Anyone removed their door panels?
03-09-2011, 09:35 AM
#1
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Anyone removed their door panels?
I'm sure a lot of people have, I'm just trying to avoid it unless I have to. So here's my question, the recessed area on the lower aspect of the door panels... behind it, is there anything of importance? or is it just dead space. I am halfway through revamping my door panels and before I drill a couple holes in it, I want to make sure that I don't puncture or damage anything important.
03-09-2011, 05:20 PM
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Hehehehe
03-10-2011, 03:29 AM
#4
The area in question has a 2" thick piece of styrofoam behind it. To remove you door panels there is one screw in the door pull pocket and one behind the cover beneath the door handle. You then pull the tweeter panel straight off and then you can pull the door panel off and un-clip the door handle. Now everthing is wide open.
03-10-2011, 02:16 PM
#8
03-25-2011, 07:58 AM
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Okay, so I've been getting a few PM's about what I did on those lower door panel inserts so I'll write up a quick DIY... I'll elaborate later if people need.
So first thing's first. You will DEFINITELY want to pull your door panels off.
I took some cardboard, (like a thick card stock paper) and traced out the area of the F&R recessed areas. Took those templates and traced them onto 1/8" MDF board. Cut those out and after making sure that they fit snug into the recessed areas used THOSE to trace the second set of "future" panels. Once the L&R panels for the F&R were cut out, I made sure that they were identical and rounded the "back side" of the future panels to make sure that they wouldn't get caught up on the rounded contour where the OEM door panel raises up.
Next, I drilled a series of holes in the MDF board where I was going to glue in the door panel plugs. (I just went to the nearest autoparts store and looked for replacement plugs that had a good 1 1/2" in length to make sure they were good and in to where I would eventually place my fabricated panels). In the front panel I used 5 plugs in an "x" pattern (one in each corner and one in the center). In the rear I drilled three holes (one in each corner). Now... since there is foam on the back side of the door panel I placed the templates onto the door and predrilled holes to match the ones in the fabricated panels. (Remember that you want the holes in the fabricated panels and in the door to be slightly smaller than the diameter of the plugs you are going to use so that they will fit snuggly into both). Once I predrilled the holes in the factory door panels I made sure that the holes I drilled into the door panels were deep enough to protrude through the foam. Now that those holes are drilled I flipped the door panels over and went back with a counter-sinking drill bit to open up the holes in the foam a bit more. I did this just to make sure that there was nothing impeding the door panel plugs I was using from not expanding as much as they could/should. with all the holes bored out I could now glue the plugs into the MDF.
I went with the "white formula" Gorilla glue, it is amazing and dries quickly. I just took a damp sponge, wetted the area around the holes, and drew a thin bead of glue around each one. Popped those suckers into place, had a beer and a cig, and let the glue dry. Now because Gorilla glue expands you will want to MAKE SURE that the plugs you use sit flush against the MDF so that they won't cause too much variation in the texture of the door panels you are making. Once the glue dried I cut away the excess glue and was ready to glue the 1/4" foam into place.
For applying the foam, I used the same spray that I did on the upper door panels, Super 99 from 3M. It takes about 2 to 3 min to tack up, depending upon temperature you are using it in. Once I thoroughly saturated the MDF and foam, I just placed the MDF panels face down onto the foam and gave it a firm press just to make sure that the foam and glue had the correct adhesion. Once those dried up, I just simply cut the panels out of the foam and got ready to lay my vinyl on. Now the reason that I used foam on this project was because, 1.) I wanted it to have a little bit more depth and some cushion, and 2.) With the foam on there, it was easier to hide where I installed the plugs. By that I mean that the plugs will most likely have a slightly convexed head and I "shaved" down the protrusion where the plug was so that once again the foam was completely flat.
In doing this you will notice that it isn't "COMPLETELY" flush and flat, but when you stretch the fabric over the foam, it will take care of that.
The vinyl I used is a Carbon Fiber textured vinyl. For one yard it cost me $25. Not bad considering... now if your as **** retentive as I am, you will want to make sure that the flow of the pattern matches the flow from the upper panel. I cut out some fabric leaving approximate 3 to 4 inches from each edge of the new panels and tweaked it till the patterns lined up with the upper panels. The great thing about having the foam on the panels now is that once you place the fabric in the position you want it, the foam basically holds it in place.
So taking the panel and fabric flip them face down and just quickly trace where the panel will be glued so you know automatically the texture will match up with the panel above it. Follow the steps you used to adhere the foam and let it dry. Now that the fabric is glued on, you can begin stretching the fabric and adhering it to the back side of the panel.
I used DAP weldwood to glue the fabric to the backside as well as a staple gun and 3/16" staples. This legnth of staple is long enough to hold the fabric in place once it's glued, yet not long enough to penetrate the foam and fabric. If you're working with vinyl, it is always a good idea to use a little heat, not only to help the Weldwood tack up (which usually takes a good 5 to 10 min) but also to soften the vinyl so that it stretches easier. So from here on out... glue, heat, stretch, tack. Shampoo, rinse and repeat, and now you're done. Just pop your new panels into place which, if you did everything correctly, should be just as easy as popping in everything else on this car.
So... I guess this DIY wasn't as "quick" as I thought it would be, but I hope it was at LEAST informative.
So first thing's first. You will DEFINITELY want to pull your door panels off.
I took some cardboard, (like a thick card stock paper) and traced out the area of the F&R recessed areas. Took those templates and traced them onto 1/8" MDF board. Cut those out and after making sure that they fit snug into the recessed areas used THOSE to trace the second set of "future" panels. Once the L&R panels for the F&R were cut out, I made sure that they were identical and rounded the "back side" of the future panels to make sure that they wouldn't get caught up on the rounded contour where the OEM door panel raises up.
Next, I drilled a series of holes in the MDF board where I was going to glue in the door panel plugs. (I just went to the nearest autoparts store and looked for replacement plugs that had a good 1 1/2" in length to make sure they were good and in to where I would eventually place my fabricated panels). In the front panel I used 5 plugs in an "x" pattern (one in each corner and one in the center). In the rear I drilled three holes (one in each corner). Now... since there is foam on the back side of the door panel I placed the templates onto the door and predrilled holes to match the ones in the fabricated panels. (Remember that you want the holes in the fabricated panels and in the door to be slightly smaller than the diameter of the plugs you are going to use so that they will fit snuggly into both). Once I predrilled the holes in the factory door panels I made sure that the holes I drilled into the door panels were deep enough to protrude through the foam. Now that those holes are drilled I flipped the door panels over and went back with a counter-sinking drill bit to open up the holes in the foam a bit more. I did this just to make sure that there was nothing impeding the door panel plugs I was using from not expanding as much as they could/should. with all the holes bored out I could now glue the plugs into the MDF.
I went with the "white formula" Gorilla glue, it is amazing and dries quickly. I just took a damp sponge, wetted the area around the holes, and drew a thin bead of glue around each one. Popped those suckers into place, had a beer and a cig, and let the glue dry. Now because Gorilla glue expands you will want to MAKE SURE that the plugs you use sit flush against the MDF so that they won't cause too much variation in the texture of the door panels you are making. Once the glue dried I cut away the excess glue and was ready to glue the 1/4" foam into place.
For applying the foam, I used the same spray that I did on the upper door panels, Super 99 from 3M. It takes about 2 to 3 min to tack up, depending upon temperature you are using it in. Once I thoroughly saturated the MDF and foam, I just placed the MDF panels face down onto the foam and gave it a firm press just to make sure that the foam and glue had the correct adhesion. Once those dried up, I just simply cut the panels out of the foam and got ready to lay my vinyl on. Now the reason that I used foam on this project was because, 1.) I wanted it to have a little bit more depth and some cushion, and 2.) With the foam on there, it was easier to hide where I installed the plugs. By that I mean that the plugs will most likely have a slightly convexed head and I "shaved" down the protrusion where the plug was so that once again the foam was completely flat.
In doing this you will notice that it isn't "COMPLETELY" flush and flat, but when you stretch the fabric over the foam, it will take care of that.
The vinyl I used is a Carbon Fiber textured vinyl. For one yard it cost me $25. Not bad considering... now if your as **** retentive as I am, you will want to make sure that the flow of the pattern matches the flow from the upper panel. I cut out some fabric leaving approximate 3 to 4 inches from each edge of the new panels and tweaked it till the patterns lined up with the upper panels. The great thing about having the foam on the panels now is that once you place the fabric in the position you want it, the foam basically holds it in place.
So taking the panel and fabric flip them face down and just quickly trace where the panel will be glued so you know automatically the texture will match up with the panel above it. Follow the steps you used to adhere the foam and let it dry. Now that the fabric is glued on, you can begin stretching the fabric and adhering it to the back side of the panel.
I used DAP weldwood to glue the fabric to the backside as well as a staple gun and 3/16" staples. This legnth of staple is long enough to hold the fabric in place once it's glued, yet not long enough to penetrate the foam and fabric. If you're working with vinyl, it is always a good idea to use a little heat, not only to help the Weldwood tack up (which usually takes a good 5 to 10 min) but also to soften the vinyl so that it stretches easier. So from here on out... glue, heat, stretch, tack. Shampoo, rinse and repeat, and now you're done. Just pop your new panels into place which, if you did everything correctly, should be just as easy as popping in everything else on this car.
So... I guess this DIY wasn't as "quick" as I thought it would be, but I hope it was at LEAST informative.
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