Amp Help
11-04-2011, 06:31 AM
#1
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Amp Help
I know my current setup is not spectacular or anything special. However I would like to add some power to it.
Amp: Kenwood KAC 7205
Subs: Kenwood KFC W3012
The subs are bridged, however the amp is overheating quickly. I am considering buying a second KAC 7205 and changing the subs out with possibly some Kicker Comps or replacing the OEM (yes...OEM) head unit.
Here are my questions:
What would be the best way to gain more sound without spending a boat load?
What settings would be the best on the amp to keep it from overheating?
Would Kicker Comps have a better sound?
What are your suggestions that are reasonable?
Amp: Kenwood KAC 7205
Subs: Kenwood KFC W3012
The subs are bridged, however the amp is overheating quickly. I am considering buying a second KAC 7205 and changing the subs out with possibly some Kicker Comps or replacing the OEM (yes...OEM) head unit.
Here are my questions:
What would be the best way to gain more sound without spending a boat load?
What settings would be the best on the amp to keep it from overheating?
Would Kicker Comps have a better sound?
What are your suggestions that are reasonable?
11-04-2011, 07:44 AM
#2
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Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 390
I need a little more info about your system wiring to figure out the overheat problem.
When you say the subs are bridged, are you:
1. Using a pair of subs (the W3012's are 4 ohm)?
2. Are they wired in series or in parallel?
If they are wired in series, then your load to the amp is 8 ohms. If they are in parallel, then they're presenting a 2 ohm load. Running an 8 ohm load to the amp in a bridged mode will cause no problems (each side of the amp sees a 4 ohm load). However, if you're running a 2 ohm load in a bridged mode, the amp now sees only 1 ohm per side, 1/2 what is should see, so it'll run harder and hotter.
When you say the subs are bridged, are you:
1. Using a pair of subs (the W3012's are 4 ohm)?
2. Are they wired in series or in parallel?
If they are wired in series, then your load to the amp is 8 ohms. If they are in parallel, then they're presenting a 2 ohm load. Running an 8 ohm load to the amp in a bridged mode will cause no problems (each side of the amp sees a 4 ohm load). However, if you're running a 2 ohm load in a bridged mode, the amp now sees only 1 ohm per side, 1/2 what is should see, so it'll run harder and hotter.
11-04-2011, 08:34 AM
#3
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I need a little more info about your system wiring to figure out the overheat problem.
When you say the subs are bridged, are you:
1. Using a pair of subs (the W3012's are 4 ohm)?
2. Are they wired in series or in parallel?
If they are wired in series, then your load to the amp is 8 ohms. If they are in parallel, then they're presenting a 2 ohm load. Running an 8 ohm load to the amp in a bridged mode will cause no problems (each side of the amp sees a 4 ohm load). However, if you're running a 2 ohm load in a bridged mode, the amp now sees only 1 ohm per side, 1/2 what is should see, so it'll run harder and hotter.
When you say the subs are bridged, are you:
1. Using a pair of subs (the W3012's are 4 ohm)?
2. Are they wired in series or in parallel?
If they are wired in series, then your load to the amp is 8 ohms. If they are in parallel, then they're presenting a 2 ohm load. Running an 8 ohm load to the amp in a bridged mode will cause no problems (each side of the amp sees a 4 ohm load). However, if you're running a 2 ohm load in a bridged mode, the amp now sees only 1 ohm per side, 1/2 what is should see, so it'll run harder and hotter.
I just took the easy route (this is where my ignorance shows). I took the power wire from one sub and connected it to the other and ran that to the amp. The same goes for the ground.
I am assuming it would be better to to take the positive and run it to one sub and the ground to the other. Then connect the subs in the box with the positive from one ran to the negative on the other.
11-05-2011, 07:27 AM
#4
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It sounds like your subs are wired in parallel, running at 2 ohms. To get rid of the overheat problem, you'll need to run them in series, which will bring the impedance up to 8 ohms.
Amp positive to sub1 positive, sub1 negative to sub2 positive, sub2 negative to amp negative. Think of it like the 2 batteries in a flashlight. The alternative is to run the subs in stereo to the amp, but you'll need to run another speaker wire to do that.
Amp positive to sub1 positive, sub1 negative to sub2 positive, sub2 negative to amp negative. Think of it like the 2 batteries in a flashlight. The alternative is to run the subs in stereo to the amp, but you'll need to run another speaker wire to do that.
11-05-2011, 07:35 AM
#5
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It sounds like your subs are wired in parallel, running at 2 ohms. To get rid of the overheat problem, you'll need to run them in series, which will bring the impedance up to 8 ohms.
Amp positive to sub1 positive, sub1 negative to sub2 positive, sub2 negative to amp negative. Think of it like the 2 batteries in a flashlight. The alternative is to run the subs in stereo to the amp, but you'll need to run another speaker wire to do that.
Amp positive to sub1 positive, sub1 negative to sub2 positive, sub2 negative to amp negative. Think of it like the 2 batteries in a flashlight. The alternative is to run the subs in stereo to the amp, but you'll need to run another speaker wire to do that.
I thought about going with a second KAC 7205 and bridging each sub and turning the amp output to around 300 (if possible).
Or keeping the wire setup and going with some Kicker C124's or trading a Xbox360 for some Kicker L7's if I can.
11-05-2011, 07:45 AM
#6
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I'm guessing there's a typo in your second sentence: "Then the + from sub2 to the - on the amp". I"m assuming you meant "Then the - from sub2 to the - on the amp.
Your sub xover frequency would normally be around 80-100hz to compliment your 6" main speakers in front. Ah, another set of questions: what speakers are you running up front and what's powering them? If it's the stock HU, no sub set-up, no matter how big or powerful, will sound good unless the main fronts keep up with them.
Your sub xover frequency would normally be around 80-100hz to compliment your 6" main speakers in front. Ah, another set of questions: what speakers are you running up front and what's powering them? If it's the stock HU, no sub set-up, no matter how big or powerful, will sound good unless the main fronts keep up with them.
11-05-2011, 07:57 AM
#7
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I'm guessing there's a typo in your second sentence: "Then the + from sub2 to the - on the amp". I"m assuming you meant "Then the - from sub2 to the - on the amp.
Your sub xover frequency would normally be around 80-100hz to compliment your 6" main speakers in front. Ah, another set of questions: what speakers are you running up front and what's powering them? If it's the stock HU, no sub set-up, no matter how big or powerful, will sound good unless the main fronts keep up with them.
Your sub xover frequency would normally be around 80-100hz to compliment your 6" main speakers in front. Ah, another set of questions: what speakers are you running up front and what's powering them? If it's the stock HU, no sub set-up, no matter how big or powerful, will sound good unless the main fronts keep up with them.
The door speakers are OEM right now and Stock HU. I know I need to replace all of them eventually. My Civic and Holiday planning have eaten up must of my funds at this moment.
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