Tools Needed:
Metric Socket Set
Torx 5.0mm socket
WD40
Floor Jack
Jack Stands
4" or 6" Socket Extension
12mm Open Head Wrench
Adjustable Wrench (or 15/16 Open Head wrench )

Optional:
New Exhaust Manifold Gasket (P/N 17173-28010)
12mm Deep Socket
Impact Wrench
Torque wrench
Work Mat
Drill
1/2th bit

First and foremost Please DO NOT!!! WORK UNDER THE CAR WHILE IT REST ON A FLOOR JACK... Use jack stands, I've had a bad experience with a car held only on a jack trust me its worth the 15 dollars or so...


http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/header_install_tc/01.jpg
Now that I have some stands thanks to Jesse(from focaljet) I jack the car up from the front support.


http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/header_install_tc/02.jpg
I then place one stand on each side of the car using the cars side supports.


Now that you have done this its time to get down and dirty :)

*Make sure the engine is cool before you start working*
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/header_install_tc/03.jpg


http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/header_install_tc/04.jpg
First Remove the (4) 12mm nuts holding the heat shield in place(Red)
Then using a 5.0 torx socket unscrew the stud(Yellow)


http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/header_install_tc/05.jpg
After removing the stud, move the heat shield away from the header and spray the (5) Header nuts and 02 sensor with WD40. (Use a good amount)
(Note: Doing this will make the new header smoke for about 10 minutes, if smoke continues for more then 10 minutes shut the car off at once and recheck your work)
Now let the nuts and 02 sensor soak in the WD40 for about 20 minutes.


http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/header_install_tc/06.jpg
While the 02 is soaking get under the car and using your 4"-6" extension remove the (2) 9/16th spring loaded bolts(Red).

Now in this picture you will see a black bracket that connects from the bottom of the header to a mounting point. There is two of these brackets one on each side of the header, both have one nut connecting them to the header. The nuts are 9/16ths(Purple) remove them as well.


http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/header_install_tc/07.jpg
The Right hand bracket (Closest to the passenger side) Will need its 2nd bolt removed. This bolt connects the bracket to its mounting point. Remove this bolt(Yellow) then remove the right hand bracket. (Bracket needs to be removed to slide the OEM header out)

http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/header_install_tc/08.jpg
Bracket gone ( Phat Pat making a weird face, Sorry )


http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/header_install_tc/09.jpg
Now remove the 12mm bolt(Red) from this mount, And the other 12mm bolt(Purple) Hidden Under the mount


http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/header_install_tc/10.jpg
If it has been 20 minutes or more head over to your o2 sensor with your Adjustable Wrench Or (15/16 Open Head Wrench) Give it one turn after that it should be loose enough to take it off with your hand. After this you can remove the heat shield completely.


http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/header_install_tc/11.jpg
Now unbolt the (5) 12mm nuts, The Nut in (BOLD RED) is a little stubborn. I had to use a 12mm Open Head Wrench with slight Hammer tapping. :D. Once you get the final bolt off, remove the header by sliding it out to the passenger's side and then pulling up, this will expose the old gasket.


http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/header_install_tc/12.jpg
Remove the old gasket. (If you are reusing the gasket do not remove it.


http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/header_install_tc/13.jpg
On the bottom of the OEM header you will see this Donut Gasket.


http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/header_install_tc/14.jpg
Remove it


http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/header_install_tc/15.jpg
And place it on the DC header.


http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/header_install_tc/16.jpg
Now with your new Gasket. (P/N 17173-28010)


http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/header_install_tc/17.jpg
Install it.

http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/header_install_tc/18.jpg


http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/header_install_tc/19.jpg
And set the header in place.


http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/header_install_tc/20.jpg
Now put your bolts on the studs and tighten them as they are numbered. Give each bolt about one turn and then move on to the next one. Repeat this until they are all tight. (20 foot pounds is the specs on these) I myself didnt have a Torque Wrench so I used Miko's "Its Tight" method just use your judgement. As for the number (4) Nut, I tightened it by hand and then used the Hammer Method once more to get it tight.

http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/header_install_tc/21.jpg

http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/header_install_tc/22.jpg

http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/header_install_tc/23.jpg
Now Place in your o2 sensor in the new header, Tighten it down with your wrench.


http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/header_install_tc/24.jpg
Now back under the car line up the header and put in your spring loaded bolts.
Tighten them down until the spring is fully compressed.

And your done!!!
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/header_install_tc/25.jpg

http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/header_install_tc/26.jpg

http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/header_install_tc/27.jpg

http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/header_install_tc/28.jpg


Review:
Instructions were good, they could be improved. (Maybe include better description on things) for the people who are new to Header Installs. Our total install time was about 2 hours this is because we heard the ALT needed to be dropped to get the last bolt out. We called Dennis from DC and left a message. He replied promptly and told me that Gahun (Sorry If I spelled that wrong) Would give us a call about this problem.

He called me ASAP but I missed the call. We played a little bit of phone tag trying to reach each other, I was about fed up with this damn bolt so we used a Open Head 12mm Wrench and a Hammer to tap is loose... Other then this small problem the install was pretty easy and straight forward.

After the install the header smoked for about 10 minutes this was due to the WD40, Grease, etc. The first test drive was performed with a Fireball Universal Tip w/ Silencer, At idle it gave a nice deep groan. Accelerating on the other hand sounded very raspy and high pitched like a Honda Civic on speed :silly: I think this is due to my muffler choice (Maybe I can get my hands on a DC system :love: ).


I removed the Silencer from the Muffler, And the tone became a lot deeper at idle but once again acceleration had that same High pitched Raspy sound, I did feel the car pull more at high speeds witch was awesome it felt very responsive. I will update this after 2 weeks and after a month to tell you how the tone has changed. All and all good product! Does Need better instructions for New Installers!

*Note* The DC Header is known to make the 'check engine' light pop on, But no worries for $3.00 at your local Autozone Or Pep Boys you can fix this.

You will need a set of Spark Plug Anti-Foul's they are 18mm HELP! brand Part#42002 or 42009.


http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/header_install_tc/29.jpg
You will need to drill out a 1/2" hole in one of the Anti-Foul's

http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/header_install_tc/30.jpg
Unbolt your 2nd O2 sensor *NOT THE ONE ON THE HEADER, THE ONE ON THE S PIPE*
(I would spray a little WD40 on this o2 as well before removing)


http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/header_install_tc/31.jpg
Now screw on the Anti-Foul with the 1/2" hole on top of the regular one and then screw it into the hole for the 02.


Screw the 02 into the Anti-Fouler's tighten everything up, Then disconnect the (-) Battery terminal for about 1 minute.

http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/header_install_tc/32.jpg
And BAM no CEL. :bow:

~ Kaeon

awsome post
:)

STICKY!!!!!!

I did this anti-fouler mod with the megan header and 60-70 miles later I have the CEL. :(

Very nice write up!

The spark plug anti fouler trick works great. I've gone over 3,000 on my car with this trick using the DC headers and I don't have a CEL yet. :)

The spark plug anti fouler trick works great. I've gone over 3,000 on my car with this trick using the DC headers and I don't have a CEL yet. :)

On the DC header, It works fine. They only people having problems is the Megan Header users, Either way There is a couple of S.Pipes coming out that "Claim" to fix that problem. Ill post info on it when I get it and try it out.

outstanding post

that rocks. nice writeup. now fix that muffler ;)

that rocks. nice writeup. now fix that muffler ;)

That is next, Been in contact with DC about there Exhaust hopefully it goes well with their header! :love: I will post as soon as/If I get it!

Later!

~ Kaeon

On the DC header, It works fine. They only people having problems is the Megan Header users, Either way There is a couple of S.Pipes coming out that "Claim" to fix that problem. Ill post info on it when I get it and try it out.

Any more info about that?

No, No info sorry, Im still in the works with trying to get the DC cat back system. If I do I will post some audio on how it sounds.

sure that'll be great, but im a car noob, can you explain how would the anti-foul work with the o2 sensor

sure that'll be great, but im a car noob, can you explain how would the anti-foul work with the o2 sensor


Rawr,

Im not a car professional myself, But Im pretty sure that the DC Header has to much flow for the stock 02 to handle, Im pretty sure that extending the 02 out a little bit by using the Anti Foulers, corrects the flow being supplied to the 02 therefore not throwing a CEL, Someone please correct me if im wrong. This is just my guess..

did DC give you that procedure for that fix? if so i can contact them and ask them, i am actually very interested in the DC header you put in your tC. so i don't mind calling them if i have to! plus i'll post the info when i get it

did DC give you that procedure for that fix? if so i can contact them and ask them, i am actually very interested in the DC header you put in your tC. so i don't mind calling them if i have to! plus i'll post the info when i get it

No DC did not tell me about this fix, As for the rest of your post I have no idea what your trying to say lol.. Sorry

Just an update - over 8,000 miles now with the anti-fouler trick with the DC header and no signs of a cell yet.

just a question for you guys... if I decide to finally put my DC header in... and then to go my dealer.. will they freak out seeing it in there and possibly void my warranty?

-Emo

i just did the non foulers trick with my 06 tc and it does not work. i have 4-1 DC sport race headers, i used non foulers HELP! part # 42002 AND 42009 and niether works, any help?

i just did the non foulers trick with my 06 tc and it does not work. i have 4-1 DC sport race headers, i used non foulers HELP! part # 42002 AND 42009 and niether works, any help?


Did you drill out the Top fouler to the proper size?. Did you reset the ECU? Did you check and make sure all your work is nice and tight? These details will help us assist you better..

yes i drilled it out to 1/2 inch, i turned the ignition on and disconnected the - terminal, and i tightened everything as tight as it will go, and this is the second time i tried it, first i used #42009, and it didnt work, so i bought #42002 and redid it, and it still does not work, i did it exactly as it was depicted

Im sorry I wish I knew what to tell you... It normally works for DC users only people I heard didnt work was the Megan header users...

so it is all suposed to be as tight as it will go then correct? is there anything else that will turn that cel off?

also would the fact that i tightened the hell out of the header bolts have any adverse effects< because i didnt have a torch rench so they are TIGHT.

did you use the mounting brackets and did you ever get the cel after the install

what mounting brackets

the factory mounting brackets the held the header to the bottom engine block

no are you supoed to use those? i didnt think that you could.

That is what everyone says or you will break the welds on the engine because of engine movement

This sucks. I installed the DC header in and did the Non-fouler trick and my CEL is till on in my 05 tc. I went over my work to make sure I did everything correct...
Is there something else that may work to get the CEL off?

i have another post, but i will try here as well. in the install i was told to use the anti fouler. i drilled them, but was i supposed to drill all the way through? like all the way through the bottom? i was told yes, i was just re-asssuring what was told to me. just drill all the way through one of them?

i have another post, but i will try here as well. in the install i was told to use the anti fouler. i drilled them, but was i supposed to drill all the way through? like all the way through the bottom? i was told yes, i was just re-asssuring what was told to me. just drill all the way through one of them?

There is two anti fouls in a package. You drill all the way threw one of them.

The spark plug anti fouler trick works great. I've gone over 3,000 on my car with this trick using the DC headers and I don't have a CEL yet. :)

yeah im new to all this, and i just wanted to know what CEL stands for

CEL = Check Engine Light

Would a custom exhaust shop be able to do all this for me? Im getting this header next Friday and dont really have the resources (especially a drill) to do this install so would they be able to do the anti-fouler trick if I told them about it?

Would a custom exhaust shop be able to do all this for me? Im getting this header next Friday and dont really have the resources (especially a drill) to do this install so would they be able to do the anti-fouler trick if I told them about it?


I don't see why not...

Wait, I have to use the stock mounting brackets? But where do they go? There are no bolts on the new header. ??? By the way I did the install myself and I didnt have to drill all the way through one of the anitfoulers to get the sensor through. So far no CEL and it sounds and performs great. By the way I hear a lot of air swooshing when I floor it, is that just the flow or is it bad?

Correct there is no place to mount the brackets to the new header...,

Why is everyone surprised that they get a CEL? I mean you are removing the primary emissions component of the car. There is an O2 sensor on either side of it to determine if it is working. Without it there, there is no difference in readings between the two sensors, and BAM...you get the check engine light. I also do not like that the primary O2 sensor is reading off of only one cylinder on these headers. This causes the engine to tune off of one cylinder. If all three other cylinders are bad, but one is good, the computer thinks all is well when really it is not. This could cause a lean or rich condition. Meh...I am a header hater until someone comes up with something better.

Thnaks Kaeon...used the FAQ during my alphawerks install yesterday and it really helped. Worst part of the install was getting off that last header nut behind the alternator. Turns out mine was right at the angle where I couldnt get a wrench on it. Ended up using a 12mm socket with a u-joint adapter so I could break it loose with a ratchet. After that it was a breeze. O2 sensor came out perfectly and also did the anti-fouler mod with no CEL. :relief:

Thanks again :bow:

Im very glad everything worked out for you!

nice i will def use this when installing my headers

thanks. great write up.

where did you guys find this socket? i went everywhere to look and i couldnt find it!!! i looked at car and tool places like lowes, pep boys, etc. let me know thanks!

What socket?

very nice write up bro

I read that the donut gasket is a non resuable part. kaeon says you can reuse it. What's with the discrepancy?

The spark plug anti fouler trick works great. I've gone over 3,000 on my car with this trick using the DC headers and I don't have a CEL yet. :)

On the DC header, It works fine. They only people having problems is the Megan Header users, Either way There is a couple of S.Pipes coming out that "Claim" to fix that problem. Ill post info on it when I get it and try it out.


Awsome post grest job good details :clap: :bow:

does any one know if the alphawerks headers have that problem and is it only on the s-pipe that you put that antifouler?

I have the AW with no CEL. Anti foulers go on the s-pipe only.

I read that the donut gasket is a non resuable part. kaeon says you can reuse it. What's with the discrepancy?

If you feel uncomfortable using the old donut gasket by all means get a new one.. I don't see how it wouldn't be reusable? but maybe it isn't I will check into it...

:eyebrow:

get new gaskets at the dealership.

my alphawerks header did not come with an anti-fouler fix...where can i possibly get one???PLEASE HELP!!!!

Kragen/Pep Boys have them. They are "help" brand spark plug anti foulers. Usually they will have their own comlete section. Buy two and drill one out ti 1/2 inch and install it onto the s-pipe...NOT ONTO THE HEADER. There are short and long versions of the anti fouler...it doesnt matter which ones you get.

Ok this may sound like a dumb question but reading all the other post it should be ok so what are you doing with the s pie o2 sernsor just leaving it hang and basicly plugging the hole with two plugs one with a 1/2 in hole drilled in it ok id you have a better detail pic post it and get back to me Laters :question: :crazy:

The S-pipe O2 sensor is screwed into the Anti foulers a which are screwed into the O2 bung on the S-pipe.

FYI you have ScionLife spelled incorrectly in your sig...unless you are trying to promote scioMlife. You also have "tctuners" website spelled wrong, but Im not going to post the correct address beacuse they have a history of scamming people and arent well received here.

ok well if you have a pic it would better discribe it for me , thanks fot the info with the web site info

Basically this picture shows it exactly except the O2 sensor would screw in to the silver part which is the anti fouler.

http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/header_install_tc/31.jpg

thats greats perfect but what about the zipi o2 spoof some one told me it's more reliable have you seen anyone talk about ti Thanks again

You can use that if you want, but Ive been using the ant-fouler trick for over 1000 miles with no CEL and it costs about $6. ZPI O2 sim is about $100. Its your money.

Instigator....did you use the brackets with your AW header....if not, does this post any future problems such as cracking because of constant moving......have you ever thought of using a flex joint??? or a damper? i guess?....

Im not using the brackets but I am running an engine damper which should keep any cracking from happening. One of my co-workers is a master welder so I can have him fix anything that may happen down the road.

Nice Write up...

used the anti-fouler method. i got the CEL in less then 30 miles. anything else i can do? everything has been double checked by me and 2 other friends.

hello i have a 2003 corolla S with DC sport headers and a catback system after the catalyst converter with the same CEL problem after the installation ,so I found this forum and did this little trick and bang worked in my car perfect .
I want to thank whoever post this information on this section for 4 uds$ i had my problem fixed.

hello i have a 2003 corolla S with DC sport headers and a catback system after the catalyst converter with the same CEL problem after the installation ,so I found this forum and did this little trick and bang worked in my car perfect .
I want to thank whoever post this information on this section for 4 uds$ i had my problem fixed.

Im glad this helped you!

yes man thanks for your help

I can't get the 5.0mm torx bolt off, what the ____ do i do? ____ I've tried using 3/16th" 12 point socket, and 7/32nd" 12 point socket, and even a regular 5mm socket, all i managed to do was strip the edges, any suggestions guys?

I can't get the 5.0mm torx bolt off, what the flip do i do? poop I've tried using 3/16th" 12 point socket, and 7/32nd" 12 point socket, and even a regular 5mm socket, all i managed to do was strip the edges, any suggestions guys?

Channel Locks

http://www.firstfives.org/faq/brakes/in-progress/7lw.jpg

Success, header installation was completed. Use'd the anti-fouler trick, had to go buy a 1/2" drill bit at wal-mart for around 8 bucks. Worked like a charm, no cel, and the header really awakens the engine.

Hardest part was probably unbolting the brackets to the header. It's a bit tricky, trying to get the proper leverage to unbolt the bolts in such a cramp place, but if you keep at it you'll get it.

how much power did u get?

how much power did u get?

The gains are there for sure. Noticiable as soon as you step on the gas pedal. I'd say the dyno on the dc header thats somewhere on this site is accurate. Definately more hp/torque across the powerband. Well worth the effort to install an AM header, I'm a believer that's for sure.

The changes I noticed when installing the aw header was mostly at higher rpms, but the car did also seem to rev up a bit quicker.

bbsciontc...did you use the brackets in the AW header?.....will cracking occur if we don't?

Ive had my AW header on for about 9 months with no brackets and have no cracks at all. I am using an engine damper which may help though

well i gave up trying to install my header today..im going to wait until i install the pullies, that last bolt is a pain in the asss to get out, and mine is now all tore up, talk about soft metal i used a offset 12mm open ended and it rounded the bolt......
i guess ill have to get a new one now, i think it definatley will be easier once the alternator is out of the way when im doing my pulley..

as a warning for anyone that's doing this....be careful.....a lot of the 9/16 bolts are actually 14mm......make sure you use a 6 point socket and make sure you're not rounding the bolts, especially the ones on the bracket

i guess ill have to get a new one now, i think it definatley will be easier once the alternator is out of the way when im doing my pulley..

I thought the same thing a small open head with hammer works wonders...

i tried it and for some reason i could not get it to stay at the base of the bolt, thus resulting in a rounded bolt.....

nice wrtie up. headers on... onto the cel problem....

good job..thanks

my install was Piece of Cake. It was just putting the stock manifold back on and welding the o2 sensor in the bung (stripped threads) that was the PITA! ;}

just a question for you guys... if I decide to finally put my DC header in... and then to go my dealer.. will they freak out seeing it in there and possibly void my warranty?

-Emo no i took mine to the shop they loved it, but be careful with the oxygen sensor mine was threaded wrong when they put it in cost me165.00 bucks!

nice wrtie up. headers on... onto the cel problem.... and then theres that pesky CEL problem. THe Dealer will NOT like that one..

tHE 18MM SPRK PLG FOUL TRICK DOES NOT WORK AND I HAVE DC SPORT HEADERS, CEL STILL ONNNNNNNNNNN!

Just FYI for people that got the MMW header, this DIY guide works great for it too!! Only thing is that since the header must be broken apart in order to get the bottom part to the S-Pipe, it becomes a bit more difficult. Take the MMW header apart, follow this guide all the way through, then install the new S-pipe, put some exhaust paste between the header pieces (it's supposed to be a slip fit, snugs the metal in high heat, but it may still leak without it) and slide the bottom half of the header in place, then attach the bottom part of the header to the new S-Pipe. Unfortunately, the MMW headers didn't have directions and we just had to figure this out as we went. I actually have to take the bottom part apart to put the paste on it, so better you know now.

WOW! this diy is very very good. props to kaeon*! nice

well did my install over the weekend, did it to the last T and drove around about 120 miles and BAM CEL came on. just one thing i need to know. when i did everything i never disconnected the battary at all. could this be my problem.

well did my install over the weekend, did it to the last T and drove around about 120 miles and BAM CEL came on. just one thing i need to know. when i did everything i never disconnected the battary at all. could this be my problem.

Very good chance it is. Even with the anti-fouler trick, or the part from MMW, your flow of air has vastly increased. By resetting the ECU, you kinda force it to learn a new F/A ratio based on the increased flow.

Just FYI for people that got the MMW header, this DIY guide works great for it too!! Only thing is that since the header must be broken apart in order to get the bottom part to the S-Pipe, it becomes a bit more difficult. Take the MMW header apart, follow this guide all the way through, then install the new S-pipe, put some exhaust paste between the header pieces (it's supposed to be a slip fit, snugs the metal in high heat, but it may still leak without it) and slide the bottom half of the header in place, then attach the bottom part of the header to the new S-Pipe. Unfortunately, the MMW headers didn't have directions and we just had to figure this out as we went. I actually have to take the bottom part apart to put the paste on it, so better you know now.

if your header slips on and off from each other this easily, then do it. when i did my mmw's though, they refused to come apart. called mmw and they said there's no need to take them apart, simply remove the radiator housing and if need be, pull back a few of the tranny fluid lines and you're good to go. worked for me.

if your header slips on and off from each other this easily, then do it. when i did my mmw's though, they refused to come apart. called mmw and they said there's no need to take them apart, simply remove the radiator housing and if need be, pull back a few of the tranny fluid lines and you're good to go. worked for me.

Ahhhh I wish I'd done that! Well, now I know for future tech days if people are installing this.

just went and had the code pull and it was BANK 1 below thresh hold

ok so we got some DC owners that say with the anitfouler that they get no cel light.
and we get some DC owners that DO GET the cel light..
after reading their cries for help it seems as if they all do the same work to fix the problem..

so here is my theory..and to make it valid it can only be applied to DC owners for accurate results...

-how many DC owners using the anit fouler method have a cat back exhaust system...

this is critical because obviously the cat back has less back pressure making for a less amount of volume of exhaust in the tubing. ...having no exhaust system and just having the header would have more compressed volume of gas in the tubing and there for the sensor sees more exhaust....

with this said....who with the DC header is getting the cel with and without and exhaust system...maybe that is a factor in the cel.

umm... i just installed my megan 4-1 header and right away i didnt get a CEL... i went to work and exactly 30 miles into driving my CEL came on... i sorta expected this so i was ready with the anti-fouler thing... just put that on and its sitting with the battery cable disconnected to reset the ECU right now... mostly i am just crossing my fingers that this works... :nails: so yeah i'll let everyone know how it turns out.

great post man thanx i just installed my DC Sport header and i drove around for a while and the CEL came on and i did this little anti fouler sim and it works great no CEL yet.

Kaeon what drill bit did you use? the one i'm using is a pos. Never buy a blumol bit.

posting to keep an eye on this. I just bought my dc headers and will be installing them soon. I have heard of people having a problem with removing the o2 but I have not read about that here... just the lower o2.

Ill have mine installed in a week, hopefully

The last 12mm bolt (top left as looking at it) holding my stock header in refuses to move. The hammer 'trick' has resulted in a slightly rounder bolt and a lot of cursing. Any tips for getting this sucker off? Thanks.

I just put in the antifouler today for my strup header (i had the same prob, drove approx 30 miles.. bam, CEL). I unplugged my batt for about 10 min (just cause i was doin other thigns) and now i dont have any CEL.. hopefully it sticks!!!

Ya i did the Antifouler and there has been no CEL for about 500 miles great post man thanks.

HEY! Driving a 06 tc, have everything in, headers, 02 sensors, and i drilled and have the anti fouler trick ready-
so how do you reset the ecu? I'm a bit worried that if i disconnect the battery wont i have to reprog at the dealer my radio, and wont my power windows and locks need to be reset?

I'm just wondering becuase i know i had problems b4 with my old car, that if you took the battery off you needed to get the code to turn your radio back on- can someone clarify? thanks!

u don't need code to turn your radio back on. To reset the window, just hole the window switch up for few seconds.

I have the DC header and when i first installed it along with an intake i received no CEL using the anti foul. After getting a cat back i still have no CEL and it's been about 4K miles.

If you have the antifoulers and are still throwing a cel here is a good (FREE if you still have the stock exhaust manifold) fix.
1. Knock the catalyst out of the manifold. It will come out in big chunks.
2. Take your two antifoulers apart.
3. Cut a piece of catalyst to fit in the antifouler. Be careful not to make it to thick or you will smash it when you screw the two antifoulers together.
4. Install back into car.
5. Reset check engine light.
6. No more cel.
**This modification is only necessary if you already have the antifoulers installed and are throwing a cel**

I have had to do this in a couple of different vehicles where the antifoulers did not work. I have yet to have any cels after doing this. I can not guarantee that it will work for everyone else but for the cost it is worth a try.

^^^
Anybody else try this? Sorry for being a noob, but why does this fix the problem?

i know what your saying. i have an 06 tc RS 2.0 and i'm still in question about getting the DC race headers. my local shop told me those are the only headers from that company that will ultimately fit in my car. sorry for being another noob but do you have to buy the 02 sensors to remove the CEL or does the car come stock with it and i can reuse em.

car comes stock with them and you re use them...

you would think after the r&d they put into the tc deader they would recomend you to use the foulers.they dont,so why would you suggest this.this would be a defective product line if this is a have to do to install there header.
i been using dc products for years on my old honda civics and they are true products.if they dont say to do thid then dont!!!!! plain and simple.(just assuming the dc header has too much flow for the stock o2 sensor is what it is.....a ssumption).

just my 2 cents.

Just used this for refference for my MMW install. Took me about 4 hours, but there were a couple speed bumps along the way (autozone visits...LoL) But I took it for a spin and no CEL...went about 20 miles only...so tomorrow we will see for sure.

Just an update on my status - I've got 17,000 miles with the DC header and the anti-fouler mod, still no CEL.

THE SOLUTION TO THE 12mm behind the alternator:

Get a rotary tool (dremel) and trim down the edge of the open end of a 12 mm craftsman wrench (cheap). It will fit easy so you can hammer tap the wrench to loosen the bolt just like the other four.

3-4 minutes with regular cut-off wheel against the wrench will do it. It will make plenty of sparks so cover your eyes.
Just put on an alpha works.

ok so we got some DC owners that say with the anitfouler that they get no cel light.
and we get some DC owners that DO GET the cel light..
after reading their cries for help it seems as if they all do the same work to fix the problem..

so here is my theory..and to make it valid it can only be applied to DC owners for accurate results...

-how many DC owners using the anit fouler method have a cat back exhaust system...

this is critical because obviously the cat back has less back pressure making for a less amount of volume of exhaust in the tubing. ...having no exhaust system and just having the header would have more compressed volume of gas in the tubing and there for the sensor sees more exhaust....

with this said....who with the DC header is getting the cel with and without and exhaust system...maybe that is a factor in the cel.

thats a sick ___ theory man, but i have a question for it, if your correct in this, would it matter if i had an axleback exhaust system or would i have to have the full catback?

Hey Guys i have the HP racing headers, but i have the "check" pop up, i will try the same trick of the DC headers i will let you know what happen...Ok.

Does anyone have an axleback setup with the DC sports header and new s-pipe? I have the TRD exhaust, Meagan S-Pipe, and DC header. It is super way loud and has a bad rasp at times. Need to get another one and would appreciate some feedback.
Also, this header is 4-1 and not a 4-2-1. DC must think that the lil divider plate in the collector constitutes a 4-2-1 setup. I find it hard to believe that the header is tuned properly for the 4-2-1 design. My low-end sucks after install.

I FIX THE RASPY SOUND USING A GREDDY EXHAUST... TRUST ME I DO NOT LIKE THE RASPY AND I'M HAPPY WITH THIS NEW SOUND THE ARE EXPENSIVE BUT IT'S WORK IF YOU WANT LOOK IN NIPPONPOWER.COM THEY HAVE GOOD PRICES THE NAME OF THE GUY IS RICHARD TOLD HIM LUIS OF THE SCION TC SILVER GIVE YOU THE NUMBER HE WILL GIVE YOU SOME DISCOUNT THEY NUMBER IS (305)8051321. KEEP ME POSTED.

I just installed the DC header in my tC... i did NOT use the anti-fouler method but got one drilled out anyway... To my surprise NO c.e.l. :clap: :clap: :clap: i did only drive a little bit so we will see when i drive futher... if you want to see pics they are in my profile

Soupy_TC What axle-back are ya running? How's the sound?

I have the TRD axle back... it is very LOUD.... i just got a c.e.l. and now i gotta try that anti fouler trick..

Great post. Very helpful . . .

Anti-fouler trick works. I have the same setup w/ Megan s-pipe (ZPI is better, Megan sits way too low). Yeah, the TRD was awesome b4 the header. Now it blows like the wind out of an elephant's arse.

i see from the pictures that the 2nd o2 sensor anti fouler works on stock s-pipe.
Im about to get the megan s-pipe, so my question is can the anti fouler be setup the same on way on the Megan s pipe like it is on the stock one?

thanks
-----------------------------------------------------------------

i did the anti fouler trick and it worked great... i actually driled one out 1/2 incs but then used both of them to make the O2 censor sit that much futher from the air flow...

thats the way to do it.

s0opa_tC
Don't get the Megan S-pipe. It is not designed very well. First it sits way too low. If your car is lowered, it will be a prob. I have smacked mine a few times. The other problem is the mounting flange to the mid-pipe does not fit. They have to send you a half inch thick flange that is heavy to make it sort of work. If ya want to look at it first hand, I am in Grapevine till Tuesday. You can e-mail me if ya wanna get a look. navylife59 at yahoo dot com

buy the invidia... WAY better in quality.. jscspeed is selling them on here. they're like $149 on their website.

Hey guys i just installed my DC headers everything is Fine but my car sounds like a DAMN CIVIC ON SPEED!!!!! i have an HKS Exhaust and INJEN Intake now i have the DC headers ANY HELP ON GETTING THAT NASTY RASPY NOISE OUT!!!!!????????? Thank you

Alright just to UPDATE this i installed a RESENATOR and that fixed everything back to the ORIGINAL my car sounds fine as hell, So if anybody has problems with there exhaust and you have only 1 resenator trow another one in and you will be perfect

Need to get a Magna Flow Resonator and high flow Metallic cat.

I don’t have a cat right now I have to get one later on also I haven’t put in that Anti Fouler thing my check engine light is still NOT on but I m expecting it to turn on but I passed more than 40 Miles and still nothing I’ll keep you posted.

resonator will do tha trick. Dont worry too much about the CEL but the 2 anti-fouldrs works great.

navylife59 The resonator worked PERFECTLY :clap: The check engine light just came on :) but just like you said I wont be worried next week I’ll put the anti fouler thing and that’s it, Now the only thing I need is an S-Pipe but after winter I’ll think about that. Do you know how much HP gains come out of the DC Headers and Injen Intake? I m just curious if anybody knows at all?

No, just what the manufacturers claim. What resonator did you run with?

Oh yeah, be wary of the Megan Racing s-pipe. It is no good. Sits too low, has poorly designed flange, and rusts. :tap: [/img]

For the resenator i just had it installed at my local muffler shop i dont know how big it is, but it looks its more than 20" but i m happy it worked out. Cause if it didnt i had to sell the headers :) I heard about the S-pipe too when time comes i'll look for something good.

Hey guys so i did the anti-foul's trick and it worked but then it came back on so i went back and re-did it and everything seems to be ok. The one question i have is the gas mileage is it supposed to suck w/ the headers or is it just me, becuase i have had people tell me it improves the gas mileage but i dont see any diffrence. Does anyone else have this problem?

Don't feel bad about the CEL man...the fix doesn't work for everyone...In fact, I dont even have a header, just the supercharger and I got the P0420 code as well this morning...so this car is just about on it's last straw with me. Brand new car and already with the loud rattles and now a CEL. I know I have a warranty and all, but it just shouldn't be this way. WRX anyone??

Haha, yea, when i got my car i drove it for 100 miles and next thing you know there was a crack in the block, and the funny thing is that the dealer thought that i was driving it too hard. Anyway i took it in and they had it in there for 3 weeks and put a new block in there and then it was as good as new but i have had sooo much trouble with it and again i just got the cel so i just got done fixing that for the 3rd time. Maybe it will work this time. I dont know.

lemon law.

Great how to. I was unable to remove the 12 mm bolt under the oem headers (the one circled in purple) but it didn't seem to hinder the stock header removal. I'm having trouble removing the O2 sensor on the s-pipe. The 15/16 wrench was rounding the nut so I stopped trying for the night. Will an adjustable wrench or different sized wrench work a little better?

you probably have a case of the cross-threaded O2 sensor. Prepare to buy a new one.

Soak it overnight in PB Blaster or load it up with WD40

No cross threading. Soaking in WD40 and using an adjustable wrench with a breaker bar did the trick. They must put midget gorillas to work tightening things on this car.

good to hear. I had to use my 4 foot breaker pipe on my wrench handle to get mine loose as well.

once the CEL comes on the only way to take it off is to take it back to the dealer right? or will the CEL go away after i put on the anti fouler? because i really dont want to have to put the stock headers back on and take it back to scion just because of some CEL. i already had to go back to scion about a month ago bcuz my damn MAFS got fried when i installed my injen CAI and i handled the MAFS really gently too.... :doh: (according to scion techs anywayz). And yes i did end up taking it off and putting back the stock intake before i took it back to scion. i ended up telling them i took out the MAFS for auto's class bcuz we were inspecting sensors, as an excuse so warranty would cover the bill. :relief:

for the megan racing set up, drill a hole thats 3/8 instead of 1/2, works fine for me. Anyone know s pipe doesnt hang so low? I got zpi and it scrapes sometimes and i banged it up on speed bumps and cat isnt lowered!!! When i lower it i wanna sontin to prevent my header from getting ripped of my engine or s pipe destroyed.

I want to install a header but no s-pipe or exaust. Everything is factory except when i install the header/

Is this poosible?


Ronnie

CEL = Check Engine Lighti thought you could shut that off just like when you change your oil. push and hold the trip button and turn the car on. Or is that the service light... is that something different together. i am doing a header install tomorrow wish me luck. First time for headers. Ive done exhaust and internals on domestics. this will be my first on an import. great write up. also did you end up having to drop the alt. to do this install?

Thnaks Kaeon...used the FAQ during my alphawerks install yesterday and it really helped. Worst part of the install was getting off that last header nut behind the alternator. Turns out mine was right at the angle where I couldnt get a wrench on it. Ended up using a 12mm socket with a u-joint adapter so I could break it loose with a ratchet. After that it was a breeze. O2 sensor came out perfectly and also did the anti-fouler mod with no CEL. :relief:

Thanks again :bow: has anyone had trouble with their o2 sensor. I have heard horror stories of some tc's coming with stripped o2 sensors.

what you're thinking of is the maintenance required light.... that's the mileage counter for the reminder for the oil change.
(and the screen needs to be on odo when you do that reset)

don't think you need to move the alt. during the install... but if it's in the way... ehh.. doesn't hurt to move it.

for the o2 sensor.... wd40 that alot and let soak before you remove.

good luck :)

yeah thnx. i just bought a 4-1 from ehh... actually i forget where they are from.. its japanese thats all i know.. number 1 racing headers or something they look exactly like DC sport headers but there not. i wish i had a camera there sitting on the floor next to me. i cant read the name on it they painted over it.

HP Award Winning Headers provide 15+ Horsepower Gains!

HP RACING Headers are available in chrome, ceramic and stainless applications. HP Headers are designed to provide maximum Horsepower and torque. Each header is inspected to insure perfect fitments and clean welds. All HP RACING Headers are dyno tested and backed up with one year warranty.


ok i found it.. well sort of.. this is the same idea.. this is hpracing headers. but not for the tc. here is the website to make things easier.

http://www.hpracing.com/index.phtml

http://www.k-series.com/Images/HP_header.jpg

So i tried to put the header in today.. big problems we had to make 5 trips to sonoco to borrow some tools from a friend so we could get the nut loose near the alternator. it was either that or drop the alt. and there was no way i was going to do that.. so we get all those nuts loose. take them off.. then find out we need a 1/2 inch drive socket rench and i only have 1/4inch.. wd40's it so much it was dripping still not budging.. any suggestions?

i noticed when i had to put the o2 sensor back in all the way i had to wait for the OEM header to get hot before i could screw it in all the way.. i got stuch on the two exhaust bolts and bracket bolts.. which suxs.. that was the only thing between me and a new header installed.

ok well apparently some one is going to let me borrow an impact wrench.. so i just need to by the deep socket for it.. half inch bit cordless. should work right?

impact wrench + O2 sensor = BAD

You will probably damage the sensor. Put a wrench on it and add a little pipe to the handle of the wrench if need be to add leverage.

impact wrench + O2 sensor = BAD

You will probably damage the sensor. Put a wrench on it and add a little pipe to the handle of the wrench if need be to add leverage.haha im not that stupid.. no i ment for the exhaust bolts.. the one that connects the header with the s pipe.

oh ok. LOL

Sorry man, you wouldn't believe what some people will do to their cars.

Good luck.

i know i have unfortionately been there and done that.. ^^

Ok so everything went in fine.. we bought some PB blaster which was a lot better than WD40 I suggest everyone buys a can of it. its only $4. It breaks free anything with rust no matter how long its been on there for. Put it this way it will melt through a styrofoam cup. So it took about 1hr and 10min accounting for 3 smoke breaks too.. so probly not even that long. so the header smoked for a little after it was put together, the cermaic coated headers started bubling but i dont care its not for show. its for heat shielding. So i drove it for 10 miles then i got a check engine light. so i guess i will be getting that fixed next. with the right tools this should take no longer than 45minutes to an hour. Its a little easier to jack the car up if you take the front passenger side wheel off too. It may have been a bad time to install it but its there to stay for now. My clutch is slipping in every gear now due to more torque. I would say i would be lucky if i gained 5hp. The company claims 15HP with just the headers. I guess i will not be able to tell you till i get my new spec clutch installed. Ill update later on.

If the "ceramic coating" is bubbling, then it is indeed not a ceramic coating. It is merely paint that is baking off. It will probably eventually rust. You could always get it coated with a jet-hot coating if you wanted.

yeah i know.. they say ceramic headers on the box.. and they certaily are not stanless steel.

oh well. Hopefully you like it, and you feel it was worth your investment.

maybe i should call the company up and complain?

not sure it would do any good, but you never know. I would give it a try.

awwww man. I rounded the nut above the alt pretty damn bad. Any suggestions wut i could do to take it off? Would a shop be able to do it even though it is hella rounded? :nails:

awwww man. I rounded the nut above the alt pretty damn bad. Any suggestions wut i could do to take it off? Would a shop be able to do it even though it is hella rounded? :nails:what i did was i used an ofset wrench and it comes off easly. here is what they loook like,
http://www.bosstoolsupply.com/productimages/homier/1031.jpg

thanks for the advice, but i just took it to my friends shop and he used some thing that looked kinda like an ice pick, placed it on where i rounded it and hit it with the hammer. he was able to take it off that way and it only took like 2 mins. But for the future, i think im gonna go check out those offset wrenches.

i found the rachet set that bends mulitple times to be most effective to get that bolt of near the alt.

HP Racing is sending me a free stainless steel header to replace my current one. for the same price... swaping them out.. i would say there was a large increase in power.. I managed to cook my tires the first time out.. but cooked my clutch as well.. so i ordered a stage one spec clutch. It sounds like the exhaust has opened up. But i still have a stock exhaust so on cold start ups the exhaust is slamming the baffles. it sounds like the muffler is going to explode. That S pipe looks like a B*itch to get off. Its tucked pretty far up there. It was ugly too.. it made me want to take it off.

I have a couple questions, has anyone found an exact fix for the CEL light coming on? I have tried all of these fixes that were listed on here and have had no success.

Would anything be accomplished if I replaced the S-pipe and remove the second cat?

Or has anyone tried moving the air/fuel sensor to the secondary O2S location and move the second O2S to a new location after the second cat?

The reason I ask is because the DTC that I was getting was saying there was a problem with the primary Air/ fuel sensor.

ok, so ive look up and down the pipe, and i still cant find the second o2 sensor. is it b/c its an auto tc??

its still on that pipe you connect to the header trust me. Its just way up there. i think its right at the bend up top.

I have a couple questions, has anyone found an exact fix for the CEL light coming on? I have tried all of these fixes that were listed on here and have had no success.

Would anything be accomplished if I replaced the S-pipe and remove the second cat?

Or has anyone tried moving the air/fuel sensor to the secondary O2S location and move the second O2S to a new location after the second cat?

The reason I ask is because the DTC that I was getting was saying there was a problem with the primary Air/ fuel sensor.

Which header do you have? I heard that the Megan people are having trouble... the worst is that I have a megan coming on the mail.

I have a couple questions, has anyone found an exact fix for the CEL light coming on? I have tried all of these fixes that were listed on here and have had no success.

Would anything be accomplished if I replaced the S-pipe and remove the second cat?

Or has anyone tried moving the air/fuel sensor to the secondary O2S location and move the second O2S to a new location after the second cat?

The reason I ask is because the DTC that I was getting was saying there was a problem with the primary Air/ fuel sensor.

Which header do you have? I heard that the Megan people are having trouble... the worst is that I have a megan coming on the mail. HP racing header has signifigant gains... i dynoed an extra 8-10hp with just the header.. they claim 15 hp additions but i have yet to see that.

if you dont want a cel take the led out,,,,

if you dont want a cel take the led out,,,, led out? that is ? more importantly where is that....

Ok, my megan just got here. I've seen suggestions to use a 3/8 drill instead of 1/2. I'll try the 3/8, if it doesn't work, I'll try 1/2. I'll leave an update here once I'm done.

Ps.: The exhaust is all stock OEM

OK i have looked everywhere, where is everyone getting their dc headers, and what price is the cheapest

Two quick questions. It seems obvious but no one has mentioned it yet. after you drill the 1/2 inch or 3/8 " hole do you have to thread the hole or is the 02 sensor pretty much self tapping? And also, what is this i hear about the 02 sensors being cross threaded from the factory? So they won't come off??

ok, I just got my dc sports header, i'm installing next week. I have a axel-back Magna Flow Dual exhaust set-up just to let everyone know. I went to a Local Auto-zone and asked about the spark plug anit-foul and they looked at me like i was stupid, and i felt stupid because they had no clue what i was talking about, lol. I saw the pic of the anti-foul and i looked in every row of vehicle appliances they had in auto-zone before i asked them about it. PLEASE TELL ME WHERE TO GET IT!!!!!!!

By the way, what is PB Blaster????? Where can i get it????? and my car is a automatic tran.

ok, I just got my dc sports header, i'm installing next week. I have a axel-back Magna Flow Dual exhaust set-up just to let everyone know. I went to a Local Auto-zone and asked about the spark plug anit-foul and they looked at me like i was stupid, and i felt stupid because they had no clue what i was talking about, lol. I saw the pic of the anti-foul and i looked in every row of vehicle appliances they had in auto-zone before i asked them about it. PLEASE TELL ME WHERE TO GET IT!!!!!!!

lol - I did the same thing and they looked at me the same way. By the way, I felt stupid too because I had no clue of what I was saying... plus, I was misspronouncing it with my brazilian accent... dang I felt stupid! Anyways, you can find at advance autoparts. I kept on asking and explaining, but when I got to the 4th guy he understood me.

ok, I just got my dc sports header, i'm installing next week. I have a axel-back Magna Flow Dual exhaust set-up just to let everyone know. I went to a Local Auto-zone and asked about the spark plug anit-foul and they looked at me like i was stupid, and i felt stupid because they had no clue what i was talking about, lol. I saw the pic of the anti-foul and i looked in every row of vehicle appliances they had in auto-zone before i asked them about it. PLEASE TELL ME WHERE TO GET IT!!!!!!!

You aren't stupid... however most of the people at Autozone have no clue...

nice thinking about buying the header.. also would this void scion warranty?

nice thinking about buying the header.. also would this void scion warranty?

I think it does void the warranty. However, the dealers haven't seen to care... I've seen a few posts of people saying that they take the car to the dealer after changing the headers and no one says anything.

nice thinking about buying the header.. also would this void scion warranty?

I think it does void the warranty. However, the dealers haven't seen to care... I've seen a few posts of people saying that they take the car to the dealer after changing the headers and no one says anything.

It's all about the Magnusson-Moss Warranty act... print a copy of it in your car and if they give you sh*t, pull it out...they will fix your car...

ok i was wondering because i want to them to install the trd supercharger and i want to change the headers first because if they install the S/C the headers are hard to get to.

ok i was wondering because i want to them to install the trd supercharger and i want to change the headers first because if they install the S/C the headers are hard to get to.

It's definitely a PIA to swap the headers with the S/C installed.. but I'd just put the headers on and not say anything, if they bring it up, then pull out a copy of the Magnusson-Moss act.. bam done..

lol

Ok, my megan just got here. I've seen suggestions to use a 3/8 drill instead of 1/2. I'll try the 3/8, if it doesn't work, I'll try 1/2. I'll leave an update here once I'm done.

Ps.: The exhaust is all stock OEM

AEM intake + Megan Header + stock exhaust = check engine light @ 40.9 miles. Tomorrow I'll try the anti foul with 3/8 drill...

By the way, what is PB Blaster????? Where can i get it????? and my car is a automatic tran.PB blaster is a acidic compound you spary on bolts and it loosens them 10X faster than WD-40. Its worth the 5$ for the can.. you can get it at benny's, auto-zone, pep boys. almost any automotive store.

for the megan racing set up, drill a hole thats 3/8 instead of 1/2, works fine for me.

I tried with the 3/8, but the sensor didn't even fit through it, so I had to go with the 1/2. I hope it works... :pray:

Update:

AEM intake + Megan Header + Stock Exhaust + Anti-foul with 1/2 hole = NO CEL YET (110 miles). I hope it stays like that.... :pray:

As for the instructions, great job! It works fine for the Megan header as well.

185.4 miles and I just got the CEL. :( Anyone has a suggestion? I haven't had the time to search yet (I'm on the road), but if anyone knows a thread with a solution for the CEL with Megan header, please post the link (I appreciate in advance). Otherwise I'll search later.

You removed a catalytic converter, the O2 is sending a Deficiency Code. You'll need to get an O2 Simulator from either www.summitracing.com or www.o2simulator.com
Steve@meganracing.com


Havent got one yet

That's what Megan told me. I'm trying to find a less "costly" way to get around it, since the simulator is slightly expensive... thanks though.

I have just installed my Megan header in my flower garden as a waterfall distrobution system... And i didnt have to relocate my o2 sensor either.



There is no such thing as "too late" this is why they invented "death"

DC Sports header with 3 non foulers, half inch hole in one and no problems yet. I will keep you up to date.

DC Sports header with 3 non foulers, half inch hole in one and no problems yet. I will keep you up to date.

3 antifoulers? I'll try that one... thanks. By the way, for how many miles so far?

only 200 miles so far, so it's still up in the air, i'll see if it lasts the whole tank of gas

only 200 miles so far, so it's still up in the air, i'll see if it lasts the whole tank of gas

With the 2 antifoulers, my light came up with 180 on the first try and with 170 on the second try. I hope this works, so let me know if you can pass the 500 miles mark.

Also, anyone looking for the solution for the CEL after the instalation of header should refer to the thread bellow... they have almost the same info as here, but I guess that they are dedicated to the CEL only (more likelly to get updates, I guess).

http://www.scionlife.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=101069&postdays=0&postorder=asc&&start=40

only 200 miles so far, so it's still up in the air, i'll see if it lasts the whole tank of gas

With the 2 antifoulers, my light came up with 180 on the first try and with 170 on the second try. I hope this works, so let me know if you can pass the 500 miles mark.

Just passed 500 and still no CEL!!!!

Go figure... I reset my ECU for the 3rd time, but this time I have 400 miles and no CEL. I hope it stays like that...

Update: Tadáááá! CEL at 460 miles. Got a reading of the computer - "P0420 - Emission bellow [something]." I guess I'll try to drill the small hole on the anti-foul.

Sheesus I can't get that O2 sensor on the stock header off. I've almost stripped it. :( So I just gave up, tightened everything back up and let it be.

I might have to save up and just buy a new O2 sensor so I can plug and play that one on the new header. Because all the PB Blaster, WD40, and SeaFoam lubricant in the world isn't gonna un-round those corners on that nut. :cry:

Sheesus I can't get that O2 sensor on the stock header off. I've almost stripped it. :( So I just gave up, tightened everything back up and let it be.

I might have to save up and just buy a new O2 sensor so I can plug and play that one on the new header. Because all the PB Blaster, WD40, and SeaFoam lubricant in the world isn't gonna un-round those corners on that nut. :cry:

Did you try to use a longer wrench?

i ahd to buy a new 02 sensor but its ok, my CEL never came off and im thinking about getting the anit-fouler. but over all i'm happy with the header

you know what is really messed up, i just found the anti-fouler in pep boys after i have asked around about it a million times and nobody knew anything about what i was saying or looking for and i was looking dum, but now, my header is already installed on my car w/ a high flow cat, and i paid $200 for the install. But that's ok, cuz i just save a bunch of money on my car insurance by switching to Gieco. lol

I took my header off to do some experimentation and noticed that my O2 sensor is covered with a bright red residue, and so is the whole inside of my header, any thoughts on what this could be, or what caused it?? My header has only been on for about a week or two

for people having problems with taking the o2 off the header or s-pipe use a vice grip worked for me and i didn't even mess any of the threads up. oh and keep spraying wd-40 as you keep turning

I took my header off to do some experimentation and noticed that my O2 sensor is covered with a bright red residue, and so is the whole inside of my header, any thoughts on what this could be, or what caused it?? My header has only been on for about a week or two

Do any other I/H/E work the last two weeks, besides the DC header? Put on new exhaust manifold gasket or re-use old one? Use anti-sieze on your A/F sensor threads?

yeah i reused the gasket, but didn't use any kind of product. I just pulled it off and put it back on. No other work done

im kinda getting worried about getting the DCSport because every is saying it sounds like poop with the stock exhaust setup. i have the draxas spipe and thats it. will it sound like crap with the stock exhaust and stock midpipe? and how will it sound with the stock midpipe and the precision muffler axelback

i just installed my dc headers i bought from someone in sl and install was a breeze .. its been a week n no cel hopefully .. i used a vice grip on my o2 sensors with no wd40 and it came out easy .. only problem was wen i was tighting the bolt to connect the spipe to the header the bolt broke n half was stuck in the header so i had 2 take everything apart to drill out the bolt n use bolts from home depot lolz ... but everything sounds good .. i have the dc sports exhaust n invidia s pipe n megan midpipe .. and i think it sounds nice n aggressive

Am I correct in thinking that its not possible to pass emissions with the headers on?

Am I correct in thinking that its not possible to pass emissions with the headers on?

If you mean the header (singular) sorry :P , Then no, you can still pass, but you have to successfully keep the CEL off. Whether it be anti foulers or whatever else you can rig up.

i thought that by eliminating the primary cat that you can't pass emmissions even w/ cel fix??

You're not eliminating the primary cat though, Technically it's called the PRE-cat by Toyota. The primary cat is under the car and it stays there.

hmm i thought it was the other way around so confusing...it was already weird enough to find out that our car has two cats....

Oh snap!... I just realized you're in Cali. Laws there are tighter that a nun's cun+. Here in PA it will pass with no problems. I even asked my mechanic before i did it. Also, It's definately the pre cat on the stock header and the primary cat on the midpipe area. I know for a fact because mine went bad a couple months ago and they replaced it under warranty but my work order said

Problem: Bad pre-cat... Melted honeycombs

Work done: Replace exhaust manifold

Problem: Bad pre-cat... Melted honeycombs
Work done: Replace exhaust manifold

Did you have your manifold wrapped when this happened?

aww, man , i had the guyz that did my exhaust put my header in and take off the primary cat before the resonator and put a high flow cat in place of it.

^^ You say that like it's a bad thing. (lol) Don't know if it's true of the tC's cats - haven't seen any backpressure tests on ours - but many OE cats are very restrictive. Chances are you have a little more HP now with header + new hi-flow cat over adding just the header.

Problem: Bad pre-cat... Melted honeycombs
Work done: Replace exhaust manifold

Did you have your manifold wrapped when this happened?

Yes, stupid on my part but i broke the wrap off before i took it in. And yes i had to break it off. It got soo hot that it turned to glass and shattered when i tapped on it.

^^You've had some real adventures with manifold & header! :) (Been following your other thread with the red residue also.)

Wanted the Alphawerks header, but it's not available anymore so have DC Sports on order. Do like the fact that it's ceramic coated inside and out, so no need for wrap. Plus should help the main cat warm up faster and stay hotter than it would with a SS header.

^^ Haha yeah i definately have. One thing you need to know is that you will probably do a bunch of exhaust work to get rid of that god awful rasp and get the tone you want. I have a part on order that i will discuss once i have it installed to see if it works. But supposedly it has been getting unbelievable reviews from customers, and i read that on a forum that had no affiliation to the company whatsoever!! I can't wait.

^^ Good deal. Yeah I know I will have to upgrade my exhaust. Still working out the details but will at least replace the stock muffler even before I install the DC header. Then put on the header, see how it sounds, and if necessary upgrade the midpipe - bigger resonator & hi-flow cat.

Interested to know what you've got in the works :ponder: Hope it works out for you and puts an end to your header dilemma!

you should put on the header w/ stock exhaust and see how it sounds it actually sounds pretty nice :P

^^ I have that... sounds like I'm driving a canned-exhaust... lol. I like though, simply because it's pretty quite with low trottle.

hey does anyone in here know how much it would cost to drop all my resonators and just have a free flow stock muffler. i know it would obviously make sense to get a full exhaust while i am at that point under the car. But i am not sure i can fully invest that kind of money one a full exhaust with no restrictions.

you should put on the header w/ stock exhaust and see how it sounds it actually sounds pretty nice :P

it sounds like the baffels in the stock muffler are going to blow appart you know that raspy sound i am talking about when you first start the car when its cold. then rev it a little. you hear that noise that sounds like rattling from the rear exhaust. I was told its hitting the internal baffles and thats what makes the noise. I will say this. When i had my cermaic headers i felt a better torque increase than with my stainless steel headers which are currently installed.

is anyone planning on buying a high flow intake manifold from skunk? or a bigger throttle body?

hey does anyone in here know how much it would cost to drop all my resonators and just have a free flow stock muffler.

You can search around - there's a lot of exhaust threads that cover this - but the short answer is don't do this. The stock midpipe has a cat and a resonator, and they both help remove rasp - especially the resonator. If you're trying to get rid of rasp - and you're keeping the header and the stock muffler - you need a BIGGER resonator, or add a second smaller resonator.

it sounds like the baffels in the stock muffler are going to blow appart you know that raspy sound i am talking about when you first start the car when its cold. then rev it a little. you hear that noise that sounds like rattling from the rear exhaust.


:rofl: Just like that! I can see the day that Ill floor above 5,000 and my stock exhaust will be falling on behind me... that's what it sounds like. But after it warms up, it's not so bad (let me emphasise the not "so" bad).

i agree its still there. I am running a stage 2 clutch so needless to say when i want to use the power its there right away. and so is that noise. even in no gear i can hear it.

Does the Anti fouler trick work on the ALphawerks header??? IF anyone know just please PM me!! thanks for any help guys!!

yeah speaking of anto fouler does anyone want to sell me a pre drilled one? PM me

yeah it works with alphawerks also

Here is a great idea for any of you having troubles with O2 sensors. After i got th invidia s-pipe my O2 bung was just a hair too low for the sensor and anti-foulers to fit. So i went to Home depot and got a gas line "street" style elbow connector. (Pic 1) I had to do some fab work to make it fit, but the end product is perfect. I had to drill the female end out with a 11/16 bit and a 18mm/6 tap and die kit. The problem i had was that the sensor and anti foulers stuck out too far that they hit the K-member??? and Rattled like a B!tch. Even so bad that it would work it's way out of the threads and jiggle loose. I tried to use Dynamat to kill the rattle but it didn't work at all. You can see the dynamat in the pics to get an idea of where it was hitting. All is nice and tight and quiet now. Still no CEL.

Pic 1
http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k33/tCizzler/Photo027.jpg

http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k33/tCizzler/Photo0030.jpg

http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k33/tCizzler/Photo028.jpg

http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k33/tCizzler/Photo0031.jpg

that is pretty crazy looking.....the invidia o2 bung is not located where the oem is??

Pretty damn close, but it may have something to do with the bigger pipe, 2.5" compared to 2.25". Or maybe they are hand built and can be slightly irregular when compared

Do you think I need a new gasket when I put on my header?

Do you think I need a new gasket when I put on my header?

you shouldn't

I wouldn't take the risk though... you shouldn't, but you can't see if you do need one. It's less than $20d

I don't see much "risk",it IS a reusable gasket, but yeah for only $30 for a new gasket ($29.20) Why not just slap a new one on. Unless you're that strapped for cash, in which case you probably shouldn't have bought the header, haha.

Kall, i'm guessing the price depends on where you live. But it's still not too expensive

^^ Agreed...

I wouldn't take the risk though... you shouldn't, but you can't see if you do need one. It's less than $20d

Toyota Dealer charged me $43 for the gasket. :tap: :tap:

^^^^ Wow!!! You are better off buying from FL and having it shipped!!! :p I never had to buy it, but I called and asked for the price. Now you made me think if the price I got was from the dealer or a local advance auto parts...

My header came in today, Any way to take out the torx stud without the Female TORX Socket? YELLOW CIRCLE
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/header_install_tc/03.jpg


I don't want to spend $70 on a set

ummmm..... homedepot.....$10........attachment for socket wrench....

i freaking rounded the stud, Do I have to removed that stud? i am going to cut that heat shield tomorrow morning.

i kinda bended the shield a little to get it out......i didn't have the tool either

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a156/gammatnt/car%20stuff2/heatshield.jpg
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a156/gammatnt/car%20stuff2/heatshield2.jpg


i cutted the heat shield. My header is in, Going to install the S pipe next week.