So I have been researching back and fourth and it seems the consensus of coilover owners is to just lay the car as low as possible. Then I hear about how mostly everyone has concerns of harsh handling and rides.


SO.... what I want to know if there are any owners here that are on coilovers and just lowered enough for a small gap and got a smooth (esq) ride from the coilovers with a decent pre-load and dampening.. experiences? speak on it

mine is mildly lowered (imo) on coilovers, but you already know my story. i should also tell you i never adjusted mine since they were put on, the only thing i adjusted was the damper settings from full soft to 25f and 20r out of 30. so i never touched the strut/shock body or spring perch rings might be why my experience is a little different from everyone else who took their time to dial in the ride to their liking.

mine is mildly lowered (imo) on coilovers, but you already know my story. i should also tell you i never adjusted mine since they were put on, the only thing i adjusted was the damper settings from full soft to 25f and 20r out of 30. so i never touched the strut/shock body or spring perch rings might be why my experience is a little different from everyone else who took their time to dial in the ride to their liking.

Yeah and thats why I am considering yours although I know not many of us here are suspension guru's but I do know that adjusting the rebound is just as essential as the dampening.. Do you have any pics of were yours sits at?

mine is mildly lowered (imo) on coilovers, but you already know my story. i should also tell you i never adjusted mine since they were put on, the only thing i adjusted was the damper settings from full soft to 25f and 20r out of 30. so i never touched the strut/shock body or spring perch rings might be why my experience is a little different from everyone else who took their time to dial in the ride to their liking.
I felt that the ride of my friend's xB2 with the D2BD coilovers was a bit softer than my KSports. I didn't feel that they were harsh at all, just a little soft for my tastes. I think this is due to the low spring rate. The D2BD rates are 6kg/mm and 3kg/mm, while KSports are 7.5kg/mm and 4.5kg/mm. I'm still highly considering going even higher.
I have my KSports adjusted about half way to full stiff, and it's a little on the stiff side. However, I like the ride better than my Hotchkis springs. I've installed a number of sets of the DF210's, and I still prefer the ride of my coilovers. Before I started dialing in the dampening, I thought the car rode really well for coilovers. If you keep the dampening turned down a bit, but the car raised up, you should be fine.

Then again, I didn't mind the ride of a Nissan Hardbody with drop spindles, torsions all the way down, and blocks. Didn't think my S10 with heated front springs and a rear leaf removed...
Now I do. :doh:

Yeah I had lowered springs and removed a leaf with a block for my s10 and it had a mild bounce. I am torn between a lowered spring/strut set up like tokico but I would prefer a 1.2 inch drop in front and 2.4 in the rear to close the gaps up and I understand to achieve this I'd have to do coilover route. Just after reading all the posts about coilovers, most guys were getting them to slam the ride. I dont care to do that, I want a mild controlled drop without the log wagon ride.. hence the reason of starting the thread.. so are you dropped on the floor? or ???


Also I wonder if thats why flyingemu was getting that jarring feeling over railroads and pot holes and such, from the lower spring rate on the D2B's?

I'd assume the lower spring rate would be a culprit for a compromised ride. D2BD's rates are the same for the xB and xB2 when the xB2 is a bit heavier. Don't know why, but they are.

If you don't want to go all that low, i'd recommend the DF210's and the Tokicos. They'll be a nice combo and more than likely get you where you want to be. I'd recommend Hotchkis, as in my situation was lower than DF210's, but the ride is a bit stiffer.
I avoid potholes like the plague. Utah being a state that gets a bit of snow and decently cold winters, all the manhole covers are about 2" below the concrete/blacktop/whatever. I avoid those, too.

I'm not that low. A good bit lower than DF210's, but I don't scrape.
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y258/xseveredveganx/100_0659.jpg

I'd assume the lower spring rate would be a culprit for a compromised ride. D2BD's rates are the same for the xB and xB2 when the xB2 is a bit heavier. Don't know why, but they are.

If you don't want to go all that low, i'd recommend the DF210's and the Tokicos. They'll be a nice combo and more than likely get you where you want to be. I'd recommend Hotchkis, as in my situation was lower than DF210's, but the ride is a bit stiffer.
I avoid potholes like the plague. Utah being a state that gets a bit of snow and decently cold winters, all the manhole covers are about 2" below the concrete/blacktop/whatever. I avoid those, too.

I'm not that low. A good bit lower than DF210's, but I don't scrape.



See I was thinking more on the lines (especially after talking to SCIONIDE) of going with the NF's because I was afraid of bottoming out or rubbing with the DF's.

I am running the TC2 19inch TRD's and though I am not 100% sure the offset is the same as the XB2 TRD's I notice that the wheels sit pretty flush within the fender in the front. However with the NF's I wasn't satisfied with the gap left in the rear, so I leaned more towards H TECHS but I noticed a few guys commenting that they were stiff in the front.. Never once thought about DF's with the Tokico combo.. You may have solved my problem there Severed.. hahah I shoulda posted this many nights and 483 well invested hours into this.. (if my wife ever found that out :frown::gun:

i'm not used to lowered cars maybe thats why i think my coilovers are harsh. the xb is the first car i've lowered on springs/coilovers so i dont really know if what im experiencing is normal lol. but kingofthecrate i dont know if you'd like the NF's the ride on them was great but the wheel gap left more to be desired, when i had them i liked the drop for the first week because it lowered the rear to make it more even but after a while the gap gets to you. if you decide to go D2DB coils just hit me up.

i'm not used to lowered cars maybe thats why i think my coilovers are harsh. the xb is the first car i've lowered on springs/coilovers so i dont really know if what im experiencing is normal lol. but kingofthecrate i dont know if you'd like the NF's the ride on them was great but the wheel gap left more to be desired, when i had them i liked the drop for the first week because it lowered the rear to make it more even but after a while the gap gets to you. if you decide to go D2DB coils just hit me up.

Yeah man, see thats the same boat I am in.. I have a 64 SS Impala but its lifted and I have a full stack of 3 ton coils in the front and 2 ton half stack coils in the rear and needless to say that thing bounces like a lifted leaf springed F350 but its not a daily driver, its a sunday cruiser and even for a heavy car it bounces and CLEARLY isn't an ideal (or safe) suspension set up at all..

The XB is my first economic import car and I have to say, I love it and I don't care what people say about them.. Filling my tank up with 35 bucks vs 110 it took in my escalade is a no brainer, I may not look like a baller but with those savings, I really AM a baller in my savings account :rolleyes:

but back on topic. yeah flyingmengu, I will keep you in mind because Im antsy to pull the trigger this week.. hell you wouldn't even have to ship to me since I live 10 min from you.. Also curious to hear your comments about your new air set up..

You have a 64 and it doesn't have a full wrapped frame and juice!? Tsk tsk...

You won't rub on anything with those wheels and DF210's. Trust me. Every once in a while i'd rub the inside fender liner with my Hotchkis setup, but no biggie. My buddy running 19x9.5's +45 in the front doesn't rub.

You have a 64 and it doesn't have a full wrapped frame and juice!? Tsk tsk...

You won't rub on anything with those wheels and DF210's. Trust me. Every once in a while i'd rub the inside fender liner with my Hotchkis setup, but no biggie. My buddy running 19x9.5's +45 in the front doesn't rub.
I rub very little with a car load with my DFs and TRD 19"s. I absolutely love the ride compared to the TRDs and factory. Best springs i've purchased.

I rub very little with a car load with my DFs and TRD 19"s. I absolutely love the ride compared to the TRDs and factory. Best springs i've purchased.

Sam, you on factory struts and shocks?

I have the 19 TRD's from the TC2 and like I said, I am not sure if the offset is the same as the Xb TRD's


and yeah I have the frame wrapped AND the rear quarter panels reinforced. I am running two pumps to the nose and one to the ___ and although I dont hop it as much as I used to, I was hitting 48 inches but I was sitting on some mickey thompson super swampers to achieve that.. the car has been rebuilt since then...http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v605/kingofthecrate/620.jpg


^^^ Yeah its no fun to clean

And since I am on photobucket and not done showing off :loser:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v605/kingofthecrate/58585_439561803366_754203366_5439702_934436_n.jpg

Here is one of my softails dumps.. now clearly riding like this will make yesterdays lunch come right up but aired up she rides good, although my biggest issue with air is that you really have to push the PSI for them to feel firm. They have kits now (for bikes anyways) that offers a two stage. It will allow you to set the travel as well on the bag which eliminates that huge oscillation that comes from bags..

alright, if you decide to buy my coils i'll only sell em if you pick them up in the 64 ahaha.. i wanna see that beast.

the tC TRDs have a 35mm ofset as opposed to the xBs having a 45mm offset. But yes im on factory struts and shocks.

alright, if you decide to buy my coils i'll only sell em if you pick them up in the 64 ahaha.. i wanna see that beast.

haha as long as you find someone to drive the flatbed trailer behind it to follow.

the tC TRDs have a 35mm ofset as opposed to the xBs having a 45mm offset. But yes im on factory struts and shocks.

Yeah so it turns out my wheels are 19x8 +35 offset.. I have them wrapped with 225-35-19 BFG's (and damn those tires are noisy :even though they have less than 100 miles on them)

I have never owned anything with a macpherson strut set up but I do know that they dont perform well under drops. I'd have to email tokico but I wonder how well they handle severe drops. Im all about looking cool but I'd like to utilize the "suspension" characteristics of the Xb.. I read up on the spring weight on the D2B's and they are significantly softer, that might work, it might work well..

Sooooo jealous of the 64!!! Serious!

I've been into lowriders since I was a young teen! Dr. Dre Chronic days! I didn't even know how to properly pronounce Guiterrez. Sheltered kid in Wyoming...
I thought you lifted the 64 ala Southern Style! Guys out here are pulling juice out of their Regals and putting on lifts and 26's. Shame.
Back to the topic at hand, I seriously think the DF's will get you where you want to be. You could run stock shocks until you feel that a change is needed. Cut down the bumpstops if you go that route. Of all the 5 sets of DF's I've installed, I didn't and I think I should have.

And if you're going to talk about spring weight, i.e. unsprung weight, look into the Swift coilover springs. They use a better material and, I think, thicker windings. Doing this allows them to use less windings, thus less unsprung weight. I've been thinking about going with their springs for my KSports. Cause I want to go lower.

Yeah severed, for me being a product of los angeles and an italian/spanish male growing up east of the 405 freeway, you wouldn't be caught dead in a regal on 26's. However now I see dude rolling around on them all the time and I feel like yelling " take that s*** back to florida" but to each his own.

Ok back in topic. I was never really interested in slamming this car, hence the reason I was going to go with a mild lower springs or coilovers to achieve a drop that would just clean up the fender gap. I'm not looking to tuck the wheels, or m********* to pictures of my car in a mean stance. I think that's why I'm a little bit leery of putting on the DF's. Maybe the TEIN H TECHS would be a more viable option, but as I said of huge concern of mine is cutting the travel out of the strut/shock which entail kills suspensions.

Which brings up another good question, I wonder how many miles we can get out of these coilovers. Are the shocks serviceable at 50,000 miles? I know they are sealed they don't seem rebuildable. Another fun fact to chew on..

The DF's still leave about a 2 finger gap, depending on how fat your fingers are. They get rid of the rake, that's for sure. I haven't messed with the Teins, but they're a very high quality product I'm sure.

As far as mileage on the shocks and struts, I removed my Hotchkis springs and OEM shocks/struts with over 50,000 on them. No leaks, what-so-ever. I've also been curious about using a Bilstein or Koni insert with the OEM strut body. I know the tC has an option from Koni with replacement inserts.

I haven't looked at our OEM struts I wonder if the top and is pressed on and not threaded to replace the insert cartridges. It would definitely be cool mod though.


I was referring to the coilovers.
What do you do with those at 50k? Take them out and have them rebuilt? I wonder what that cost and if the manufacture of these even does it?

Most coilover manufacturers can either rebuild the damper insert, or sell you a new one. KSport charges around $110apiece for the new cartridges. BC Racing charges $110. Fortune Auto can rebuild your inserts for $125 a corner, and you can have them dyno them for like $25 more apiece.

I've been out of adjustable suspension for a year or so now and focusing solely on static.

Most coilover manufacturers can either rebuild the damper insert, or sell you a new one. KSport charges around $110apiece for the new cartridges. BC Racing charges $110. Fortune Auto can rebuild your inserts for $125 a corner, and you can have them dyno them for like $25 more apiece.

I've been out of adjustable suspension for a year or so now and focusing solely on static.



I think the key word here severed is "adjustable" I either want it to go up and down with a switch or not at all. Haha The days of me driving my car up on a curb And sliding underneath it are over. I'm 33 I don't care about that stuff anymore, I'm also having my first child in april. The coilovers sounded good because it didint compromise the shock and when you think about it the xb is really only a little over in the front, the rear you are just getting an adjustable perch with adjustable shock. I don't know if anyone here has tried but I wonder if I could purchase the rear separate. The biggest issue with the lowering springs on the car is the rear gap. Who's to say I can call up 1 of these manufacturers in say " hey I previously purchased a cat in my car was rear ended and I just need the rears replaced"???

Sorry about the spelling, my stupid pile of crap droid phone sucks with the voice recognition. I meant to say call the manufacturer and tell them you alrrady purchased a kit and a vehicle was in an accident in you need to replace the rear perch springs and shocks.

You possibly could buy just the rear from some manufacturers. Just call them and let them know you bought a set of their coilovers, used, but the seller forgot to send the rears. Could work.

UPDATE

Picked up some tanabe DF's pretty reasonable and I will be tossing them on in hopefully next week when they arrive before I leave town again..


here she ____s currently

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v605/kingofthecrate/IMG_2260.jpg

i say good choice on DF springs. i had the NF when i was running springs and always thought i should have bought DF's since it wasnt low enough for me. pics after the install

Got the springs in yesterday, I installed the tanabe strut brace and TRD intake last night. holy ____ did that strut brace make that car feel like a freaking tank now..

in other news, I have to replace the cases on my harley after building a stroker motor for that and so far that little project is costing me another 3k to do so after I put the springs on, I think the mods to my XB are gonna slow down until after xmas.. I got a baby coming and these trips to the pumpkin patch are killing me..


Thank god the impala doesent get driven enough to give me all this fun

Haha! Harleys are ridiculously expensive!

And think, for a little more than $3k, you could turbo your xB!

Haha! Harleys are ridiculously expensive!

And think, for a little more than $3k, you could turbo your xB!

Severed, thats only THIS time.. if you are in for a good laugh at my expense.. this is a little lesson I call DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME

I buy my harley off some idiot who clearly grenades this motor way beyond what he told me had happened..

I put 200 miles on the bike.. the outer pinion shaft (part of the crank) sheers off, bike dies on freeway.. cases need to be split and a new flywheel must be put on (cost=1200)

After splitting the cases and assembling motor, I get 40 miles down the highway and the head gasket spits out.. turns out the threads pulled from the head (very common issue with harley evo motors) pull the heads off and put timesert into the threads and reassemble and on my merry way (cost=300)

this time I put 1000 miles on it and it spits the gasket out again.. turns out the timeserts pulled out and I have to split the case AGAIN and have if weld filled, tapped and the guy who does the machining work tells me "these things will never fall back out, I even welded the timeserts in" (cost=1400)

put another 1000 on the bike and now I get white smoke from the front cylinder dumping out of the pipe.. pull the cylinder jugs off and the piston (which is new) burned a hole right through the cylinder wall.. turns out with the stroker kit and 10 over piston bore, the stock heads couldnt handle the high compression and wasnt allowing the engine to breath.. head work being done, ported, bigger valves and stronger springs, new cylinders front and rear.. (cost=2100)

after putting the engine back together and torquing the heads... you guessed it.. case bolts spinning and pulled out the timeserts AGAIN.. the machine shop guy who "fixed it" tells me he can put in a bigger timesert.. biggest one they have. he does, charges me 70 bucks and I put the heads back on and the damn bolt SPINS AGAIN..


so now I am being told the factory cases obviously were compromised from overheating or whatever.. so now i get to order new cases (950) from S&S and rebuild the entire bottom end AGAIN (cost=1000)

so lets tally this up

$6950 is what I have dumped into this motor so far..


it went from an 80 inch evo to a true 96 inch stroker and it putting out over 100 hp (for a bike thats fast)

a factory built S&S 96 in stroker motor with all the bells and whistles $5180

and that comes with carb, perfomance oil pump (which I have) and S&S ignition..

so needless to say I could have just bought the stupid motor from the crate and been done with it..


this thing better outrun the mother ____ing cops once its finished..


anyways, installing the DF's on monday and I will post pics..

Not trying to be a dick, but next time you'd probably be better served buying Japanese.

Not trying to be a dick, but next time you'd probably be better served buying Japanese.

Club rule #1

Patched members are required to own and ride Harley Davidson motorcycles..

Dont worry, I'm not offended but you dance with whom you came

Well here she sits..

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v605/kingofthecrate/photobucket-1178-1319498810622.jpg


I have to admit I am pretty impressed the difference in the ride from stock to the tanabe's and I am happy I got them, its lowered perfect for me and the ride improved from the factory springs.


I set the camber in the front - 0.4 right and 0.2 left because Im a big dude at 6'0 290 and it will adjust out once sitting in the car. The negative camber will give me better handling and the rears were within specs..


Im happy and now onto finishing the audio system.. and acoustically treating the roof and doors, this thing is louder than a cow fart in a tin ____ing can..

looks good, closed up the gap in the wheel wells nicely.

looks good, closed up the gap in the wheel wells nicely.

Yeah seriously I thought I was gonna regret it and this thing was going to be slammed beyond what I wanted..

So quick update but I am rubbing over mild dips or hard turns.. I thought it was the fenders but I dont see any fender wear or tire scrape.. Maybe the inner plastics? I might have to move up to a stiffer spring to keep this thing from bottoming out.. maybe sway bars? or should I just throw the tokico blues in?

Pull the wheels off and give it a look. I'd assume it's just the fender liners.

Pull the wheels off and give it a look. I'd assume it's just the fender liners.

its just the fender liners.. I am hesitant to remove them since there is no separation from the engine compartment without them.. so in other words ____ it.. Ill throw some tokicos on after the holidays to firm out the ride

They'll wear away eventually and have holes, like mine. Or you can get in there with a heat gun, heat up where it's hitting, and push that section away a bit. Stretch it, if you will.

They'll wear away eventually and have holes, like mine. Or you can get in there with a heat gun, heat up where it's hitting, and push that section away a bit. Stretch it, if you will.

Hmmm good point. I will do that this week..

besides you and i need to chit chat about how and where I am mounting two 8's or that shallow mount JL audio 13' in this _____

Try is man http://oemaudioplus.com/mobile/#/mobile/systems/xB.html
Check out their YouTube video of the installation. Nice and clean, to me it puts some of the extra weight towards the middle of the car and at its lowest point. Should be better for handling compared to a system in the rear.

i scrape everywhere :-)


http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee304/slamdyota/1306626605.jpg

Hmmm good point. I will do that this week..

besides you and i need to chit chat about how and where I am mounting two 8's or that shallow mount JL audio 13' in this _____

Two decent 8's will outperform the 13TW5.

You can actually mount 8's in the doors. There's seriously enough room. However, finding the appropriate driver may be a bit of footwork. I'm thinking about doing this myself. PM me and I'll hit you up with ideas.

crap, I failed and didnt read this reply after I just vomited all over another post about that JL 13TW5...


btw slammed yota... ROLL TIDE!!

@slamdyota, what's your setup. Coilovers?

@slamdyota, what's your setup. Coilovers?

D2BD coilovers from scionpro :icon_biggrin: