** Edited to add some info and fix some typo's... I am sure I will find more later :P ***

This is the newest incarnation of the HVAC mod for running blue, green or white LEDs. If some of the replies and discussions following seem out of place, it is because I am replacing my old mod with this one in order to keep one thread out there for this. I will create a separate one for the 2007 and ask for it to be moved to the tech section as well. If you are running red LEDs or are only swapping the gauge LEDS, then you do not need to perform this mod.

I have calculated the circuit components and obtained datasheets for the power supply IC, so I am confident it is all in spec and properly designed. As with all of these DIY posts, I take no responsibility for anything (broken LCD, wife leaving you, meteor falling on your house, etc :P ) I have 6 years of schooling and 2 degrees in the areas of electronics engineering (telecommunications and control systems) and engineering management, for those leary of taking someone on the internets mod and applying it to your baby :P But like I said, be careful not to damage anything while working. I reccomend taking static precautions since you are working around static sensitive devices, using a soldering iron with proper ESD protection, etc. I have been running this mod in my car for about a month now.

Before beginning, it is a good idea to determine if this is a job you want to tackle if you do not have a lot of experience with this. Below is a list of what is involved:

1. De-soldering the LCD for the clock. This is probably one of the more tedious pieces. This takes some patience to do right and can result in a broken LCD, which is replacable only through purchasing an entire HVAC module. So be careful on this step!
2. De-soldering all LEDs and some surface mount resistors. These parts are very small, so be ready to work with tweezers.
3. Soldering the new parts back in and soldering in the LCD

Tools you will need for this:

1. Soldering iron: 25-30W is plenty. Work quickly if you use a 30W iron. A temperature controlled iron is recommended, but I realize many may not want to spend $150 or so for one of these. You will need a small pointed tip for this (if using Cooper/Weller irons, I recommend an ETO or ETA tip).
2. Solder sucker: You can purchase a cheap one that is heated from Radio Shack or a similar store for around $10. Solder wick works great as well, but if you are not experience using it, the sucker may be a better option
3. Solder: You will need a small gauge solder for this.
4. Tweezers
5. Needle nose pliers: to remove the temp knob lock nut

Parts needed for the 2005-2006 HVAC board

16 - PLCC-2 LEDS (18 if you want to do the gradient effect on the temp knob)
3 – 1206 package 43 Ohm SMT resistors
1 – 1206 package 130 Ohm SMT resistor
1 – 1206 package 420 Ohm SMT resistor
1 – 1206 package 680 Ohm SMT resistor
1 – 1206 package 560 Ohm SMT resistor
1 – SP-3SU package +10V regulator 1.2A rating


Ok, lets get started.


I dont reccomend this if you are not familiar with or comfortable with soldering and wiring. I wont go through soldering techniques or dissasembling the console, as this has already been covered in these other posts.

http://www.scionlife.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=37747&start=0

http://www.scionlife.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=61793&start=0

I will focus on the circuit design. I will note one thing though. Be VERY patient with the LCD. Use solder wick and/or a desoldering iron, and move from one end to the other so you are not focusing heat on one area too long. It will seem they will never come loose, but there is solder all the way through, so it takes a while to get it all out. Dont try removing it until you can see all pins on the bottom move when you wiggle the display.

1. On the front of the board, de-solder the following parts:
a. R304 – Top left side of board, marked in red in Figure 1 below
b. R307 – Left of clock LCD. Marked in red in Figure 2 below
c. R312 – upper left of TEMP knob LEDs. Marked in red in Fig 3
d. R310 – Upper Right. Marked in Red if Figure 4 below
e. All LEDs you will be swapping
2. On the back of the board, de-solder the following:
a. R306 – Marked in red in figure 5 below. Middle – Right side
b. R314 – Behind the temp knob, marked in red in Figure 6
c. R316 – Behind the temp knob, marked in red in Figure 6
d. IC300 – Middle Right. Marked in Green in Figure 5
3. Replace the removed components with the new values listed below:
a. All LEDS removed previously
b. R304: 1206 package 43 Ohm SMT resistor
c. R310: 1206 package 43 Ohm SMT resistor
d. R306: 1206 package 43 Ohm SMT resistor
e. R307: 1206 package 130 Ohm SMT resistor
f. R312: 1206 package 420 Ohm SMT resistor
g. R314: 1206 package 560 Ohm SMT resistor
h. R316: 1206 package 680 Ohm SMT resistor
i. IC300: SP-3SU package +10V regulator 1.2A rating
4. This is a good time to plug the unit back in and test. Make sure to push all of the buttons and test all functions now so you don’t end up taking it back apart later.
5. Solder the LCD back into place. Be careful to move end to end while soldering so as not to overheat one area.
6. Clean all connections with rubbing alcohol and dry thoroughly
7. Plug in to test once again
8. Re-assemble HVAC module, install and enjoy!

Figure 1:

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y111/engifineer/2005_HVAC3_Left.jpg

Figure 2:

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y111/engifineer/2005_HVAC3_clock.jpg

Figure 3:

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y111/engifineer/2005_HVAC3_Temp.jpg

Figure 4:

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y111/engifineer/2005_HVAC3_Right.jpg

Figure 5:

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y111/engifineer/2005_HVAC3_rear_PS.jpg

Figure 6:

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y111/engifineer/2005_HVAC3_temprear.jpg

And my personal reccomendation for a finish (if you are old enough :P )

http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/center_console_led_replacement_tc/capn.jpg

<3

This has to be sent to the SL August contest Engi....Here are the details below. This "how to" has at last properly fixed an issue that has been a thorn for a year now, and it's done dead on professional. The console blue and white LED issue is no longer. :clap: Be sure to email the link to him for submission. Nice job. :bow:

August Contest

OK guys, this month I am going to be adding to our tech article library by giving a prize to the member that creates the best new tech article for the website. It should contain step-by-step instructions with photos. It can be ANYTHING, as long as it doesn't already exist in our library. Check our current tech library here:
www.scionlife.com/tech

You will need to create a new topic somewhere in the forums and then you must EMAIL me the link to your article.[/b][/b]

-=PRIZE=-
The prize for this month's contest is your choice of the following:
- A Hotchkis lowering spring kit for your Scion model courtesy of www.hotchkistuning.com
- A Tanabe Strut Tower Bar for your tC or xA/xb courtesy of www.tanabe-usa.com
- An AudioFormz custom cargo panel painted to match your stock color xB courtesy of www.audioformz.com
- An OEM Scion Red Leather xA/xB Steering wheel courtesy of www.scionevolution.com
- An OEM Scion xB-Plus Security System courtesy of www.scionevolution.com
- A set of OEM xA factory fog lights courtesy of www.scionevolution.com
- A one-year Premium Membership to Scion Life with Prize Pack ($200 value)

-=RULES=-
- Article must be helpful and not a "spoof", although humor is always a plus
- Images will be transferred to the SL server as soon as we can for archiving
- You may enter as many times as you wish

-=JUDGING=-
As always I am the sole judge and my decision is final. Live with it.

^^ Very cool! Who do I email it to? I did not see an address there.

Email to this address..

admin@scionlife.com

I found it and sent the email... thanks for the info!

no problem...you really deserve it. Prior to this, the only listed fix was gerry rig stilts :shock: :rofl: :rofl: I just couldn't bring myself to do that. :lalala: :rofl: :rofl:

Hey, I see you have a full tank of gas. Pretty soon, we will need a line of credit to fill up. :rofl: :rofl:

Is it possible to get a whole shot of the front and back? :D I know u but it back and everything...

nice, i skipped all the intial steps and went straight to the final step. Awesome. Me tomorrow ---> :doh:

Hey, I see you have a full tank of gas. Pretty soon, we will need a line of credit to fill up. :rofl: :rofl:

No kidding! What is it going for there int STL? Here in the twin cities I am paying about $2.45... gettting reeeeediculous! I spent $30 filling up and it wasnt completely empty!


As far as more pics, I will be doing the other board I have this week hopefully, so I will take even more then and post them.

And somebody mentioned here or on the other thread about the stereo... I am actually thinking of just doing the readout on it. I think the buttons accent the amber needles and heat control nicely.. plus there are a million of them :P

$2.58 a gallon. BS I say...pure BS. :tap:

Pray it peaked :pray:

looks good man.

This might be off topic but I need a Guage LED fix. First off, I praise the work you have done engifineer :bow: :bow:

I just installed Blue LEDS into the guage and everything looks great.. Except I now have a check engine light with what it seems like a loss of power when my car is idle. Also my speedometer does not go up when I accelerate. All other guages work fine. Anyone know what it could be? How can a LED conversion set off the check engine light? Sorry if this is off topic but please help and advise if you guys can. Thanks in advance.

Look for damaged connections and little peices of solder on the board and between pins of the ICs on the board. That would be the most logical place to look.

Look for damaged connections and little peices of solder on the board and between pins of the ICs on the board. That would be the most logical place to look.

No damaged connections or any left over pieces of solder deposit anywhere...As for the speedometer. I tried lining it up exactly the way I took it off, but it still doesn't work...

I can't wait to work on this!! Thanks for all the work you did on figuring this thing out. Glad to have you around to share your knowledge too!!! :bow:

ahh man too much work for me to fix mine. i wish someone in the area knew how to do this.

how many Resistors do we need? and are they all 220? Thanks

This might be off topic but I need a Guage LED fix. First off, I praise the work you have done engifineer :bow: :bow:

I just installed Blue LEDS into the guage and everything looks great.. Except I now have a check engine light with what it seems like a loss of power when my car is idle. Also my speedometer does not go up when I accelerate. All other guages work fine. Anyone know what it could be? How can a LED conversion set off the check engine light? Sorry if this is off topic but please help and advise if you guys can. Thanks in advance.

Dont be affraid of the check engine light.. it will go off eventually... probably you ran the engine while doing the LED work... that sets a CEL for a while... later on (50 miles) the engine will go back to normal function and the light will go off... the same thing happened to me....

Why isn't this a sticky

how many Resistors do we need? and are they all 220? Thanks

Looks like 3 220ohm and 3 680ohm, all 6 at 1/16 watt.

Good job NOT cracking the clock LCD! :P

So how much would it cost me to have you do this to my car next? :lalala:

^^ Sent you a message

Got the pm. Thanks for the qucik response.

Good job NOT cracking the clock LCD! :P

So how much would it cost me to have you do this to my car next? :lalala:

same question....

Good job NOT cracking the clock LCD! :P

So how much would it cost me to have you do this to my car next? :lalala:

same question....

pm sent as well! For those interested you can also inquire at engifineer@hotmail.com.

I just made a small correction in my post. I realized this morning that I mistakenly (in my tired state) typed that wrong. I used 1/4 watt resistors. 1/16th Watt is the minimum size that can be used, but 1/8th is probably easier to find. The original post is now corrected.

Engifineer, you are my f***ing hero :bow: I now have a project to do as soon as I get back from my honeymoon. This is some top notch work, you are a true professional.

if i pay you like 50 bucks. will you do it for me?

^^ Pm sent

Engifineer, you are my f***ing hero :bow: I now have a project to do as soon as I get back from my honeymoon. This is some top notch work, you are a true professional.

Thanks for the good words! Let me know if you have any questions during it. I noticed today (I leave my lights on quite a bit since they have the auto off feature :P ) that they look crazy during dusk hours! They get more light from the sun (not shadowed like the gauges) and have a cool color to them. Anyway, I promised a couple that I would list out the parts needed, so:

You should be able to find all of these at Radio Shack or a similar store.
3 680 Ohm (Blue, Grey, Brown) resistors at least 1/16th watt, but 1/8th or 1/4 are easier to find.
3 220 Ohm (Red, Red, Brown) resistors same rating as above
1 - 1K ohm resistor
1- 560 Ohm resistor
Small hookup wire
Soldering Iron 20W
Small 60/40, 65/35 or similar solder
Small solder wick
Tweezers or needle nose
Small end cutters
Phillips screwdriver (#2 works well)
Needle nose (cover with a cloth) to remove dial

That should get you everything I think!

You could probably use 570 Ohm resistors without concern of overloading the supply, but the 680s looked great so I stuck with them.

how much do those resistors go for? How much would it cost for you to do it for me with the gauge cluster?

Just bought the resistors. 99 cents for a set of 5. I forgot hook up wire though, back I go :(

Just bought the resistors. 99 cents for a set of 5. I forgot hook up wire though, back I go :(

for some reason that made me lol when i read it

Engifineer, you are my f***ing hero :bow: I now have a project to do as soon as I get back from my honeymoon. This is some top notch work, you are a true professional.

Thanks for the good words! Let me know if you have any questions during it. I noticed today (I leave my lights on quite a bit since they have the auto off feature :P ) that they look crazy during dusk hours! They get more light from the sun (not shadowed like the gauges) and have a cool color to them. Anyway, I promised a couple that I would list out the parts needed, so:

You should be able to find all of these at Radio Shack or a similar store.
3 680 Ohm (Blue, Grey, Brown) resistors at least 1/16th watt, but 1/8th or 1/4 are easier to find.
3 220 Ohm (Red, Red, Brown) resistors same rating as above
Small hookup wire
Soldering Iron 20W
Small 60/40, 65/35 or similar solder
Small solder wick
Tweezers or needle nose
Small end cutters
Phillips screwdriver (#2 works well)
Needle nose (cover with a cloth) to remove dial

That should get you everything I think!

You could probably use 570 Ohm resistors without concern of overloading the supply, but the 680s looked great so I stuck with them.
:bow: :bow: :bow: :bow:

thank you!

Just bought the resistors. 99 cents for a set of 5. I forgot hook up wire though, back I go :(

i can't find 1/4 watt 680 ohm resistors. where did u buy them?

Just bought the resistors. 99 cents for a set of 5. I forgot hook up wire though, back I go :(

i can't find 1/4 watt 680 ohm resistors. where did u buy them?

You can use 1/8th, 1/4, 1/2 and up.. they just get bigger. 1/4 is the most common ones sold at radio shack, so they should have them..

Just bought the resistors. 99 cents for a set of 5. I forgot hook up wire though, back I go :(

i can't find 1/4 watt 680 ohm resistors. where did u buy them?

hmm iono how aobut u demand it from your dealer? you dumbass :silly:

Just bought the resistors. 99 cents for a set of 5. I forgot hook up wire though, back I go :(

i can't find 1/4 watt 680 ohm resistors. where did u buy them?

hmm iono how aobut u demand it from your dealer? you dumbass :silly:

oh fvck off lol. i got my refund so i'm happy.

Just bought the resistors. 99 cents for a set of 5. I forgot hook up wire though, back I go :(

i can't find 1/4 watt 680 ohm resistors. where did u buy them?

You can use 1/8th, 1/4, 1/2 and up.. they just get bigger. 1/4 is the most common ones sold at radio shack, so they should have them..

so it makes no difference whether you use 1/8 or 1/2?

i think radioshack has them in 1/2 but 1/4 they dont even sell 680s

Just bought the resistors. 99 cents for a set of 5. I forgot hook up wire though, back I go :(

i can't find 1/4 watt 680 ohm resistors. where did u buy them?

You can use 1/8th, 1/4, 1/2 and up.. they just get bigger. 1/4 is the most common ones sold at radio shack, so they should have them..

so it makes no difference whether you use 1/8 or 1/2?

i think radioshack has them in 1/2 but 1/4 they dont even sell 680s

Na, no problem at all.

no problem...you really deserve it. Prior to this, the only listed fix was gerry rig stilts :shock: :rofl: :rofl: I just couldn't bring myself to do that. :lalala: :rofl: :rofl:

Hey!

it works, its the solution for the creative and lazy.

http://mrlore.gotdns.org/scions/stuff/sm/IMG_0438S.jpg

As you can see it worked alot better on the lcd than anywhere else.

/edit

Mad props to engifineer, u got skillz.

Just bought the resistors. 99 cents for a set of 5. I forgot hook up wire though, back I go :(

i can't find 1/4 watt 680 ohm resistors. where did u buy them?

You can use 1/8th, 1/4, 1/2 and up.. they just get bigger. 1/4 is the most common ones sold at radio shack, so they should have them..

so it makes no difference whether you use 1/8 or 1/2?

i think radioshack has them in 1/2 but 1/4 they dont even sell 680s

Na, no problem at all.

Just a quick plug into my car tomorrow to test and your console is on the way back to you all in blue! I'll try to get it sent out tomorrow evening. Thanks for letting me borrow the extra to get it solved :bow:

Just bought the resistors. 99 cents for a set of 5. I forgot hook up wire though, back I go :(

i can't find 1/4 watt 680 ohm resistors. where did u buy them?

You can use 1/8th, 1/4, 1/2 and up.. they just get bigger. 1/4 is the most common ones sold at radio shack, so they should have them..

so it makes no difference whether you use 1/8 or 1/2?

i think radioshack has them in 1/2 but 1/4 they dont even sell 680s

Na, no problem at all.

Just a quick plug into my car tomorrow to test and your console is on the way back to you all in blue! I'll try to get it sent out tomorrow evening. Thanks for letting me borrow the extra to get it solved :bow:

Hey, no problem and the whole Scion community appreciates your work. It's top shelf stuff :clap:

no problem...you really deserve it. Prior to this, the only listed fix was gerry rig stilts :shock: :rofl: :rofl: I just couldn't bring myself to do that. :lalala: :rofl: :rofl:

Hey!

it works, its the solution for the creative and lazy.

http://mrlore.gotdns.org/scions/stuff/sm/IMG_0438S.jpg

As you can see it worked alot better on the lcd than anywhere else.

/edit

Mad props to engifineer, u got skillz.

Looks good! Do you think you can get a clearer pic? Steady hands now.. hehe.

no problem...you really deserve it. Prior to this, the only listed fix was gerry rig stilts :shock: :rofl: :rofl: I just couldn't bring myself to do that. :lalala: :rofl: :rofl:

Hey!

it works, its the solution for the creative and lazy.

[img]http://mrlore.gotdns.org/scions/stuff/sm/IMG_0438S.jpg

As you can see it worked alot better on the lcd than anywhere else.

/edit

Mad props to engifineer, u got skillz.

Looks good! Do you think you can get a clearer pic? Steady hands now.. hehe.

Its the long shutter time that made it hard to take clearly i am sure, that is why everything looks so bright (such as the gauges and temp controls).

I just leave mine on default setting with no flash (not the night setting) and take it. That way it shows up as they really look and I dont have issues with blurry pics.

I went to do this, and it wasn't until after i desoldered the lcd that I realized I only had 6 blue leds. Had to do all red with blue buttons at hte moment. I'll go back and do blue when I get tired of the red.

I went to do this, and it wasn't until after i desoldered the lcd that I realized I only had 6 blue leds. Had to do all red with blue buttons at hte moment. I'll go back and do blue when I get tired of the red.

It probably looks pretty good with the way your gauges are done!

Yea Rivulent, that would probably match pretty hot. Got any pics?

no problem...you really deserve it. Prior to this, the only listed fix was gerry rig stilts :shock: :rofl: :rofl: I just couldn't bring myself to do that. :lalala: :rofl: :rofl:

Hey!

it works, its the solution for the creative and lazy.

http://mrlore.gotdns.org/scions/stuff/sm/IMG_0438S.jpg

As you can see it worked alot better on the lcd than anywhere else.

/edit

Mad props to engifineer, u got skillz.

No disrespect intended. That was a very, very creative fix :clap:

I'll have the pics tonight. I'd liek to go back and do the lcd blue at least, but I only had 2 leds left hehe. Who knows, maybe I'll like this. Pics tonight.

Question for you Engifineer. What do you mean by "cut the trace?" Also all I want is to fix the Clock LEDS to make them brighter. Is it possible to just fix the clock LEDS? If so, how? Please advise o'wise one :bow: :bow:

Question for you Engifineer. What do you mean by "cut the trace?" Also all I want is to fix the Clock LEDS to make them brighter. Is it possible to just fix the clock LEDS? If so, how? Please advise o'wise one :bow: :bow:


If you look on the board from the points that the LEDs solder on, you will see "traces" that run to various places. These are the "wires" of a circuit. For instance, you can follow one from the second LED down on the right, from the cathode (marked with the line) to the anode (marked by the back of the triangle) of the third one down. In this case it is easiest to cut a section out right at the third LED to disconnect the two.

To do just the clock you should just replace the resistor before the three LEDs with a peice of hookup wire.

For those that have been in touch with me regarding sending gauges and consoles for modding, I will be out of town from tomorrow until Sunday, so if I am long to respond, that is why

Question for you Engifineer. What do you mean by "cut the trace?" Also all I want is to fix the Clock LEDS to make them brighter. Is it possible to just fix the clock LEDS? If so, how? Please advise o'wise one :bow: :bow:


If you look on the board from the points that the LEDs solder on, you will see "traces" that run to various places. These are the "wires" of a circuit. For instance, you can follow one from the second LED down on the right, from the cathode (marked with the line) to the anode (marked by the back of the triangle) of the third one down. In this case it is easiest to cut a section out right at the third LED to disconnect the two.

To do just the clock you should just replace the resistor before the three LEDs with a peice of hookup wire.

Thanks for the info. I tried to replace the resistor but couldn't get it off. So I just removed the middle LED for the clock. Removing that LED really made a difference and the lights for the clock are now much brighter! :clap:

Anyone know how to take apart the stock HU.....i would like to change the leds in there and i already have the leds but i nned to know how to take it apart without messing anything up......I would love a DIY guide if someone knows....i have been waiting on blue_estel for a while but he is too busy....ANY HELP please?!!?

Anyone know how to take apart the stock HU.....i would like to change the leds in there and i already have the leds but i nned to know how to take it apart without messing anything up......I would love a DIY guide if someone knows....i have been waiting on blue_estel for a while but he is too busy....ANY HELP please?!!?

Since I will be keeping my stock HU for a little while at least.. I may dig into this part next week or so. I will post when I do.

Just in case you didnt know here is some info on the HU

For the button LED's they are size 0603 SMT, if you do an e-bay seach for '0603 blue LED', you will find a company from Hong Kong, T and D Technology Company, they are selling them for the best price that I could find. 50 LED's for $12 shipped.

For the display, I went to Oznium.com and got some 3mm LED's (you only need 2)

I nice walkthrough on taking it apart and how to tell the poliarity when putting on the new leds would be extremely appreciated and helpful!!!! YOU the Man thanks in advance....

~Jason

does anyone have any spare red, blue, or green LEDs? i need 2 (want to change the 2 LEDs on the AC and other button.) will pay $$ or trade 2 white LEDs

engifineer: you sir, own all!

Great work on the fix for this, I bow down in reverence and humility to your skills :p

does anyone have any spare red, blue, or green LEDs? i need 2 (want to change the 2 LEDs on the AC and other button.) will pay $$ or trade 2 white LEDs

I have 2 blue LEDS - PM me and I will mail them to you.

does anyone have any spare red, blue, or green LEDs? i need 2 (want to change the 2 LEDs on the AC and other button.) will pay $$ or trade 2 white LEDs

I have 2 blue LEDS - PM me and I will mail them to you.

Did you recieve the console back in one peice? Thought I would check, they were supposed to have it there no later than friday.

does anyone have any spare red, blue, or green LEDs? i need 2 (want to change the 2 LEDs on the AC and other button.) will pay $$ or trade 2 white LEDs

I have 2 blue LEDS - PM me and I will mail them to you.

Did you recieve the console back in one peice? Thought I would check, they were supposed to have it there no later than friday.

I got it and installed it last night. :bow: That is just SICK. Wow, the blue just works perfect and punches out. Thanks again Engi - :clap:

Shipping my console and gauges tonight for a white LED mod :D Although I'll be tC-less for a week :(

Shipping my console and gauges tonight for a white LED mod :D Although I'll be tC-less for a week :(

Your LEDs should be at my house by tomorrow at the latest.. so we are all set!

I came across something interesting during one of the console mods I performed the other night. When replacing the resistor in series with the clock LEDs, they ended up too dim. After doing some testing I figured out why. Due to tolerances in circuit components, the regulated voltage on that particular board was 7.90V as opposed to the 7.95V I have seen on other boards. This may seem in-significant, but the LEDs drop right at 2.643V each, adding to 7.93V. So simply replacing the resistor with a jumper allows for just enough voltage to power the LEDs and make them bright enough to illuminate the clock as long as the power supply is providing more than 7.93V. So, in the case of the one I mentioned the 7.90V causes major dimming issues. The LEDs barely light at all.

So, I added a quick fix, which is basically the same design as the other groups of 3 LEDs. I performed the following:

1) Cut the trace between the first LED and the second one.
2) Connect the Cathode of the first LED to the Cathode of the 3rd LED using a 680 Ohm resistor
3) Connect the anode of the second LED to the anode of the first LED using a 330Ohm resistor.

This actually came out a little brighter than needed, but looks great. I may raise the value of the resistors to around 800 and 430 to make them match the odo a little closer.

So if anyone comes across this issue when trying this mod, this is why. I reccomend doing it this way the first time to avoid repeated disassembly and assembly. I will post pics of the next one I do this way to make it easier to follow.

^^^^Anything on the HU.....just curious because i may have some time this weekend do to this damn tropical storm/hurricane...then again i might not if i lose power!!!
Thanks

^^^^Anything on the HU.....just curious because i may have some time this weekend do to this damn tropical storm/hurricane...then again i might not if i lose power!!!
Thanks


Not yet. My girlfriend and her son moved in with me last weekend from OK. So we are unpacking, re-arranging, etc. Plus I have had one hell of a hard week at work and have done 2 gauge and console conversions with one left to go today.. so my week has been tiring to say the least :P But, I hope to get to it soon!

^^^^Anything on the HU.....just curious because i may have some time this weekend do to this damn tropical storm/hurricane...then again i might not if i lose power!!!
Thanks


Not yet. My girlfriend and her son moved in with me last weekend from OK. So we are unpacking, re-arranging, etc. Plus I have had one hell of a hard week at work and have done 2 gauge and console conversions with one left to go today.. so my week has been tiring to say the least :P But, I hope to get to it soon!

Congrats on the move in....I hope all goes well. :clap:

^^^^Anything on the HU.....just curious because i may have some time this weekend do to this damn tropical storm/hurricane...then again i might not if i lose power!!!
Thanks




Not yet. My girlfriend and her son moved in with me last weekend from OK. So we are unpacking, re-arranging, etc. Plus I have had one hell of a hard week at work and have done 2 gauge and console conversions with one left to go today.. so my week has been tiring to say the least :P But, I hope to get to it soon!

Congrats on the move in....I hope all goes well. :clap:

Thanks! It is great to have them living with me... so something shiny and a house are in the works next I guess :-P

Glad to hear.....No rush....try to relax some!!

From what I gather this only needs to be done if you are wanting to use White or Blue LED's? I want to change mine to Red and would like to skip all this if necessary.

From what I gather this only needs to be done if you are wanting to use White or Blue LED's? I want to change mine to Red and would like to skip all this if necessary.

you should be ok with red.

Sent my center console to engifineer to get the fix done. All I have to say is WOW! It is bright and sexy. THANK YOU! :D

http://www.socalpunkandska.com/images/newg2.jpg

http://www.socalpunkandska.com/images/newg1.jpg

bbbump

Glad you like! The white turned out nice with the head unit, nice choice of color :D Thanks for the kind words as well!

Just checking up on any news about the HU???

Not as of yet... but still trying to get around to it. :P

Check this out. It looks like there is another way to fix the dim blue/white console problem. This was on clubsciontc. Heres thie link to the topic, its on pg 12: Courtesy of Viro! :bow: :bow:

http://clubsciontc.com/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=1863&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=165

Have you seen this engifineer? What are your thoughts on this and do you know where I can get these bridgable jumper cables?

Awesome stuff!

Check this out. It looks like there is another way to fix the dim blue/white console problem. This was on clubsciontc. Heres thie link to the topic, its on pg 12: Courtesy of Viro! :bow: :bow:

http://clubsciontc.com/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=1863&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=165

Have you seen this engifineer? What are your thoughts on this and do you know where I can get these bridgable jumper cables?

I tried that with the blues, but I could tell a difference in brightness. With that setup the current values are different through the various LEDs, so some appear more bright... maybe I was just being too picky and it seemed noticeable to me :P ... but I went ahead and balanced them a bit with the resistors... it only takes me about 15 minutes more to do it this way so I dont mind being a bit nit picky there :P

Johnny TCblaze.... the way to fix this problem as i posted on clubsciontc.com seems to work fine for white.

I tried with blue and the difference IS noticeable. The way to do it with blue is as enginfineer figured and pulls less current from the board.

Either ways works just fine for white... recommend being really carefull with the LCD, it breaks very easily

For the resistors, if I wanted to get surface mount to keep an OEM look, what size would they be? Thick or Thin Filmed? Mouser.com has SMD resistors starting at $.08 a piece.

For the resistors, if I wanted to get surface mount to keep an OEM look, what size would they be? Thick or Thin Filmed? Mouser.com has SMD resistors starting at $.08 a piece.

I believe those would be thin filmed. For the ones you replace with 220 ohm, it will be easy as long as you get the correct size. The ones that connect to nothing but wire will be tough to work with though. for those I reccomend using axial lead, since the leads become your wires. I use no wire for connection to the added resistors. I simply strip the wire and use the insulation to cover the leads, so it comes out neat.

To pick your smt resistors, a good way to double check is measure the ones on the board and then look at the dimensions on the datasheets.

And do listen to viro on the LCD... those are very fragile.. and around 400 -500 bucks seeing as how you have to replace the entire unit if it cracks. And I figured the difference in brightness would be washed out with the whites, so that makes them a little easier to mod. For the ones I am doing for people I still do it the same as the blues since I have it all planned out now and have the resistors bent and ready to go. It only takes me a few more minutes to do it that way and keeps a standard design for all the ones I do. But, if you do your own and use whites it will save you some time to do it the way viro does it, especially if you havent spent endless hours building circuits on perfboards as I have through many projects :P Believe it or not, I spend as much or more time removing and replacing the LCD, cleaning the board, and testing than I do modding the circuit...... I must be a geek who has spent too much time doing this type of thing :rofl:

I have it all planned out now and have the resistors bent and ready to go.
So would you be willing to sell a 'kit' with all the parts needed(resistors/wire)?

I have it all planned out now and have the resistors bent and ready to go.
So would you be willing to sell a 'kit' with all the parts needed(resistors/wire)?

I could do something like that. I would have to make some more up once I get more resistors in the mail, but definitely something I could do.

engifineer definately let me know on a kit. I am VERY interested. I modify Xbox's so the soldering is second nature to me, but a complete resistor/led pack would be sweet! LMK!!!

Ordering parts this weekend and doing a center console late this coming week, so I will use it as a template to perfect the peices and then let everyone know how much.

Johnny TCblaze.... the way to fix this problem as i posted on clubsciontc.com seems to work fine for white.

I tried with blue and the difference IS noticeable. The way to do it with blue is as enginfineer figured and pulls less current from the board.

Either ways works just fine for white... recommend being really carefull with the LCD, it breaks very easily

Thanks for your input Viro. Did you ever get your new LCD Viro? I'm trying to fix my dim blue LED conversion but don't want to (actually don't know how to) solder on resisters and cut traces and what not. So with that said where did you get those jumper cables mang? And did u just place electrical tape on the factory printed lines? Is that all that is needed?? Please advise o'wise one!!!

And this hasn't been made a sticky or Tech article yet for what reason?

And this hasn't been made a sticky or Tech article yet for what reason?

I second that... I vote this for best tech article ever!

I'm curious on what type of leds everyone used on the gauges? Did everyone use the 0603's from ebay or did you use a larger type. Mine that i got are really tiny, they are just little specs. Any help would be appreciated before I start pulling stuff apart.

http://www.edesignaudio.com/wire_cat.php?catid=32

Power top=roughly same as the stock LEDs

nevermind, answered my own question. Thanks

To those that sent me pms about this, sorry it took so long to respond. I was out of town all week. The ones from LC-LED (the power tops) are the exact package to replace the stock LEDs. Make sure you have some tweezers or some small needle nose pliers available.. because they are tiny.

Back to page one for you.

engifineer you should find out how to change the LED's for us automatic guys shift area..... just a thought... new idea?

engifineer you should find out how to change the LED's for us automatic guys shift area..... just a thought... new idea?

Are you refferring to the console area around the shifter? If so... I will have to get my hands on an auto and check that out.

engifineer you should find out how to change the LED's for us automatic guys shift area..... just a thought... new idea?

Are you refferring to the console area around the shifter? If so... I will have to get my hands on an auto and check that out.

Hmm, never really thought about those. I'll check them out in the next week or so and see whats up. BTW - your CAI is on the way

engifineer you should find out how to change the LED's for us automatic guys shift area..... just a thought... new idea?

Are you refferring to the console area around the shifter? If so... I will have to get my hands on an auto and check that out.

Hmm, never really thought about those. I'll check them out in the next week or so and see whats up. BTW - your CAI is on the way

You're the man! I gotta say one of the nicer people I have met in quite some time! Hopefully I can get to some of my other design projects and send some goodies your way as well!

Didnt think about yours being an auto either. I am not even sure if they are LED or bulbs down there. I have only been in one auto do do the gauges, but we never had the console apart.

And to those interested in console "kits" : I am recieving one today or tomorrow to mod for someone, so I can make up a wiring kit then. I plan on making some sort of template for cutting the back of the faceplate as well. Then everything would be simple soldering and following directions (which can be included as well) I will keep everyone posted.

Headunit update???
Dont forget about me too!!!!

Headunit update???
Dont forget about me too!!!!

I have the LEDs in now (got them a few days ago), so hopefully this weekend. I have to work saturday on some updates for work, but maybe sunday I can get to that part.

I guess I have those LEDs.... I am assuming they are the same size.. maybe not the best assumption. I just ordered quite a few of them thought so I thought I would check them out.

engifineer you should find out how to change the LED's for us automatic guys shift area..... just a thought... new idea?

The shift lights are lit using a #74 bulb. I bought an led bulb and put it in there. The only problem is, since leds are directional, all the letters light us nicely except for the L. The P is a little dim as well. I'll post a pic later if you want.

Here is one of my posts about it: http://www.scionlife.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=82869&highlight=

^^^ cool deal thx. ... ohh and how many do you need?

found the pic too:
http://www.clubsciontc.com/files/dsc00375_182.jpg

Ya that a good pic, but he used a white led....his shows up pretty well, but with blue it's pretty dim.

the white led looks purpleish....

Any updates on a kit and price shipped engifineer? I WANT WHITE!!!

I could supply the LEDs along with pre-bent and insulated wires and resistors. It would make it easier if everyone interested could send me the colors, number of LEDs (or specifics as to the layout you will be using), tranny type (the auto has more LEDs than the manual) and any other special requests to engifineer@hotmail.com . I can then start ordering the LEDs in batches rather than one set at a time.

You are the man...yes you are. Mine is now the right colors...YAY

Any idea how red would look? Cost to have you do the work + parts? (it'd hafta be shipped to you as I'm currently residing in cornville USA)

Any idea how red would look? Cost to have you do the work + parts? (it'd hafta be shipped to you as I'm currently residing in cornville USA)

pm sent

what size led light do i need and how many. if some one could help that would be great. thanks

How much would you charge to just wire my center console board to match the brightness of the blue gauges?

engifineer you should find out how to change the LED's for us automatic guys shift area..... just a thought... new idea?

Are you refferring to the console area around the shifter? If so... I will have to get my hands on an auto and check that out.

Hmm, never really thought about those. I'll check them out in the next week or so and see whats up. BTW - your CAI is on the way

That one is easy. It is the same bulb/led as the cubby hole replacement. It will be about 1/16 of an inch too long. I beltsanded some and installed one in a tC already. Get them at www.superbriteleds.com

very nice

Easy as DONE!!
That looks 100x better! :love:

Nice work!how much for the center consol . i have the leds so i will supply them i just need you to do the work...thanks

How much would you charge to just wire my center console board to match the brightness of the blue gauges?


I would like to know this too.....but i also have my defroster led not working...so i need to have that one replaced and the rewiring???

How much would it cost if i shipped you the center console with the leds??

I have recieved a ton of questions off of this post recently.. so sorry if I have missed anyone! I have sent pms to all of those requesting info.

Just did the fix on my center console and it's freaking beautiful! You rock Engi! :clap: :bow:

I'll take update pics of the console soon hopefully.

MODS, MAKE THIS A TECH ARTICLE!

^^ Thanks for the kind words! Glad you got them finished! They did add this to the tech articles a while back. Glad to see it helped a few.

Sorry for the long delay. I have had numerous requests from those that want to convert their own center console LEDs rather than pay someone to do it for them, but would like a premade "kit" including all of the pre-bent wires and resistors for doing so. I realize that many of you are willing to do the soldering work, but want to make sure that you have everything neatly bent and in the right place. I have some templates I made that I can use to create these and mail them out with or without the LEDs. Just shoot me a pm if you are interested in ordering them. Keep in mind that you still need to be comfortable doing the soldering work correctly as well as cutting parts of the circuits.

How hard is it cutting parts of the circuits....i have done the complete blue conversion but would love to do the FIX!!!! I am very interested in your templates and bent wires......do they come with good instructions too???? How much ....PM me please I a very curious how this compares in difficultly to actually doing just a conversion......i guess what i am trying to say is that i am a little leary of doing this!!! I just need a confidence booster!!

Thanks
~Jason

pm sent

How hard is it cutting parts of the circuits....i have done the complete blue conversion but would love to do the FIX!!!! I am very interested in your templates and bent wires......do they come with good instructions too???? How much ....PM me please I a very curious how this compares in difficultly to actually doing just a conversion......i guess what i am trying to say is that i am a little leary of doing this!!! I just need a confidence booster!!

Thanks
~Jason

PM me with same info please! :D

It's not difficult to do it at all. All you need is an xacto knife, box knife or razor blade. Just be EXTREMELY careful that you only cut the trace you're working on.

any pics of where to cut?

By any chance does anyone have a picture of the Console complete all the area together before modifing it and after? or a little more detailed ones?

THanks!;)

Thanks for the kit Dave. Turned out great. =)

http://img155.imageshack.us/img155/9226/cluster0qu.th.jpg (http://img155.imageshack.us/my.php?image=cluster0qu.jpg)
http://img522.imageshack.us/img522/4691/console6ei.th.jpg (http://img522.imageshack.us/my.php?image=console6ei.jpg)

^^ Nice job! Glad it worked out for you! What unit is that you have mounted in the HU area?

It's a Pioneer Avic-D1.

after this conversion is done is it possible to still use the dimmer knob to adjust the brightness or is it just always going to be the same brightness?

Awesome Job engifineer, i just read through the whole thread and am going to go back and copy out all the hightligts like the parts list and modifications that were posted later on so i have a clear cut way of doing it......unless that was already changed in the original post by now?

Has anyone had any issues since doing this mod since August when this was started?

nice

Follow the instructions, have patience and this mod works great. The one thing that I had to go back to the workbench after installing this was not trimming enough of the plastic to allow the jump wires to fit. You will know you have this problem too if your buttons don't quite work when you push them in, as if something is misaligned. Just trim a little more away and you will be gtg!

sorry i'm kinda new to this... but i was wondering if you got that kit out.. or made.. i would like one... thanks

^^ yep, I have sent a few out with some illustrated instructions and people have used them very successfully. I have done about 15 - 20 of them so far myself with no un-satisfied customers. Send me a pm and I will send you the info for the kit.

^^^pm sent

i dont mean to jack your thread or anything engi. but has anyone tried to just change the LEDs and not do engi's mod? i'm just asking bcuz i changed the LEDs and when i went to test them to see if they would work they did. but when i reassembled everything and put it back in the car it didn't!! :doh:

engi:
i was just wondering if i shorted something out? but if i did why does the hazard, clock, selt belt, alarm and LEDs for the A/C, recirc and defrosters still work?

can someone help me out? :pray: i didn't do any cutting or anything. i just changed out the LEDs and that was it. i was able to successfully change the gauge cluster with no problem. it's the center console that giving me the trouble.

^^ Without the mod they are very dim. This was the original problem that caused me to create the mod. If you use red leds then you dont need to do the mod since the operate on the same voltage as stock.

Not sure why they stopped working on you. One short will usually just cause some of them to fail due to the way the circuit is designed. Each set of three has its own power feed. If you looked at them in the daylight the issue was possibly because they were very dim without the mod and you maybe just could not see them with the faceplate on. Look at them in the dark to see if that is the case. They come out very dim without the mod.

when that happened i took it apart again to see if i messed anything up and it looked like nothing was lighting up except for the metioned buttons.

well you think i can send the console to you and see if you can see where i messed up. i'm also have a hard time trying to get the clock out. it's taken forever for some reason. i know i've tried at least 3 times taking the solder out and have been unsuccessfully all 3 times.

how much do you charge to do the mod? i'm kind of shaky when it comes to cutting the traces and all that. even if ppl say it's not that hard. well let me know. thanks for the help.

so wait, can you dim the leds like you could stock?

oo a fix
pm me the info
uhmmm price?

Does anyone in around riverside, cali know how to do the leds.

pm'd you engifineer, can you send info for the conversion?

^^ Sure will, planning and having my sons Bday party this weekend so I have been in and out. I will send you some info in a bit. Talk to you soon.

Thanks!

so wait, can you dim the leds like you could stock?

anybody got an answer?

^^ Yep, they still dim with the stock dimmer.

The dimmer regulates current, not voltage, so you dont have to worry about them "cutting off" when dimming due to the higher voltage level of the blues. Maybe more info than needed, but I have had that question before so I thought I would post it. They work just the same as the stock color.

And while I am here, I thought I would give an update. I have been talking about some other options such as shift indicators, color changing schemes, etc. I know it has taken me forever (family and career keep me busy), but I am still working on it. I have my new microcontroller programmer installed on my pc and am working on some new stuff. I will post when I am finished with them.

So, im about to do my console and my friends console, mine in white and his in blue.

After reading all of these pages, i can just use the "jumper" technique for the white LEDs, but have to replace some of the resistors with the Blue LEDs? Just want to make sure i know what im doing before i fry anything lol. Thanks!

You must have a 2005 tC because with the 06 you can change the color of the CD display....One of those colors is blue....Sucks you are still stuck with the amber there....

^^ he is not talking about the CD display, he is talking about the hvac unit (all the buttons, clock, etc).

You can use the jumper method, but on blues especially I can tell the difference (there is twice as much current going through some than the others).

With the resistor method everything is balanced so the same amount of current is passing through each one. Coming from an electronics engineering background, I HAVE to have everything balanced and perfect when I do them :P

i'm getting ready to have mine done this weekend, i went through and made cliff notes of this thread and printed off what i could for my friend who is going to be doing this for me. I hope all goes well.

Thank you very much engifineer for all your help and info

I am just about to attempt the fix, I have a quick question about whether to be using 330 ohm or 220 ohm on the R304 R310 and R306 replacements. The inital post and walkthrough states 330. Yet futher in the forum the parts list states 220. I have both but wanted to get confirmation from anyone that has already performed this to clear up which ones.

I am just about to attempt the fix, I have a quick question about whether to be using 330 ohm or 220 ohm on the R304 R310 and R306 replacements. The inital post and walkthrough states 330. Yet futher in the forum the parts list states 220. I have both but wanted to get confirmation from anyone that has already performed this to clear up which ones.
Nevermind its the 330's. Duh must read big bold black print in the middle of the two schematics. :loser:

Sorry about that, I need to clean it up. Either works, but 330 is what I have been using.

I GOT PICS ON MY PROFILE OF ENGIFINEER'S AWESOME WORK. CHECK IT OUT! GOT MINE DONE IN BLUE. LOOKS GREAT!

Glad you like em :) Thanks for the props and let me know if there is anything else I can do!

So, im about to do my console and my friends console, mine in white and his in blue.

After reading all of these pages, i can just use the "jumper" technique for the white LEDs, but have to replace some of the resistors with the Blue LEDs?

Jumper technique is fine for White...but if you are supremely anal you will still notice a small difference. people getting into the car won't know, but you might.

Ok have completed the mod. All Leds on left side and clock are great!, also the last two on the right side are fine as well. Yet D311 & D312 are not working. I had them working upon orginal completion but now they aren't. Tried changing LED's and also verified all soldering points. Any sugguestions? I will post a pic of the right side tonight if this helps.

well i have mine partially done. the LEDs for the tach aren't lighting up for some reason so i have to re open that and find out whats going on with that. I also notice that it seems the right 3rd portion of the center console screen isn't lighting up so i have to check into that as well.

Make sure you have the jumpers and resistors attached to the correct LEDs JQ. It sounds to me like you forgot the wire jumper between the right side of the 2nd and 3rd LED down on the right side. This provides the ground for the top two LEDs on the right since cutting that trace disconnects those two. Check to make sure you added that jumper.

Make sure you have the jumpers and resistors attached to the correct LEDs JQ. It sounds to me like you forgot the wire jumper between the right side of the 2nd and 3rd LED down on the right side. This provides the ground for the top two LEDs on the right since cutting that trace disconnects those two. Check to make sure you added that jumper.
I made sure that I did that orginally. At first they where weak, then out, now they are back to weak. I have checked all solding on the right side includeing the 330 resister. I am confusted. Here is a pic. any other sugguestions? errr!
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j36/jqwhite/0418061830.jpg

It is hard to tell by the pic, but I think there may be two issues. The first wont cause them not to work, but should be changed so everything matches. The resistor you have connected to D313 (the one bent at a 90 degree angle and soldered to the longer resistor lead) appears to be a 330 Ohm. This should be a 680 Ohm. The only 330s are the ones that replace the three surface mount resistors you have to swap out. The other three are 680's.

Now again, it is hard to see from there , but it looks like you have the resistor that is connected to D316 attached on the upper lead of the resistor at the top of the picture (this should be a 330 ohm, the one you swapped for the surface mount). This should be attached to the bottom leg of that resistor looking at it from the viewpoint of the picture. A couple more things to check out.

Now again, it is hard to see from there , but it looks like you have the resistor that is connected to D316 attached on the upper lead of the resistor at the top of the picture (this should be a 330 ohm, the one you swapped for the surface mount). This should be attached to the bottom leg of that resistor looking at it from the viewpoint of the picture. A couple more things to check out.

Nice eye's!!! I didn't even notice that I was connected to the wrong side of the 330. By simply moving the 680 lead to the side NOT going to D311, all is FIXED!!! Bright blue!
Now I have to go and cut the the housing so it fits.
THANKS!!
:bow: :bow: :bow:

No problem, enjoy!

I had a quick question, i was looking around online for a place to be able to buy these resistors, was able to find 2 site but each one wanted a mini buy of like 300. Has anyone found a site that has the resistos with a normal buying of like 6 (i want a few spares incase)? Or any tips as to where i can find, if not i will try to hit up radio shack this week. Thanks

digikey.com

I had a quick question, i was looking around online for a place to be able to buy these resistors, was able to find 2 site but each one wanted a mini buy of like 300. Has anyone found a site that has the resistos with a normal buying of like 6 (i want a few spares incase)? Or any tips as to where i can find, if not i will try to hit up radio shack this week. Thanks
I just went to the local Radio Shack and found all the resistors needed to complete the mod at 1/8 and hook-up wire. This cost all of about 7 to 8 dollars. That is where I would start.

thats hot man, you are the ____! I am moving into a new place, and i am getting married next month, so one day engifineer, one day i will send my gauges off to you! LOL when you got married didja ever feel like you were never goin to be able to buy another car part ever again.....lol

i go through that on a daily basis with just about everything! so you better get used to it. unless you wife is cool! im sure you'll have no probs.

yeah shes cool, but for now i am on a tight budget...i gotta get cable and a nice tv or i might go crazy....are you in Pensacola? I just went there staurday night...

Engifineer, is it possible to use wrapping wire for this mod to avoid having to shave down any buttons?

what website can i order the led's from

alot of info on this. Try reading through this forum or using the search.
Here (http://www.scionlife.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=116026&highlight=)
Is the forum I posted on the site to buy along with type and also walktrought on the install.
GoodLuck!

Did this mod today... I used fine wrapping wire, but it doesn't spare you anything :) The resistors are still too big for the button housings to fit over, so you still need to cut. But like engifineer said, it's really soft plastic and easy to do (and more importantly, the cutting part is hard to screw up lol)

My all-white console looks terrific now! Another happy customer.

hmm. i just kinda stuff it in... i don't really cut the plastic much.. :P hmm... ehh.. it works.. :P

I guess it depends on the resistors you get. enginfineer gets the good SMT ones. Ridiculous Shack doesn't have those, so they're kinda big.

I suppose you COULD wire the resistors so they're out of the button housings' way, but that'd just increase your trace length. But yeah, ehh, it works.

I may start doing these locally here in NJ or as mail-swaps. I found a junkyard that had 2 sets of HVAC control units and he gave 'em to me for $75 each - both intact.

I suppose I could do the work and cross ship them to people willing to pay to have the work done.

Of course if I did that, i'd have to toss engifineer a percentage of each sale :) It'd only be fair. We wouldn't have this fix if it wasn't for him.

For those of you who wanted full size front and back shots, here you go:

I circled R306 on the back since it drove me batty trying trying to find it lol

Click images for full size ones.

http://www.weckstrom.com/scion/hvacpcbfrontthumb.jpg (http://www.weckstrom.com/scion/hvacpcbfront.jpg)

http://www.weckstrom.com/scion/hvacpcbbackthumb.jpg (http://www.weckstrom.com/scion/hvacpcbback.jpg)

^^ :shock: hmm whoa! big resistors!!

hmm.. yeah.. radio shack sucks.... at least we have a Fry's Electronics over here in Cali... i found me some SMD resistors (330 ohm) that directly replace the small ones.. and then 1/4W that works fine... and some 1/8W here and there to save room..

maybe search around for a computer parts type store??

Yeah, I know, it was all I could find in my area at the time. There's really no good places for that kind of stuff around here. You gotta pretty much go online. But hey, they work... and if I get enough people in my area interested in getting this done, I'll just make a big order somewhere online.

^^ yeah... as long as they work... it's good :)

Do red leds require resistors to be bright?

^^ no.

why is it that red doesnt?

^^ lower forward voltage.

yep, red has the same forward voltage drop as amber does.. or very close to it.

Does anyone have any pictures of the soft plastic that will need to be cut out in order to make room for the resistors? I should be getting my HVAC back from engifineer tomorrow, and I can't wait to have AC again! Thanks again Dave..... but yeah if someone happens to have a picture of the back of the button housing that'd be most helpful.....

I haven't had to cut anything for the fix. Just position everything to fit

I insulate all my wires and use a little larger wires than some (the same gauge ans the resistor leads. There is no way to run them without them running underneath the button surrounds. So even if you use small wire, your board is pinching them between the button surrounds and the back of the plastic. Not terrible on the wires if you dont tighten too much, but your board will permanently be slightly warped when you tighten the screws. I could leave it that way, but I dont want stress cracks in the board or even worse, the LCD cracking due to the board not sitting flat (flex the board ever so slightly and you will see the LCD move). It takes me about 3 - 5 minutes to cut small notches for the wire, and makes everything sit flush like factory. It is easy to see where you will need to cut when you look at the faceplate and the wires and resistors I add. Like I said, the wires have to run from one LED to the next, so it is impossible for them not to run under the surrounds that divide each.

On another note, I am grabbing some parts and doing something completely different. Look for me to offer another way of doing this. A new kit that I will offer that will eliminate all of the wires and resistors you see on the front of the board. I will test this week and let people know more. The work is nearly the same, but is MUCH cleaner in the end and eliminates the need for doing it much different for the 07 board.

that is very good info thanks man

No problem. I know that people have been doing them without cutting and having no issues. Not trying to step on any toes. I just prefer to user a thick insulation on everything and do the cutting so it all sits nice and flat.

On the other part, the design I spoke of comes from another project I am working on that ties into the HVAC. Hopefully I will have at least a rough design in my car and tested this week and I will post more info on it. I figured that trying to clean up the other mod would be a nice addition to it since I will already be in there messing around :P.

Nice, thanks for the reply!! Now to cut out the soft plastic, is there anything you'd recommend? Is it just a matter of getting an exacto blade?

LOL- on a side note I almost died in the rain tonight.... you never know how handy that defort button is until you're windshield is completely fog over.....sweet lord... but I made it. And its still worth to have the piece of mind knowing I had the best of the best do this little mod for me!

Be careful! Hate to see you have an accident!

I use an exacto type knife. It is VERY soft plastic and very easy to cut. I will try to see if I have any pics of one cut out. But it is pretty easy to see where. I just notch out where all the wires run.

On the UPS tracking, I see that they did not give me the other part of the label, which is why I only have the ship ID. But if it runs late I can always go up and talk to them using that number. Let me know when it is there and if you need any more help!

Cool thanks engifineer. Im not worried about it, I'm sure it will come tomorrow. You always do a great job of communicating and always reply back super quick. You seem as solid a guy as anyone else I've found on here, if not better...... so I'm definitely not sweating it. I'll pick up a new exacto on my lunch break and I'll be good to go once I get home. I'll try and post pictures once I've got it back in place..... I know many people already have, but it can't hurt to put up some fresh ones.....

Hey Engifineer, just pm'ed you! Was psyched to get my HVAC today, but I'm having a few technical difficulties. Please hit me back when you've got the chance, I'm at a loss.

hmmm.. watching dave.. :P

Pmd back. Strange issue really and not sure what is going on. Just for the record, overnight shipping, repair and a refund will be in order if anything is wrong. So no worries in the case something is wrong :)

Appears by the picture he sent me that the two connections on top of the board are broken loose. They are small connections, so possibly done when trying to trim and fit the face plate on. But, I should have specified clearly to include that part when it was sent to me, so I take full responsibility.

Full refund plus money for overnight shipping is being sent right now. I would just send him another one, but I dont have the LC-LED leds to do it, and the ones I use are a slight bit darker blue, so I dont want it being off from the gauges.

In either case, I dont feel someone should have to pay if something comes back damaged. He is a good guy and I feel bad that he has to go a few more days without his stuff!

^^^ I had a guy send me his HVAC board (without the case) and the screen cracked during shipping. So I always ask for the entire HVAC unit.

^^ I normally do as well. I just wasnt clear on it when I set this one up. But things happen. The key is how we handle things when they do. Too many other types of companies out there are screwing people when thier products have issues, so I hope at least in this area we can all provide some good, solidly backed services, which I think is the case for the most part.

Absolutely, I'm glad to see how well you take care of your customers (I pretty much figured you to be an honorable guy seeing how popular you are here).

^^^ I had a guy send me his HVAC board (without the case) and the screen cracked during shipping. So I always ask for the entire HVAC unit.

Speaking of which, are you busy in two weeks? :wink:

ETA: I just got your e-mail. Good lookin' out.

I have also heard nothing but good on your end as well. Garage1217 and squallheart I would also vouch for. It is nice that people have some good choices in this area.. and also nice that there are more than one of us.. cause there is definitely enough business to go around in the led swap area! Like I said, anyone can make a mistake, it is how that mistake is corrected that makes the deal right. That goes for any type of service or product. Too bad more dealerships dont feel the same :P

thank you dave :)

it's wonderful too to be able to provide services.. i just love helping people out as much as i can.

even at my own expense sometimes.. :?

anyway... i'm still curious on this supposed new revision... :P

what crazy ideas you got up there in your head engineer man? :roll:

Just to chime in, Dave is a stellar guy, he has been super helpful in every sense. I can't say enough good things about him. I overnighted him the board yesterday at lunch, and he is taking care of me. Hopefully he gets it today, and I'll be good to go. But again, anytime Ive had a question Dave gets back to me in at the drop of a hat...... Would certainly recommend to anyone interested in having this done. (I feel like I'm leaving an ebay review....lol)

Just an update to everyone. I already pmd you as well Ryan. And thanks for all of the good words by the way!

His HVAC is fixed. I at some point nicked one of the small traces. Just enough that I could push on it and make the problem go away, so it was just barely cut, probably why I did not see the problem when I first did it. The cut and trace were small enough that I had to use a magnifying glass to see the knick in it. That trace is the dimmer control signal for the button leds. It controls a transistor which in turn controls the current through those leds. With it cut, it looks like the dimmer is all the way down. I will try to post a pic of where it is on the board, but you wont be able to tell much cause of the size. If you are looking at the board, it is the closest trace in the bunch of tiny traces under the bottom right LED (the one for the outside temp button). If you cut this one, the button leds will act like the dimmer is all the way down all the time. Just something to look out for :P

Just checking in, got my hvac back yesterday- and all problems were solved. I can't wait to see it in the evening just cause it hard to tell if the buttons glow during the day (unless you cup your hands over them) But, I'm so glad to have this all taken care of, Dave thanks again for standing behind your work!! You're a good guy and I'd definitely do business with you anytime.

go dave!! :clap:

Cool, glad to see they got it there and it looks good! It kinda sucks to do it in the daytime because you cant really see the results until it gets dark :P

And thanks for being so patient. I know it is a pain in the arse to have to send something back and wait for the fix.

Enjoy!

Hi guys!
I'm trying to swap all leds to white color and I'm almost done except one problem.
It's not a center console's problem. It's coming from gauge cluster.
I just brought PCB to my car after I finish swapping leds and checked white lights and it seemed like everything was OK but when I turn off beam light all white leds were blinking with very dark lights. Fortunately two leds for LCD worked properly and other leds also worked when I turn on beam light. But if I turn if off all gauge leds were blinking...
What's the problem?? anyone experienced similar problem? and how did you resolve it???
Please help meeee!!!

Did you check the dimmer?

hey... come by stevens creek scion tomorrow between 12pm-5pm.. i'll be there.

well... I usually come back home after 6.. but thanks!

What do I have to check the dimmer? Pleeaseee explain me the detail..... ^^

By the way I got same problem with window s/w. there are three leds and only one of them is blinking... the difference with gauge leds is the light of s/w is very bright. and it's blinking when it is turned on. but the gauge leds are blinking when those must be off..

the dimmer on the gauges that controls the brightness of the lights. It's the knob on the left. I sometimes run into that "problem", and just turn up the brightness.

For the windows, that just flashes because you need to reset the auto function of the window. Hold down the window button to roll the window down. once it's completely down, release the button, and pull it up to roll the window up. Once it is fully up, release the button, and it should stop flashing, and the windows should function automatically (if not, try it again).

^^ yeah what he said.. if anything you can still pm me and i can help you out thursday or friday.

Thanks guys... but still it's same...
I found some a little bad connection of leds and re-soldered, and then I brought circuit board to car and still same..
The problem is when I brought circuit board of gauge to car and if I turn on car and beam on, all leds work fine.. but if I turn beam light off, all leds were flashing!..
As I know two leds on lcd have to be on and the others must be off, right?
But now two leds on lcd were still bright, which is good, and flashing with very fast interval. and all the other white leds were flasing too with dark light.
so I adjusted dimmer up and down. if I turn the dimmer up, all leds(not lcd leds) were flashing and then I turned it down about half way, then the flashing was stopped but still all leds were on. Oviously I turned off the beam light at that time, which means all leds must be off.
Anyway when I turned dimmer down all the way to the end, then all leds including lcd's were off. It means dimmer works properly doesn't it?
What makes this problem???????

i dunno if you fried anything.... but i was available pretty much all day (fri).... lemme look at it?

holly crap!!
I actually bought used gauge cluster from ebay last week cause I thought I could screw up mine after swapping leds.
So today I swapped all leds again on the used one and brought it to my car.. guess what!!!
It was same... flashing all leds if I turn on the car. if I turn on the beam, alll leds work fine.. i don't think I fried anything on the circuit board twice... I might have to meet SquallLHeart soon.... What should I doooo...........??

whoa.. huh?!

okay... that's just WEIRD.... i dunno what's going on and if anything is normal and uh... i dunno if you just thought it wasn't.. uhm.... hmm...

yea.... crap.. next friday i take off for the weekend.... would have to be tues or thurs afternoon between 12pm and 5pm...

no, I am not asking what impedance to use. I am asking if it is possible to use ceramic resistors, the ones you get a radioshack with axial leads on the front of the board. I know you used it on the back of the board, but the SMD resistors are used on the front. I am doing this mod this weekend (while my wife is out of town) and need to know if I can hit up the 'shack and be ok!

no, I am not asking what impedance to use. I am asking if it is possible to use ceramic resistors, the ones you get a radioshack with axial leads on the front of the board. I know you used it on the back of the board, but the SMD resistors are used on the front. I am doing this mod this weekend (while my wife is out of town) and need to know if I can hit up the 'shack and be ok!

yep, you'll be ok. But you'll have to cut up the plastic shrouds that surround the LED's after re-assembly... Ridiculous Shack only has enormous 1/2 or 1/4 watt resistors last I was there.

awesome. thanks alot. I already did the gauge switch and HU switch. This weekend I will finish up the HVAC, steering wheel controls, and door switched.

** sorry about the double post

Just a little note:

I've done 2 HVAC boards now, one with engifineer's kit and one without. I can't explain how much easier it was having all the pre-bent wires, I didn't even have to think about what I was doing. If you are thinking about changing the LED's on the HVAC, do yourself a favor and talk to engifineer first. It'll pay for itself in time saved (not to mention frustration avoided)

Are the prebent wires just hook-up wires?

engifineer's kit contained all the wires and resistors needed to modify the circuit. The resistors were all the right values and perfectly bent to fit. I was also able to pick up some LED's from him as well.

No offense but how hard is it to bend a wire ? I dont know about u, but i use the really small wrapping wire at radio shack and you dont even have to bend those at all

uhh... take wire... bend...?

resistors can be bought anywhere too...

bump because people are.... yea....

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e104/phipquach/hvac-1.jpg

so, squall said i was missing a trace... what trace am i missing? i've looked at all the intructions and pictures... don't know what trace.

I made the kits more as a response to those asking for something along those lines. I like using a little stiffer wire and running beneath the light surrounds to make it sturdy and keep everthing from vibrating around as much. I also send illustrated instructions with marked up pictures to make it a little easier. The idea for most that buy them is that they dont really have to worry about soldering to the wrong points by mistake as much. With everything cut to length and bent, you just have to cut the traces and solder everything in place. It is just less to worry about for those doing thier first electronics mod like this... and easier for those of us doing them over and over :P

But, this morning I built up a new kit, that works on all models and requires no cutting of traces and has much less work involved for installation. It is on my car and will be tested for a short while to make sure everything is ok. I am also adding some failure protection to it to reduce problems if something is not connected properly, parts fail or short for one reason or another, etc. As always, I dont want to sell anything that I havent finished testing thoroughly on my car first. So I will update soon :D

so, squall said i was missing a trace... what trace am i missing? i've looked at all the intructions and pictures... don't know what trace.
between D310 and D316

and go dave.. waiting for an update.. :)

oh now i see, so i just cut it. alrighty thennnnn

Look like you miss R307 too, take that resistor out and short that connection

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e104/phipquach/hvac-1.jpg

so, squall said i was missing a trace... what trace am i missing? i've looked at all the intructions and pictures... don't know what trace.

Yep, short R307, cut the trace coming into the left side of D316 and you should be in business

ohh.. totally overlooked that.... eyah.. ^^ what they said..

Testing looks great so far on my car. If all looks well through the weekend, I will do more of a stress test and order the final components to make them (the no cutting HVAC kit). I will then be able to start offering them. The other nice thing about it is that it build the foundation for another mod someone brought up for the lighting, so hopefully I can test that at the same time. I will update this weekend.

How much would one of these new kits, along with all the LEDs needed for the guages + hvac, run for?

anyone got pics of how the 07 is supposed to be done?

ahh... here ya go man.

http://www.scionlife.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=132189

make sure and read the update on the alternate solder point... it's a better spot.

:bow:

I am also interested in the new kit that includes all the instructions, LEDs and premade wires needed for the guages and HAVC. I prefer ALL BLUE except for emergency, seatbelt, battery, maintenance and other similar led.

engifineer could you PLEASE PM me a $$$ and let me know if you could make it happen. :pray:

I want to do mines so bad but i'm scared of f***n' something up :nails: and won't that void your warranty?????? Really not sure but after 60,000 i might be brave enough to do it lol

Nothing will void you warranty. They can only refuse service if they can prove that your mod caused it.

I have some kits ready to go (with the new mod), but I am backed up for a week or so. I have already promised some to people. I got all my parts, and leds here the other day and everything is already spoken for. Sorry to those who have been waiting for replies and info, I will have info for you today and tomorrow (I only have about 50 messages and emails to reply to :P ). I just dont take any money until stuff is ready to ship, which is why I made you wait :P I will get the kits I have ready and get more parts in asap for more.

Let us know when you're ready to ship.

Ok, finally have some together partially and sent the first kit out last night. I did the first mod other than my own last thursday. Now I know you all will hate me.... :P, but I am travelling to visit family for the holidays, but can resume on tuesday of next week with everything. All work purchased is complete and shipped, so those that are waiting on stuff be ensured it is on the way already, so you wont be left hangning :D

Here is a pic of a kit installed. Not the best pic, but gives the idea of the install process:

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y111/engifineer/HVAC2_0102.jpg

interesting
:ponder:

:P

:P I wish it was prettier wiring wise, but running everything that way eliminates the cutting, running wire under the plastic surrounds for the leds (other than the LCD, which has a small gap under the end anyway), etc. Hopefully next week I will be adding something else to that board for another mod as well.

For now, I am finishing up at work and heading on a 9.5 hour drive in a few hours, so Happy Thanksgiving to everyone.