Any interest on a photo step by step on this job? I am replacing both my front tomorrow morning. I know there isn't a write up here on this and it is quite costly if done at a dealer or shop.

Yes, PLEASE!!

^^^ QFT!!!

I would love to see it!

This job took me 2 ½ hours including the time to take pictures and to keep getting more tools. I had a lot of tools available to me that you may or may not have access to. The auto shop on base had everything I needed so the majority of the work was done with air tools. So for starters lift the car in the air and remove the wheels.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v125/lllsyruplll/wheel%20bearings/1.jpg
Then remove the brake calipers, there are 2 bolts holding the piston part of the caliper. Remove those and set the pads aside. Remove the other 2 bolts holding the caliper to the spindle and secure the caliper out of the way.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v125/lllsyruplll/wheel%20bearings/3.jpg
Remove the rotor; you may need to smack it on the backside with a mallet to break it free. Mine was rusted on and I needed to thread 2 bolts into the small holes to break it free.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v125/lllsyruplll/wheel%20bearings/33.jpg
With the rotor off locate the outer tie rod and take the cotter pin off the bolt and remove the nut. This is a ball joint and will require you to either press it out or give it a good whack with a mallet to break it free.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v125/lllsyruplll/wheel%20bearings/5.jpg
On the bottom of the spindle, the lower control arm connects with a ball joint. Remove the cotter pin and nut and break the ball joint free.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v125/lllsyruplll/wheel%20bearings/6.jpg
Take the 2 nuts on the strut bolts off and leave the top bolt in until you are ready to remove the spindle.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v125/lllsyruplll/wheel%20bearings/7.jpg
VERY IMPORTANT take the ABS line off (this is a $200+ part to replace).
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v125/lllsyruplll/wheel%20bearings/9.jpg
Remove the axle nut and hammer the axle through the spindle.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v125/lllsyruplll/wheel%20bearings/11.jpg
Now we can take the bolt out of the strut and pull the spindle off the car.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v125/lllsyruplll/wheel%20bearings/13.jpg
Remove the C clip from the bearing (needle nose pliers work well).
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v125/lllsyruplll/wheel%20bearings/14.jpg
Position the spindle assembly on the press with the stud side down, use a socket to apply the pressure to the inner race of the bearing, and press the bearing out. This will separate the hub assembly from the spindle.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v125/lllsyruplll/wheel%20bearings/15.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v125/lllsyruplll/wheel%20bearings/16.jpg
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Place the hub assembly stud side down on the press and secure with a holding fixture. The fixture should fit snug around the bearing itself.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v125/lllsyruplll/wheel%20bearings/19.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v125/lllsyruplll/wheel%20bearings/20.jpg
Use a socket to apply the pressure to the hub and press the hub out of the bearing.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v125/lllsyruplll/wheel%20bearings/29.jpg
Place the spindle on the press with the outboard side up. Put the inner race that was pressed off the hub over the exposed ball bearings. Then use a socket to apply pressure to the bearing and press the bearing out of the spindle.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v125/lllsyruplll/wheel%20bearings/27.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v125/lllsyruplll/wheel%20bearings/26.jpg
You should be left with a bearing, hub, and spindle. Now it’s time to press in the new bearing. There is no need to grease the bearings at all and it will actually create problems if you grease them. Position the spindle on the press with the inboard side up.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v125/lllsyruplll/wheel%20bearings/23.jpg
Use a socket to apply the pressure to the outer rim on the bearing and press the bearing down until you feel it seat completely.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v125/lllsyruplll/wheel%20bearings/24.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v125/lllsyruplll/wheel%20bearings/25.jpg
Install the C clip to the inboard side of the bearing.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v125/lllsyruplll/wheel%20bearings/31.jpg
Now place the hub, stud side down, onto the press. Set the spindle with bearing on top of the hub, inboard side up. Use a socket to apply the pressure to the inner race of the bearing and press the bearing and spindle onto the hub. Be careful not to go too far and blow the C clip out.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v125/lllsyruplll/wheel%20bearings/32.jpg
You should be left with a complete spindle/hub assembly. Use the same process for the other spindle/hub assembly. To re-install the spindle, seat the lower control arm stud and let the axle shaft slide into the hub. Use a pry bar if needed to apply downward force to the lower control arm to get the bolts through the strut. Be careful not to pull the inner axle shaft out of the inner CV joint. Secure the axle nut, lower control arm nut w/ cotter pin, and strut bolts. Seat the tie rod stud to the spindle and secure with the nut w/ cotter pin. Re-install the ABS line, rotor and brake caliper and pads. Put the wheels on and drop the car down. You shouldn’t need an alignment after this job. Now take the car for a spin and enjoy the smooth quiet ride. I hope this will help anyone who attempts this job. Please use this as a guide and not a technical manual; every car will have its own slight differences.

Excellent! Thanks much!