I know that we have not been very forthcoming with pictures of our kit but we have been very worried about others stealing our design. When we are accosted by a competitor we became irritated. The below dyno is of one of our project TC-t this car has a stage 0 kit on it with FMIC and External. This run was made on 6.5 pounds of boost. The car is 100% stock other than a axle back. This car has a stock S-pipe and all stock exhaust piping.

Enjoy the video post up questions………….

http://www.zpiracing.net/sciondyno.WMV

Here is the dyno chart.

ftp://zeropoi0:success1@www.zeropointindustries.net/h24/zeropoi0/images/scion%20Dyno%20graph.JPG

holy mother of God.

:love: ZPI

holy crap..now i'm convinced to buy stage 2!!

kick ___ :bow:

when will this kit be available?

Holy mother of God...I must have this....now....right now....

Dyno didn't come up please repost.

Holy mother of God...I must have this....now....right now....

Dyno didn't come up please repost. what he said to the 10th power!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

hey uh can i get one for my xb lol!!!

Just to clarify the stage 0 with out the FMIC makes almost the exact power. The intercooler is really not helping this efficent turbo at 6psi. we are at full boost on 6psi with a fmic by 2500 rpm. You stage 0 guys should see full boost by 2300.

-zpi

Holy Crap! I think I'm gonna cream my shorts!

http://www.zpiracing.net/images/scion%20Dyno%20graph.JPG

that should work for the dyno graph guys. thanks.

Cool thanks! So where can we get info on the kit...what comes with it, how much $$ and how easily can it be upgraded?

Holy crap If i had that on my car i would be so dead.

Info on the kit can be found here

http://www.scionlife.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=59080

whoa momma. very nice. :clap:

Looks good guys - I cant wait for my stage 1 now! I left you guys a couple messages during your move, but Ill try calling again tomorrow to finalize my preorder. :D

try putting that power down on an autocross course with an open diff.. yikes...

also, what kind of dyno is that?

With the stage 0 kit do you have to run premium? Might it be possible to run regular 86 with the stage 0 kit if you run it with a FMIC?

You mean 87 octane? I've never seen 86 :P

Anyway, I wonder what the numbers are w/ a catback system and an S-pipe.

I don't work for ZPI, but I can tell you they'd most like suggest that you stick with 91+ octane fuel.

86 doesn't cut it at all for boost, even on a stock turbo'd car.

You mean 87 octane? I've never seen 86 :P

Anyway, I wonder what the numbers are w/ a catback system and an S-pipe.

woops, hit the wrong #, it is 87.

Yeah, from what I hear whenever you add boost, it's recommended you go to premium.

definitely gonna want to run premium guys. sucks you guys out in california only get crappy 91 octane. but it will do the trick! :P

definitely gonna want to run premium guys. sucks you guys out in california only get crappy 91 octane. but it will do the trick! :P

East coast is where it's at haha! I get 93 less than 1 min from my house, and we can get up to 110 for racing at the track. :)

Well the only reason that you have to run a higher octane with a turbo is to prevent pre detonation due to the higher temperatures. I was thinking that if you could lower the temperatures with a FMIC, you wouldn't have to worry about knocking, and could run regular, which would be really cool since I dont really want to pay premium prices.

as long as you dont get crappy Holiday Blue Planet 93 octane..you'll be fine..LOL..

Me I've always been on Non-Oxygenated gas..turbo loves Non-oxygenated gas

:pray: :pray: :pray: I have so much spank down lined up already :pray: :pray: starting with the boss's RSX-S and working my way on down to the van driver's Hemi truck.....

We have never tried to run these cars on 87 but I would not suggest it. The money you spend on the FMIC could go to good gas!!!

I would suggest lowering the boost rather than running a FMIC as 6 psi the intercooler is really not doing anything anyway.

The dyno is a Mustang Dyno.

We just wanted to show the possibilites of our kits and that all of our published #'s were very conservative as we are not in the business of making a bunch of power that can not be duplicated by you. We got called liar's yesterday by our competitor so we wanted to post some proof for the non belivers.

The Scion in the video is the same Scion the we sprayed a 120 shot on. It has also been used as a truck, a basketball goal holder, hail catcher and FWD drift machine. To say that we have beat the ____ out of it would be an understatment. This car has to be one the most worn out Scions in the world and it continue's to hold togther and show no signs of detonation. We will continue to bring you the quality products that you expect from us. We are a little behind right now but be patient and the parts will be there.

Carb numbers are gold in california. I think i'll wait for the greddy or hks.

If it takes two years to get an intake thru carb, um it will take 20 years for a turbo.. Are there any aftermarket ULEV turbo kits I mean really?
Were talking $2400 for a kit not GREEDY's price gotta pay for eye candy in some adds $4000.00 due out in about some time after I sell my tC and into my next ride. I say if you want true performance shipping SOON, better call ZPI :love: or you will be bumming. I'll be KNOW soon and I'll be bods slamming on the streets of Austin, not some sitting on the fence waiting for vaporware. Come on Tim, ya know wa wanna play too. My advice is move out of CA, anyplace that don't let you mod your ride ain't worth living.

do you have the air fuel ratio? when it was on the dyno?

very nice man. Gotta get one.

So the stage 0 kit does not come with a downpipe?

Did you dyno it before the turbo? What were the baseline numbers?

:shock: there are gonna be so many honda's up for sale if this gets out :rofl:

Carb numbers are gold in california. I think i'll wait for the greddy or hks.

Again, I wonder how those boys in LA did it? THey mod their car like crazy but still on the road. Unless they sell the car after five years (assuming new car), else it gonna be "for off road use only" after that. :rofl:

thats what im talking about you got 5 years to drive it.... just dont be stupid and go out street racing all the time and get caught

:shock: there are gonna be so many honda's up for sale if this gets out :rofl:

lol :rofl: :rofl: :P

The A/f were 11.2 all the way across the range. This car was on the dyno yesterday with 80degrees heat and a lot of humidity.

the Stage o kit comes with a downpipe and a S-pipe if you preorder. After the preorder the S-pipe will be extra. This car was dynoed with out a s-pipe to show what the car can do when everythign else is stock.

We have no plans on being Carb legal.

Well the only reason that you have to run a higher octane with a turbo is to prevent pre detonation due to the higher temperatures.

Not true. It is to prevent detonation in the cylinder due to the increase cylinder pressure which is directly related to the mechanical compression ratio of the engine and directly related to the total size of the ingested charge volume, that is going be squeezed by the predetermined mechanical compression ratio. The is a direct relation between ingested air temps and peak air temp before combustion but since this relation is based on absolute zero P=VxTemp the 60 degrees or so lower charge temp for an intercooler in this setups yields little change in peak pre-ignition cylinder temps. I should also add that you should be thinking in total quantity and an intercooler will make the charge cooler and denser so volume will go up and then this is going to be squeezed at 9.7 to 1 and if you check out the gas law above you will see there is a direct 10x rise in temps due to mechanical compression. To put it in a nutshell you need to look at ways to lower peak cylinder pressure via: water cooling, lower mechanical CR, lower volume of charge, retarding of ignition timing, and yes the lowering of the temp of ingested air IF boost is also lowered so overall charge volume is constant. Contemplate on it and get back to me.



I was thinking that if you could lower the temperatures with a FMIC, you wouldn't have to worry about knocking, and could run regular, which would be really cool since I dont really want to pay premium prices.

I’ve run low boost turbo on my the oldlady’s last ride: a 2001 Volvo 1.9 turbo 9.0 CR about 200 BHP at 8 to 10PSI. Via water injection. The intercooler does help in this equation by letting me LOWER boost slightly and still have the same charge volume due to denser cooler air and slightly lower cylinder pressure. I should add since the temps delta are very low at normal usage the intercooler has to be MASSIVE with very long tube to get the charge close to ambient.

You may post on my oldman turbo build up thread if you want more information on running boost on cheap fuel. I’m a skin flint.

I will add that what I’m doing is no condoned nor supported by ZPI, as they have more common sense then I…

I’ve run low boost turbo on my the oldlady’s last ride: a 2001 Volvo 1.9 turbo 9.0 CR about 200 BHP at 8 to 10PSI. Via water injection. The intercooler does help in this equation by letting me LOWER boost slightly and still have the same charge volume due to denser cooler air and slightly lower cylinder pressure. I should add since the temps delta are very low at normal usage the intercooler has to be MASSIVE with very long tube to get the charge close to ambient.

You may post on my oldman turbo build up thread if you want more information on running boost on cheap fuel. I’m a skin flint.


Couple of questions.....

1. Were you able to run regular on the Volvo at that 8-10 PSI? If so, it seems to me that running 6 PSI with your same Volvo setup is feasible.

2. How does the water injection work? Do you have to be constantly spraying to maintain the same boost? If so how much water is used/how much water must you carry around with you?

3. Can you link me to your turbo build up thread?

http://www.zpiracing.net/images/sciondyno.JPG

damnnn, now i dont know whether to save cash up for the Stage 0 or the Supercharger? lol

oldman, what would be the proper procedure to break-in a new turbo? i've been to a few shops here in orlando. they recommend that i do not go full throttle(or drive like an ___) for the first 1K miles after the install. what are your recommendations? thanks

The A/f were 11.2 all the way across the range. This car was on the dyno yesterday with 80degrees heat and a lot of humidity.

the Stage o kit comes with a downpipe and a S-pipe if you preorder. After the preorder the S-pipe will be extra. This car was dynoed with out a s-pipe to show what the car can do when everythign else is stock.

We have no plans on being Carb legal.

Good job guys, but do you have a dyno of the Stage 0 kit the way it will be sold without the intercooler? Also how come you guys didn't use a DynoJet?

I think you both right. Increased pressure due to compression and the centrifugal turbo will contribute to higher temperature, which in turn may trigger pre detonation. Of course, the weather play a role here too. Here in CA we only have 91, hopefully, that will do it.

Btw, 11.2 A/f seems a little bit rich, or am I wrong? Could somebody enlighten me what is the perfect A/F that the car need to maintain?

I wonder if emanage may give us a better results.

We used what we have locally. We do not have our dyno yet and the dynojet is farther away.

11.2 is a bit rich but it is safe. We would rather suffer a little power and be safe than push the envelope to make a little more power. We are happy with the way the car is running.

Couple of questions.....

1. Were you able to run regular on the Volvo at that 8-10 PSI? If so, it seems to me that running 6 PSI with your same Volvo setup is feasible.

I should say upto as there were a few setups. Volvo has very sophisticated knock retard and there are MANY Volvo owners that run regular fuel in their light pressure turbo Volvo (even some bozos that do it in their high pressure setups). So it is easily doable at stock power levels with little noticeable performance degradation. The addition of water injections allow to run chip type programs and regular fuel about 200 BHP with other mods such as exhaust.

2. How does the water injection work? Do you have to be constantly spraying to maintain the same boost? If so how much water is used/how much water must you carry around with you?

3. Can you link me to your turbo build up thread?

http://www.clubsciontc.com/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=3747


I should also note that no only weather but how the car is used will determine what is the minimum octane that can be run. A car that is rev through the gears, driver only 5 speed is going to take a lot less octane then somebody lugging a trailer up the Rockies in high gear with a car load of people. Pre-ignition is far more sensitive to engine load then to normal ambient temps and humidity, especially with water injection already cooling and slowing the flame front. My Volvo had NO audible pinging in any cheap gas scenario.

the ZPI kit is definitly nice. Love the sound and love the numbers... But here in cali if you are driving and a cop hears or sees when those numbers on the street. yer screwed. Better safe than sorry. If i didn't live in cali i'd be all over this kit.

right, so get the stage zero, it will be grandma Camry silent just a little turbo woosh, no cop calling intercooler, just smack down under the hood on demand. Think of it as a safety device... don't leave home without one. :P

yah. I think i have a lil more smarts than to go all the way up to redline next to a cop. But around here they are pretty sneaky... especially the ones on two wheels :P The zpi kit sounded very impressive. Even when he was just revving the engine and I heard the turbo spool up it was all ear to ear.

Just think of that RSX-S being SPANKED from that stock tC, think of the glorious sound of the turbo woosh under the command of your right foot. It is all machismo :love: when you hear the GF talk about the new “secret weapon” under the hood… something like Gwen," I just here this woosh and I get pushed back into the seat, Tim he is just like speed racer and I feel like Trixie. Not like that other looser I was dating with a fart pipe that was slower then stock"... I serious here, chicks dig guys that know their cars and are packing under the hood, not somebody trolling in mom’s Accord or some poser with a large TIP bolted to a stock tC….

Lol oldman you are a character hehe. There is a civic si (or should i say "was"?" down the street from me. Just added a bolt on turbo w/ a fmic and he said he's only running 210 whp... I love the way the 2az responds to mods. Not sure how much boost he was running, but 6.5 psi isn't by far a lot of boost and zpi is getting a good 35 whp over the civic (he didn't tell me his torque numbers but i am sure the zpi is far better than his numbers). Why should i say "was" you ask? Cause on the civic's maiden voyage with its new wheels and added power. The fuktards he got to put on the WHEELS, yes i said "wheels" folks, Not turbo kit... not intercooler.. WHEELS, didn't tighten his lugs no where near tight enough and his passenger side front wheel flew off and he pretty much totalled his new toy he just spend 3.5 grand on. Now the civic does the 1/4 just a lil bit slower than my uncles tow truck... (the truck crosses the line b4 the actual civic does) :P

anyhow zpi, is there any chance that you will be putting out a kit for the other scions ex: xa? cause that would just kick azzz.

So will this product come with a warranty???? :relief:

well not the Toyota OEM engine warranty. stage 0 should be safe enough IMO. Come a point to ask if your a player or a poser....

I wanted a warranty, but looks like that's a fools wait. I went with ZPI, cause I could have far more power, far sooner for far cheaper, never had a warranty on my other rides to speak of, not a powertrain warranty that is. I figure 6 hours on and if I needed to 6 hours off, this kit should NOT touch any stock part...

2 questions....

will the stage 0 be safe on the automatic transmission? 250whp seems like a lot for the stock tranny to hold, or should we wait out for an auto tranny upgrade kit?

and the second question...
theres no tuning at all that needs to be done with the ECU? i know you said everything is stock, but is the stock ECU tuned at all?
thanks for everything

They are using a GReddy emanage piggyback unit for ECU tuning.

Toyota makes strong stuff I think the auto can take stage 0. I kind of like auto's and turbo like on the oldlady's last two cars.

I hope they keep their schedule and ship out next week....that IS the first week of June. :nails:

IMO, I think the auto TC matches great with this stage 0 kit. Spooling starts around 2k :bow: sweeet :clap:

right 255 ish BHP, auto, near instant spool, talking about packing under the hood.. The only way to drive an auto, think of all the smack down with RSX-S, they would be LOL till the light turned green. you would just walkum from the get go and by 40 MPH you would be running away. Camry silent too, not even the BOV, no turbo spool down between shifts... sweet... the Honda wouldn't know what hitum. He be scratching his head for weeks... No turbo lag with an auto after first gear and even there the tC got more then enough to move out smartly.

just a q for the zpi kids.. what type of bov is this? is it recirculated with the stage 0 kit? have you had any problems with auto transmissions + heat? what sort of tuning?

if there's another thread with this info already in it, please send me that way so i'm not OT :)

I don't know but I intend to put the BOV back into the intake either before or after the MAF depending on what ZPI tells me. I don't like the sound of a BOV, I'll take an OEM type bypass setup anytime.

On an auto you will not get into the BOV in most cases as you use WOT start to finish as you don't need to shift, so no closure of the TB, so no reversion surge to by pass via BOV, of course you could lift during the shift but it will confuse the trans and slow you down...

you need a BOV on an auto to avoid boost spikes

EBC + BOV for an auto to keep from surging during shifts.

you want the BOV BEFORE the MAF because if it meters air there. if it meters air and then vents, it'll richen the car up and bog down.

yeah at 6.5 PSI on a 2.4 liter engine.. um not really. but I digress.

I know it will run rich but if ZPI set the kit up as a BOV then venting it after the MAF may cause other issues. Like I said I don't know and I'll let ZPI tell me. OEM is of course after the MAF to prevent the running rich, but this ain't OEM.

5.8psi on a 3.0l auto the problem existed. i don't see any difference here. the EBC helped and the recirc stopped them completely.

i'd like to see what their setup is also. i'm not sure if thats something they're not releasing details on yet though

What problem is that?

IMO The engine speed may change say 15% on a shift the intake charge reverb wave over a .25 - .50 second spin down due to the drivetrain load can't be more then 10% of the total applied boost. In this case that is should be about .65 PSI, a non-issue for an auto at this boost level, with this turbo. You will be hard pressed to even get the BOV to pop at all. IMO. This is a far cry from a closed TB where the reverb wave is massive and can shut the blade off, or even blow it off(called turbo bark). There were millions of low boost turbos OEM sans BOV / diverter valve so IMO can't see too much of a problem.

boost spikes. turbo kit on a 3rd gen eclispse (another NA car converted to FI). it had a little bit longer shift time than the tC though. hopefully the tC won't have that problem.

need some ZPI folks to clear it up LOL

Grand Nationals run with no BOV. I think it'd be ok. :)

matty what boost, is this an auto? 1/2 the kits like fmax and Greddyetc don't even have a BOV on the base kit 5 speed or auto. IMO as stated above I don't even think you can get the BOV to pop with an auto between shifts.

The ZPI kit has a BOV, so there are no questions at least about the BOV...

its a .48 housing.. not sure about the trim. t3/t4 on @ 5.8psi with tial wastegate. running on a non-intercooled 6g72 (3.0L in 3rd gen eclipses). it was a sportstronic but it did it in automode and "manual"

how bad was the surge as the auto shifter?

enough to throw AF up to 15-16
harmful when you're racing or full throttle

sounds more like a diverter valve would help, still would have to trigger it via ECU control cause I don't think you could trip the valve via the mechnical BOV/ diverter setup.

well the EBC really helped. not only did it kill the spikes but the power curve (boost curve really) was much wider with quicker spooling. i believe it was a profec but it really made a huge difference.

fuzzy logic? cost? You know I got only $2400 into the ZPI stage zero.

yeah I didn't understand it either other than a bad wastegate and BOV setup.

profec was around $200 or less.

damn i was gone for the weekend and have been missing out on this. good job zpi, great numbers and now the next few weeks are going to go slower than ever. i have a full cat back custom exhaust and will be running with no intercooler for a while. i wonder if with the s-pipe, and the full cat back, if i will be putting down the same or better numbers than this.......cant wait to find out.

omg.......that car's a monster now.......I LOVE IT!

note the sound... not some blap, blap, blap, but REAL HP. ZPI :love:

I am so excited, i am speechless. Those are pretty good numbers for the amount of psi you guys are boosting.

Hopefully i will be stage 1 sometime around next year.

stage 1 and stage 2 WOW and WOWWWW. I did not go for stage 1 as I want to be 100% stealth, and I know I'd be crazy... even at my age.

Thanks for the praise. We are very happy with all the results and testing that we have had thus far.

We took the Stage 0 car to the track and we are trapping 83mph in the 1/8 on 6.5 psi this is the same as stock C5 vettes.

The biggest thing that you need to look at is the power graph the car has instant power and holds it all the way to redline. This is not only a 100% more power than stock but it peaks and holds a lot better than almost anything on the road.

-zpi

Stealth....screw stealth i want to be loud as hell, and want to be a beast....O_O
stage 0 is tight, but i think mine will be somewhere in between probably.

Dare I ask if a LSD is optional with this much horsepower? If you guys are, what kind are you using? What other drivetrain modifications would be recommeded?

At this time we are running the stock open diff.

On this car we are using the stock clutch for now but we recomend clutch masters. We have great luck with them thus far.

At this time we are running the stock open diff.

On this car we are using the stock clutch for now but we recomend clutch masters. We have great luck with them thus far.

Have any attempts been made to R&D this turbo on an auto? I have a 4sp i PM you guys over the weekend got @3gs to burn but im wondering if this setup will bork my auto tranny? Also any responses in regards to the whole auto setup and the BOV valve will be nice. Waiting for response ZPI. :)

Soooo nice!, You have a car with this kit in FLA you say? Where at exactly...

We took the Stage 0 car to the track and we are trapping 83mph in the 1/8 on 6.5 psi this is the same as stock C5 vettes.


83 MPH in the 1/8 is about um x1.24= 103 MPH in the 1/4 or somewhere into the low or mid 13 second range which is sick for a stage zero even with the upgrade intercooler. SICK I tell you.... :nails:

The biggest thing that you need to look at is the power graph the car has instant power and holds it all the way to redline. This is not only a 100% more power than stock but it peaks and holds a lot better than almost anything on the road.

-zpi

You mean the 250 ft-lbs to the wheels from 3800 RPM to 5000 RPM near double what a RSX-S puts out :love: :love: Kind of like having two VTEC engines under the hood ! :love: :love:

I gotta tell you ZPI, you are given me way too much, I only wanted to be able to beat RSX-S not DESTROY them. :clap: :clap:

I'm pretty much sold on this kit as I used to drive a turbo eclipse and just love the way it gives you a kick in your ___ feeling when you go WOT.

What I am wondering though is how reliable is putting a turbo on our cars be, I understand that ZPI has a scion that is beaten on, but will this upgrade last me years? Will it be able to hold the boost like a 4G63 from an eclpse or evo 5 years from now?

Thx guys again.

The engine is kind of like built for a forced induction as Toyota via TRD puts superchargers on these. The engine does NOT have oil jets for the underside of the piston, it also lacks an iron block which should not be a problem at sub 10 PSI. But no stock for stock the Mitsu engine is stronger but heavier and for insane power levels the Mitsu engine would be a better platform IMO, the Mistsu just looks bad..

If it's a mid 13s 1/4 mile car, then what would be the 0-60 mph acc time? I am guessing low 5s.

0-60 is all about traction my friend and sans LSD and DR, you ain't gonna be there. I had a turbo GS-R with LSD and was running sticky street tires. low 6's is all I could do and I drove the car every day. Maybe launched it 1000 times or more. Very very hard to put a normal street tired normal street suspension FWD into the 12's.

I for one don't want the nose down, butt in the air, DR in front FWD 1/4 mile suspension. So I know I will never 0-60 like a STI, or a Camaro.

We took the Stage 0 car to the track and we are trapping 83mph in the 1/8 on 6.5 psi this is the same as stock C5 vettes.


83 MPH in the 1/8 is about um x1.24= 103 MPH in the 1/4 or somewhere into the low or mid 13 second range which is sick for a stage zero even with the upgrade intercooler. SICK I tell you.... :nails:

The biggest thing that you need to look at is the power graph the car has instant power and holds it all the way to redline. This is not only a 100% more power than stock but it peaks and holds a lot better than almost anything on the road.

-zpi

You mean the 250 ft-lbs to the wheels from 3800 RPM to 5000 RPM near double what a RSX-S puts out :love: :love: Kind of like having two VTEC engines under the hood ! :love: :love:

I gotta tell you ZPI, you are given me way too much, I only wanted to be able to beat RSX-S not DESTROY them. :clap: :clap:

Yep, RSX-S is running 9.4-9.6 @ 75-77mph in the 1/8, even blowing the tires off in 1st and 2nd, the scion is pulling in a 83mph trap @ 9.1.

I <3 it.

I'm pretty much sold on this kit as I used to drive a turbo eclipse and just love the way it gives you a kick in your ___ feeling when you go WOT.

What I am wondering though is how reliable is putting a turbo on our cars be, I understand that ZPI has a scion that is beaten on, but will this upgrade last me years? Will it be able to hold the boost like a 4G63 from an eclpse or evo 5 years from now?

Thx guys again.

It's tough to compare a factory turbo'd car to a aftermarket turbo car.. but I wouldn't expect a moderaterly modded DSM to hold up for more than a couple years anyway.

If you practice mechanical empathy, it'll probably last a long time. :)

The engine is kind of like built for a forced induction as Toyota via TRD puts superchargers on these. The engine does NOT have oil jets for the underside of the piston, it also lacks an iron block which should not be a problem at sub 10 PSI. But no stock for stock the Mitsu engine is stronger but heavier and for insane power levels the Mitsu engine would be a better platform IMO, the Mistsu just looks bad..

I guess that makes sense, Toyota knew they were gonna put out a supercharger for the car, so I guess adding a turbo is the same thing if you are running low boost. Does anyone know how much boost is the supercharger gonna put in the car? Ive heard of people blowing their engines trying to turbo a 420A N\T Eclipse engine (Donge Neon Engine) running 8 psi, but we all now Mitsubishi is Satan encarnated in a car company. I know the reason I bought my Scion (apart from its sexy looks), is because I wanted something reliable, not a super fast car, but a moddable car at that, I didnt even think I was gonna be thinking forced induction already (400miles on my odometer). Thx for all the info again guys.

ZPI's Kenny took the time to speak with me today on the phone. Great bunch of guys... very informative...

I was worried that some welds may need to be made and a hole drilled to the oil pan like most other turbo kits... The Stage 0 is completely "Bolt On" that means that a simple novice wrencher like myself should have this bad boy installed in a day!

I am so excited...

Hey is anyone running a turbo timer to shut their engine off after a few minutes so the turbo can cool? What brand would you recommend for the best price?

ZPI's Kenny took the time to speak with me today on the phone. Great bunch of guys... very informative...

I was worried that some welds may need to be made and a hole drilled to the oil pan like most other turbo kits... The Stage 0 is completely "Bolt On" that means that a simple novice wrencher like myself should have this bad boy installed in a day!

I am so excited...

Hey is anyone running a turbo timer to shut their engine off after a few minutes so the turbo can cool? What brand would you recommend for the best price?

Just curious, if it's not connected to the oil pan, how are we supposed to cool the turbo, especially the bearing? Did Kenny meantion an alternative to cooling?

Im pretty sure the kit uses a banjo-type fitting for the oil return line like the GReddy kit for the RSX and such - so the oil actually returns through the drain plug.

For a turbo timer, My Compustar Alarm/Remote Start has a built in turbo timer! :D

On my old DSM I had an HKS Turbo Timer, worked just like it should. Though it was a bit big, (older model), I recommend the Apex-I, it is the size of a pen.

Those are only like 70 bucks... Let me know ;)

aHHHHHHHH!!!! I want one so bad i can heat the turbo spool as i sleep!!!!1

Im pretty sure the kit uses a banjo-type fitting for the oil return line like the GReddy kit for the RSX and such - so the oil actually returns through the drain plug. For a turbo timer, My Compustar Alarm/Remote Start has a built in turbo timer! :D

Yes VIP_tC, you are correct. Kenny at ZPI stated that the turbo kit uses a Greddy oil return drain plug type valve.

Hows' the weather up there in Montana? I will be Fly Fishing the Bitter Root River this 4th of July! 8)

Im pretty sure the kit uses a banjo-type fitting for the oil return line like the GReddy kit for the RSX and such - so the oil actually returns through the drain plug. For a turbo timer, My Compustar Alarm/Remote Start has a built in turbo timer! :D

Yes VIP_tC, you are correct. Kenny at ZPI stated that the turbo kit uses a Greddy oil return drain plug type valve.

Hows' the weather up there in Montana? I will be Fly Fishing the Bitter Root River this 4th of July! 8)
Well, its been fairly nice except rainy off and on. And the wind seems to want to blow a little more than usual right now. Hopefully we will have a nice summer :)

Correct, it's a banjo type fitting on the oil return.

At this time we are running the stock open diff.

On this car we are using the stock clutch for now but we recomend clutch masters. We have great luck with them thus far.

stay away from puck clutches!

5.8psi on a 3L v6 we blew a diff and bent axles with a spec stage 3 (3rd gen eclipse)

but then again, i have an auto tC so i just need a high stall :)

The A/f were 11.2 all the way across the range. This car was on the dyno yesterday with 80degrees heat and a lot of humidity.

the Stage o kit comes with a downpipe and a S-pipe if you preorder. After the preorder the S-pipe will be extra. This car was dynoed with out a s-pipe to show what the car can do when everythign else is stock.

We have no plans on being Carb legal.

Good job guys, but do you have a dyno of the Stage 0 kit the way it will be sold without the intercooler? Also how come you guys didn't use a DynoJet?

Dynojets are useless, why don't people understand this? They are inconsistant, and they are crap for trying to tune. Mustang Dyno's produce much better, more consistant numbers and are actually on the lower side when compared to a Dynojet.

Awesome numbers guys.

dynojets are usually what manufacturers of cheap performance parts use to make their parts look better LOL

I understand dynos, I ran one for a while. It is ture that the dynojet has no programable load and thus it is harder to tune a turbo car. But do you want to try tune a turbo car on a load? I think not as the engine can and does go to instant destruction if everything is not JUST right.

The dyno jet is very very very accurate as it takes the same amount of HP no matter what to turn the 6000 lbs rollers. You are smoking crack if you think a programable load via pump is more accurate. The dynojet is 100% accurate when it comes to as measured HP. Now there are ways to cheat by adding in a correction factor etc, same same vs Mustang, Bosch, etc. The facts.....

and so far, no one has been able to answer the question if the tCs auto tranny can handle the stage0 kit.

stage zero and the TRD supercharger same same the trans should take the torque load and the tC is lighter then say a Camry..

they are not the same, the turbocharger is putting out a lot more power than the projected numbers of the TRD supercharger

HP maybe but it is torque that blows the trans, so 200 ft-lbs for the TRD and 255 for the turbo. OK so find out what else uses the trans and they you know if it can take it. Like does the V6 use the same trans if so you are good to go. If not um well you going to have to wait for somebody to start building up automatics. I still think within reason 255 ft-lbs is not unreasonable. N20 has far more driveline stress and we know there are guys running that with their ma's Camry on the weekends, present company excluded, I used to N20 my ma's Corolla and go Honda trolling.

HP maybe but it is torque that blows the trans, so 200 ft-lbs for the TRD and 255 for the turbo. OK so find out what else uses the trans and they you know if it can take it. Like does the V6 use the same trans if so you are good to go. If not um well you going to have to wait for somebody to start building up automatics. I still think within reason 255 ft-lbs is not unreasonable. N20 has far more driveline stress and we know there are guys running that with their ma's Camry on the weekends, present company excluded, I used to N20 my ma's Corolla and go Honda trolling.

How does nitrous have any more driveline stress? You make no sense.

I understand dynos, I ran one for a while. It is ture that the dynojet has no programable load and thus it is harder to tune a turbo car. But do you want to try tune a turbo car on a load? I think not as the engine can and does go to instant destruction if everything is not JUST right.

The dyno jet is very very very accurate as it takes the same amount of HP no matter what to turn the 6000 lbs rollers. You are smoking crack if you think a programable load via pump is more accurate. The dynojet is 100% accurate when it comes to as measured HP. Now there are ways to cheat by adding in a correction factor etc, same same vs Mustang, Bosch, etc. The facts.....

Your facts are skewed, Dynojets (besides the one NEW model with load control) aren't good for anything but peak numbers. Tuning on a load bearing dyno is the only way to do it. Not all Dynojets use 6000lb rollers either, infact almost every one doesn't. The problem is, the cars don't weigh the same as the roller so the load is unrealistic and cannot be adjusted on all but one Dynojet style, which most any shop WONT have. You cannot accurately tune on a dynojet, period. Argue with me all you want, facts are facts.

Sorry for the thread jack. Numbers look great guys!

yawn, it takes a pre-calculated amount of wheel HP to accelerate the weight of the dynojet rollers, the amount of HP is very precise as the weight of the rollers does not change during the run and the RPM delta can be very accurately measured. It is true and exact HP. That is the fact based on fundamental physical laws. So much for your inaccuracy statement is how do I say this? WRONG. :silly:

Tuning on a loaded dyno. Gee um where does this come into the dynojet is bogus HP. . Hey it’s true, if you have weeks and weeks of time and want to tune under a zillion conditions you can squeeze more WHP out of a car tuned on a loadable dyno. Big deal, the loadable dyno can’t help you with every conceivable condition and the closer you slice the max HP pie the closer you are to engine destruction. I’d rather leave my daily driver tC at 6.5 PSI of boost with a conservative amount of ignition advance, and fuel enrichment. So what there is 10 more WHP to be found? That 10 more WHP can get you into lots of trouble like when you have a slightly clogged injector, or a tank of gas that was not really 93 octane, or there is a heat wave and it is 110 degrees out. Are you going to say that the greater tune does NOT come by pushing the parameters? The reality of the situation is the greater tune-ability on a loadable dyno really only helps when you are building a trailer queen race car where the approximate loads can be calculated and hence simulated. On the street where the loads can vary from minimal to lugging the car up a mountain road in high gear, there is nothing to be gained via an optimal tune per load as no load can be calculated. :doh:

anyone have a wiring diagram to hook up a turbo timer?

anyone have a wiring diagram to hook up a turbo timer?
bumpy?

How about a turbo timer with a tC wiring harness, are they out yet?

no but you can get the apexi one and just wire it yourself its not hard....

no plug and play harness. We have had a few request for this we have not installed one on any of our cars yet. Once, we get one installed we will post up TC specifc wiring diagram.

dyno graph and video is down. please re-host :(

dyno graph and video is down. please re-host :(

hurry please

www.zeropointindustries.net/sciondyno.WMV

www.zeropointindustries.net/images/sciondyno.JPG

Holy crap, that is nice.

oh wow. thanks for the quick re-hosting. those are really nice numbers

lol...I thought I would never say this but this thing spools up too fast. There goes the gas milage. I can only imagine the feeling you get in low 3000s. Tradeoffs, tradeoffs.

beautiful fat power curve coming on at only 3200rpm.. great job matching that turbo to the engine :)

Yes it is a nice curve at 3200, but th dyno starts at 2900 RPM, I would bet an off idle dyno would show you that the fat curve can really start way before that; also, 300 RPM to fully chat is really no lag at all, toss in a lightweight flywheel and you think you have a V8 under the hood.

Although I am sure no one really cares about this, can anyone give me an estimate on the gas mileage expected with this turbo?

gas mileage i would estimate to be around the 16-20 range.
also sorry if i've missed this but whats the pricing going to look like for stage 0? stage 1? i know you sold that one stage 0 kit for 2400 in another thread.

I think that it was said these kits would sell for 2500. There was another post that oldman had, where he said he got the kit for 2500 and the install was 300. I dont know if he was the guy who got the good deal though.

well its smart in a way. Your gonna be paying the same amount for a supercharger from a dealer but they only give you 40 HP. Rather then spending your money on a turbo with the same money and gaining 100 HP ... which one would u gys prefer. ??

Gas mileage is all dependant on your driving habits... I average 27mpg with both freeway/highway driving and I jump on the throttle every now and then..

By keeping my driving habits, I bet my gas mileage with the turbo would be around 21-24

well its smart in a way. Your gonna be paying the same amount for a supercharger from a dealer but they only give you 40 HP. Rather then spending your money on a turbo with the same money and gaining 100 HP ... which one would u gys prefer. ??

Actually wasnt it 200hp to the Wheels? That whould be around 60 to the crank, and that low 40-50 to the wheels.

I've never seen TRD quote wheel horsepower.. so I bet its at the crank.

the kit was preorder at $2400.00 I have not got it yet.. soon.

As I've said the whole TRD deal is a fools game there are no forced induction kits for ULEV cars. So this is what I think: Take the realse time for the simple AEM intake and triple it and you get the release time for the supercharger so that is infinite x 3 so far.

ZPI is 2.5x the HP increase, way faster boost rise, vendor intercooler upgrade-able day one, piggy back ecu vs flash, external wastegate upgrade vs buying pullies, install it yourself and save $600.00 and lastly even on regular order price of $3000.00 will still probably cost less then the TRD supercharger.

What's not to :love: ZPI rules, TRD well I've given up on them.

Cant seem to get the video download

the kit was preorder at $2400.00 I have not got it yet.. soon.

As I've said the whole TRD deal is a fools game there are no forced induction kits for ULEV cars. So this is what I think: Take the realse time for the simple AEM intake and triple it and you get the release time for the supercharger so that is infinite x 3 so far.

ZPI is 2.5x the HP increase, way faster boost rise, vendor intercooler upgrade-able day one, piggy back ecu vs flash, external wastegate upgrade vs buying pullies, install it yourself and save $600.00 and lastly even on regular order price of $3000.00 will still probably cost less then the TRD supercharger.

What's not to :love: ZPI rules, TRD well I've given up on them.

i'd agree but i have a 75k bumper to bumper warranty (extra $ from dealer) and I can keep it if I get a TRD supercharger. considering i've had my tC for a week exactly and it's got 600 miles on it, it's quite obvious I can't take the risk of my car breaking and being STATES away from the vendor that can fix it.

...considering i've had my tC for a week exactly and it's got 600 miles on it,... But your avitar says that you have elite mileage :P
For your prepaid extended warranty situation, the TRD may be your best option. However, the ZPI Turbo System is "completly" bolt-on. I plan to intall the turbo myself and for any warranty issues, I will just have to spend an afternoon un-bolting the kit and re-installing the factory manifold and intake. :relief:

Marshall... word, hence the extra 02 so it looks all stock and been there from day one. every nut and gasket new, use snap on flank drive sockets and the bolts so they don't show any wear... all good.

oh i agree its a GREAT kit and if I didn't drive for a living I would have it too... trust me I'm a bigger fan of turbo's than I am of superchargers but I'm the biggest fan of warranties :wink:

Warranties are for pansies. I knew from day one that Subaru wasn't going to cover my transmission even if the car wasn't modded..

Did that stop me from hammering like it was my effin job? Nah, not so much.

i know from day one that my dealership will. i know where the person in charge of parts/warranty lives AND where the owner of the dealership lives

can anybody re upload the video, it dowloaded the last link as a txt file

You have to pay to play. Dont push your turbo setup over its limit and your car will run for a long long time.

i understand that but i don't trust myself LOL

that and i have the worst luck evAr!

oldman or anybody else with the Stage 0 Kit, can you give us an update. I was wanting to know if anything has gone wrong with the turbo or engine. Also, could some of you post some of your 1/4 mile times? I am thinking about getting one, because they are only $2600. Thanks

Holy Thread Resurection... Yo, just go over to the Forced Induction section and look around there.

nice kit

Thught i'd revive this since there appears to be alot of ZPI sucks out there. Now you can see for REAL what it can do. Love the vid.