dynamat in the doors and figured out how to set the factory HU setting to XB instead of the default that sounds worse.

Beyond that, reading all the audio upgrade threads just leaves me confused. I don't need an awesome sub taking up my trunk... So in the $400-1,200 range, what's the sweet spot, the best bang for buck on how to get better audio sound?

(If you have specific HU or speaker recommendations please let me know, or if it's just more general.) I listen to rock, I want a nice solid sound, it doesn't have to rattle my teeth.

Any suggestions are appreciated, thanks!

Greg S

iTrader: (1)

Your best bang for the buck is to add a subwoofer. It doesn't need to take up you trunk and rattle the car. The stock speakers just aren't able to handle to lower frequencies of music. Adding and amp and sub will free up the speakers to play in the range that they are more capable of. Next would be to change the speakers out for better aftermarket ones and amplify them.

KaneoheKoa

Ditto what Greg says. I'd go one step more (I'm saying more, because I forgets if I should say farther or further) and design a whole system. Install the wiring for the complete system and then put in your sub. Saves install time and money (not having to do things twice). After you get the sub in, then when money allows, add in the rest of the system. And don't forget to put a roll of toilet paper in the spare tire compartment. You'll never know when you'll need that and it's best to be prepared.

Bamapolar

I have an Infinity Basslink under the passenger seat in my xb1. It sounds great and it's only $200. If you want to keep the factory head unit, I would look on ebay for a JL Audio Clean Sweep or an equivalent. It really cleans up the sound and restores the bass the factory head unit attenuates down to save the cheap factory speakers.



Maybe a component set for the front doors. I wouldn't worry about the rear speakers, I usually kept them off anyway. I didnt like the weird ambience.

Don't worry that sub, it won't rattle your dental fillings loose bit it rounds out the sound nicely and doesn't take up any cargo room.

Dennis

Bamapolar

Jl Audio, not Job Audio. Lol

RedDragons

i dont think theres such a thing as a sweet spot. if you want a decent amp and sub setup with a decent box id say be willing to spend up to around a 1000 for everything your gonna need. and dont buy boss, audiobahn or other throw away brands like that

KaneoheKoa

The problem with the rear speakers on the US xB is it's low in the door position. You can't really hear it clearly from the front (the seats block the sound). Also, the rears are single cone drivers with poor sound quality. As soon as it quits raining and I get some time, I'll finally mount my Fosgate 5" coaxials in the rear cubbies. They'll just be a light rear fill; taking away that hollow sound back there. On the domestic Japanese xB, they have speakers in the rear doors and pillar cubbies. Their back seats also recline a little too.

mustb3ds

xp

my set up is by no means perfect but it was cheap and has awsum sound and power

front doors a set of Hifonics zeus 6.5 components $60 100 w rms

rear cubby holes same components as front

rear door speakers not connected

stock head unit not the best for sure but it works ok

and 2 kicker comp 12 sealed in the back sucks up space but they kick and i can remove the box when i want

pushing it all is a small Autotec sma 1000 thro away no top of the line not by a long shot but its clean & loud (140db measured) in my car and only cost $125 brand new

my components run off the front channels stereo @2 ohm load geting about 65 rms each even tho autotec claims 200 rms @ 2ohm and the subs run off the rear channels bridged @4ohms about 400 w rms
i chose these 6.5 components because the power handling is great and the crossovers are adjustable to -3 0 & +3 db on the tweeters and the tweeters fit perfect in the stock tweeter locations(very little trimming)

i guess my point is clean sound can be acheived quite cheep but theres always drawbacks this small amp will shut down due to thermal overload if not cooled well
when run at these extremes extra ventilation and cooling is needed

i also used to do db drag competition yrs ago but im a firm believer that if you have only high db's with no sound quality you have virtually nothing **** sounds like **** no mater how loud you crank it

for hi db's and sound Q is something much more money and planning is required

my old system then was in a mini van

well over $8,000 under 300 w class and breaking 156 DB
and lets just say for clarity my 30 band Eq/preamp/10 channel 10volt outputs/dual (2) balanced line head unit imputs all in one unit 15 yrs ago did lots
and i still own that piece of equiptment

mrmondaynight

with 1200 i would get
Kenwood x794 $149 Amazon.com: Kenwood Excelon KDC-X794 In-Dash CD MP3 WMA Receiver with Remote: Electronics


Phoenix gold rsd65cs(best bang for buck comp set on the market for 3+ yrs) $99 Amazon.com: Phoenix Gold RSD6.5CS 6.5" Radial SD Series 2-way Component System: Electronics


Sundown sa-12 $194 WoofersEtc.com - SA-12 D2 - Sundown Audio 12" 600W Dual 2-Ohm SA Series Subwoofer


Mb quart onx 4.125(it'll give you 125 x 2 for your front stage & 500 x 1 @ 4 for the sub) $158 MB Quart ONX4.125 1000W RMS, ONYX Series 4-Channel Amplifier

$600 total before install, box, wiring, misc interconnects, and some light deadening.

LophatXB

If you are any good with self install, you could build a small under seat enclosure with a decent flat sub and put a five channel amp under the other seat. Then replace the factory speakers. It could put you in 1200 dollar range depending on your preference of manufacturer of the components.

Mdiesel64

iTrader: (1)

I'd recommend a Vibe Audio Setup. They've just started shipping to the United states. I run 2 of them in a custom ported box, but they have as well a Prefabbed box, with their Black air 12" sub, and two ports. The amp is built in. The ports can also be covered to your liking. It's not terribly big, and you'd still have room in the trunk.
http://www.vibeaudio.co.uk/car/blackair-enclosures/

KaneoheKoa

I just checked the Vibe site and they use something that you'll never see in a US car speaker website: the word "whilst"! How veddy British! Nice looking equipment, and they do home audio too (a nice plus). Wonder if they sound anywhereclose to B & W or KEF?

As to running an under-seat sub,you'll probably max out with a 10". Hopefully you'll find a 5 ch amp that will fit and not be too hard to cram all the wires in the well under-seat, and still look neat. I resorted to 2 under-seat 8's and amps over the spare, sacrificing the foam tool carrier.
https://www.scionlife.com/forums/sho...orking+toaster

xpidiot

Wow, thanks a lot for those recommendations, so bailing on the rear speakers gets you a power amp that's affordable, interesting. I can't build my own sub so I'd need something prefab, not exactly sure if I need one. (?)

My alternative I was looking at now is all Alpine:
Alpine CDA 105 ($170)
Alpine SPS-600C ($82.30 x 2 for all 4 doors)
Alpine Power Pack ($122)
...Is that a reasonable alternative? (It seems similar, except having the 2 back speakers instead of a sub - so IS there a prefab sub that fits under the passenger seat of an XB2?

And once I make the decision, are there any tutorials on the board for replacing HU and speakers for someone who's never done it before? The local install place quoted me $760 total installed for Alpine CDA + Alpine SPS-600 x 4 (that's WITHOUT buying the power pack), that's like $350 add-on for labor and wiring, connectins, etc, yikes.

mrmondaynight

The hu is okay. Everything else is crap. The kenwood is a lot better, though. The power pack is absolute garbage. It's power is a joke and they want 122 for it Same goes for the speakers.

Kenwood has been releasing the best bang for buck headunits for a couple yrs now. Pioneer and alpine have better higher end stuff, but it will cost you.

The phoenix gold rsd's have been the best budget speakers for the past 3 years. They're dozens of reviews online and even an article in caraudiomag.

For subs, as far as cost to performance ratio goes, nothing is beating the sundown sa series. They have plenty of motor force, long throw, and excellent cooling. I know a few guys who compete in SPL, using them. They can handle abuse and still manage good detail and depth. One of the most versatile lines in the industry, IMHO. Go with the biggest size you can afford. I believe the 15 is $230.

Putting a sub under the seat is a bad idea. It'll sound muffled to hell since it's firing directly into the seat. If space is a huge concern, go with the sa-8. It'll work in .6 cubes ported.

As far as boxes go, get one here http://argentaudio.com/index.php/fea...nclosures.html

DO NOT buy a prefab box online. A sub is only as good as the enclosure that it's in.

Mdiesel64

iTrader: (1)

^ There are underseat boxes, but you'll have to go with a slimline subwoofer.
IMHO, and i'm an arrogant teenager on the roads of New York; I blast my music, everywhere i go, using my stock speakers, and i've been doing that for over two years, mostly everyday. They hold up, and are great for stock. I think for now, a speaker upgrade is the last option, because they really are built well. I'd recommend a subwoofer and amplifier for the extra punch. And when and if clarity ever becomes an issue, consider speakers

xpidiot

OK, you've convinced me (thanks). Here's a stupid question: I originally thought the Phoenix Gold tweeters were built in to the center of the 6.5" speaker, but they're actually separate?

Where do you install the tweeters? And do you uninstall or disable the existing tweeters?

Can the Phoenix Gold 6.5's just attach to the same place where the stock speakers are now? Or do I need an adapter? (Again, feeling kind of stupid here)

Thanks for any info!

mrmondaynight

Yup. Just replace the existing drivers with the new drivers.

KaneoheKoa

The woofers will need a new mounting bracket/plate. It's not hard, but you'll need a jigsaw to make one and some 1/2 plywood (about a 1/2hour job). The tweeters will take the place of the stock tweeters, normally another easy job (may need a little glue). The only wires you need will come from your amp or head unit (they'll go to PG crossover then to the woofer and tweet). Not a hard job, but you'll need a drill, vac (suck up all the metal shavings that will fall in the door), glue and you're set. Just take your time, and if you get stuck, stop and give us a shout out. There are a lot of backyard broke-canics here to help.

xpidiot

Well, I don't have a jigsaw, so I guess these brackets will work?:
Crutchfield Speaker Adapter Brackets

KaneoheKoa

They might, but I haven't seen them in person. If they don't work, you'll need to find someone with a jig saw, or purchase one yourself (not expensive, starting around $40or so). You will need to drill out the rivets that mount the factory speaker.