It's bigger, it's badder, it's better than ever. And without further ado:

Here is the COMPLETE gutting guide to anything you’d need to pull out of a tC to deaden it or install speakers. As you’ll notice, I don’t pull the dash or anything above the window line as these places weren’t really necessary for deadening and would have just created extra work. So…where to start…

First things first, to start out, I removed the plastic panel running along the door sill:

Before:
http://www.edesignaudio.com/schempp/IMG_0916.JPG
After:
http://www.edesignaudio.com/schempp/IMG_0917.JPG

Notice the little white clips with the wires in them, they'll be very useful later :)

Next, the passenger side kick panel. There's one little screw cap back there in the corner, isn't too tight so you can remove it with your fingers.

Before:
http://www.edesignaudio.com/schempp/IMG_0918.JPG
After:
http://www.edesignaudio.com/schempp/IMG_0919.JPG

There's a nice amount of carpet padding back there to block road noise, I don't know if I'm even going to deaden the floor of this thing. We'll come back to that wire bundle later...It's needed to run the speaker wire out to the door.

Well, after getting this far, you may want to install your headunit, as you should be running RCA's to the back.

Here's a picture of my center console with an installed headunit already:

http://www.edesignaudio.com/schempp/IMG_0920.JPG

Now, unfortunately, I went through two steps here. First one, would be to remove the shifter knob. That just unscrews and then you can pull it off. The second step is to grab the very end of the silver part of the console and pull lightly up on it. It will pop, but don't pull to hard to force it, the cigarette lighter adapter is clipped on and you might hurt the connections if you just pull.

http://www.edesignaudio.com/schempp/IMG_0922.JPG

That's what it looks like with no console covering the shift knob.

Now you’ll want to remove the plug from the back of the cigarette lighter. It looks like this:

Before:
http://www.icixsound.com/vb/icixnation/images/83_141.jpg

After:
http://www.icixsound.com/vb/icixnation/images/83_142.jpg

Just pull straight out and set this piece of your console somewhere safe.

Next step is to remove the portion of the console that houses the climate controls. Just pull on the bottom of the piece next to the passenger seat belt light and the ignition kill light and it will just pop straight out. Slide your fingers up and repeat this until it swings down from the front. I found it easiest to do this step with the door that covers the HU closed. Once you swing the face down you'll see this:

http://www.edesignaudio.com/schempp/IMG_0923.JPG

That's the wire bundle that powers the climate controls. Just push in on the center tab and pull the bundle out. Set your console somewhere safe, I didn't and it fell and got some minor scratches :(

Now you've got this:

http://www.edesignaudio.com/schempp/IMG_0924.JPG

Notice directly above and below the edges of the HU there's a metal piece, this is the factory bracket for the HU. Luckily 2 holes in my Eclipse lined up with those as I couldn't find the dash kit anywhere locally, it's currently on order for me. You'll need a socket set to remove the top ones, but a regular phillips head screwdriver for the bottom.

This next image just shows where I wired the RCA's behind the HU. The space back there is cavernous compared to any car I've ever installed a stereo in before. Very nice for installing:

http://www.edesignaudio.com/schempp/IMG_0925.JPG

Now to remove the front seats.

http://www.edesignaudio.com/schempp/IMG_0956.JPG

Those little plastic covers just slide back and pop off, nothing too difficult :)

http://www.edesignaudio.com/schempp/IMG_0957.JPG

Now the bolts. There's 5 total, 14mm heads, pop those out then tilt the seat sideways, more wires to disconnect for the seatbelt. They also have a plastic fastener on the bottom of the seat. Tricky to remove and I broke mine. No biggie since you can just put the seat back and make sure the wire is OK when doing so.

Now onto something new, removing the center console. This one is a little tricky. Now yes…it’s dirty…but here’s the center console before removal:

http://www.icixsound.com/vb/icixnation/images/83_89.jpg

Just reach down under the little change cup/cubby hole and directly below the e-brake and pull up. This is a VERY tightly fit piece, and it’ll pop off with some force.

Here’s what it looks like after, you’ll need to carefully remove the LED’s if you got the light kit, they’re attached with foam tape to the side of the cups. Sorry about the blurriness…the pictures looked fine when I was taking them.

http://www.icixsound.com/vb/icixnation/images/83_90.jpg

Next, we open the center console to see the carpet sitting at the bottom:

http://www.icixsound.com/vb/icixnation/images/83_95.jpg

Pop the carpet off and we see these 10 mm bolts:

Before:
http://www.icixsound.com/vb/icixnation/images/83_96.jpg

After:
http://www.icixsound.com/vb/icixnation/images/83_97.jpg

After these are out, you’re almost done with the console. There are 2 screws connecting it to the dash here:

Before:
http://www.icixsound.com/vb/icixnation/images/83_93.jpg

After:
http://www.icixsound.com/vb/icixnation/images/83_94.jpg

Now to just disconnect the wires and you’re done. First wire is for the console cell charger/cigarette lighter:

Before:
http://www.icixsound.com/vb/icixnation/images/83_91.jpg

After:
http://www.icixsound.com/vb/icixnation/images/83_92.jpg

Finally, you need to remove the clip connecting the LED/cigarette lighters to the middle of the console. Here’s a view from the top:

http://www.icixsound.com/vb/icixnation/images/83_98.jpg

And here’s underneath:

http://www.icixsound.com/vb/icixnation/images/83_99.jpg

Just pinch the sides of that and it comes right out. Now just grab the console and slowly pull back and up and you get this:

http://www.icixsound.com/vb/icixnation/images/83_100.jpg

Yes, a horrible mess, I know…but this isn’t for cleanliness, it’s educational ;)

Now a quick break from the interior of the car, lets move to the hatch. This is what it looks like after removing all the liners:

http://www.edesignaudio.com/schempp/IMG_0937.JPG

Ok, so the things on the left and the right are just styrofoam but held in by some pesky clips. When they pop, it sounds like you're breaking something, you aren't. You can see them here:

http://www.edesignaudio.com/schempp/IMG_0938.JPG

They're the dark black things along the top side of the styrofoam. Just pull up by those, then slide the piece forward a bit while lifting. It tucks under the rear plastic piece. Of course, you could remove that first like I'll show in a minute.

http://www.edesignaudio.com/schempp/IMG_0939.JPG

Without the styrofoam. Just begs to be custom glassed and have a sub built into the corner, doesn't it. Look for those in the future ;)

Other side, same thing, pop the pins and pull it out, only a before shot here:

http://www.edesignaudio.com/schempp/IMG_0940.JPG

Now you’ll want to fold the back seats down to get the bolts out here. First, you’ll need to open the tie downs to get to the bolts…to do this, just pry up where you see the knife in the next picture.

Before:
http://www.icixsound.com/vb/icixnation/images/83_106.jpg

After:
http://www.icixsound.com/vb/icixnation/images/83_107.jpg

Now just unscrew the 10 mm bolt and you get this:

http://www.icixsound.com/vb/icixnation/images/83_108.jpg

You’ll need to do this to both sides, then just pull up on the carpet piece starting on one side, it’ll just pop up and you’ll be left with only the plastic retainer here:

http://www.icixsound.com/vb/icixnation/images/83_109.jpg

This thing confused me for a bit. Turns out you just need to pull up on it and it pops off to.

And now, on to the back seats. To remove the back seats, just pull up on the front corners of them. They're held in like any other back seats, just 2 little pins up front that pop when you pull. You'll have to pull kinda hard to get them to pop, but once you do, just pull the seat forward and it's out. Make sure you pop both sides before pulling forward, you'll bend the metal bracket in the back if you don't. You can fix it easy, but best not to screw it up in the first place.

Before:
http://www.edesignaudio.com/schempp/IMG_0927.JPG
After:
http://www.edesignaudio.com/schempp/IMG_0928.JPG

Now let’s get the seat backs. Let’s start with the passenger side(note, all bolts for seats are 14mm. Bolts holding belts are gold, bolts holding the seat are black.)

http://www.icixsound.com/vb/icixnation/images/83_103.jpg

The three you’ll need to remove here are the black one on the far right side, the gold one on the right being pointed to, and the black one on the right.

After you remove these, fold the seat down again to get at the back. There’s one bolt on the outside of the passenger seat:

http://www.icixsound.com/vb/icixnation/images/83_111.jpg

And one on the inside of the passenger seat:

http://www.icixsound.com/vb/icixnation/images/83_105.jpg

Sorry the plastic piece is in that pic, got it a bit early on.

Now for the drivers side back seat, here’s a pic of the front:

http://www.icixsound.com/vb/icixnation/images/83_104.jpg

You’ll need to get the two black ones for this seat, and the gold one to get the belt out for deadening.

Again, flip the seat down to get the bolts behind it.

http://www.icixsound.com/vb/icixnation/images/83_112.jpg

And the one on the inside:

http://www.icixsound.com/vb/icixnation/images/83_136.jpg

Now, the side panels in the door. There's a small plastic pin fastening them to the metal bar under the seats:

http://www.edesignaudio.com/schempp/IMG_0929.JPG

These are easily replaceable if broken, but why break it in the first place ;) You just need a large flat head screwdriver. Push it under the plastic and pry slowly:

http://www.edesignaudio.com/schempp/IMG_0931.JPG

Now for the tricky part....the grocery hooks:

http://www.edesignaudio.com/schempp/IMG_0933.JPG

That's a low angle shot of the pesky little bugger. Notice the little pin thing in the middle. The trick to these guys is to push that in. I used a very small screwdriver. Once you do that, turn it 90 degrees clockwise:

http://www.edesignaudio.com/schempp/IMG_0934.JPG

After you do that, just pull on the hook and it comes out. Sorry this image is so fuzzy.

http://www.edesignaudio.com/schempp/IMG_0935.JPG

Now that you've got all the non plastic snapping type fasteners out of the door, just start pulling at the bottom straight below the speaker. I used the cup holders to pull on and that worked pretty well. Just go all the way around the gray plastic piece while pulling.

Here's what you get:

http://www.edesignaudio.com/schempp/IMG_0936.JPG

See that speaker baffle? It’s slightly smaller than the front one, and held with bolts instead of rivets. Much easier to remove…but a fairly poor location for a speaker due to it being a very small baffle.

Now for that pesky plastic piece in the back:

http://www.edesignaudio.com/schempp/IMG_0943.JPG

All you do with this little guy is pull up:

http://www.edesignaudio.com/schempp/IMG_0944.JPG

Now for the side panels:

http://www.edesignaudio.com/schempp/IMG_0941.JPG

In that picture towards the top in the center there's a phillips head screw that you need to remove:

http://www.edesignaudio.com/schempp/IMG_0942.JPG

In the back of the panel is a tie down for luggage and other stuff:

http://www.edesignaudio.com/schempp/IMG_0945.JPG

That's a 10 mm head. Just remove that and the metal piece comes out. The top has a small tab that slides into the metal, you need to pull out and slide down to get the tie down out.

http://www.edesignaudio.com/schempp/IMG_0946.JPG

Now if you look at this image again, there's another grocery hook type thing. To remove this, just put your fingers underneath the plastic panel at the top and pull straight out:

http://www.icixsound.com/vb/icixnation/images/83_115.jpg

On the drivers side of the car, you’ll need to disconnect the power to the hatch light:

http://www.icixsound.com/vb/icixnation/images/83_116.jpg

Just pull the panels straight out, they’re held in with the little white plastic pins. All you’ve got left is the carpet.

To remove the carpet, just push the white clips running along the door out towards the door and pop them up, the carpet slides right out. Now you’ll need to remove the plastic pins at the front of the carpet near the console:

http://www.icixsound.com/vb/icixnation/images/83_101.jpg

To get the carpet out, just push the wires from the seats back down through them, then lift at the back(you’ll need to pull it down around the seat belts, the plastic covers on those just slide down) and pull it out. There’s Styrofoam under the carpet up front so it’s rather ridged and you need to be careful. After you do this, the car looks like this:

http://www.icixsound.com/vb/icixnation/images/83_102.jpg

See those recycled plastic panels? They’re excellent sound dampeners. You’ll just need to pick them up and set them aside for now.

Now, to remove the door panels for running the speaker wire. The little chrome ring on the door panel is where you start to remove it. Underneath, just pop your fingernails in there and pull. Be very careful when pulling this panel off....the very top clips on mine broke on both door panels, still work fine, but kinda sucks that they broke.

Once you get that off, you'll need to unscrew 3 screws, here's the first right behind where the chrome ring was:

http://www.edesignaudio.com/schempp/IMG_0947.JPG

Here's the second:

http://www.edesignaudio.com/schempp/IMG_0947.JPG

These are just philips head screws again. They're really tough to start and make an awful squeaking sound. Plus, they're HORRIBLY long.

Now, one last screw here:

http://www.edesignaudio.com/schempp/IMG_0949.JPG

Yes, fuzzy pic, sorry. The little box in front of the lock flips open. You'll notice a small gap, put a very small flat head screwdriver in there and pry it open. It's hinged on the far side so don't pull to hard or you'll break it. Under that is another philips head screw that's much shorter than the previous 2.

Once you've got all the screws off, just start below the speaker portion of the door and pull. Move your way around the door pulling all the clips off. Once they're all off, just slide the door out, you'll need to disconnect the door electronics. I have pictures of that, but not uploaded yet as well. On the passenger side there are 2, drivers side has one. Both are just like the one behind the center console, just push the center and they pop out.

Last thing, just pull the hatch panels out. I didn’t do anything with it, but here’s how.

Remove the two screws in the gray hatch piece:

http://www.icixsound.com/vb/icixnation/images/83_138.jpg

Now just pull off the beige hatch piece at the top of the hatch, it’s covering the side pieces. Once it’s off, remove the side beige pieces, and finally the gray piece. The gray piece is a bit tricky as it has 2 thicker snaps at the top of it:

http://www.icixsound.com/vb/icixnation/images/83_139.jpg

Once this is all done, it should look like this:

http://www.icixsound.com/vb/icixnation/images/83_140.jpg

Here’s what your car should look like now:

http://www.icixsound.com/vb/icixnation/images/83_117.jpg

Now, set your door panel somewhere safe, time to deaden. The following are several pictures of the deadening progress. Just so you guys know, the amounts used are:

30 sq. ft. for the floor.

5 sq. ft. per layer on the doors. I did 2 layers on the outer skin, none on the inner skin as I may be doing some mods soon. I also laid 1 layer of v3 on the back of the door panels.

12 sq. ft. per layer on the rear quarter panel. As this is a huge sheet of metal, I did 2 layers here.

8 sq. ft. for the front half of each rear wheel well. I triple layered these as this was where most of the road noise came in.

30 sq. ft. for the entire hatch floor(including the back ½ of the wheel wells). I did not do the actual hatch as I didn’t want to cover the wires there…plus I’ve got some thoughts for stuff I may put in there later, didn’t want to deal w/ eDead on it.

Total eDead v1SE for a tC = 120 sq. ft.

Tools required to deaden the car, roller, deadening, and heat gun(if it's cold). Best way to do it would be to cut the deadening into 2-4" wide strips and just lay them down. Heat it up after you apply it then press with the roller, it won't go anywhere. And make sure you clean the surface first.

And now, pics:

10 sq. ft:

http://www.icixsound.com/vb/icixnation/images/83_118.jpg

http://www.icixsound.com/vb/icixnation/images/83_119.jpg

20 sq. ft:

http://www.icixsound.com/vb/icixnation/images/83_120.jpg

And now, the done pictures…I did a lot by myself and just got into the work, forgot to snap pics as I went.

Drivers side hatch:

http://www.icixsound.com/vb/icixnation/images/83_122.jpg

Passenger side hatch:

http://www.icixsound.com/vb/icixnation/images/83_123.jpg

Hatch floor:

http://www.icixsound.com/vb/icixnation/images/83_124.jpg

Interior from behind:

http://www.icixsound.com/vb/icixnation/images/83_125.jpg

Driver’s side back seat:

http://www.icixsound.com/vb/icixnation/images/83_126.jpg

Passenger side back seat:

http://www.icixsound.com/vb/icixnation/images/83_127.jpg

Passenger side floor:

http://www.icixsound.com/vb/icixnation/images/83_129.jpg

Drivers side floor:

http://www.icixsound.com/vb/icixnation/images/83_128.jpg

After this, run wires and reassemble the car. Here’s a bit of a how to on running wires.

For the power wire, here’s what I did, first, run through the boot w/ most of the interior wires:

http://www.icixsound.com/vb/icixnation/images/83_133.jpg

Now run it up through the metal in the top of the brake:

http://www.icixsound.com/vb/icixnation/images/83_135.jpg

Then through the same hole on the clutch:

http://www.icixsound.com/vb/icixnation/images/83_132.jpg

Just be careful running it through there, the metal is rounded, but you should still take care when running it.

As you’ll notice in this picture, I ran the wire under the metal braces in the bottom of the car. Also, at the front of the car, just run it down behind the stock wires that go into the door:

http://www.icixsound.com/vb/icixnation/images/83_129.jpg

Remember that bundle of wires behind the kicks from earlier. Here's where you use them:

http://www.edesignaudio.com/schempp/IMG_0950.JPG

You'll want to pull them out of their clips and pull the rubber boot out of the door. Notice in the pic above the wires are just dangling out of the door jamb, this is the easiest way to run them.

Now, that big hole there, slide your wire through it and out the car. The rubber boot you've just removed has slits in it. Slide your wire in there and push it through until it comes out inside the door. Normally you can use a coat hanger but I used the 4 strand 12 awg from Knukonceptz...huge stuff. Each door took me about 1/2 hour to run wire in. Once you've got enough wire through and inside the door panel, just pop the boot back into it's hole. You might need a screwdriver to get the pressure all the way around it.

Here's proof that I used the boot with that wire without hurting it:

http://www.edesignaudio.com/schempp/IMG_0959.JPG

It's a pain, but worth it, no drilling necessary. And if I can fit that wire through there, anything will fit.

Remember those white plastic clips with the wires in the doors, here they are again.

http://www.edesignaudio.com/schempp/IMG_0958.JPG

You can remove the carpet from them by pushing in slightly then pulling up like in this picture. Also, once you run your speaker wires/RCA's they fit nicely into the clips and the door sill still goes on. That allows you go get under the carpet where there's a perfect space to run 0/1 AWG power wire to the trunk

Now, here's 2 pictures of the wire running from the back on the passenger side.

http://www.edesignaudio.com/schempp/IMG_0952.JPG
http://www.edesignaudio.com/schempp/IMG_0955.JPG

Notice in the second one how the wire is in the little clips. I love those things.

In that first pic, I just ran the wire around that rear panel in the trunk, you can pull the front out far enough even w/o removing the back clip to run wire back there.

If you have any questions on how to do anything to the car, ask away and I'll do my best to take a picture of the answer or explain it to you as best as possible.

:bow:

Perfect.....Simply perfect

Youre a beast. How many hours of work is that?

The half full killians was my favorite part.

Yeah...didn't realize the Killian's was in the pics...this was done during the ICIX meet...there was no drinking and driving.

Total hours of work, probably about 10-12 hours of actual work...I'm distracted easily though ;)

can't quite tell from the pix...is there enuff room to mount an amp vertically in the wheel well area,near the reear speakers, rather than in the trunk?

can't quite tell from the pix...is there enuff room to mount an amp vertically in the wheel well area,near the reear speakers, rather than in the trunk?

Absolutely...it's cavernous back there...

That's actually where mine will be going...for now, I've just got a temp system of comps and an amp...nothing worth pictures which is why there aren't any ;)

sweet, i want pix when you mount those amps. Someone else suggested it to me, but I haven't paid close attention to the tolerances in that spot, so thats why i asked.

So how much did you spend on this project as far supplies go? And how has the return been? Was it worth it?

what material did u use... what brand..

eDead V1SE.
120 sq. ft. of eDead with the ScionLife discount would cost $144 plus shipping.

Also, we did a before/after dB test...unfortunately it's been too windy here to get an accurate after reading. My hatch noise is now below the wind noise caused in the tC :)

$144, damn that's cheap! You just got yourself a future customer (near future I hope), although I won't be doing the uber install you did, I'll still do the doors and hatch area. How much do you think I'll need then?

if I had a tC I would be VERY comfortable with this DIY. nice walk thru.

Nice werk! :clap:

nice!

dynamat it is then...
man i'm only going to do my doors... this matting stuff is soo heavy...

Nice job! :bow:

I've only done the trunk area with a layer of v.1 and a coat of v.3 of eDead.

Yeah...didn't realize the Killian's was in the pics...this was done during the ICIX meet...there was no drinking and driving.

Nah, dont get me wrong wasnt assuming any drinkin and driving (considering the tc was gutted) I was commending your choice in beer. Nice job on the write up btw.

Yeah...didn't realize the Killian's was in the pics...this was done during the ICIX meet...there was no drinking and driving.

Nah, dont get me wrong wasnt assuming any drinkin and driving (considering the tc was gutted) I was commending your choice in beer. Nice job on the write up btw.


Ahhh...in that case...thank you :) Needed quality beer...everyone else had bud light ;)

VERY nice job! Also nice choice of beer, one of my favorites next to guiness :P

I plan on doing the hatch area and probably the doors, so the write up is appreciated!

Nicely done Mandos and thanks for spending the time to document all of that.

- Bmac

good job bro.

the work is certaintly out of my league.

took me 10-12 hrs to install my dec/amps/speakers adn runa ll the wires!

cant imagine doing all that sound deading too!

want to make a drive up to MI? haha, ill supply the killians!

VERY nice job! Also nice choice of beer, one of my favorites next to guiness :P

I plan on doing the hatch area and probably the doors, so the write up is appreciated!

YES...Guiness good...unfortunately all taken by the time I started the project ;)

Yea I went ahead an started my project without this but still a good write up... how long did it take you to gut the interior took me about 2 hours and Im still working on the deading in b/t work and school... and waiting for my edead in the mail.

Yea I went ahead an started my project without this but still a good write up... how long did it take you to gut the interior took me about 2 hours and Im still working on the deading in b/t work and school... and waiting for my edead in the mail.

Gutting was about 1.5 hours...since I'd done most of it 3 or 4 times already :)

Nice writeup. Hows the smell going for you? I have the same Edead stuff just on the inside and outside door panels and it smells like I just blacktopped the car. I did this last summer mind you.

My smell is non-existant....maybe for a couple seconds when i first get in the car but not noticable after that.

sweet

I think the smell thing goes away pyschologicaly...b/c I have had some friends who say that they can smell it... but I smell nothing.

Have you noticed any reduction in squeeks/odd noises from the car? I know that sound deadening your car is usually done for the sake of audio, but since I'm not into audio stuff, would this mod help eliminate some of the squeeks that I hear in my car?

I just took out my door panels and mid panels. I installed speakers and eDead v1. it is great sutff. Very easy to use. I am currently workign on my doors. I recommend for you audio enthusiests, to invest in this. Dynamate is way too expensive. go with eDead from www.elementaldesigns.com.

Check out my progress. Sorry no pics of my edead installed. Should have though.

http://www.scionlife.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=752923#752923

can anyone answer my question above?

I dunno about squeaks, it eliminates road noise quite nicely....a lot of the squeaks in my car are just plastic panels flexing in the heat now. What exactly is making noise that you're looking to stop.

I'm trying to eliminate the outside noises from entering the car, like when the suspension makes noise while driving, wind noise at high speeds, etc.

Damn, lookin good! Nice writeup.

Ive only done my doors, but they were done a little overkill. Ive got a total of 40 sq/ft of V.1SE and almost a whole can of V3 on them. I got a little worried about the V1SE falling off and catching in/on the windows so I painted over it all with the V3. I feel pretty secure now :) I could smell my V1SE for about a week after I did it, and then it seemed to go away. Now I smell the V3 since I just put that on, lol. But let me tell you V3 smells much better than the V1SE!

Another tip I reccomend - If you go to the work of completely gutting the carpet out, I suggest buying some carpet padding at your local carpet outlet (Only like 50cents per foot or so) and put it under the carpet when you reinstall it. This will also greatly deaden the sound of the car. Not only that but it will kill alot of road noise. Sound deadener such as shown in this post greatly helps vibrations/rattles/buzzing and such, but is not as effective in killing just plain noise - Road noise, tire noise, etc. as putting down some cheap carpet padding. If you can stuff it under the carpet on the firewall that will also lower engine noise.

I need to order some more edead soon - hopefully it will make it to my house this time... :tap: :) :) :)

I need to order some more edead soon - hopefully it will make it to my house this time... :tap: :) :) :)

Trust me...anything else that ends up getting ordered by you will have me making absolutely sure the right address is on the label. :)

And +1 on the carpet padding. I'll probably be doing that next time everything comes out....packing the panels with the padding.

And as far as the eDead falling off...just make sure you apply it on a warm day/with a heat gun and press it on well and you've got nothing to worry about :)

Hey mandos, I was curious if you have measured the drop in db since the deadening. I've been considering this as a potential option but wanted to hear how your results turned out.

Hey mandos, I was curious if you have measured the drop in db since the deadening. I've been considering this as a potential option but wanted to hear how your results turned out.

Yes I did...on average 3 dB down 50-110 MPH. I don't have the exact numbers with me as they're in a notebook at my bosses place somewhere ;) It was a windy day though...I think I encountered the down side to a full glass roof...wind noise.

Our SPL meter jumped over the original numbers if it was moved/pointed anywhere near the roof...sometimes >6dB by moving it 5 inches up :( Turns out those seams make quite a bit of noise. Was intending to test it w/ something like electrical tape over them all but haven't had the chance.

However...driving around with the gutted tC...didn't meter it...but WOW...putting it over the wheel wells and driving around with nothing but eDead in the car made one helluva difference...wish I had before and after numbers for that...since then the actual car body made more noise than the roof...probably dropped around 6 dB on average.

Very useful and helpful... good job

who wants eDead discount codes? off CLUBRSX, if repost, sorry.

eDead - 20% off at any time. (Valid for v1, v1SE, v3)
CODE: eDeadBA
NINe.2 - $40.00 off at any time. (Valid NINe.2 only, not valid for packages )
CODE: eDB92
NINe.4 - $50.00 off at any time. (Valid NINe.4 only, not valid for packages )
CODE: eDB94
eDi 6000s System - $25.00 off at any time. (Valid 6000s only, not valid for packages )
CODE: eDB60S
eDi 6500s System - $25.00 off at any time. (Valid 6500s only, not valid for packages )
CODE: eDB65S

Mandos All I can say is :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap:

That is an excellent step by step tutorial.... Very detailed and newbie friendly.. Well done..

Tim

this carpet thing you guys are talking about. What and where. Do people recommend the edead v3? I plan on order in about a month period. as soon as school gets out.

Don't hijack this thread, start a new one. To answer your question, you can call around to auto part stores and ask for carpet padding. I talked to mandos and he said you may need to apply a few (2-3) layers to achieve the same effect as eDead v1/SE but you can PM mandos just to get it from the source.

applaud the efforts. last time I did a project like that I cut down the road noise but picked up 10 rattles from taking everything out and putting in back.

applaud the efforts. last time I did a project like that I cut down the road noise but picked up 10 rattles from taking everything out and putting in back.

:silly:

will some mod please move this into the tC section. I tried searching under tC ICE and it took me 15 minutes to finally find this updated one. Also, it would be nice to replace the original tutorial that is currently in the FAQ with this, updated, one. :)

My bad...The day I moved all my posts to tC I didn't have time to do one page of them...I have a lot of posts apparently :)

Off to the tC section.

Well, I understand this is ICE & Interior, but I was looking at doing all this just to cut dead weight. I've already got all my mats, trunk liners, spare & accessories, front passenger and rear seats [upper and lower] removed out. It was around 180lbs of stuff that was just sitting there. Still have the carpet and such in there, but any idea how much weight you shaved off from the panels and carpet, and I would ask sound deadening, but you added that :-P

can you explain how to remove the back rear seats? im not sure about what you mean. "To remove the back seats, just pull up on the front corners of them. They're held in like any other back seats, just 2 little pins up front that pop when you pull. You'll have to pull kinda hard to get them to pop, but once you do, just pull the seat forward and it's out. Make sure you pop both sides before pulling forward, you'll bend the metal bracket in the back if you don't. You can fix it easy, but best not to screw it up in the first place."

can you explain a lil bit more about this part?

Quite literally, just get your hand under the front corner...and pull up.

That's really it. Easiest thing ever.

does anyone have any pictures or descriptions for installing a component set in the front and a mid-range speaker in the rear? Such as eD 6000 in the front and eD650 in the rear? I need to find out how to mount tweeters in the stock location. Pictures anyone?

I didn't take pictures, but to get the tweeters in, just remove the stock tweeters from the metal brackets, then use some double sided 3M 10 pound test tape to attach new tweeters. They won't go anywhere.

For mids, make baffles.

mandos...this posting was the bombski. you, my friend, are the man!

Thx for the 411

I think I know what my next project is. Nice write up!

WOW! this is a good write up and that is amazing work and I wonder how your sound system sounds like now....wow you are definitely...Amazing lol :bow:

My mat just came in the mail. Becides the rear sides what is the next worst spot that should be double treated?

I think it goes sides by rear seats, rears hatch, doors and kick panals(whatever those are?)

Yup...rear quarter panels(all the way from the back seats to the tail lights), rear wheel wells, doors, hatch.

The floor is kinda optional.

Just got 50 square feet of v1se2 and 50 square feet of v4 today. Just got done with the floor of the hatch area, and one of the doors. Let me tell you that the V4 is some pretty nice material. It pretty much kills any sound when you tap on it. I would definatly reccomend a layer of v4 in addition to a layer of v1.

guys - i just got 2 rolls of BXT RAAMmat and 6) yards ensolite foam. where should i put each of the two? Im sure there is a ''better'' way of setting it up since i have a good amount of both product. please help guys/girls...thanks.

I'll be getting 60 sq. ft of V1Se when I return from Dallas. Don't want to order right now since I wont be around to receive the UPS shipment.

how the hell do you get that ring off the door? Im having no luck even lifting it a lilttle bit. Im ready to do this and this piece is holding me up. Can anybody let me know how to remove the door panels completly?

oh jeze - i got it - when he means center chrome piece ..... its the circle around that one. I was trying to get the darn chrome piece out

60 sq. ft. ordered Saturday night (immediately upon arrival back home).

So I should be all set to install audio in the next month or so whenever I have time.

i used almost 9 square yards of the one stuff and almost 2 rolls of the other stuff and 2 cans of glue. My car is a lot quieter. Took me 3 days to get everything off ..everything lined...and then back together.

At the beginning:
http://www.pimpboxx.com/scionlife/car_install1.jpg


Some Done:
http://www.pimpboxx.com/scionlife/car_install2.jpg


More Done:
http://www.pimpboxx.com/scionlife/car_install3.jpg


I did all the other parts by the drivers feet and pass feet but dont have a picture of that. I put about 3-4 layers below the drivers and pass feet though.

i used almost 9 square yards of the one stuff and almost 2 rolls of the other stuff and 2 cans of glue. My car is a lot quieter. Took me 3 days to get everything off ..everything lined...and then back together.

Any pictures of the doors? I'll be doing those as well as the passenger side panels this weekend.

Greats pic's BTW!

sure - i have pics of the doors that I can post later tonight. I did not do whats ideal though. I did not take the plastic off my door because I am going to sacrifice my sanity knowing the inside of the door will be dry. You will not get best results this way because you need to stick your deadening material directly on the metal not over plastic. ....but I did .... I had a bit extra material so i figured it wouldnt hurt. Plus - I did the other parts of the door that had holes and metal showing without plastic covering.

Here are the steps I took:

1.) put a base coat on:
http://www.pimpboxx.com/scionlife/door/door_part1.jpg


2.) went to circuit city to buy 6 1/2 inch plastic pieces to make the outter structure. I took a strong poxy and applied it around the ouside of the new housing. Then I was able to drill 2 screws through the top side holes for extra security. Just to overkill it I put extra glue around the outside of the ring and soundproof matted over (with lots of glue so it would harden). I applied matting on the inside where the plastic meets the car.
http://www.pimpboxx.com/scionlife/door/door_part2.jpg

2.b)Here is the other side:
http://www.pimpboxx.com/scionlife/door/door_part2-2.jpg


3.) I applied extra matting over the louder spots on the door and around the new structure. The plastic is bonding and will be left alone till tomorrow. I am going to give it atleast 10hours before touching it so its a tight bond. Right now the piece is solid and I could mount the speaker if I was pressed for time. I am a day ahead of schedule so I am going to wait.
http://www.pimpboxx.com/scionlife/door/door_part3.jpg




The next thing I am going to look for tomorrow is a ring that will convert this 6 1/2 inch opening into a 5 1/4 because those were bought before I realized what i would be doing with the car. If you are going to follow what I did with the door then get 6 1/2 inch speakers because there is no reason why you wouldnt want to. The ONLY thing you need to make sure is that you dont buy deep speakers. The window does not give you much room behind the speaker and rules out a lot of speaker choices. I did hear that one guy put 6 1/2 polks in his car but i have no clue which ones or who it was (so do not take that as fact but from what I hear ... they might make a model that fits).



**UPDATE**
You do not want to put the matting that close to the edges. Only go as close to the edges as to where the plastic clips pop into the holes (the clips that hold the door cover on). also do not put the foam over the door parts that have the pockets. you will see what i mean if you look at picture of a stock door with the cover taken off.

jwaggz82...

Thanks for the pic's they're a real help.

I'm definitely going to eDead the entire door inner and outer skins. As for the vapor barrier... I'll either re-attach the stock one or fabricate a new one from some visqueen PE sheet.

I went with the Elemental Designs eD6500s components for the front and they fit with no problems. I also got the eU 600 mid-range drivers for the rear and hooked up the fronts to an NINe.2 amp and Eclipse AVN5495 HU.

I can't say enough about this setup!!! The audio is chrystal clear at any volume and that's without eDead in the doors and rear panels. I can only imagine what it'll sound like once the install is complete.

While I'm singing the eDesign praises I'd like to give a shout out and big thumbs up to Chris "Mandos" Schemp... He really took care of me, answered all of my questions, found me the best deal and got everything to me when he said he would.

Thanks again Chris... Pete

ps... Jwaggz... I have an extra set of speaker baffles here and I'll sell them to you for what I paid for them. Let me know if you or anyone else is interested.

Polks will easily fit (db6500) in the front doors. Their bottom mount depth is 2 5/16" (2.3125"). The eDesign eD6500s are 2.8" deep. If they fit, then Polks surely will. I have a set of dB6500 Polks under my bed that will be going in there once I receive my eDead.

i just got done installing the speakers. I constructed my own speaker setup today and it worked out well. Now that my car is completly matted with rammat the speaker responce is extreme. I replaced all 4 speakers - i used: 2 rolls rammat and 9 square yards rammatt (the stuff you apply your own glue to)

here is the pic after the speaker install so you can see how to reuse the brackets from the old tweaters. I used 5 1/4 speakers by mistake but if you make custom brackets like i did .... you can fit 6 1/2's (but you dont have much room behind them because of the window). i had to find a piece that made the 6 1/2 opening smaller so i wouldnt have a ring of free space around the 5 1/4 speaker.

http://www.pimpboxx.com/scionlife/door/door_part4.jpg




Here is a picture of what the trunk lid looks like flipped over. That way you know where the clips are when you are taking it off.

http://www.pimpboxx.com/scionlife/trunk_lid/01.jpg

yeah, so I installed my Polk dB6500 components and the dB650s for the rear this weekend along with adding about 45sq. ft. of eDead v1Se. Sound is 300 times better now with the Polk speakers. Still have about 15 sq. ft. left over that i did not use. I got tired of doing it. I did the doors, the walls behind the rear speakers, the wheel wells, the bottom of the "trunk" area and the rear quarters behind the wheel wells. Made a heck of a difference.

:D

Mandos -- have you ever successfully removed the headliner? I would like to remove the headliner to line the metal with eDead to help keep those plastic supports under there from clanging against the metal everytime I hit a bump.

Mandos -- have you ever successfully removed the headliner? I would like to remove the headliner to line the metal with eDead to help keep those plastic supports under there from clanging against the metal everytime I hit a bump.

its quite odd that after i lined my whole inside (becides the roof) it removed i would say 4/5s of the rattles I had. BUT - down the line im also looking for instructions how to remove the headliner. Thats pretty much the only thing that is left out of this post.

Honestly...removing headliners is one thing that freaks the hell outta me....creasing bad.

But because I love you guys, I might give it a shot :)

yeah that is what i need. As long as you have a purpose to do it, please do, but if you are thinking about removing it just for the sake of showing a how-to, dont take the risk of f-ing it up.

:D
Thanks though.

yeah that is what i need. As long as you have a purpose to do it, please do, but if you are thinking about removing it just for the sake of showing a how-to, dont take the risk of f-ing it up.

:D
Thanks though.

Well, what if I want to get the headliner done :)

sure...I just found a pdf that has the steps and locations of all the clips to remove the headliner. Just wish I could attach a file to this post. If you would like it email me at 24power@gmail.com

sure...I just found a pdf that has the steps and locations of all the clips to remove the headliner. Just wish I could attach a file to this post. If you would like it email me at 24power@gmail.com

how big is the file?

255kB

email me the file and i will host it

Is it essential to edead the hatch lid? Looks like a pain in the ___ to remove all of that, and work at the weird angles. Not to mention all the freakin clips for the main piece of the hatch lid wtf :P

I am just a lazy bastard trying to avoid more work :) My back is still sore from bending over and applying 2 layers on the trunk floor ::sniffle::

My back was soooo damn sore for like 4 days afterward when I did my install.

thanks jwaggz82. i have PMd you to get your email address.

its great that people are actually doing this - i notice a big difference - and yea .... i was sore as a MOFO because I went all out and did more things since my car was apart.

you've got mail. :D

My back was soooo damn sore for like 4 days afterward when I did my install.

thanks jwaggz82. i have PMd you to get your email address.


www.pimpboxx.com/scionlife/temp/x040001.pdf

nice! thanks for sharing that bro. i'm going to do the hatch lid too. I've taken it off before, its not that bad.

thanks for hosting.

n/p - have fun

just started a while ago, here is my progress...btw the hatch lid is a PITA to paint, be careful you dont go out of bounds with the panels matching up. I havent, its just a precaution, so when you put the panels back on, there is no blue past them. anyways heres the progress

http://www.reaction-image.net/albums/jinslude/DSC_6427_001.jpg

http://www.reaction-image.net/albums/jinslude/DSC_6430.jpg

http://www.reaction-image.net/albums/jinslude/DSC_6433.jpg

http://www.reaction-image.net/albums/jinslude/DSC_6439.sized.jpg
even with a small brush its hard to paint the very top panel, the ones inside inside, lol.

How many coats have you put in the trunk so far? That looks like more than one. Hehe

Hmm...1/2 gallon over the hatch...I'd say 3 coats total.

Looks good btw.

looks good, color isn't as bad as i thought
waitin for my v4 to show, puttin that in this weekend

Heh, yea my coats are pretty thick. I dont want any metal to show through, and for my preference that its solid. Thanks to Mandos and everyone at E.D.! :D

EDIT: Guess the guy deleted his post. What a jerkface.

Sorry topic off topic here but...

Does anyone know where I can get pdf's of the install manuals for the rest of the interior panels?

I need the wiring and for the speakers

I have a zip file with all the installation/removal manuals in it and it is 75.6MB. cant email it...

So if you tell me what section you want, and PM me with your email address and desired section, I will send it your way.

well u can try to pm me about it

thats funny - he says that he has the info and PM me and krazie1 indirectly says ... "if you want to help me you have to PM me and give me the details" --- good job krazie1 - i would forget i even tried to help, Pghtc.

yeah...I understand jwaggz82, but I PMd him and we worked it out. Info sent.

i think i will soon do this to my car, thanks

nothing but a big thumbs up ... im happy as anything that I took everything out and did it the right way.

Yay for having a guide I can come back to and look at when I want to do something :)

mandos is they key to this thread. good job man.

Mandos,
Is the V3 sprayable?

Yes, but kinda pointless.

You spend so much time cleaning up overspray that it's not any faster than just brushing it on.

Thanks for the guide. I used it today to get the back apart to put in my new speakers. You did a great job, couldn't have done it without you :-)

Hey Mandos thanks for the walk through..did my speakers a week or 2 ago...had a question though can u take the rear hatch apart panels without taking the rear panels off by the rear seats off.
Or is that a must in order to take the truck apart? Thats the only area left to edead it.

Which pieces are you talking about? ....and are you talking about my pics or mandos's? Let me have more info and I can prob help ya

Well okay the area i want to gut out is the Trunk area and was wondering if i had to take the panels from the rear speakers off in order to take it the rear trunk panels apart?

Reason i ask is because the order of the steps the way they were listed.
almost done making my customs sub box and need to edead it in order to place my box. dont want to make more work and plus it still cold outside wanna finish quick.

ok - ill make that part clearer - if you pop your trunk - right now your trunk lid is above your head. You need to take those strips on the left and right of the window off. The back most plastic part (closest to your sunroof) is connected to the two side pieces so be careful not to break it. Does that answer the question? ...if not i can go outside and take a picture and explain

Yea Thats alot better detailed and helps me out but im also wondering and asking about that same area on the sides? In order to take them off do i need to take the panels that are on the back speakers or i dont need to take them off?

pix would be great if you have time and are available. Thanks for you help.

oh - you are talking about in the actual trunk - ....not the lid. Oh boy - i dont remember - I know I put my back panels w/ the speakers on last. I cant remember if there is a screw under there ... I think there was ...but dont remember. The whole time I thought you were talking about the actual lid to the trunk. Watch out .... you might be right about having to take them out before the back lining of the trunk. Can someone help him out and answer this question for him? ... I dont want to see anybody break any parts.

You will have to remove the rear speaker panels to get the hatch area sides off. The rear panels actually clip onto the hatch panel.

My new problem is the little speaker grill on the rear panels (driver's side) rattles with the bass from the EU700s I mounted in there. The passenger side is fine, but the driver's side sounds like a wet fart under a heavy bass note. No more HUGE rear sub for me. I finally have room in the back again! :D I stuffed the rear panels with Poly-Fil after placing 2 layers of eDead in there and it sounds great aside from the rattling speaker grill on the panel.

same thing here - what you really want to do is put a baffle i there because those speakers have no box ....speakers perform horrible w/o a box if they should be in one. get something like these: http://www.crutchfield.com/S-pX49uGzkt9c/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?i=237XT652&cc=01&g=762&Select.x=36&Select.y=3

http://akamaipix.crutchfield.com/products/2002/237/h237xt652-f.jpeg

no no, the base response is great. It is just a vibration on the panel. There is a little plastic speaker grill on the interior panel that is a little loose and vibrates if I turn it up LOUD. If I listen at normal levels it is not an issue.

that piece will help w/ the vibration also. also - matt the metal piece to the side of the speaker

well the EU's are pretty deep. That would require quite a deep XTC baffle.

panel is not vibrating, the speaker is hitting the panel when it gets a big bass note. Gonna have to check it out. I have a couple of ideas. More to come later.

UPDATE: I decided the EU700s wouldn't work too well in the rear panels, so I moved them back and put the dB650s in there. It sounds a lot better and everything is concealed, so NO BOX and I can put my golf clubs in there without removing the subs.

http://x402.putfile.com/4/11515271078.jpg

http://x402.putfile.com/4/11515264513.jpg

I have bandpass filters on the dB650 to cut out the lows and highs and just give me solid midrange. The dB6500s in the doors SCREAM. I had to turn the gain down on them.

Very happy with this setup.

dude, thats a freakin sweet spot for those Eu-700s! I was waiting on someone to do that(put subs in that empty spot), they look so perfect in that spot too. :) what amp are you using to power them bro? excellent job :D

I had a Rockford Phosgate sub amp sitting around 150x1 at 4ohms. Those are two dual 2 EU700s wired up to give a 2ohm load to the amp. The bench testing at a 2 ohm load is 183W. Oh and that is a butt load of poly-fil behind them and all up through the rear panel. The remainder is stuffed around the dB650s in the rear seat area...you can kinda see it.

is that a sheet of mdf bolted on the car to hold the Eu-700? looks like it, but just wanted to make sure. and can you get some closer n clearer pix? hehe

it is MDF. It had to be cut smaller than I would like to fit into the spot to mount from the rear so the speaker would not hit the panel that bolts on there. This is all I have:

http://x402.putfile.com/4/11515260542-thumb.jpg (http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic=4/11515260542.jpg&s=x402)

http://x402.putfile.com/4/11515253111-thumb.jpg (http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic=4/11515253111.jpg&s=x402)

thats fantabulous mang, thanks for the pix.

That is nice sir...very nice.

Are they actually enclosed or just sitting there?

How does it sound?

sounds great. They are not "enclosed", but the poly-fil helps. I still wanted access to the taillights. Also in order to fit the panel in there I couldn't make it fit tightly. I did it with cardboard first and used that as a template. They probably would pound more if they were in a sealed enclosure, but they sound great with the music I listen to and add the fill I wanted on the bottom end. I put some 50cent to get some bass pounding and adjusted the gain on the amp that way. They hit pretty good even though it is a "free-air" application. But according to the eDesign website, they are still good in a panel-mount "free-air" application. I am happy.

well off to Club Cafe to see the bands.

later.

how are you planning on putting the lining back? ... are you going to cut it put the lining back then the subs back?

no the lining is just on there over them. I removed the padding where the speaker is. The sound still comes through...believe me. I was thinking of punching some small holes in it anyway to keep it from absorbing the sound, but actually it sounds good covered. You don't even know they are there unless the stereo is on...you wonder "where is that bass coming from??

:D

it would look pretty nice if you cut holes and put a grille over the speakers. I bet it sounds nice but should be punchier (i know thats not a word) w/o them being covered. Good work!

ok i dont want to sound like a complete idiot or anything but I have a few questions on that setup, only because I DEFINATELY want to do it if it works out...so here it goes...

1) How is the MDF board being held up (probably covered somewhere in the post but I didnt see it or I didnt understand it)

2) Would you choose a 10 inch sub in a closed box over those two 6.5 mid-ranges (I know its a vague question)

3) Are you running the amp from the stock HU or aftermarket (if aftermarket, can it be done well on the stock HU without the RF package)

Sorry if the questions are noob'ish

ok i dont want to sound like a complete idiot or anything but I have a few questions on that setup, only because I DEFINATELY want to do it if it works out...so here it goes...

1) How is the MDF board being held up (probably covered somewhere in the post but I didnt see it or I didnt understand it)

2) Would you choose a 10 inch sub in a closed box over those two 6.5 mid-ranges (I know its a vague question)

3) Are you running the amp from the stock HU or aftermarket (if aftermarket, can it be done well on the stock HU without the RF package)

Sorry if the questions are noob'ish

1) the MDF board is being held up by bolting it to the sheet metal flange around the wheel well. If you can see, there are 4 bolts on each one. That holds it SOLID. It doesn't move. Optionally, to add stability, you can put an L-bracket (steel) on the back of the upper right corner that bolts to the metal around the inside of the taillight. I am running without it right now as it would be a pain in the arse to install, and I would probably need to remove the taillight to do it correctly. The board is pretty stable mounted as is, so I don't think I will add it.

2) Hard to say. I am sure a big sub has the ability to hit harder down low, but it is all about preference. I wanted decent bass that didn't keep me from throwing the golf clubs in the back. I had a 12" sub in a ported box before and always had to remove it when I needed to use the back. It also sounded bad to me. It was a bad box.

3) I am running 2 amps from the stock head unit. An alpine 4 channel for my components and midranges, and the rockford for the eD 700s. I am using the RCA converters you can find on eBay that plug into the stock wiring harness. This creates two sets of jacks (front and rear). I run the RCAs to the Alpine which has a pass-thru jack, that passes the signal to the Rockford amp. It sounds good with the stock head unit. I imagine it would sound better if I had an aftermarket receiver that could pass a stronger/cleaner signal to the amps.

Hmmm ok, so basically the stock HU "HAS" the RCA jack already regardless of whether you have the RF package or not? Or does the converter just plug into the HU's wiring harness to convert into the RCA cables?
So im guessing because you aren't pushing that much power, you wouldn't necessarily need a new battery or a CAP, am I correct?

no the stock HU doesn't have the RCAs, I am using an adapter the plugs inline with the stock speaker and power harness and it converts to 2 sets of RCAs. (a line out converter basically).

No need for a new battery or Cap. I am only running 543W. (360 for the alpine, and 183W for the rockford).

ah cool thanks, I think im getting a clearer picture in my head of whats going on. Thanks again, I think im gonna get the Eu-700's with either a PPI/JL/PG amp and see how it goes from there.

How do I remove the dash panel if I have an automatic instead of a manual?

dunno, but I think it is pretty much the same way.

great walk through definitly helps on my in dash install

Here's a quick question for anyone that has deadened their tC.

Approximately how many sq. ft. would you guys recommend to cover the doors, mid panels, and the entire hatch?

I was thinking maybe 75 to 100 sq. ft.?... what do you guys think?

I used raammat which is 62.5 Square Feet per Roll and 2 rolls. Plus some other type of raamat foam for the trunk and rear sides. So t answer your question I used about 140 sq ft but that was because I wanted it all done w/ a few layers. I know if you PM rick he will give u a few bucks off his webpage price ...plus he answered any qustion I had.
http://www.scionlife.com/profile/raamaudio

We used these tC instructions today. Thank you for posting this up, what a great service!

Frank and James

For the door panels, when deadining the inside of the plastic piece, did you guys remove the yellowish plastic pieces?


Or did you just deaden over them? Or is it even necessary to deaden them?

The styrofoam?

Mine is still in there...only the plastic got painted.

Those are eventually being cut off when I seal the door up :)

Sorry, I messed my wording up. Yea I meant yellowish styrofoam pieces rather than plastic pieces. I need to get in the habit of proof reading.

Thanks.

Oh and I have a PM coming your way.

For the door panels, when deadining the inside of the plastic piece, did you guys remove the yellowish plastic pieces?


Or did you just deaden over them? Or is it even necessary to deaden them?

i didnt because keeping the stock rain guard there was a better idea (for me) then to deaden the car. If you keep the stock quard on there dont even bother putting deadening material over the top. if someone told me that I deff wouldnt have bothered. The rear of the car puts out LOTS of noise so i would say ...look into that more. bang on the car and listen for where it makes the most noise.

Blocking road noise and such is a bonus for me. More importantly, I am deadening to improve the midbass and decrease vibrations.

take out one back seat panel and you will see that ya need to fix that more importantly.

They will be done in time. These two doors are high on the priority list right now. Can't put in the components until I finish deadening these damn doors.

Blocking road noise and such is a bonus for me. More importantly, I am deadening to improve the midbass and decrease vibrations.

Deadening to improve midbass = seal the holes.

These instructions RAWK!! I used them to put in my 2 12" RockFords (in sealed box). I kept the stock HU and used a Skosche (sp) Line-out convertor with my Rockford Amp (can't remember the model). Right now, the Amp isn't mounted and the wires aren't cut to length because this is a temp install until I get new components for the front. I also still need to deaden the trunk, but it sounds good inside, although I still need to do some tweaking.


Thanks for the instructions...this should be a STICKY!!

Not a sticky because it's already a tech article :)

Well, the V1 is...I like this one better.

Happy Birthday, Chris! hehe

Depending on how my back is this weekend, I'm totally gonna install my 6500s. Can't wait. Hope I'm not dead.

How long does it take for the v3 to dry in the hatch area? Also, when you do the hatch area, did you take the hatch lid (the actual hatch apart to deaden?

I let it dry overnight.

Oh, and yes, I removed the hatch panels and used v2se and the v3 on it.

Dry, about 2 hours or so...fully cured, 24.

If you put your car back together right away, it'll smell like mangoes for a while.

not mandos?

Very cool. I was looking at Dynomat, but it costs way to much, IMO. I'll go with the v3 and see how that goes.

About how much will I need if I decide to do the whole car? I was thinkin of just doin the rear half for now (hatch and rear seat areas), so I figure one bucket will do for that. I'll do the doors when I get speakers up front.

rear seats and hatch, might end up with a little mroe than 1 gallon to do the full thing...depends on how overboard you go :)

talk about 56k DEATH.

Just ordered the v3 in black.

Mandos, excellent walkthough! Thanks for taking the time to share this info!

Just one question. Does anyone know if there would be any issues when removing the seats with side airbags?

do yo uhave to deaden the car? cuz thats just more money out of my pocket lol. or is it something u can do in the future after u put in the stereo and what not?

You can do it later if you want :)

will it make that much a difference with the stereo im puttin in?

will it make that much a difference with the stereo im puttin in?


dont forget it helps a lot w/ road noise.

How hard would it be for someone with virtually no car audio experience to do all this? I'm willing to learn and I was able to install my HU with minimal research pretty easily.

How hard would it be for someone with virtually no car audio experience to do all this? I'm willing to learn and I was able to install my HU with minimal research pretty easily.

Myself and other people have talked about this issue in past posts. Search for them - then ask questions in another post. The basics of audio ( i think ) is very easy. You are running wires that need to complete a circuit. Pretty much when you amp speakers you are just running RCA cables (the left and right) from the head unit to the amp. Then - there are left/right speaker wires that go to each amped speaker. Even for the beginner I think you will be fine w/ a few questions answered. I used to put systems in cars for friends when I was 15 ....so .... I cant be that hard ..hehe.

Seemsl ike an odd topic to find good keywords for but I will see what I can find.

I know all the electrical stuff...I'm a big home theater buff. It's more about the physical installation and removal etc than the connections. I know you can cause car fires by improper wiring your car...now that scares me.

page 3 has what the speakers look like:
http://www.scionlife.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=60981&postdays=0&postorder=asc&&start=50

the fronts you can put 6 1/2's and get the mounts that mandos makes. I made my own but if i knew he made them I would have bought his. Also - i had the wrong size - i have 5 1/4's and should have had 6 1/2's. The backs are smaller then 6x9's but you can put larger then 6 3/4's if you want. You have to drill your own holes which really isnt that bad if you take your time and cover the speaker - u dont wanna the drill or screw driver to slip off and go through your speaker *(which almost happened to me).

other then that - u need a power wire that goes from your battery to the amp. Then a ground that u drill a screw into anything metal and that goes to the amp. Then one set or RCA's that go from the headunit to the amp. Then you run one pair (right and left) to the amp to each speaker. When running the power wire I would run it through the firewall hole that is already cut under where the drivers feet is. You will see a big rubber gromet. Put it through there. At the very end of your power wire by where the battery is you will have a big fuse - that will help stop a fire - just make sure you run your wire through the firewall w/ that hole thats already there .... I made my own in my truck and bought gromets - well .... the gromet wore away after time and then the wire cut into the metal ....it kept sparking and blowing my amp fuses .... that happened over and over when I figured out what the problem was. Long story short .... I was taking the wire out to fix it when it sparked for the last time and the first went right up the line in a second - we were able to put it out w/o any damage but it scared the BONKERS out of me!!! Honestly - it was a 1/2 a second and the fire when strait up the power line .... anyway - use the hole thats already there. There is a very heavy gromet there ... if you dont trust that .... wrap the power wire in tap for a few layers .... other then that ...dont worry. Use the same fuses that came w/ the amp .... if it sparks it will blow the fuse and you will be fine (but 99.9% it wont spark ever) .... I didnt do things right and it did. ...and I didnt know why so I kept putting more and more fuses in.

Thanks for the tips and experience. Is there no precut hole or way that does not involve making new holes to run the wire to the trunk?

very nice writeup. i was planning on doing my doors, but i dont know where to start. the doors have a horrible rattle when i turn my music up. so i just put the sound deadening on the whole door panel? i saw pics of the door a few pages back, but it didnt really tell me much. i'd appreciate it if someone could let me know.

very nice writeup. i was planning on doing my doors, but i dont know where to start. the doors have a horrible rattle when i turn my music up. so i just put the sound deadening on the whole door panel? i saw pics of the door a few pages back, but it didnt really tell me much. i'd appreciate it if someone could let me know.

well - i had to take a lot of my deadening off my door because te panel didnt fit right with it on. Unless you want to go into the door where the window is ...you dont really have much to pad. Also - you can do around the speaker if you want.

This is the best tutorial ever. I'm planning on running a full SQ-style setup in my car, and I'm sold on using eDead thanks to this. mandos, how much eDead v3 would I need to cover this area? About 2 gallons? It seems that it's 1. lighter and 2. easier to apply than the mat type. I'll probably also get you guys to do my subwoofer cabinet build too. Actually, might as well just PM me if you see this - I don't know whether I'm doing interior or suspension first, but I'm thinking I'll be doing interior during january.

That said, I'm doing all of my interior at once. Everything from stereo to deadening to seats etc. I should save some money.

Bookmark-save...

did u get better 1/4 mile?

did u get better 1/4 mile?

From what? Adding a hundred pounds of sound proofing material? The gutting of the interior was for him to add eDead for his stereo equipment.

bump for a great guide that needs to be stickied

:bow: please sticky...Simply Amazing

V1. is in the tech section.

This one's in my sig...

And I'm pretty sure I post waaay too much here :)

Will edead help with rattles? I understand it is mostly used to reduce road and car noise, but will it at least help? If it would even stop half the rattles, I would be happy.

Also, has anyone used edead or a similar product in the dash too? It seems most of my rattle problems are coming straight through the dash. Will I have a hard time fitting it back together? Ugh... the rattles are my one true annoyance with the tC. Even the paint doesn't bother me so much. I live on top of a giant brick road, and it makes me cringe everytime I drive it or embarassed when someone is with me. :-(

Thanks in advance for the responses...

BTW, great post and write-up

Mandos, the eDead you put in the trunk looks like it laid down almost like paper! Mine was a son of a _____ to try to get to fit down pretty well, and it still isn't that great. Did a heat gun make it sit like that?

this is the best how to ever thanks alot

lots of info.. I'm sure it will save people a lot of time..

keep it up

i need to watch this... i always try to look for it but cant find it

im bringing this up from the dead just to request a picture of exactly how you ran the wires through the grommet from the engine bay to right above your brake pedal, you picture isnt 100 percent clear

i'm thinking about buying around 50 square feet of edead vise2 and covering the trunk and the door panels. Do you guys think I will see a noticeable decrease in road noise/exhaust noise?

im bringing this up from the dead just to request a picture of exactly how you ran the wires through the grommet from the engine bay to right above your brake pedal, you picture isnt 100 percent clear

It's damn near impossible to get pictures of it...basically I slit a hole and fed through wires.

These might help though:

http://www.scionlife.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=77383&highlight=runs

As for 50 ft. making a difference...yeah, it should help out quite a bit.

cool, would you say the door panels need the most deadening?

I got to remember this thread... those damn rear quarter panels are a pain to get out!

Just wanted to add to the list of compliments on this walkthrough. Awesome job! I just used it to install 2 bazooka tubes and an amp stealtlhy under the hatch area. I didn't break a single clip thanks to you!!

i'm thinking about buying around 50 square feet of edead vise2 and covering the trunk and the door panels. Do you guys think I will see a noticeable decrease in road noise/exhaust noise?


WOW.. You will be amazed at the difference! After 16 years of owning cars, I had never Dynamatted before.. SO this time I figured what the hell and fully did it wen I put my front door speakers in..


WOW


I mean.. night and day difference. Road noise, crispness of music, everything. In fact, since just my front doors are done and nothing else, the first time I went driving on the highway I kept thinking that my passangers side door was open slightly since I kept hearing this whoooosh noise right behind it. Nope, it was because the door was totally deadend from sound and road noise was just behind it. Night and day difference.. I'm doing the whole car now and will always do this mod on every car I own from now on.. Worth EVERY penny!

Best deal going for sound deadening is this:

http://cgi.ebay.com/Ultimate-B-Quiet-100-sq-ft-w-Dynamat-roller_W0QQitemZ200137742424QQihZ010QQcategoryZ1498QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

100sq ft plus roller for $240 shipped, and in tests it had nearly the same values as Dynamat Extreme if not better. Easier to work with too.. Very flexible and thinner.

Is disconnecting the wires on the front seats easy?

yes they have tabs you push then just separte the two halves.......very easy......

I'm doing this over the next few days (hopefully won't take longer than that). My interior is almost out - Having trouble with the darn grocery hook behind the front seats.

Asides from that, I'm ready to get to work! Using 2 rolls of Raamaudio and 3yrds of ensolite padding.

To get the hooks out you use a screw driver and push the hold tab to the center fo the tab and rotate the hanger toward the back of the car.......then pull it straight out......do same iwth other side....they pop right out if you rotate to back of car.

Helped me out a lot..... :bow:

Thank you for an excellent guide!

I used Raammat and Ensolite for my daughters 2008 TC. Took 2 days but the results are worth it. The stereo sound is better, and the lack of rattles is terrific. I was surprised at how solid the car seems. The Borla exhaust seems a bit quieter, a bit....

Thanks again.

Sweet, people still use this sucker :)

yes we do........

I'll be using it for a second time coming up shortly. I'll be putting in some deadening in my front doors in a couple of weeks. This thing was a lifesaver back when I did my stereo in 2006!

can you notice a huge difference as far as reduced road noise ?

can you notice a huge difference as far as reduced road noise ?
It's like night and day.

sweet i know what my next project is gonna be

can you notice a huge difference as far as reduced road noise ?
It's like night and day.

You'll notice it for the first 2 weeks, then your ears will become normalized.

I deadened my doors last week, and even without the speakers in and the covers back on, I can notice a dramatic difference just driving around the block and down some streets that usually provide a high level of road noise. I ordered 30 more sq ft. of eDead, so I'll be doing the hatch lid and the rear panels. It's not even funny how much of a difference there is between the treated door areas and the untreated areas when doing the "knuckle knock" test. Can't wait til I'm all done and everything is buttoned up.

this write-up is simply breathtaking
awesome idea about the carpet padding too!

I am planning on deadening my tc. What I basically need is:

-List of items needed to complete project
-Which versions of edead to use?
-How much of each versions?

I am pretty lazy, but would anyone recommend going all out? Or just main parts?
If just main parts, which parts would make the most difference and how much edead would I need to cover them?

where is a good website to buy eDead at?

My car is gutted thank to this thread LOL I was scurred of doing it at first

Im mospeedtc and I approve of this thread

where is a good website to buy eDead at?

uhhh


www.edesignaudio.com

thanks lol the first time i went on there everything was in euros tho?? confused me a bit

thx nebster

i got 120 sq ft on ebay from the actual dealer for $130 shipped. i got the edead 45 or w.e it is. Compared to the dynamat extreme ive used before it seems like paper but in layers its ok.

Awesome write up!

how do you remove the roof side garnish that contains the airbags?

Sorry if this was posted already, but was it hard to uninstall and reinstall the driver seat? Mine is stuck and I have to remove it, but don't know how tough it will be to put back on and how long it might take. Any help is appriciated.

Some of the pictures are dead, any way that you could get those pics up and permanent to this post?