I just installed the Progress Rear AntiSway Bar. here's some pictures and the basic steps involved. On a difficulty scale of 1-10, Id say its a 3. Please follow all safety precautions when working on any car. Use this guide at your own risk.

Here's what you get. 22mm swaybar and assorted hardware:
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/swaybar_rear_xb/progress1.jpg

Some shots to give you an idea of the size. That's a "C" battery and a quarter used for comparison:
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/swaybar_rear_xb/progress2.jpg
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/swaybar_rear_xb/progress3.jpg

Step 1 - With engine off, Put vehicle in gear, set brake. Chock the front wheels:
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/swaybar_rear_xb/progress4.jpg

Jack up the vehicle and use jack stands to secure it safely. NEVER work under a car supported only by a jack. Remove rear wheels.
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/swaybar_rear_xb/progress5.jpg

Position bar in place under vehicle. I used a box to raise it up so I wasn't trying to support the weight of the bar. Insert a bolt with washer through the rear holes in the swaybar and use another washer and the nut on the top. Finger tighten only at this point:
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/swaybar_rear_xb/progress6.jpg

Insert the other bolts with a washer into the forward holes. Stick the flange nuts into the ends as shown in the pic below and thread the bolts into the flange nuts. (This was the hardest part of the installation. It is hard to see inside, depth perception is off and you just have to feel for the threads to catch. I used my box that I had propped it up on originally and a towel to push it into place while I dealt with the nut and bolt)
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/swaybar_rear_xb/progress7.jpg

Tighten the bolts (torque specs are on the instruction sheet)
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/swaybar_rear_xb/progress8.jpg

Put your wheels back on, lower the vehicle. Once it has settled its weight, recheck the bolts. Recheck the bolts again after a day or two and add it to your routine maintenance and inspection. Here's how it looks when its done:
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/swaybar_rear_xb/progress9.jpg

Here's how it looks from the outside (assuming you can see through your wheels like I can):
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/swaybar_rear_xb/progressdone.jpg


I would estimate this install to take between 15 - 60 minutes, depending on your skill level and tool inventory.

I am very pleased with the feel of this mod. I won't try to explain the differences or advantages it provides, I'll leave that to the more knowledgable and eloquent,

Please let me know if you have any questions, comments or if I made any errors.

Thanks,

TSM

Nice write-up/how-to w/ pics Mark! Maybe this should be a FAQ!?!

Thanks for the write up. Where did you buy yours? Link to website?

Seems pretty easy... I heard the FRONT swaybar is drama!
How much was it BTW?

-THE DON

Thanks Brad, I submitted it to the Tech/FAQs. It'll probably be added soon.

Here's the thread where I got it:
http://www.scionlife.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=56990

Partshippers.com gave great service and the part came rather quickly. They even sent me an apology email because they hadn't gotten a tracking # to me. It had only been like 2-3 days, I wasn't worried about tracking it even. Communication is the key to good business especially on internet sales and these guys have their act together. I would highly recommend them. Plus, you can't beat that price...

one question..when i did my springs.. (skill lever -5) i didn't see a spot where to put the jack stands on the rear. i would need to know where.
somebody pm how to install the dual halos..
thank you have a nice day

I popped this on this morning. I put my jack stands immediately in front of the rear tires on a beam I knew to be part of the body. That worked pretty well.

Make sure you have a wrench, not just a socket but a wrench, for the nut in that little area. A socket wrench won't fit. You'll need a 17mm or 3/4" wrench. It may appear you can put this on and leave the wheels on, but chances are that's not the case.

Nice write up. Helped a lot. Thanks.

TheScionicMan, where did you submit it to? *scratches head*

I added it to the tech section. This thread will be moved to the FAQ section in a week or so.

Mark even included a pic of the box of his next mod!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v250/thescionicman/Progress/progress6.jpg

TheScionicMan, where did you submit it to? *scratches head*


I used the warn button...

The Fuji should put his jack stands right behind the jack point on the frame rail. I know it's not really a frame, but the unibody equivalent to it... My jackstands have a groove in the moddle and they fit right over the body seam there. I'll try to get a pic if that's not clear.

haha, Brad, I knew someone was going to say something about that... It's just a bag of ICE to keep the kids distracted. It's hardly show-worthy, although I have been brainstorming a little... but it's gotta be able to be moved to the van...

nice write up dude! i want to get one of these bars now, i like how it bolts right on to the axle thing without needing bushings.

also dude, did u install the LCD monitor yourself? im having trouble doing mine, PM me if u can help please :)

thanks mark that will help alot. pics would help better..but i have an idea now so its all good.

I took a pic for you Fuji, bit its still on my camera...

I like how it's a simple easily reversible install. I know Progress designed it to use existing holes, but it is just another example of how these cars seem like Unfinished Furniture to me - you can just buy them and use them as is or you can add a few extra touches to suit your needs.

I did install the LCD myself. There's a strap that goes around each headrest and the bag hangs in the middle. Plug in the cig lighter plug and hand the kids their headphones... It's just a portable system I bought at Fry's. :wink:
I probably wouldn't be a good source for info on ICE, since I haven't done any yet. Try the ICE forum, I'm sure someone will have all the answers you seek.

lol ok, i got a thread up over there:

http://www.scionlife.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=724538#724538

i wish my setup was that easy lol :(

no prob mark..tommorow im hooking up with another SL and he is going to help me install my dual halos ill tell him about the sway bar as well.

Since the front suspension is connected to the firewall, is this the most cost effective suspension mod?? How's the performance on the car after only the rear bar is installed? Yes, I am riding around on a stock suspension :loser: , but I would really like to hit those corners hard without rocking side to side in my car. I know stiffer springs could alleviate this problem, but I need a SMOOTH ride. I live in LA, and the darn freeways are HELL :nope: !!! Anyway, GREAT write up :bow: :clap: . I just had to order the part after I read your write up!!! Just gimmie some opinions on your improved handling post rear sway bar instillation :pray: plz.

RESPECK BRUDDAH!!!

Since the front suspension is connected to the firewall, is this the most cost effective suspension mod?? How's the performance on the car after only the rear bar is installed?

I don't know what the difference would be in a tC, but in the box it's quite dramatic. No body roll at all. This is a must-have mod for an xB.

TheScionicMan, where did you submit it to? *scratches head*


I used the warn button....
lol, goes to show how much I pay attention to that mod "feature"... :yawn:

when using jack stands, or a jack for that matter, use teh seam just behind the side skirt, you should see mine, all folded and horrid looking, b/c of all the different wheels and test fits from working at you know where, thats the point i would use....but what do i know, ive never jacked upa car before, used air tools, or evena torque wrench for that matter

brent

anti sway bar installed.. felt stomach sick and on the way home all i wanted to take some medicine.. so i have no idea if it made a diff or not. the install was easy..Justin helped me install it.
ill do some crazy driving by this weekend so i'll see the difference.

let us know.

I swear I can feel the difference in stiffness when i back out of my driveway at an angle.

I'm totally lookin' at the Progress by myself. Thanks for
the cool writeup!! Photos are killer too!

I was inspired....Just ordered the progress rear bar for my xB....

does it come any any other colors. like red?

Gabe can you send a link ti that tire shop.my scion is being dropped at your shop today at percionmufflers,or can some one out there point in the rifgt deriction.thanks :eyebrow:

imma paint mine red..

mini review..

YES it works.. it has yet to be fully tested.

but on the curved ramps its easier to handle and switching lanes at high speeds on the free ways is so nice.

before it would "rock" on a sudden lane change..now its a different feel..hard to explain.

fuji tested, fuji approved.

does it come any any other colors. like red?

No, but they say it can easily be painted, there's a pic of one on the sale thread...

yeah i will probally have it powder coated just to ensure its more durable.

Don't paint yours red. The Hotchkis sway bars already come red. They are also easier to install. I just put one on this morning and it took about 10 minutes. Handles much better. I love it.

OK, so let me recap. Get the Hotchkis bar. It's cheaper (I got front AND rear sway bars on eBay shipped for $160). They are red (nice quality paint). Easier to install (due to placing the bolts down through the holes rather than up through them). And it handles just as nice as the progress bar due to the fact that its the same size.

Got it?

Good.

:)

Sorry to hijack, but I thought these folks needed to know there is a better way...

Don't paint yours red. The Hotchkis sway bars already come red. They are also easier to install. I just put one on this morning and it took about 10 minutes. Handles much better. I love it.

OK, so let me recap. Get the Hotchkis bar. It's cheaper (I got front AND rear sway bars on eBay shipped for $160). They are red (nice quality paint). Easier to install (due to placing the bolts down through the holes rather than up through them). And it handles just as nice as the progress bar due to the fact that its the same size.

Got it?

Good.

:)

So, it's better because you bought them or have you actually tried both? This is a tutorial on how to install this one, if you want to debate the bars go to the Sway bar 101 thread or start one...

It's not even close to the same size. The Hotchkis is like 12mm and the Progress is 22mm. That's close to a half inch difference. Let's not spread mis-information.

Just for the record, here's a comment from someone who has tried both:

...I have/had the Hotchkis "sway bar" set-up on my xB and replaced the rear axle beam stiffner w/ the Progress bar. It greatly reduce understeer, and the Progress bar is ALOT beefier.

I can bend the Hotchkis rear axle beam "stiffner" with my bare hands and I have only 20 lbs of grip strength in my right hand! There is no way that piece is reducing any amount of understeer! And I had one of the first sets to come out. They were on my car way before Exposed of Feb2004.
...

if squirrel says its better.. do not doubt it..

2nd.

sen-

received my bar yesterday... have yet to have weather worthy enough to try and install...

Why did you have to take off your rear wheels? :eyebrow:

my box came torn open at the top =\

hopefully nothing is missing.. have yet to open it still... :nails:

sen-

mine only came with 4 washers... I see in the pic yours came with 6... I hope thats not bad. Anyone else get only 4? ::nervous::

You probably only need washers on the nut side, I would think. But I don't know for sure. You could always pick a couple up at the hardware store.

I took the wheels off because it's easier to work that way and the instruction suggested it also. I wasn't trying to break any speed records and wasn't getting paid to do it and I was taking pictures and such. It could easily be installed without removing the wheels, if you like to wriggle around underneath a car, I don't. Heck. I could just work thru my wheels but I worry about hitting them with a tool or something...

I had to take one of my rear wheels off. I couldn't fit a socket wrench in one of the holes because of the strut bolt thing, and the angle wasn't good for me to wiggle a wrench in the hole on one side. I succeeded on the other.

The best part? I can accelerate while twisting around those curvy on-ramps so I am actually with the flow of traffic at the end, without rolling over and without busting 3000 RPM.

Its easy enuff to install, and yes, taking the rear tires and wheels off makes it alot easier and faster.

Is the Progress Tech bar an improvement over the Hotchkis bar? YES.

You can take my word on it, and save yourself some hard earned cash, or you can do what I did and buy both.

If the Progress bar would have been out at the same time, I wouldn't have bought the Hotchkis set.

I'm just trying to give some worthwile advice and save some peeps money and not wasting it like I do.

Just by looking at a picture, you can tell the Progress bar is bigger. Look at the mounting points betweeen the two...

I knew I should have taken a pic bending the Hotchkis bar.

well the pixx are gonne?

I still see them and they're hosted on photobucket. Might be an issue with your local PC.

gonna do a little nit pickin :silly: looks like your tires could stand a little air in 'em :wink:

Whatever. I sure as hell have a lot more grip strength than 40 pounds and I could not bend it. I remember those posts about being able to bent the Hotchkis, so I tried myself when it arrived. Perhaps Hotchkis has improved their product since their initial offering. All I know is that the handling is greatly improved and that installation is easier with Hotchkis.

This is a great write-up! I can't wait to try this install myself.

Incoming silly question!! Does taking the wheels off just make bolting the thing on less of a pain? It looks like the wheels can be left on for the install. Unless I'm missing something obvious here, which wouldn't surprise me. :loser:

I'm a moron that didn't realize there was a second page. Questions answered. :doh: Thanks anyways for the write up.

TheScionicMan

looking at your first post, i noticed that it looks to me like your rear springs are upside down... at least from what i know, the close coils are supposed to be at the bottom of progressive rate springs right?

this pic:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v250/thescionicman/Progress/progress9.jpg

so, did LIP put his in upside down too?

http://img46.exs.cx/img46/1240/scionprogressivebar.jpg

I have faith in my installer, I think they're right.

i guess progress made their springs to go in upside down, i didn't know. What i do know is that Tanabe's, MeganRacing, Eibach, HKS SF, etc. all sit in their the exact opposite way

Your pics had me wondering if i had MINE upside down > <

thanks for clarifying it tho

I just installed my progress tech rear sway bar. I took it for a quick run and my oh my! When I take the turns, the rear feels so planted to the ground!

The install took a little under an hour. I was alone, so I used boxes and another jack to help lift/align the bar. I did not even have to take my wheels off. If you have aftermarket rims, I suggest you take them off though...to prevent scratching. The "Pain in the AsH" Award goes to... the flag nuts! I had one hand "control" the flag bolt while I used my other hand to feel for the nut through the bolt...if you can understand that.

I just threw one of these on as well. Again, great write up. It helped. The alignment of the nut were a pain, but other than that the install was simple. I notice a difference in the roll now, heavily reduced.

ordered a bar also will tell you guys what i think

I just sold my hotchkis set b4 i even put them on my car. the thickness HAS TO make a dffrence. i am odering my prog rear today.

Just completed the installation on my xB. I ran the car up on ramps, and left the wheels on. But getting the open-end wrench on the nuts inside the tubes was mucho tricky, and I scratched an aluminum rim on the driver's side doing it. If I had it to do all over again, I'd take the wheels off.

One note that seems to be missing in the instructions: you'll need a 17mm socket wrench and a 17mm open-end wrench to do this.

There were a few frustrations getting the fasteners to line up, but overall it went okay. The instructions in the Progress box were barely adequate, with one photo that doesn't show much. On the other hand, this Tech article helped a lot, because I knew what it would look like before I ever started.

Easy project -- under an hour, including cleanup and the test drive.

Strangest thing.......I put mine on today and the flag nuts that came with it had two nuts in each as apposed to one like in the pic at the beginning of this thread. I didn't realize it until i had already got the rear nuts and bolts in. So i zip tied the bar in place and removed them. Then i just used the flag nuts. That cost me about an hour. Am i insane or did Progress start making their flag nuts with two instead of one?

Assuming a standard suspension on an xB, how much harder is the ride after installing a rear sway bar. I'm not asking about the handling, just the ride.

I have standard suspension -- no lowering -- and I haven't noticed any difference in ride with the Progress bar.

I really haven't noticed a great improvement in handling from adding the bar, but I don't corner the xB real hard, and I already had 7"-wide tires.

There may be a reduction in body roll, but I can't define how much. It still leans a little in the corners, but it feels very stable, and that's exactly what I wanted. The xB'ers who are pushing the corners hard may feel the changes much more, and thus have even more positive results.

I've driven with the bar for several weeks, now. Overall, the seat of my pants likes it.

There will be no difference in ride. the bar simply restricts roll.

The late model progress bar kits have the flags w/ 2 attached nuts- at least mine did. They're a good thing. Also included some extra hardware, apparently just to keep us guessing. This is a part that's working all the time, so proper torque on the bolts is a must. I used loctite blue on the threads, as well- it definitely won't work loose over time.

Even if you drive conservatively, it'll improve emergency handling tremendously with no noticeable effect on ride quality. You'll never know it's there until you make a sharp cornering maneuver.

Thanks for the feedback. I will install one ASAP. The Toyota-Scion dealer about 45 minutes from my home advertises a 22mmTRD bar for $169.50. There are some for sale for less, but this sounds good to me.

So, do these actually attach to the unibody somewhere or is it mainly to stiffen up the trailing beam?

Would there be any benefit to a bar that attached to the unibody in such a way that it still allowed "up and down" motion of the axle but did a better job of preventing "twist"?

There would be no need for it to connect to the car other than on the trailing arms. After driving mine I think there would be little that you could do to make the car ride flatter. I have TRD springs and the Progress sway bar along with the OTG rear spacer shims. The combination really makes a difference.

The GT Spec 4-point brace helped tighten things up as well.

Some guys are using the TRD rear brace for the ECHO but it's not a direct bolt-on, at least on the xB you gotta drill... :nails:

Thanks, FlyerI and ScionicMan. I've heard good things about the TRD rear brace and it supposedly bolts in to the xA without drilling/cutting! woot! I don't think I'll need it for a while, though.

I still wonder, in theory, if the sway bar attached...say...to the TRD brace as well, would there be any benefit for those looking for "all out" performance or does this setup hinder the operation of the torsion beam?

Good info from all. Thanks.

Strangest thing.......I put mine on today and the flag nuts that came with it had two nuts in each as apposed to one like in the pic at the beginning of this thread. I didn't realize it until i had already got the rear nuts and bolts in. So i zip tied the bar in place and removed them. Then i just used the flag nuts. That cost me about an hour. Am i insane or did Progress start making their flag nuts with two instead of one?

same thing happened to me, i was scratching my head trying to figure this one out... cost me mucho daynight/ into the night.. thus i had to call it a day, without installing my progress bar... :(

My bar had the two-nut flags, which I regard as an improvement over the single nut design. Very easy to use...

Mine also has the two-nut flanges. I assume you don't use the extra two nuts that come with this? Also which way do the those flanges go in? I installed mine so that the pointy ends point out the back.

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTI1NjY2NjZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

Is this right?

EDIT: I assume this is correct. Everything is tightened down and seems to be fine. I'm about to go take the car for a test spin.

I just installed My Progress ARB last night in the dark. One of the easiest things I have done on a car (and I have done alot). Took me 20 min (REALLY!)

Mine had the two nut flag bar. I used blue loctite since installing this way you have no lock nuts or split washers to help keep the bolts fron vibrating loose and torqued them down to 45. Piece of cake. Looks just like Sushiboy's ^^^

The ASB make a good differance in corner handling. Now for some springs....


-PF

Yeh, you got it right, Sushiboy... Apparently the extra nuts are... extra... since they won't work in this application...

Will a sway bay help a car on airbags?

"Will a sway bay help a car on airbags?"

Sure. I worked on airride equipped busses for years, and many had swaybars...

One of the problems with air suspension is that the bags have a tendency to act like an anti-anti-swaybar, depending on how they're plumbed. In hard cornering, the pressure in the outside bag goes up, and conversely goes down in the inside bag. Air flows from the higher to the lower pressure bag, increasing body roll... Commercial vehicles use levelling valves to prevent this, and to maintain constant ride height...

anyone know what the correct torque is to tighten the nuts?

If you know your bolt size, all you need is something like this...

http://www.engineershandbook.com/Tables/torque.htm

Bolt size M10 x 1.5 x 30, Progress says 45 ft/lbs.

Just installed mine Saturday, literally fifteen minutes. No need to remove the wheels. Really notice a difference in cornering! A must have for box owners, well worth the time and $$!

BTW, no more extra nuts or washers (Rev. B, 3/29/06) just the flag nuts and 4 washers.

And if you hurry, you can get it for under $135 shipped.

http://www.ptuning.com/html/Item-Desc.cfm?PartNo=PT62%2E2170&MakeCode=scion&ModelCode=xB&ModelYear=2004%2D2006%20All&ModelDesc=xB

Ends 10.31.06.

^^Great price! Mine was $145 shipped on fleabay and worth every penny.

Bolt size M10 x 1.5 x 30, Progress says 45 ft/lbs.

Just installed mine Saturday, literally fifteen minutes. No need to remove the wheels. Really notice a difference in cornering! A must have for box owners, well worth the time and $$!

BTW, no more extra nuts or washers (Rev. B, 3/29/06) just the flag nuts and 4 washers.

What he said. It took longer to get the car up on the stands than it did to put the bar on. The flag nuts are now welded onto the flag, no drama there.

I left the wheels on, used the inside of one rim to hold the left side of the bar up, while I loosely threaded one bolt into the flag, then finger tightened the bolts on the other side - then back to the right to tighten them on.

I'm guessing my 18" wheels gave me a lot more working space. I had NO problems getting my socket on any of the bolts (used a wobble extension part of the time).

FWIW UPS delivered mine with an open box and no mounting hardware. Partshippers and progress were very cool and got the stuff I needed to me inside 3 days.

Now on to the springs.

Bolt size M10 x 1.5 x 30, Progress says 45 ft/lbs.

Just installed mine Saturday, literally fifteen minutes. No need to remove the wheels. Really notice a difference in cornering! A must have for box owners, well worth the time and $$!

BTW, no more extra nuts or washers (Rev. B, 3/29/06) just the flag nuts and 4 washers.

What he said. It took longer to get the car up on the stands than it did to put the bar on. The flag nuts are now welded onto the flag, no drama there.

I left the wheels on, used the inside of one rim to hold the left side of the bar up, while I loosely threaded one bolt into the flag, then finger tightened the bolts on the other side - then back to the right to tighten them all up. I didn't bother with a torque wrench. That's a suspension part, you can't get it too tight with hand tools and you aren't breaking any of those parts.

I'm guessing my 18" wheels gave me a lot more working space. I had NO problems getting my socket on any of the bolts (used a wobble extension part of the time).

FWIW UPS delivered mine with an open box and no mounting hardware. Partshippers and progress were very cool and got the stuff I needed to me inside 3 days.

Now on to the springs.

is the install the same for the TRD rear anti sway bar? also is the bar just as big?

The TRD stuff is way over priced number one and number two it is not as big as the progress bar. Don't buy the TRD junk. You can get better products for way less money. As I found out the hard way.

^^ Go Progress!

Good Writeup! Bumping snd Subscribing.

if it takes you more than 10 minutesto install this, you need to immediately shoot yourself.

it's just too easy. it took me longer to put mycar on ramps than it did to install the bar.

Is ramps the way to go? I tried to jack the car up today - the body went up but I still couldn't get beneath the car. Where to raise the car????

Techmom- Never work under a jack. Always put the vehicle on jack stands. Page 200 of the owners' manual shows the jacking points, if not terribly well. Work on level concrete, not asphalt. Crack the lugnuts loose before you start to lift the car, chock the front wheels. Stout blocks of wood can be used as spacers under the jack, to increase the throw, if you want.

Stands are available at any auto parts store- I positioned them just ahead of the rear wheels on the understructure, then let the car down onto them, pull the rear wheels.

You really don't need to get completely under the vehicle using this method, particularly if you have another person to act as assistant, hold up one side of the bar, or if you use some wire or blocks to do the same thing... Work from either side in the wheelwells...

I feel compelled to repeat this- Never work under a jack. Always use stands or ramps if you're going under the vehicle.

It's a lightweight vehicle, but you're still dead if it falls on you...

I had jackstands and the wheels were chocked. I was trying to do it without removing the wheels so the car body needed to be high enough and thet was the problem. I had a new pneumatic 2 ton jack but the body didn't get high enough for me to feel safe and the area where the bar was to go didn't seem to raise at all. And the wheel never quite made it off the ground.
Either my jack really sucks or there was a better place to lift. I was using the spot just before the rear wheel with the indent made for that purpose.

Jacking the box is a little strange. My experience at the time was a little like your own- only when I used the scissor jack from under the driver's seat on the jacking point at the rear bumper was I able to get things done. My hydraulic jack didn't have enough travel. The stands went in the detents you mentioned, the wheels came off, and it was all good...

Hope that helps.

Having a large T-bar lug wrench helps, too. The stock lug wrench is really only for emergencies. Another smart buy at the autoparts store would be one of them, or an extensible lug wrench, like the gorilla wrench-

http://www.midwayautosupply.com/showproduct.aspx?productid=7957&affiliateid=10050

EDIT- It's smart to familiarize yourself with the car's jack & etc., anyway... flats seem to occur at the least opportune moment... usually when it's dark and the owners' manual is back at the house...

what is the thickness of the trd rear sway bar? anyone have the specs?

22mm

The trd and progressive are the same diameter

has anyone installed this on an xa? is there a difference worth purchasing?

I have it on my 04 XA and really improves the handling (handles almost like my miata).

I installed progress sway bar on an echo, it was so much pain to drill hole in such small space, i had to use craftsman angel driller, took me about 6 hours. it does elminate body rolls in 0-30mph but above 30mph body roll came back but arent as much as without the rear sway bar.

i use ramps, they are plastic, i didn't think they were going to hold, but they did. I feel safer under the plastic ramps than the jacks and jack stands that i have.

First off thanks for the write up it helps to see the pics for sure!
I just finished putting one of these on and just like everybody said...simple!
I used ramps which was way easier than jacking up the car and placing jack stands, the newer hardware with both nuts welded on is great! (see pic)
Instead of a box I used a couple of zip-tys to get the bar up against the axle while sorting out the end bolts...so with a 15mm socket, 2 long zip-tys, and a set of ramps it was a done deal in 15 mins! And the difference is great for the cost I can't imagine a better mod...now to get the front end sticking a bit better! I'm thinking some new struts will work fine!

Here is the picture with the new hardware
http://www.365motorwerks.com/ProductImages/progress/Progess_scion_xB_sway_bar.jpg

Great suggestion with the zip ties... can't wait to finally get one of these on my car.

great upgrade....highly recomended

I just got my hotchkis 24mm bar in, did yours all come with that flat wrench? Mine just came with the nuts, bolts, and bar. And the wrench I have at home isn't long enough to reach the far bolt.

2 Year Bump! LOL!

lol

no i think i bumped it... i wanted to post in it so i could find it easier when i installed my bar...
then after seeing it was not for the tc. :(

i deleted the post but i guess it still bumped it anyway... sorry guys

my trd rear sway bar came in today and consists of 4 m10x1.5x30 flange bolts, 4 washers and 2 reinforcement nut plates which has 2 holes on them instead of one for progress.

oh man installing this was so annoying. feeling for the threads. i had one side all good and it was just that one hole on the other that was p***ing me off. anyone know what i gotta do to feel the difference? drive on a curvy road? make some left and right turns?

Brilliant write-up. I'll be putting on either a Hotckins or TRD on the rear. I haven't really looked for a how-to on the front but I'm a bit frightened on what I may have to do. Haha.
I'll be using your guide to help install mine. Thanks!