Here are my speakers. I havn't started on the front ones yet. These are 6.5 Alpine SPS-170A. I am using them for the front also.
http://sweb.cincinnatistate.edu/mjmorris/audio/baffel.jpg

http://sweb.cincinnatistate.edu/mjmorris/audio/baffelmount.jpg

http://sweb.cincinnatistate.edu/mjmorris/audio/sps1.jpg

http://sweb.cincinnatistate.edu/mjmorris/audio/sps2.jpg

http://sweb.cincinnatistate.edu/mjmorris/audio/sps3.jpg

http://sweb.cincinnatistate.edu/mjmorris/audio/spkr.jpg

http://sweb.cincinnatistate.edu/mjmorris/audio/hu.jpg




And here is a template for the rear baffels only. So you can print this out and cut out your baffel from wood. Most audio ralated projects use MDF wood. I used 3/4" plywood. Workedgreat. I just recieved some eDead, and that is tomorrows project, well, its 1:30am, so later on in the days project. The factoy bolts for the plastic factory speakers are about 1/2 long. You will need to buy these bolts for a 3/4" piece of wood. M6-1.0 1.5" bolts. They can be found a Auto Zone. They didn't have them at the Home Depot by me.

Open this PDF and print out for the REAL SIZE baffel template. ONLY FOR THE REAR MID PANELS!
http://sweb.cincinnatistate.edu/mjmorris/audio/rearbaffel.pdf

let me know how things went. When I make the door speaker baffels, I will share that template with you also. By the way, the circle cutout in this baffel template is customized for a 6.5" speaker. So cut your center circle according to your speakers.

Email me at mike_morris84@hotmail.com or AIM: Liltwistaharmony

nice DIY! how do you like the speakers? how much better are they than stock? i'm looking to upgrade mine as well.

is that coca cola with lime any good? my friend said it tasted like ____

oh, and the speakers are looking sweet! :)

Love the speakers. I have the 6x9's in my buick. The stock speakers are terrible.

Yes the coke with lime is yummy. Lots hate, I love.

I was wondering about the Coke too :lol:

Looks good. Finished pics???

Thanks for the write up w/ pics!

I would like to do something like this also. I'd rather put some nice speakers that put out ample bass than having to install a sub. The upgraded speakers and some dynamat should do the trick for me.

Now about the Coke w/ lime. It is hands down the best for rum and Cokes. Try it and you'll see what I mean.

i like the commercial

"put the lime in the coca cola"

"Put the lime in the coke you nut" YOU FOOL! :)

Here is the rest of my work. I am finished. With the audio at least. I am going to put my leftover eDead under my back seat. Sorry the pics are huge!

FRONT DOOR SPEAKER/BAFFELS 3/4plywood. #6-34 bolts/nuts to hold baffel on.

You will find some aluminum rivots holding the factory bafflels in. Drill them out with a 1/8" bit. I drilled them and pryed on them with a pair of needle nose pliars. They were a pain in the ___ i must say. The you will replace those rivots with #6-34 bolts. I used washers also to hold on the baffel. Nut goes on back of bolt for there are no factory threads.

http://sweb.cincinnatistate.edu/mjmorris/f5.jpg

http://sweb.cincinnatistate.edu/mjmorris/f3.jpg

http://sweb.cincinnatistate.edu/mjmorris/f2.jpg

http://sweb.cincinnatistate.edu/mjmorris/f1.jpg

http://sweb.cincinnatistate.edu/mjmorris/f7.jpg

http://sweb.cincinnatistate.edu/mjmorris/f4.jpg

http://sweb.cincinnatistate.edu/mjmorris/f6.jpg


And here is the PDF file for the Front Baffel Template. Print this out and use it to cut your wood Everything lines up perfect!

http://sweb.cincinnatistate.edu/mjmorris/frontbaffel.pdf

sorry the pdf file right now is like 14 MB. I was in the process of upleaded a small file, but I cannot access my server right now. I will update the file size sooner than later.

Nice work...don't the type-s' come with brackets already though?

Did you cut your template with a jigsaw or a router?

Looks very nice.

i got the same speakers in my xB....love them....great mids and highs...best bang for the buck!

yes they come with brackets..however the screw holes are lined up like an equalateral triangle. HERE IS THE CATCH. The tC made their baffels so the screws are not in an equalateral. Therefore you have to make your own. Wood baffel supports better than plastic, and u wont lose any bass.
BTW.... i updated the PDF file... ITS GOOD TO GO...

I used a jigsaw to cut.

When you add the 3/4" speaker bracket to your mid panel, would it make it hard to re-install the panel cover?

I was able to use the plastic ones?? It was a chore lining up the holes, but finally was able to get all 3 to line up.
I agree the strength of wood is better, but the plastic adapters that came with the co-axs worked.
PS those speakers sound great in the tC. I opted for the 171s up front.. very please.

install looks great, I bet it's very quiet insode the car now.

When you add the 3/4" speaker bracket to your mid panel, would it make it hard to re-install the panel cover?

No because the factory baffels stick out a lot. actually, with the wood baffel, it sits probably 1/8 lower than the factory does. The factory baffel sticks out 1 1/4 inches. The 3/4" wood piece only stickout that plus your speaker on it.


By using a wood mounting bracket, you give yourself more mounting depth opposed to the factory plastic bracket. That thing is thin.

I used a jigsaw to cut.

damn those are some nice cuts for having used a jigsaw! Of course it doesn't have to be perfect but I'm a perfectionist.

Nice work

I took my time on the back baffels, but actually i rushed to do the front ones. The fronts are not that great. Little jagged. But like you said, it doesn't matter. Just as it doesnt matter I put my back speakers in upside down.

this was the install from my Civic
http://www.dubfusion.com/car_audio/installation/door_install_02.jpg

I think I'll try to use MDF again but I'll seal it and treat it, because when i took everything out after two years it cracked and fell apart due to the heat here in Vegas.

Thanks for the write up w/ pics!

The upgraded speakers and some dynamat should do the trick for me.

I highly reccomend using some eDead v.1 or eDead v.1 se. I did and it is GREAT. cheaper than dynamat. eDead series is Very easy to use and cut. They have GREAT customer service. Check it out. Elemental Designs (http://www.elementaldesigns.com)

Very nice. I'm going to be doing something similar very soon. Thanks for the pics!

Coke increases your risk of osteoporosis since the acids in coke eat away at the calcium of the bones in the human body. :no:

Coke increases your risk of osteoporosis since the acids in coke eat away at the calcium of the bones in the human body. :no:

we're all dying anyway

When you add the 3/4" speaker bracket to your mid panel, would it make it hard to re-install the panel cover?

No because the factory baffels stick out a lot. actually, with the wood baffel, it sits probably 1/8 lower than the factory does. The factory baffel sticks out 1 1/4 inches. The 3/4" wood piece only stickout that plus your speaker on it.


By using a wood mounting bracket, you give yourself more mounting depth opposed to the factory plastic bracket. That thing is thin.

This has me confused. You say the stock baffle sticks out a lot and that it sits lower with the wood, and I don't see how this gives you more mounting depth. Maybe because I've never seen it in person I'm missing something?

http://sweb.cincinnatistate.edu/mjmorris/audio/fac.jpg

http://sweb.cincinnatistate.edu/mjmorris/audio/fac1.jpg

http://sweb.cincinnatistate.edu/mjmorris/audio/FF2.jpg

http://sweb.cincinnatistate.edu/mjmorris/audio/FF1.jpg
v- this is the rear speaker
http://sweb.cincinnatistate.edu/mjmorris/audio/FR.jpg
this picture is comparing the factory baffels to the wood one you would make with 3/4" wood. the rear (magnet, or depth area) is not accurate, but the area where it sticks out past the mounting is accurate. (just not texture and color). This picture shows how much further the factory speaker sticks out than the alpines i've mounted. So the answer is, No, there is no problem trying to replace your mid panel. Your new mounted speaker and baffel will not stick out that far. infact it will not stick out further than the factory's mount. --v
http://sweb.cincinnatistate.edu/mjmorris/audio/compare.jpg

See how these factory speakers stick out beyond where the baffel screws in.

On the wood baffel i created, where you screw it in, is almost the furthest part out., as where he factory sticks out a lot beyond. I hope these pics help. the rears are paper and paper surrounds. they are like 5.6" the fronts are about 6.5".

Because I used 3/4" wood, then the speaker sticks out 3/4" further than the car's frame (wher you drop the speaker/speaker mount in).

I'm still not getting this....In that comparison picture, with the stock baffle, the stock speaker screws in about 1" out of the door. With the wood baffle, it's screwing in about 3/4" from the door. How does this increase the mounting depth? How are you not losing that 1/4"?

I guess I wasn't clear. By using the baffle piece that comes with the Alpine SPS-170A's, you are not gettin as much mounting depth. that piece is only about 1/6".

Mounting depth doesnt matter with the stock speakers, they are what they are. But your after market speakers range in sizes. So by using the 3/4" wood baffel you will help extend mounting depth compared to just putting the speaker in against the aluminum frame. It also beats using the plastic baffel that comes with the alpines, and any other speakers.

ohhh....maybe you meant this...

Were you thinking of taking the factory speaker out of that plastic piece and using the plastic baffel for your aftermarket speaker? If that is what you had in mind that won't work. The plastic baffel around the speaker is apart of it. You cannot seperate them. Customized for a scion. Therefore you have no choice expect to make your own baffel, use a small flemsy baffel that comes with your speakers you buy, or somehow mount it directly to the aluminum frame (which most likey wont work because it is a big fram for a speaker).

Thanks Morris! Those pictures really help a lot.

I have put off the audio project for so long because I always worried about the mounting depth. Now, with those info, I will go ahead and get my hand dirty real soon.

By the way, what head unit is that? How's it compare to the stock in term of bass output?

Great pics and thanks for the info.
I didn't know that the stock speakers and the baffles are together.

That head unit is a JVC El Kameleon. The biggest differerence is the Bass. The stock HU has a +5 or +6 bass, I forget. Well Min ehas +6 bass plus a BBE 1, 2 and 3 which adds tones of Bass. I love it. SAdly, they do not make this Head unit anymore. You can find it on ebay for around 70ish dollars. I bought it as best buy for 275.00 i believe. I will be gone for the weekend, if u have a questin i can answer it when i get back. GOod luck with installation

If you want a more In depth walkthrough, check out this fourm. IT IS GREAT. I actually followed this fourm and learned from this. It is by Chris Schemp, he's a great guy. Knows his ____.

http://www.scionlife.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=45238

Mounting depth doesnt matter with the stock speakers, they are what they are. But your after market speakers range in sizes. So by using the 3/4" wood baffel you will help extend mounting depth compared to just putting the speaker in against the aluminum frame. It also beats using the plastic baffel that comes with the alpines, and any other speakers.

THAT explains it right there lol. I thought this was supposed to give you more depth than the stock baffle. I got it now. Thanks for the explanations.

Nice job, bet it sounds a whole a whole lot better!

Now I thought that toyota makes a bracket especially for aftermarket speakers. I dont remember which site I saw it on but I will try and dig it up.

These are all I found...
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-e2o7FWU5Vty/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=103200&I=142SAT6

yeah but I think that is just a mounting bracket....I don't think it gives any additional mounting depth.

mjmorris: (or anyone who knows) Do you happen to know approx. how much mounting depth there is with the 3/4" baffle? I'm trying to figure out if I'm limited to certain speakers because of mounting depth. Or is there plenty of room for just about anything?

Lots of room. The stock depth is 3.3" add the baffel say 3/4" and you have a little over 4 inches.

So do the factory tweeters still work? Are the woofer and tweeter in the door seperated by a crossover or by the deck?
That's a great how-to...thanks. I just picked op some infinity 6.5's for front and rear...will do the swap soon. Good job

Lots of room. The stock depth is 3.3" add the baffel say 3/4" and you have a little over 4 inches.

So without any baffle, the stock depth is 3.3"? From the door mounting panel to the back panel? Why do so many people make baffles then? Isn't that a lot of room to start with?

that is quite a bit of room to start with.....but i think most people would prefer to have something other than metal on metal for speaker mounting.....plus I don't know if a 6.5" will sit in the door sheet metal....

That is true, I know Crutchfield supplies you with a mounting plate, but I guess most places don't. I'm just trying to figure out why Crutchfield says there's only 2 speakers that will fit the tC.

I do ont like the "What fits my car section" I have a feeling the what fits my car means that they weill supply you with the platic baffels. But I am ot sure. Don't do the pioneers they offer... "BLAH". The kickers might be nice.

I personally like to go the extra mile and make things such as baffels. Feels good when you are done. You can use the pastic brackets that they offer too.

Yeah I'm starting to think that as well, now that I know the problem isn't the mounting depth.

Yes, the tweeters still work. I am not sure what the factory crossover is. It might be the factory head unit. But I just poped my coaxel speakers in, So i am still running the factory tweeters along siide of my coaxel tweeter, which is not ideal because you lose power from your new speakers, but not much. Not noticably different. The best way to go is Component set, I just didnt feell like yhaving to make a speacial mount fot the tweeters. I am fine with my set up.

oddly enough though, I baught Infinity Kappa's and they just plopped right into all four of my speaker holes, granted i had to break off thwe tweeter's mounting piece and fitted my kappa's tweeters on them, but hey it works beautifully.

So if your not one to work with wood, try the kappa's :) They come with brackets that will be wide enough to fit the holes, and the three way 6.5" fit int he back perfectly even with the plastic dividers built behidn the grills, the teetwer pods fit right inbetween :)

Being that I am a stereo installer at circuit city, these look exactly like the factory speakers in the celica. Metra makes mounting brakets for the celica and these will probably work also. I will do some investigating on this. The wood ones are a great idea but i think I would just rather pay the 20 dollars and use the metra adapters.

blast you circuit city installation people!

Thanks for the template....Works PERFECT :bow:

no problem. I thought they would be of good use. I wsh I had 'em before i started. Heh. GL with the installations.

just writing to say thanks for posting up the templates and to have this in "my posts." For some reason it took me forever to find this using the search function.

Sorry for the Newb question, but what is eDead? Is that all of that duct tape looking stuff? What does it do????

Have you heard of dynimat? eDead is the same thing (only better). It is a sound deadening material. I keeps doors and metal/plastic panels from rattling. Essentially if done correctly, turns your car door into a speaker box. It creates better sounds and deeper bass for your car. Not absolutely necessary, but I am very anal about my audio. I like it crisp and loud.

Gotcha. I definitely don't want to be that guy that sounds like he's sitting in a vibrator because everything's rattling from bass.

Moved to ICE.

Templates rock, thanks man

bump

Very new to the audio world but the templates and walk through is calling me....i am curious if i keep the stock HU and stock tweeters and just upgrade the speakers front and back...is it worth it??? And what would be good replacements that are just plug and play persay....thanks

nothing is really plug n play unless you get the speaker harness from crutchfield.com or another site. And it you dont want to spend too much money, the best upgrade is to get a front component set (tweeters and speakers) instead of spending the money for 2 sets of coaxials. Dont even bother with the rears as they are just fill. The fronts are whats important.

Very new to the audio world but the templates and walk through is calling me....i am curious if i keep the stock HU and stock tweeters and just upgrade the speakers front and back...is it worth it??? And what would be good replacements that are just plug and play persay....thanks

I wouldn't recommend upgrading the front speakers with a set of components (comp's) unless you are either adding an amp, or replacing the head unit with something that has really clean power. The stock HU is okay, but if you get a really nice set of comps, the stock HU isn't going to be enough to power the comp's and have them sound good. You won't hurt the speakers any (unless you are underpowering them AND are getting a lot of distortion), but not only will it not sound any better, but it coudl sound worse.

I thought the tC had 6 speakers?

It does.

2 mids in back.

2 mids in front

2 tweets in front :)

E-designs offers a package with components and baffles, what is the mounting depth on them and what material are they made of?

The baffles are 3/4" MDF.

The speakers mounting depth is 2.8"

nice work

this was the install from my Civic
http://www.dubfusion.com/car_audio/installation/door_install_02.jpg

I think I'll try to use MDF again but I'll seal it and treat it, because when i took everything out after two years it cracked and fell apart due to the heat here in Vegas.

How do you like the CDTs? I've been thinking about getting them for my TC but I've never heard them in person.

^^ i wish i had those, but mine are clean!!!! I have the CDT EF-61CFi's powered with the JL 300/2! :)

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/7/web/2083000-2083999/2083616_162_full.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/7/web/2083000-2083999/2083616_160_full.jpg

hahaha, carbon fiber, I like...

thanks for the templates! they work great man, thats good stuff. :D i'll take some pix of mine, i gotta deaden the door a bit more then i'll post it up. thanks again :)

post them eujin with your amazing camera! :)

errr two questions.

3.3 inches for mounting depth? Is that measuring from sheet metal to the back of the door? Why isnt anyone considering with the window down, as that's obviously pretty important....
I get a little under 2.5" with the window down.

Also, how did you possibly screw the baffle in with bolts and nuts behind them if you cant reach the nuts to stop them from spinning??

this is pretty sweet....

The eurosports are not all they are cracked up to be. I went from them to DLS Iridiums and then to Boston Z6. The Iridiums sounded the best with the Z6 close behind and the Eurosport significantly behind them. In my install for the tC I am thinking about going custom using a DLS Prototype midbass 8" if I can fit it without too much work, a Scan speak 4" revelator and LPG tweeters.

Excellent advice. Decent install. The rear speakers in the tC just don't do it justice.
But, I was wondering if you could give a clue as to how to remove the panel for the rears. In most Toyotas, you remove the seats, and then pull gently on the panel to unclip it.
This is my first new car (for ME!) in TWENTY YEARS (my last one was a...Hachiroku...)
So, since I have an '85 Corolla, an '85 Celica and an '88 Supra, thing may have changed in 18 years! :)

If someone could give a hint, it would be appreciated

Check out this post, it shows how to rip just about everything out of your tC...


http://www.scionlife.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=45238

Yeah, I found that! Good info. I did the rears last week, but I mounted them with Honda baskets I had hanging around. It made the sound a lot better.

I put 5" MB Quarts in the rear. I just made the baffles for the front today. They are not readily available commercially; Crutchfield has an 'adapter', but they didn't look very good, and you can get some Mazda adapters from Metra, but they don't look real good, either.

I made mine from some old melamine shelving I had hanging around, 3/4" thick, and used the template from here. Tomorrow's project!

Thanks for the link, though!

I dug up my 'spare' pair of MB Quart 6.5 inchers, and set to the task of
drilling the rivets out of the stock speakers. It actually went a lot
better than I had expected.

I made the mounts from some old shelving using the template from
ScionLife; make them just a shade meatier if you do this. In a couple
spots, when you cut the 6-6.25 inch hole for the speakers, it's a little
'thin' in a spot or two, but the design is pretty good!

Also, cut a notch for the wire! Otherwise, you'll have to pinch it
somewhere. I cut about a 1/16" notch and pressed the wiring into it, and then mounted the speaker.

I made a cheesy 'harness' to connect the Quarts to the stock wiring,
mounted the first Quart and went to screw it in.

That's when I noticed the speaker surround was separating from the frame! I knew the older Quarts were notorious for needing to be repaired, but didn't know why. Now I know.

So, I got out my 'Velcro' glue and glued the rubber back to the frame and 'clamped' it with a dozen clothespins. A quick inspection of the second speaker revealed even worse separation!

(As a note, Velcro glue is EXCELLENT! It is made to adhere Velcro strips to more porous materials like Pressboard, etc, but it has a million uses! I used it to repair some broken plastic pieces in my Supra, and even used it to glue the metal clips onto the trim around the doorlocks on the same car. They are notorious for having the clips loosen and fall off, but it's been 2 years and still holding)

While waiting for the glue to dry, I drilled out the second speaker and
mounted the adapter and made up the wiring. By this time it was a little
more than an hour, so I checked and the glue was sufficiently dry to mount the speakers.

So, now I have 5" Quarts in the rear, and 6.5" Quarts in the front, and
what a difference! It sounds pretty good. I have to turn it up a bit more
than with the 'cheap' speakers that came with the car, but the quality is
certainly rewarding!

And, another note: the Quarts I used had a tweeter in them; I left the
factory tweeter in palce and just added the 6'5s complete, since the stock 6.5 is a 4 ohm speaker and the Quarts are 4 ohms overall. Actually, a tweeter appears on the system more as a capacitance, so I don't believe there will be any problems with balancing as far as the stock head unit's amp is concerned. It sounds good!

And, one more little tip: high frequencies are VERY directional, where as lows are not. GENTLY bend the tweeter bracket on the driver's door to face more towards you. It makes a BIG difference! You can also relocate the one on the passenger's door, but because of it's position, it doesn't have to be moved a lot. The highs will be a LOT clearer!

If I decide to upgrade the head unit and add an amp, that's going to have to wait for Spring. It sounds decent enough as is, though!

One More thing....the plastic does not extend behind the speakers as on other Toys I have (had) with speakers in the doors. The backs of the speakers are open to the elements that make their way through the window slot, vents, drains, etc.

So, you may want to get some heavy plastic, similar to what is on the door, and some 'goop', and put the plastic behind your nice, prolly expensive replacement speakers.
You can get nice, heavy plastic at any hardware or home supply store. I would think, if you want a nice, shaped piece, you could place it over a 'butter bucket' (one of those tubs margarine comes in) and hit it with a hair dryer to form it a little bit, and then goop it to the door and trap it behind the mounting bracket.

This will keep your nice speakers from getting wet! Esp if they are paper cone, and you may actually be able to remove the connectors when you want to remove them!

Some dielectric grease will aid in trhis, also!

errr two questions.

3.3 inches for mounting depth? Is that measuring from sheet metal to the back of the door? Why isnt anyone considering with the window down, as that's obviously pretty important....
I get a little under 2.5" with the window down.

The window was not a factor with mounting depth. However -- you do need to make sure your deadening is pressed firmly in place on in inside of the door or else your window can catch the adhesive and put some stress on the motor and can leave ugly sticky spots on your window. (I learned)


Also, how did you possibly screw the baffle in with bolts and nuts behind them if you cant reach the nuts to stop them from spinning??


You screw the baffle in WITHOUT the speaker in them. You can then reach your hand inside and tighten the nuts. THEN, you mount your speakers to the baffle.
WHA LA!

I used your templates to make a mounting panel out of .5" MDF. I then attached a 3/4" mdf ring to that in order to space out the speaker since mine had a huge mounting depth. After cutting off the trim around the inside of the speaker grille on the door, it fit like a charm. This would be a good option for anyone who plans to go with a deep woofer.

Thanks alot for sharing your work.

what speaker did you use bb

Alpine Type-X components (SPX-177R)

Really nice set for the price (aound 200 shipped)
The midbass driver is VERY deep though

great info,
going to install my infinity 6.1 soon.

Link doesn't work :( Can someone PM me the link to the templates?

Thanks!

Me too please. I would like some templates.