Hey guys!

I recently had my turbo motor rebuilt by a well-known shop in my area and the oil light has started to flicker after warming up. It only does it at idle and is coupled with a slight leaning of the mixture. The motor also got a new oil pump and I'm waiting on a new PCV valve from Toyota. It was supposedly align bored, although I don't remember being billed for that part, so now I'm questioning bearing clearances. I haven't had a chance to put an oil pressure gauge on it yet as it's the holidays and parts stores are closed this weekend, so I'd appreciate any help!

Other than this issue, the car drives fine and feels strong, although the new, lower compression means I don't really know how "strong" feels yet, without boost.

If it's worth anything, I had the shop use ACL race bearings for everything and a new OEM crank.

Thanks in advance!

 

that could be a number of things. first i would get a reading with a gauge to see if it is actually loosing oil pressure. that will give you a good start.

 

when i had my motor built i had no such problem i am also using all acl race bearings also but original crank.

make sure that the car has oil in fresh motors are now to eat a bit of oil in the break in process.

 

If they didnt clearance the bearings properly an excessive clearance could lead to lower oil pressure which could cause the light to flicker if it drops below the threshold. Im assuming youve already checked the oil level to make sure its just not low on oil? Also what weight oil are you using? If the clearances are a tad big (but still within reason) you could run a heavier oil. I personally run 10w40, and Ive heard of people running a 15w50. Remember this is a race engine, not stock. Alot of engine builders keep things looser so they dont get to tight with excessive heat.

 

Also keep in mind our engines idle oil pressure is not to drop below 4psi per the manual and boy is 4 psi low

 

that 50 weight is a beast in winter. i used it in my vw days.

 

Thanks for the replies guys! I checked it with a gauge and it's getting 0 psi at idle and jumps to around 10 at 3k rpms. This if from a reading at the sending unit so I am currently trying to pull that OCV valve filter on the back of the block and see if it's clogged, since I had previously spun a bearing and it might have pieces in there. I feel like the bottom end is getting oiled but that filter is preventing top end pressure. Also, I'm running 10w30 right now but it was just for this first oil change then I plan on moving to something a tad thicker.

I thought it could've been the bearings at first, but I'm a little in doubt that a slightly off clearance would cause 0 psi at idle, or am I wrong? My engine builder and I both agreed that everything sat fantastic so I'm at a loss.

 

The OCV filter would not restrict oil to the sending unit. It only filters oil going to the VVTI actuator. You could have a blocked oil passage in the block or head, thats really my only guess if its actually running. if you were getting no oil pressure on the bottom end at idle, odds are youd have spun another bearing by now.

 

That's what I'm thinking. I ran it for about two days with this issue until I actually checked the oil pressure. Should I pull the head?

 

-Pull the oil pan and check the bearings then check the head.
-Lack of oil to VVTI actuator can cause issuses which you definitely don't want.

-Oh!! Also did you do a Balance shaft delete/removal on your motor?
If so make sure the oil feed passage for the balance shafts are blocked off.

Good luck bro I'm in the same boat kinda. My built motor knocks at idle. I hope it's a bad oil pump.

 

____ didnt even think about that. Yeah make sure if you removed the balance shafts that the oil feed for them is plugged.

 

Actually, now that I think about it, the oil feed for the balance shaft was not plugged. Would this cause a significant drop in pressure like I'm having?

 

yes that is a pressured oil line if its open building no pressure easy fix pop oil pan off and seal it up not to hard. i threaded in a bolt with abunch of jb weld worked for me

 

Plug up the oil passage for the balance shafts and report back!

 

wowww that makes a lot of sense. I'll plug the hole tomorrow after work. I assume you have to tap it first, so does anyone have a size of tap and bolt for that?

 

i just dad a bolt laying around i didnt tap it at all

 

should I just insert a bolt and JB weld? or tap it and threadlocker it?

 

some one else chime in i used jb weld

 

Ask DeanzaJig he plugged up my oil passage on my semi built block, not sure what he used. Or ask crush.

 

thread locker wont seal it considering its pressurized, jb weld will do the trick just be just to clean off ALL oil arounf the area as jb hates bonding to oil surfaces