I have an 09 tc, auto tran.

I recently added an HKS axle back exhaust, an injen cold air intake and DME headers. I will eventually put on the mid pipe (when I buy it) and other mods.

But for now, I'm curious to know what my true hp/trq is.

Injen CAI - 12hp/12trq
HKS Exhaust - ive read 8-10hq/ havnt read about trq
DME Headers - 8-10hp/6-8trq

This is what the fastscions.com site has under the mods.

Knowing that the first gen tc's had 160 hp starting off, and adding all these together. You get around 32 hp/trq gain.

so this means my tc is at 192.

Now i dont know if thats the actual case or not. I do feel the difference, and it is way faster than it was. The biggest difference was with the intake and headers, I didnt feel much difference off the exhaust.

But does anyone know what my actual hp trq could be at? I don't have the time to dyno my car till the semester is over, and i just what a close guesstimate of what it could be.


any help is amazing.

is a downpipe worth the buy? (just another question haha)

thanks again.

 

Don't believe the numbers they tack on to the product. I bet if you asked for dyno proof they wouldn't be able to provide it. Look around on here and see how hard it is to break 200whp N/A.

 

yeah. my whole goal is to just get around 195-200. breaking 200 would be nice but isnt my goal right now.

so lets say also got an spipe, crank pully and intake manifold along with my cai, exhaust and headers. how close would i be to that?

a turb or supercharger is not in my future, i dont have that kind of money. lol

 

with the same mods i dyoed at 138whp and 140 wtq.

 

Firstly, the scion has a single header, not headers.

Just like Jon pointed out, the numbers shown on websites are rarely backed up and nearly improbable to base off of. While on paper you may have gained 32 or XX amount of something, if you were to actually dyno the vehicle it would be a 1/4 of that. (if any) Your original number of 160ish is also based off engine horsepower, not horsepower to the wheels. Manual's and Auto's have drivetrain power loss, the automatics generally have a fair amount more however.

tC's don't actually have downpipes. The exhaust system goes HEADER, S-PIPE, MID-PIPE, AXLE BACK.

An intake manifold will gain a few hp, but the cost of it will far out weigh any gains. Not to mention the the install is quite lengthy and a pain in the back. Crank pulley's will free up a few HP via less rotating mass. There's always debates on cars if the crank pulley is worth it, since it can cause vibration issues and wear issues.

Finally, we can play "how much HP do I have" all day, but the only true way to tell is goto a dyno.

 

^true. Not trying to be a douche but your probably at 170 if that considering stock your at 150ish. Theres a couple dyno sheets of stock tc's. It takes a lotttt of modding to get to that 200 hp mark. cams/valves/rods all that good stuff. When i had my auto tc with intake and header my buddy that had a standard tc with an exhaust still beat me lmao. But anyway good luck man. All the mods make it a real fun car to drive but that 200hp is really hard to make

 

haha i love it when people go header not headers. lol sorry but it makes me laugh. i understand the difference, but the letter isnt a big deal when dealing with text. also to mention we all know tc have a header. not headers but i digress.

yeah im shocked that its that low. i meaan i first got all the mods and i was like YEAH SICK 192 hp WOOT. then i got to reading and noticed that it isnt that, and that the claimed hp gains arent what they say.

yea i know i have to get it dynoed to get a precise hp number. but i did mention a guesstimate. give or take, here or there, not this or that.

lol, anyways. so if you dynod at 130 i wonder what some eclipse would dyno at? you roughly got 30 off your hp from dyno so a normal eclipse that has 130 hp is now down to 100? (not the ones with 250)

how much hp does it take to feel the difference then? cause if i only gained 10-15 hp off all that, i must say it feel like i got more than jsut that. Im not saying my tc is super quick or anything, but it seems to have a longer stronger pull.

do you guys recommend taking stuff out of my car that i dont use to lose some weight? i did read that weight kills the hp. any thoughts?

 

plecibo (sp?) affect. i dyno'd on a dynojet which are considered to be high reading. car had probably 20K miles on it.

 

btw i lied that was before the altitude correction (dyno'd in CO) it was 167whp and 169wtq

 

Not everybody is dishonest.
When power increases are quoted, they are usually on a stock motor.
When you add more modifications, you gain a percentage.
Simple as that.

If you are concerned with whp, you're in the wrong car. Muscle cars are great at going fast in a straight line...
If you want to tune the suspension to handle amazingly, you are in the right car.

 

FYI..... car manufacturers dyno a new car's motor without the car and usually under best conditions. adding all the bolt ons is not adding power to the baseline of the motor, it is freeing up power that emissions, sound deadening, and extra weight is taking away from the baseline. the proof is in dynoing your car without any bolt ons and then again after the bolt ons. your not going to get more than 160 on the dyno even after your bolt ons. if you want 200 na you are going to have to go a more expensive route... ie: more compression, aggressive cams, and port & polish. you will have to 'build' your motor to get over the stock bump.

i think that some of these guys just didnt realize that you are a noobie and have noobie questions... dont worry, dude, they did too at one time.

 

Keeame, your example with an eclipse is flawed. A big determining factor in drivetrain loss is gearing ratios and final drive. You're on the right track in thinking, but a lot more goes into WHP then simple motor parts.

 

Red's description is also flawed.
The engine is dynoed at the flywheel. Yes. It will not run properly without exhaust. You are wrong there.
Also, the weight of the car has absolutely no effect on the horsepower. It does on the track, yes, but not on the dyno. Sound deadening affecting power? Are you kidding?

 

Yeah. It seems as if everyone has a different story, rofl.

I am a noob(somewhat) at this. I do understand the BHP is different than WHP and that the whp is what matters. Although, doesn't it make sense that if the car is lighter the better? For example, when i drive an extra person i can tell that the car is not as quick. I do understand that its not degrading the hp, but it takes more hp to get the car going than it would by myself. So in theory, the less ____ I have in my car the lighter it is, which in effect will make it quicker(somewhat). Right? Or is weight such a small factor there is no difference to be noticed?

I'm concentrated on straight aways. From what someone said above(not sure who) they said that tc isnt best for that. Well...thats the car I have, and I want to be quick on straight aways. haha I dont have the cash to go buy a muscle car. But in the future, this is something I will consider. Whats a good quick muscle car? (not to familiar with it)

And i want to buy the invida s pipe. Will this make my car sound more raspy? If so, I dont think Ill buy it. (this is what im mainly worried about with this purchase.) When I got my headers, (i know header) it sounded more raspy than I expected. Way more actually. Then I bought a new o2 sensor cause mine was ____ed up, and that actually fixed it (somewhat). still has some raspy to it. But does the invidia pipe add anything at all to the car? I understand its a better exit for the exhaust and so on, but does this make a difference in how the car drives itself? Faster? No effect?

And is there a better s pipe to purchase than the invida one? I can only find that s pipe for a tc online.

thanks again guys.

 

The new O2 sensor did nothing for the sound, except in your head. O2 sensors monitor the exhaust of the vehicle and the front most will slightly adjust the car's air/fuel ratio.

Weight is a concern, but does not affect horsepower. The more weight obviously the more power it takes to move.

An S-pipe is an s-pipe, that's really all there is to it. You could get an ebay one and be fine.

 

I have a cai and an exhaust with light weight pulleys. I did a dyno with about 50k miles on the car and had about 150whp on a dyno jet. Yes weight does matter, in a straight line or on a road course, I think it can effect on the dyno, but sure. A good muscle car I would think is a ford mustang or a chevy camero. I think those are the two most popular ones. Forgive me if I am wrong about anything just my opinion.

 

Weight does matter as far as the hp moving the car.
The tC is a 161hp car.
Exactly how fast in a straight line do you want to go?
The reason I originally suggested a muscle car is they typically are built for straight line and typically handle like crap. Some of the new breed are proving this wrong though.
As I learned by racing an xA, you are wasting your time. As the xA couldn't compete in its class, the tC is not going to be a fast straight line car without a lot of money invested.

 

First of all.... I just want to chime in with the fact that your tC being at 161 hp is at the Crank.

This is NOT the power that is being put down at the wheel. When you place your car on the dyno, you will experience a drop in the "horsepower" and "torque" numbers due to the loss of power through the drivetrain.

For those parts to net 12 horsepower.... I have suspicions that the gain is at the crank.... which after taking into account the loss through the drivetrain, you'll be at about 2 to 3 horsepower gain at the wheel.


With just the simple bolt-ons, you will NOT get to 200 horsepower.



Then there's the thing with the crankshaft pulley.... it will only register an increase in horsepower on an inertia based dyno.... though that leads into a whole discussion that has their own threads in which people "discuss" the subject.

 

I always love it when people try to make power with full bolts ons and claim the reason why is because they can't afford boost, but if they were smart and add up the cost of intake,exhaust,header,pulleys and manifolds the price would add up to a decent used turbo kit that they could run on stock intake manifold and exhaust and still make over 250

 

It's because of the following reasons (this is no way is directed at people in the thread)...

1) they actually can't afford all the bolt-ons because mommy and daddy only gave them $200 to play with.

2) They don't have the expertise to install a turbo so they want easy to install parts.

3) They just want to make a little more power without having to deal with complications.

4) They are trying to be the next tCPete, JimmyJun, etc etc etc.

5) They have not done the research so they come on the forums and post something along the lines of "I want to make my car faster" and then say they only have a budget of $200.

6) They're trolling


Not sure if I have missed any reasons. /=